Wines from Tuscany

40 years Brunello di Montalcino by Casanova di Neri: Intense bouquet of sour cherry with nuances of chocolate, spices, liquorice and herbs. Energetic and highly vital on the palate. Wonderfully layered and seamlessly integrated dark fruit flavours open up with each sip, paired with a subtle vein of salt. Its tannins are like velvet and silk, the long, sweeping finish reveals that Sangiovese excellence we love so much at Casanova di Neri! SUPERIORE.DE

A lake next to the vineyard – that's not a metaphor, it's geography. Vigna del Lago is situated in the north-west of Montalcino, at an altitude of 280 metres, and the small lake that gives the vineyard its name moderates the otherwise continental climate of this exposure: harsh winters, very hot summers, and marked day-night temperature fluctuations. The soil is clay – heavy, water-retentive and cool. A combination that forces the Sangiovese Grosso to put down deep roots, ripen slowly and develop elegance rather than bulk. The vine density here is the highest in the entire Val-di-Suga portfolio: 7,500 vines per hectare – a figure reminiscent of Burgundy’s planting densities. Double spur cordon training, careful foliage management, yield reduction through thinning. Hand-harvesting into crates takes place exclusively in the early hours of the morning. In the cellar: fermentation for eight to twelve days, followed by maceration for a further two to three weeks. Ageing in 40-hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels for 24 months, then in concrete, then in bottle. No barriques, no influence from wood – pure terroir. 2021 was a fortunate vintage for Vigna del Lago. The late frost in April reduced the harvest – and concentrated the very best. No extreme summer, no stress.

After gentle distillation in small copper stills, the grappa matures for at least three years in used Ornellaia barrels (twice as long as prescribed) before being blended with grappas from older stocks to give it an extra measure of depth and character. With soft aromas, silky texture and golden colour, Eligo dell'Ornellaia Grappa Riserva is of noble style and unique provenance. An enveloping, warm bouquet of ripe grapes and toasted oak. Very pleasant and full on the palate with a long, harmonious aftertaste. SUPERIORE.DE

Dark and powerful in the glass with full-bodied flavours of black cherry and blackberry. Spices, leather and balsamic herbs are evident in the background. Medium to full-bodied with very fine tannins that are polished and attractive and melt into the wine. What beautiful purity and finesse! SUPERIORE.DE

Historically, the vineyards of Castello di Fonterutoli are situated in the territories of three neighbouring municipalities within the Chianti Classico region: Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti. With the 2017 vintage, the Mazzei family vinified all three major vineyards separately as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione for the first time, in order to do justice to the diversity of the terroir: Castello di Fonterutoli, Vicoregio 36 and Badiòla.

In 1977, at a time when the term "terroir" was virtually unknown in Montalcino and little attention was paid to the concept of zoning, Caparzo produced the first vintage of this wine. Its name derives from the farm where the farm labourers who worked for the owners of the nearby Palazzo Montosoli once lived. With "La Casa", Caparzo was once again a pioneer: one of the first single-vineyard Brunellos in the entire appellation, from one of Montalcino's most privileged vineyards. And this wine marks a second milestone: Caparzo was among the first wineries to introduce barrique barrels to Montalcino, thereby creating a wine of a gentle, elegant character. The five-hectare vineyard is situated on Montosoli hill, 275 metres above sea level, with a south-southeast-facing aspect. Montosoli is not a large hill, but its slightly greater altitude protects it from both mist and late frosts – a decisive advantage in this northern sector of the appellation, which has cooler average temperatures than other areas. The soil is schist-clay, known locally as "galestro", and is well-drained; the site enjoys an exceptional amount of sunshine.

Concerto was born in 1981, a time when Italian viticulture was undergoing dynamic change. The potential that had hitherto gone untapped was recognised, and new viticultural practices were introduced, with successful experiments carried out for the first time with international grape varieties. It was Marchesa Carla Mazzei who, in 1981, after the first tasting of just fifteen barriques, spontaneously chose the name Concerto – a symphony had unfolded in her glass. As one of the first ten Super Tuscans, this wine made history and revolutionised the understanding of Tuscan wine. The Sangiovese comes from the Scassi vineyard in the western part of Fonterutoli, surrounded by oak forests at an altitude of 350 metres, and is sourced from mass selections in an experimental vineyard dating back to the 1930s. And the small proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon has, over four decades, developed a character entirely of its own here, far removed from the international style it takes on elsewhere. The 18-month ageing in French barriques subsequently lends the wine its refined structure, without overshadowing its original elegance.

Historically, the vineyards of Castello di Fonterutoli are situated in the territories of three neighbouring municipalities within the Chianti Classico region: Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti. With the 2017 vintage, the Mazzei family vinified all three major vineyards separately as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione for the first time, in order to reflect the diversity of the terroir: Castello di Fonterutoli, Vicoregio 36 and Badiòla.

Lodovico Lisini died in 1950, leaving the estate to his daughter Elina. At a time when the mezzadria system was coming to an end and agriculture was falling into disuse, Elina took a different approach: she invested, planted new vineyards and transformed the family home into a proper winery. In 1967, she was one of the 24 founders of the Brunello Consortium. She served as its president for many years. Until her death in 2009, it was the quiet, tenacious Elina Lisini who built the reputation of this estate – and of a wine that Giulio Gambelli, Italy's most legendary wine taster, helped to shape. The estate is situated in southern Montalcino between Sant'Angelo in Colle and Castelnuovo dell'Abate, on tuff-rich soil of Eocene origin, 300 to 350 metres above sea level and characterised by the warm Maremma breezes. 2021 was a year of extraordinary harmony: a warm, balanced summer, cool nights lasting well into September, consistent ripening and precise tannins.

The forest literally begins at the vineyard fence: the "Vinea nel Bosco" plot, planted in 2001, lies at an altitude of around 530 metres on the edge of a deciduous forest, which brings mist and coolness in the mornings, whilst the afternoon sun provides sufficient warmth as it filters through the treetops. The soil, composed of Alberese, limestone and clay marl, yields little but what it does produce is highly concentrated. Spontaneous fermentation of the Sangiovese grapes begins in stainless steel, before the young wine matures for 26 months in large, 20-hectolitre wooden casks and is then left to rest in the bottle for at least another year. With an alcohol content of 14.5 per cent, it is full-bodied without feeling heavy – the 2020 vintage yielded a total of 2,412 bottles and 108 magnums.

Vinea Vecchia truly lives up to its name: the vineyard plot between Panzano and Montefioralle was planted in 1981, back in the days when Chianti was still produced using old, unselected Sangiovese clonal selections. With the 2020 vintage, it is being given its own label for the first time, as its character has become too distinctive to be part of any blend. At an altitude of 500 to 540 metres, Alberese rock alternates with schistose clay-marl – a soil that demands little yield from the old vines, but all the more concentration in return. Following spontaneous fermentation, the Sangiovese matures for 26 months in ten-hectolitre wooden casks, large enough to allow the fruit and terroir to express themselves fully. A total of 2,572 bottles and 46 magnums were produced, each numbered by hand.

Many people today forget what Petresco historically represents: Luca Orsini's response to the Super Tuscan craze of the 1990s. Whilst half of Panzano was ageing Cabernet and Merlot in new French Allier oak to please American critics, Orsini remained steadfast. He created a pure Sangiovese, deliberately classifying it as an IGT to free himself from rigid doctrines, and proved to the world that Panzano needs no Bordeaux-style crutches. In the exceptional 2021 vintage, this single-varietal Sangiovese achieves a stature that can, without hesitation, be ranked amongst the great Tuscan terroir monuments.

The grapes for this Supertuscan come from the San Giovanni vineyard near San Giovanni a Cerreto. In the church next to the vineyard there is a painting by Rutilo Manetti depicting St John the Baptist (San Giovanni). Deep ruby red, youthful, rich, dark fruit, berry and cassis flavours meld with French oak. On the palate with deep, subtle fruit flavours and an excellent balance of fruit and tannin, plus some smoke, liquorice and tar. A rich but not too heavy red with excellent structure and great ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Giovanni Manetti's Vin Santo del Chianti Classico consists of 50% Malvasia and 50% Sangiovese and was aged for 84 months in small oak barrels. The wine is absolutely stunning - from start to finish - and there are just 1,000 bottles of it.

Some vintages need no introduction. 2019 is one of them. Mild winter, soils well watered. Cool spring, vegetation two weeks behind the calendar – a blessing in disguise. Then a summer with moderate warmth around 25 degrees, without the scorching extremes that lignify tannins and burn fruit. And a September that brought everything together: slowly, evenly, precisely. Montalcino breathed a sigh of relief. Roberto Giannelli and Paolo Caciorgna had it easy – and difficult at the same time. Easy, because the raw material was impeccable. Difficult because you have to make a wine of the century from a vintage of the century. The answer: no over-commitment. Steel, concrete, large barrels. Patience instead of intervention and respect instead of actionism.

Lodovico Antinori made history with Ornellaia and Masseto, and put the Alta Maremma on the world map with Biserno. He is now writing the latest chapter of his story together with his daughter Sophia: Tenuta del Nicchio in Bibbona, situated between Bolgheri and the Tyrrhenian Sea. Le 2 Ville takes its name from a historic estate belonging to the Gherardesca family, which borders directly on the vineyard – a tribute to the "Signori della Maremma", whose lands have shaped these coastal hills for a millennium. The wine itself is a celebration of duality: Merlot and Cabernet Franc form the international foundation, yet around 20% Ciliegiolo adds a distinctly Tuscan touch. This ancient, almost forgotten variety brings a vibrant fruitiness and that playful lightness that charmingly counterbalances the Bordeaux heritage.

It is no exaggeration to describe Riecines Chianti Classico as an archetype of the Gaiole terroir: In the glass, it is light in colour with notes of wild berries, blackberries and white pepper. These slightly wilder aromas are very characteristic of Gaiole in Chianti, particularly of this corner of the sub-zone near the village after which it is named. This cool site produces a crisp and elegant Sangiovese with tension and bite, peppery tannins, and notes of small black fruits that linger through to a respectable finish. For years, Riecine has been producing one of the most subtle Chianti Classicos – a magnificent wine. SUPERIORE.DE

The year 2020 carries a heavy burden in our memories. Pandemic, silence, state of emergency. The vines didn't care. They grew – under a sun that knew no mercy in July and August. Up to 40 degrees in Tuscany. Water reserves scarce. The consortium's message: "annata versatile", a changeable vintage. What sounds diplomatic meant that the differences between the estates were greater in 2020 than ever before. San Filippo was one of the beneficiaries. The north-east exposure at 260 to 280 metres, the clayey-limestone subsoil with slate components – this terroir does not lose its freshness when others have long since lost it. Organic cultivation since 2013: soils that breathe, buffer. Vines that know stress, but don't break from it.

Historically, the vineyards of Castello di Fonterutoli are located in the areas of three neighbouring municipalities of Chianti Classico: Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti. With the 2017 vintage, the Mazzei family vinified all three large vineyards separately as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione for the first time in order to recognise the diversity of the terroir: Castello di Fonterutoli, Vicoregio 36 and Badiòla.

The fruit for this Brunello comes from a 14.4 hectare south-facing vineyard with loamy soils and lots of boulders. Complex, dark and earthy bouquet of ripe black cherries, enriched with notes of dried flowers, spices, crushed stones and a hint of animal musk. The palate reveals silky textures and pure Sangiovese fruit, underpinned by earthy tones supported by a network of minerals and tannins. The mouthfeel is always lean, tangy and soft, although you can feel the wine's full body and great appeal at all times. The final is polished and refined and lasts for several minutes. SUPERIORE.DE

There are wines that tell stories even before you've tasted them. This is one of them. Its name – the Hill of the Magpies – refers to that special vineyard where these elegant birds build their nests and from where the view sweeps unobstructed across the Tyrrhenian Sea. Here, where the salty Mediterranean breeze meets volcanic soil, one of Tuscany's most innovative white wines has been produced for more than two decades. It embodies a refreshing spirit which, to quote: "is as delicate as a breeze, yet at the same time lush and self-assured". This poetic description hits the nail on the head: Poggio alle Gazze is Ornellaia's answer to the question of what a white wine from Bolgheri might be like if it possessed the elegance and depth of the great reds. Six months' ageing on the fine lees with regular bâtonnage, followed by the assembly of the final blend and a further 12 months' ageing in the bottle, complete this masterpiece of white wine artistry.

Guidalberto bears the name of a man who shaped the Bolgheri landscape forever in the early 19th century: Guidalberto della Gherardesca, the visionary agricultural pioneer who created the famous cypress avenue – the Viale dei Cipressi – was created. What was initially intended as a practical demarcation between different areas of cultivation became the iconic silhouette of an entire region. 2023 marks a turning point for this exceptional wine. For the first time, Tenuta San Guido is positioning its Guidalberto separately from the legendary Sassicaia – a deliberate move to demonstrate that this is not a "second wine", but an independent interpretation of the Bolgheri terroir. As Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta puts it: "You can't compare them. They are completely different worlds." The 2023 vintage is a synthesis of 55 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 45 per cent Merlot. While the Cabernet Sauvignon provides structure and depth, the Merlot brings the silky texture and accessible sweetness that makes Guidalberto so distinctive. Fifteen months in French and American barriques give the wine its characteristic balance between strength and elegance.

There are wines that not only tell of earth, climate and grapes - they also tell of light and space. Vistamare is undoubtedly one of these rare creatures. Named after the expansive view that Bolgheri offers as far as the sea on a clear day, this wine is a Mediterranean promise, realised with the care and elegance with which Angelo Gaja has been setting standards for decades - only this time not in Piedmont, but on the Tuscan coast.

In 1978, the first bottle of Brunello from Casanova di Neri found its way onto the market – then still called "Vino Rosso dai Vigneti di Brunello", five years after the first harvest. Giovanni Neri had found his dream and his son Giacomo began to realise it. The white label was there from the very beginning – and still is today. The Brunello White Label comes from specially designated vineyards around Podere Fiesole to the east of Montalcino – the same vineyards from which the estate has been making its Brunello for over four decades. After a cool, slow spring, 2021 brought a balancing, dry summer and even ripening into September.