Wine

San Pietro di Barbozza is no unknown name within the appellation. Anyone familiar with the hills knows that this is also where Cartizze is found. This legendary 107-hectare slope, the grand cru of the entire Valdobbiadene region, borders directly on the municipality of San Pietro di Barbozza – the same steep limestone cliffs, the same heroic hillside, the same ‘Biancone’ – that fine-grained limestone which has been breaking out of the mountain for millennia, imbuing the soils of this area with a sharp minerality. Andreola only began cultivating this plot for harvest 2024 harvest – just two hectares, facing east to west, with slopes of up to 80%. The soils become thinner with increasing altitude, until the roots reach directly into the limestone. No buffer, no storage – just rock and freshness.

When a princess decided in 1958 to start bottling wine, she didn't do it just any old way, but with a high standard of quality. Eleonora Ruspoli Berlingieri, who brought the historic Lilliano estate near Castellina in Chianti into the family's ownership as early as 1920, was the first to recognise the oenological potential of this site. At her side was Giulio Gambelli, the legendary Sangiovese guru and one of the great interpreters of Tuscan wines. Today, brothers Giulio and Pietro Ruspoli carry on the legacy – the family still resides in the historic Palazzo Ruspoli in the heart of Rome. The Chianti Classico named after them comes from around 40 hectares of vineyards on limestone-rich, stony Alberese soils, which, at an altitude of around 300 metres, delay the ripening of the grapes and thus preserve both acidity and aromatic freshness. The organically farmed vineyards produce a cuvée comprising 90% Sangiovese, complemented by five% each of Colorino and Merlot – a classic blend that complies with DOCG regulations and highlights the typical character of the region.

In Col San Martino, almost every second family bears the name Merotto. To distinguish the family from Graziano Merotto, they were given a nickname – and this nickname now appears on the label of its oldest brut sparkling wine. Bareta: a gesture of belonging, from the dialect directly into the glass. 100% Glera, exclusively from vineyards in Col San Martino, on yellowish-bluish marl with grey sandstone, 200 to 400 metres, south to south-east exposure, double-bend training. Gentle pressing, single-varietal fermentation at controlled temperature, second fermentation 50 to 60 days in autoclaves at 12–13 °C. Residual sugar < 8 g/litre – the dry end of the brut spectrum. Graziano calls Bareta the brut representation of his stylistic conviction.

Vines have been known in Col San Martino for over two thousand years. The Merotto family does not say this as an advertising message – it is simply what characterises the history of this small village. Graziano Merotto has developed his parents' winery into one of the most stylistically independent addresses in Valdobbiadene: no compromise on location, no compromise on care, no compromise on style. Colbelo is Merotto's oldest and most famous wine – the same character, the same standards for decades. 100% Glera from vineyards at 300 metres, south-facing, yellowish-bluish marl and sandstone, Sylvoz training. Vines from 15 to 18 years old. Hand-picked at the end of September, gentle pressing, single-varietal fermentation at a controlled temperature, second fermentation for 40 days in autoclaves at 12–13 °C. Residual sugar 16 g/litre – extra dry, which is the most obvious (and classic) choice for this grape variety and terroir.

Refrontolo lies on the eastern edge of the Denominazione – quieter, warmer, and a shade cooler than the steep slopes of the core zone. The Col del Forno vineyard is a natural amphitheatre covering around four hectares at an altitude of 250 metres, nestled between woods and terraced slopes. Andreola acquired the plot in 2016 – and from the very start, the wine has been one of the most compelling in the entire Rive range. What distinguishes Refrontolo from Col San Martino is not quality, but character. The clay-marl soils, featuring karst formations dating from before the last Ice Age, reliably retain moisture – ensuring a stable water supply for the vines even in dry years. Temperatures are slightly higher than in the western part of the appellation, meaning ripening begins earlier. The result is not wines of intense floral character, but Glera with a rich, ripe fruitiness: hawthorn, wisteria, apple, peach and yellow citrus fruits – a warmer, more complex spectrum of aromas.

Rive di Rolle lies in the shelter of the Trevigian Prealps – warmer than the more open sites of the Denominazione, with higher average annual temperatures and deep, fine-grained clay-marl soils that retain moisture and ensure a consistent water balance for the vines even in dry years. The result is a Glera that matures differently than elsewhere: more opulent, more fruit-driven, with an aromatic spectrum that goes far beyond the floral notes of the limestone vineyards. The Vigna Ochera is the most perfect representative of this terroir logic in the Andreola portfolio.

The "Collection" range from the Bolzano Winery is based on a simple principle: the wines bear the winemaker’s name, and each bottle is a portrait of a person and their vineyard site – and thus entails a mutual responsibility. Christian Graf Huyn cultivates the Steinerhof in Siebeneich, one of the warmest wine-growing areas near Bolzano, on sun-exposed porphyry soils at altitudes of between 250 and 300 metres. Merlot is the predominant variety grown on his vineyards. Photovoltaic power is used to run the farm machinery, alongside electric tools, and brush work is used instead of herbicides. Hand-harvesting, thinning the foliage by hand – and much of the work is done by muscle power rather than machinery. Traditional fermentation of the must takes place in steel tanks, followed by ageing in large oak barrels and then bottle ageing.

This classic wine from the Bozen Winery hails from the heartland of Lagrein, the warm porphyry soils of Bozen-Gries at an altitude of 250 metres. Formed in 2001 from the merger of the long-established Gries and St. Magdalena cooperatives, the winery is now one of the leading producers of indigenous South Tyrolean grape varieties – not least thanks to the keen instinct of cellar master Stephan Filippi, who has been making wine here for over three decades.

Count Otto Huyn (1927-1998) embodied the last splendour of the traditional South Tyrolean aristocracy – a nobleman from Eberstein in Carinthia, who owned his best vineyards in Siebeneich near Terlan, thus continuing a centuries-old winemaking tradition of the Tyrolean aristocracy. His privileged plots at an altitude of 250-300 metres, characterised by weathered porphyry soils of volcanic origin, were already considered the crown jewels of South Tyrolean viticulture during his lifetime. The Bolzano winery honours this heritage with its Collection Otto Graf Huyn, a selection that comes exclusively from the top vineyards of the historic estate, personally selected by the cellar master. The unique terroir of Siebeneich, where warm, sun-exposed slopes meet the nutrient-rich weathered soils of the Bolzano porphyry, creates ideal conditions for Bordeaux grape varieties. The cuvée of predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc benefits from the continental character of this location: warm days and cool nights give the grapes the concentration and finesse that characterise this Riserva.

The sparkling classic from Italy's leading Prosecco winery is now certified organic. Radiant in the glass, with the scent of white flowers and fruit, extremely fine and elegant in flavour. Clean, delicate finish. SUPERIORE.DE

The first alcoholic fermentation of the must takes place in steel tanks on the fine lees at a controlled temperature and after a waiting period of at least six months, the wine is bottled. The bottles remain at a constant temperature of 12°C so that the wine can undergo its second fermentation and mature on its own yeasts, which remain at the bottom of the bottle as a light sediment (note: it is not filtered!).

Pinot Noir from the finest vineyards in and around Eppan. The compact loamy soils, with limestone deposits on porphyry rock, provide ideal conditions for full-bodied grapes. The bouquet offers a variety of spicy and fruity aromas of raspberries and cherries. Powerful, full-bodied and harmonious on the palate, with an elegant flavour and a long, fruit-driven final. SUPERIORE.DE

Rosso Mosso means: a red wine that's on the move. The play on words is intentional. "Mosso" sounds like "mosto", the young wine that is fermenting and alive. Helena and Alois Clemens Lageder, representing the new generation, created this wine because they wanted to ask a question: what happens when you transform red wine into a fresher, more accessible, effervescent form without losing its character? The answer comes from a network. For over twenty years, Alois Lageder has been working with organic winegrowers from various South Tyrolean vineyards. For the Rosso Mosso, grapes from these partner vineyards come together; different vintages and grape varieties are blended and reimagined. No specific vintage, no boundaries. Volcanic and limestone soils; alcoholic fermentation and malolactic fermentation in stainless steel. The attractive label was designed by the Finnish artist Klaus Haapaniemi.

Santo Stefano Belbo is a small town in the Langhe, at the transition to the Asti zone – known as the birthplace of Cesare Pavese and the heart of Moscato cultivation. It is also the home of the Ceretto family. A second story began here in 1976, when Bruno and Marcello Ceretto had long been regarded as the reformers of Barolo and Barbaresco: together with four local winegrowing families, they founded I Vignaioli di Santo Stefano – out of a desire to restore the dignity of Moscato d'Asti. At the time, the grape variety had sunk into mass production and the name had been eroded. In contrast, they set 41 hectares, hand-picked grapes and a clear attitude. Today, almost fifty years later, the principle remains unchanged: 100% Moscato Bianco from marble-rich hillside terrain at around 400 metres above Santo Stefano Belbo and neighbouring Calosso. Fermented exclusively in steel. The freshness and varietal character of Moscato should speak for themselves, and they do so extremely well.

Pinot Blanc is not a fad in Terlan. It is the foundation. The grape variety around which cellar master Rudi Kofler has been thinking for decades is Pinot Bianco – and no other place in Italy produces it as clearly, as long-lived, as unmistakably as these slopes. The vineyards lie at 350 to 900 metres, on steep to very steep slopes on Monte Tschöggl – higher and cooler than most other Terlan parcels. Quartz porphyry, hand-picked, gentle pressing, slow fermentation in steel, 6–7 months on the fine lees.

Carménère was once one of the six great Bordeaux grape varieties. Following the phylloxera crisis, it was thought to have been lost – until it was rediscovered in Chile in the 1990s, where it had been marketed as Merlot for a century. And in the Colli Berici region of Veneto, it had survived quietly and unnoticed until Inama became the first winery in Italy to launch a serious project centred on it. Carménère and Merlot, from the hills south-west of Vicenza, aged for 12 months in used barriques. A red wine that is unrivalled in Europe – because no one else in the Colli Berici produces a Carménère apart from Inama. A real statement wine and excellent value for money.

Nascetta, indigenous to the Langhe region and particularly rooted in Novello, is considered the "forgotten queen of Piedmont's white wines". Once almost disappeared, it was revitalised by dedicated winegrowers and today shows its full potential: aromatically nuanced, elegantly matured and with natural tension. For La Regina, the grapes are carefully harvested and matured in stainless steel tanks to allow the fruit and origin to be clearly experienced. An authentic, rare white wine with character – and a shining example of the diversity of Piedmont.

When an artist founds a winery, the spirit of this artist wafts right into the last cellar room. The Brio label shows a detail from a fresco by Sandro Chia: chessboard, violin, clock. Existence, soul, time. An unusually serious statement for an entry-level wine. The wine behind it lives up to it. Sangiovese from the Scansano vineyards of Tenuta Ghiaccio Forte – young vines on volcanic soils, close to the sea, cool nights. A few months in wooden barrels, then bottle ageing.

The evening downdrafts from the Mendel Mountains give the entire terroir of the St. Michael-Eppan Winery its distinctive character. They ensure cool nights and endow the grapes with those exceptional qualities that define the wines' aromas, their unmistakable freshness and their longevity. The downwind is the natural force that sweeps across the vineyard every day, positively influencing the climate and supporting the valuable work of the winegrowers at the cooperative winery. 

Above Margreid, where the Mediterranean climate of the lowlands gives way to the coolness of the higher altitudes, lies the Penon. A single vineyard at an altitude of 500 to 600 metres, facing east-southeast – to the morning sun, which sweeps gently and evenly across the vineyard before the afternoon heat sets in. The soil is pure: exclusively limestone gravel with a high humus content. No porphyry, no volcanic deposits, no mixed rock. Just limestone – and, within this limestone, the most concentrated minerality that Nals Margreid has to offer for Pinot Bianco. The Penon is not a ‘Tradition’ wine, but one of the estate’s ‘Selection’ wines: a single vineyard vinified according to the estate’s own style. Hand-harvested, carefully processed, and further aged sur lies in stainless steel.