Wine

In May, when the iris – known as "giaggiolo" in Tuscan – bathes the vineyards of Lamole in a violet glow, the soul of this wine is revealed. The name Maggiolo was born from the fusion of 'flower' and 'month': a Chianti Classico that captures the sunny generosity of the high-altitude vineyards, situated between 420 and 655 metres, in liquid form. Unlike the purist Duelame, the Maggiolo relies on a blend of 80% Sangiovese with 10% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Following visual selection of the grapes, they are fermented separately in stainless steel. The Sangiovese matures for 18 months in large oak casks, whilst the international varieties are aged in barriques; a marriage of structure and suppleness.

Chardonnay only arrived in Piedmont in the 19th century – late for a region with such a deep winemaking tradition. But in the municipalities of Fontanile and Castel Boglione, north of Nizza Monferrato, the grape variety found a soil that took it seriously: Marne di Sant'Agata Fossili, an alternation of fossilised marl and sandstone with a good proportion of limestone. The Bertolino family discovered this potential in the 1950s and 60s – at a time when the region's sparkling wine production demanded a Chardonnay of exceptional quality. Today, Tenuta Olim Bauda only produces a few thousand bottles from these vineyards. The grapes are harvest in the first week of September. Gentle pressing, only pre-fermentation must. 36 hours of contact with the fine lees at 5°C with bâtonnage for aromatic extraction, followed by static clarification. Fermentation in large 50-hectolitre wooden vats for around 15 days. Maturation in tonneaux, 10% of which are new, for around one year.

With the 2024 vintage, Tolaini is revamping its Chianti Classico range: the previous Vallenuova Annata has been promoted to Riserva, and this entry-level wine – named after the estate itself – takes its place. The grapes come from the vineyards surrounding the estate in Castelnuovo Berardenga, the southernmost corner of the Chianti Classico region, where silty-clay soils mixed with limestone and stones shape the character of the Sangiovese.

Antonio Bragato, born in Germany but with an absolutely Friulian identity, joined forces 20 years ago with Gianni Maccari, who was Livio Felluga's cellar master for many years and founded his own winery Ronco della Rocca at the beginning of the millennium. An agronomist and Oenologist by training, he is considered one of Friuli's best-trained winegrowing experts. The profound knowledge of his own 12 hectares of vineyards as well as the leased plots and the radical precision in the execution of every work step characterise the clear style and the reliable quality of the wines that Antonio Bragato creates there together with him.

The name says it all: the vineyard is located on an elongated, plateau-like ridge in the historic Classico region of the Castelli di Jesi – a ridge reminiscent of a podium. It is therefore no coincidence that Garofoli harvests its best Verdicchio cuvée right here. 100% Verdicchio from the vineyard that the estate has cultivated as its flagship for decades – and with which Carlo Garofoli was one of the first to prove that Verdicchio can and should age. The vinification remains true to the wine: steel, precision, long ageing on the lees, which gives the podium the fullness and texture that clearly distinguishes it from the fresh entry-level wine. No wood, no distractions – just Verdicchio in its most concentrated form.

The Goldmuskateller (moscato giallo) is one of South Tyrol's aromatic rarities. At Tiefenbrunner, it thrives at altitudes between 220 and 650 metres, with the best lots coming from the Penon, Hofstatt and Rain vineyards: 400 to 650 metres high, on calcareous dolomite soils that give the wine its fine mineral structure. Vinification takes place exclusively in concrete tanks – a deliberate decision to preserve the varietal flavours unadulterated.

Rivus: the river. The Adige flows through the Unterland from Neumarkt to Auer, that welcoming region of southern South Tyrol where Lagrein thrives on the flat valley slopes like almost nowhere else. It is here that Pfitscher sources the grapes for her more approachable Lagrein – from vineyards at 300 metres, partly from vines that have stood here for a hundred years. Fermentation takes place in concrete vats with continuous stirring of the cap, followed by 10 to 12 months in oak and concrete vats. An approachable Lagrein for drinking now and for every day.

This masterful Vernaccia matures for 4 years in small Caratello barrels, whose natural shrinkage is never topped up so that the yeast flora, which is very characteristic of this Vernaccia, forms on the surface and not only produces the characteristic flavours, but also gives it its name.

Tenuta San Leonardo is a name synonymous with red wine. For generations, the Guerrieri Gonzaga family in Avio, in southern Trentino, has been producing a Bordeaux blend that connoisseurs mention in the same breath as Italy's finest wines. Far fewer people are aware that the estate also produces white wine (and rosé) – and does so with the same precision. Vette di San Leonardo takes its name from the peaks that frame the vineyards. "Vette" – peaks, summits – is the image San Leonardo has chosen for this Sauvignon Blanc: high-altitude, crisp, unmistakable. The grapes come from Roveré della Luna, a village on the border between Trentino and Alto Adige, which ranks among the finest Sauvignon Blanc sites in northern Italy. With the Dolomites as a backdrop, cool nights and a long ripening process on the vine. Hand-harvested in September. Exclusively stainless steel, no oak. Five months sur lie on the fine lees – for texture and depth without any external ageing.

Between the lava flows of Rovittello, a wine is created that reveals the delicate side of the volcano. Erse Rosato, made predominantly from Nerello Cappuccio and a smaller proportion of Nerello Mascalese from the only hectare of vineyards exposed to the north-east at an altitude of 700 metres. Here, where the morning breeze blows up from the Alcantara Valley and the afternoon heat is kept at bay by the ancient sciare, a rosato of exceptional personality develops. The two Nerello varieties are vinified separately with a cold maceration of 12 hours at 12-14°C to gently extract colour and aromas before being combined for alcoholic fermentation and subsequent refinement in stainless steel tanks.

Nero di Lupo is COS’s elegant take on Nero d’Avola – , interpreted as light, fruity and mineral. The vines are rooted in red, calcareous loam soils, interspersed with sandy deposits and layers of silicate that have shaped the character of Vittoria over thousands of years. At an altitude of around 230–300 metres, these soils bring freshness and vibrancy to the wine – a clearly defined reflection of the terroir.

Where the Lombards once built their fortress and Frederick II held court, Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi now cultivates his vines – a descendant of Bettino Ricasoli, who invented the Chianti formula in the 19th century. Monti in Chianti, situated at an altitude of 340 to 510 metres, is considered one of the best vineyards in the entire region. Limestone soils, organic farming and three-phase manual harvesting form the basis for this classic Chianti: 90% Sangiovese, supplemented by Canaiolo from our own selection. Matured for twelve months in Allier oak, bottled unfiltered.

The owner of Selvapiana, Francesco Giuntini, and the owner of the Petrognano winery, Cecilia Galeotti Ottieri, have enjoyed a long friendship. Their small winery on the border between Tuscany and Emilia Romagna is located in the centre of the Pomino DOC, which was first mentioned in a document in 1716 and is one of the first four protected appellations in Tuscany (alongside Rufina Classico, Carmignano and Valdarno Superiore). For some years now, the two have been linked by the "Villa Petrognano" project, under which Selvapiana produces one of the most authentic and best Pomino Rosso wines in the region.

Flaminia Maremmana. The name evokes paths that are older than Rome itself. Century after century, shepherds and their flocks travelled along an ancient branch of the Via Flaminia – the consular road that had linked Rome with the Adriatic since 220 BC – From the green Umbrian hills down into the Maremma, for the transumanza – that seasonal transhumance which shaped life in this landscape right up until the 20th century. Here, where sheep and shepherds once rested, where history is etched into the earth, the vines for this special Montefalco Rosso now grow. First produced in 2007, it embodies the soul of this historic terroir. The cuvée, comprising seventy% Sangiovese, fifteen% Sagrantino and fifteen% Canaiolo, thrives on south-east-facing limestone-loam soils.

Erse Etna Rosso has a lively and spicy bouquet of sour cherries, dried roses, cloves and a hint of fresh mint. Round and juicy on the palate, yet pure, with mineral red berries that saturate, while the lively acidity retains a fantastic freshness. A subtle coating of fine tannins and a saline note define the final as it tapers gently and grippingly under a hint of red flowers. Wonderful value. SUPERIORE.DE

An Aglianico from the south of Apulia – unusual in its origin, convincing in its expression. Dark wild berries, black cherry, a little dark chocolate and a hint of tar on the nose, accompanied by spicy nuances and Mediterranean herbs. Structured and powerful on the palate, with firm tannins, well-integrated acidity and a fine mineral vein. The ageing in barriques rounds off the texture without smoothing out the originality. Terra shows how much character Aglianico can also develop outside of its classic homeland: an independent, exciting wine with depth and regional character. SUPERIORE.DE

Named after the Moar farm of the same name, which can look back on over 600 years of winegrowing tradition, this Classico embodies the soul of the St. Magdalener region. The vines grow on the south-facing slopes above Bolzano between 200 and 300 metres above sea level, where gravelly porphyry soils give the wine its unmistakable character. The classic cuvée of 85% Vernatsch and 15% Lagrein combines the best of two indigenous worlds: the floral lightness of Vernatsch with the structure-giving depth of Lagrein. After traditional fermentation, the wine matures in large oak barrels.

While the Magred thrives in the Mediterranean south of South Tyrol, the Gennen lies at the opposite end of the winery – in Nals, north of Bolzano, at 330 to 400 metres above sea level. A different world, a different character. No Ora wind, no Mediterranean flair. Instead: a continental climate, warm days, cool nights and a soil that has been washed. Literally. The subsoil is a 150 metre deep cone of debris from the Sirmian and Nals streams – 80% limestone gravel, 20% porphyry gravel, orientated east-southeast. This soil gives the Sauvignon Blanc its tension: striking minerality, salty flavour, aromatic precision. Cellar master Harald Schraffl ferments the clarified must for around three weeks in cool steel tanks and then matures the young wine for seven months on the fine lees – pure, without the influence of wood, focussing on freshness and structure.

A circular forest sits enthroned on the highest point of the vineyard, and inside it rests an Etruscan tomb – over 2,500 years old. Al Passo, "at the passage", is what they call this place, from where the view extends as far as the Torre del Mangia in Siena. Here, where past and present meet, the estate's most popular cuvée is created: equal parts Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, grown on the silty-clayey limestone soils of Castelnuovo Berardenga. Double selection, 20 days on the skins, then 14 months in French oak – six of which on the fine lees, which gives the wine its silky texture.

A Sangiovese cru that demonstrates the philosophy of single-vineyard viticulture to perfection. Sergio Zingarelli and his team recognised early on the extraordinary potential of the clay-dominated soils of Sant'Alfonso – plots with minimal skeleton content, which create the ideal conditions for concentrated, aromatically complex wines. Sangiovese clones were specifically cultivated here, which harmonise with the clay-rich structures and develop the highest phenol concentrations.

A Zinfandel with an Italian soul: Terra Nera Primitivo comes from organically farmed plots around Manduria, where old vines are rooted in red soil with veins of limestone – a terroir that allows the Primitivo (known internationally as Zinfandel) to reach its full potential. In the glass, it is a deep purple with a garnet-red core. The bouquet is dark, dense and complex: blackcurrant, dried figs and dark chocolate, accompanied by tobacco leaf, clove and a hint of graphite. On the palate, it is full-bodied but not overpowering, with ripe fruit, balanced acidity and finely polished tannins. The oak influence remains subtle, the structure firm and the finish remarkably clean. An expressive, organically produced Primitivo from 60- to 70-year-old vines, skilfully combining power and precision! SUPERIORE.DE

The Rivetti family, who have long since achieved fame with La Spinetta in Piedmont, found their Tuscan terroir for Vermentino in Terricciola. Sandy soils of marine origin, interspersed with oceanic sediments, characterise this white wine with its unmistakable minerality and salty freshness. The vines grow at an altitude of 250 metres on a south-easterly exposure and are cultivated organically. After manual harvesting, the must ferments spontaneously with natural yeasts, after which the wine rests for three to four months on the fine lees in stainless steel.

The Barbera vines for this wine are rooted in plots around Novello, partly in the renowned Ravera zone, on calcareous and clayey marl soils with good water retention. Deep ruby red in colour with a violet rim. The bouquet opens with ripe cherry, plum and blackcurrant, underpinned by violets, delicate herbal spice and a hint of liquorice. Full-bodied and harmonious on the palate, carried by juicy fruit and lively acidity that counteracts the warmth of the vintage with freshness. The tannins are soft but present and give the wine contour. Ageing for 12 months in large, used wooden barrels and a short period of maturation in the bottle round off the profile: a beautiful Barbera with a balance between fruitiness and elegance that is a true reflection of its origins. Outstanding value. SUPERIORE.DE

Roberto Anselmi and red wine? That doesn't really go together. While his colleagues in the Soave region have long since jumped on the lucrative Amarone bandwagon or, like Inama in the Colli Berici, produce exceptional red wines, the white wine purist has basically remained true to his line for decades. With one exception: at the foot of Monte Zoppega, hidden among his beloved Garganega vines, a little secret has been thriving for years: Realda, named after a historic church estate. Only 7,000 bottles of this single red wine in the Anselmi portfolio are produced each year – a little gimmick, as Roberto himself says, but a damn good one, in our opinion. 100 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, matured for 18 months in French Troncais barriques, with a further six months of bottle ageing.