Wine

The Cotarellas dedicate a second Verdeluce to the "green heart of Italy": pure Vermentino from the hills around Montecchio near Orvieto. While the Bianco blend emphasises complexity and depth, the Vermentino plays the card of freshness and immediacy. Pale straw yellow in colour with greenish reflections. The nose is clean and delicate: camomile, kumquat, yellow peach, a hint of Mediterranean herbs. Slender and light-footed on the palate, with lively acidity and that salty undertone that characterises good Vermentino. Uncomplicated in the best sense of the word – a wine for an aperitif, for seafood, for summer evenings. SUPERIORE.DE

Grandiose Cannonau with a clear will: Sincaru ("serious") has a beautiful dialectic in its name and the sunny elegance of the Gallura terraces in the glass. 100% Cannonau from sun-drenched vineyards near Arzachena, on calcareous-sandy granite soil, clear mineral depth. The sea breeze with its cool nights ensures lively freshness and varietal typicity.

Clean and refined white wine (Riesling & Durella) from volcanic soils with aromas of ripe yellow grapefruit, melon and a hint of wet straw. Medium-bodied with a silky texture that becomes slightly phenolic towards the end. A note of bitter lemon on the finish is exciting. Lots of crisp flavour, good freshness and length. SUPERIORE.DE

Soligo and Col San Martino share the same geological origin – the same system of steep ridges between Vidor and Vittorio Veneto, the same limestone conglomerate rocks, the same heroic steepness of 300 to 500 metres. And yet the Más de Fer is a different wine. The difference lies in the soil. The plots on Col de Fer and San Gallo – around five hectares on a single contiguous slope, exposed to the south-east – grow exclusively on pure limestone conglomerate, without the marl inclusions that give Col San Martino its aromatic intensity. The thinnest soils, roots directly in the rock, constant light stress – but the result is not less, but different: fine elegance instead of power, verticality instead of breadth, a purity of expression that Andreola deliberately responds to with the extra dry dosage. The 14 g/l residual sugar is not a concession to the mass taste – they are the exact balance that this finesse needs.

Of the 43 classified Rive sites in the Valdobbiadene area, San Pietro di Barbozza is considered one of the most demanding. The hills of morainic origin, steep, difficult to access, with calcareous soils of loam and clay – they lie in the direct neighbourhood of Cartizze, the appellation's most famous Grand Cru. Not a bad neighbour. The demanding manual harvest is carried out exclusively from the highest, sunniest plots – deliberately selected for concentration and flavour. Only the best grapes from each vintage qualify for the limited Rive bottling. Gentle whole-cluster pressing, fermentation at a controlled temperature, second fermentation using the Charmat method – with a residual sugar content of less than 6 g/l = extra brut.

In 1850, Count Augusto Giorgi di Vistarino travelled through Burgundy. He recognised what he saw: those chalky, clayey soils, those temperature fluctuations, that stillness between the hills – the same promise, just three hundred kilometres further east, south of Pavia. He brought the first Pinot Nero grape seedlings directly from France and planted them in Rocca de' Giorgi. An act of conviction that changed Oltrepò Pavese forever. Today, the Vistarino family is the fifth generation to carry on this legacy – ottavia Giorgi di Vistarino replanted with Burgundian clones, selecting for low yields and aromatic depth. The Costa del Nero is Pinot Nero from a single, dedicated ridge. Hand-picked into 20-kilogram boxes, cold storage overnight, 48 hours of cold maceration at 10°C – all designed for freshness and flavour. Fermentation in steel, partial ageing in wood: subtle, structural.

At the Ebnerhof farm in Atzwang, the Unterthiner family works on sandy marl at an altitude of 500 to 550 metres. The eastern slopes benefit from warm winds from the Bolzano valley basin, while cool downdraughts provide freshness at night – ideal conditions for a Pinot Blanc with substance. After temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks, the wine matures on the fine lees, part of it in acacia wood barrels, which gives it additional depth.

On the south-facing slopes between 260 and 380 metres above the Adige Valley, South Tyrol's most aromatic white wine unfolds its full seductive power. The unique terroir of Andriano – reddish-loamy limestone soils interspersed with angular dolomite rock – gives Movado its characteristic mineral base. Here, where the continental climate meets Mediterranean influences, the reddish-grey berries of the famous Traminer grape ripen to aromatic perfection. Fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature in stainless steel, followed by six months of refinement on the fine lees, which gives Movado its characteristic texture and complexity.

The Eloro DOC in south-east Sicily stands for Rosati with character, structure and regional typicity. Soft salmon pink with copper reflections. The nose has a complex aroma of wild strawberries, blood orange and Mediterranean herbs. On the palate, the 2024 is precise, fresh and delicately flavoured with delicate fruit, lively acidity and salty minerality. The Rosato is made exclusively from Nero d'Avola from the San Lorenzo vineyard, fermented spontaneously in stainless steel and matured on the fine lees – in the spirit of Gulfi: natural, purist and with a clear terroir expression. An elegant, authentic wine with a Mediterranean soul and energising freshness. Ideal with antipasti, grilled fish or on its own. SUPERIORE.DE

Biancospino shines in the glass with a light straw yellow colour and a subtle greenish tinge. The nose already reveals delicate aromas of mandarin, lime and geranium blossom, livened up by salty minerality and white flowers. On the palate, a finely sparkling mousse, lively freshness, a delicate spicy note and aromatic support form a finish full of character. The ageing in stainless steel emphasises the clarity of the fruit and the typical Moscato notes – a finesse-rich, natural aperitif with plenty of vigour and elegance. SUPERIORE.DE

The name ennobles: Baron Carl Josef Eyrl von und zu Waldgries und Liebenaich – is the full title of the patron, whose vineyards are located in the heart of the classic Lagrein growing area of Gries. The "Collection" line of the Bolzano winery stands for wines from selected vineyards that combine complexity with straightforwardness. After controlled fermentation in stainless steel, the wine matures for twelve months in large oak barrels – an ageing process that preserves the varietal character and gives the Lagrein a gentle polish.

The name is the programme – and a promise. "Tre Filer": three rows, three grape varieties, one idea. Turbiana, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc grow on the chalky, clayey soils of Lugana di Sirmione, the southern shore of Lake Garda, which Ca' dei Frati has understood like no other winery in the region for generations. What is made from these grapes follows an old logic with modern self-confidence. The harvest takes place late – deliberately too late, one might say. What is left over goes into the fruttaio, the drying room, and rests there for at least ninety days. During this time, the berries shrink and everything concentrates: sugar, flavours, character. Then comes the surprise: no wooden barrels, no barriques – instead, twelve to fourteen months in steel on the fine lees, followed by a year of ageing in the bottle. A sweet wine that dispenses with any opulent wood flavour and instead focuses on purity.

San Pietro di Barbozza is no unknown name within the appellation. Anyone familiar with the hills knows that this is also where Cartizze is found. This legendary 107-hectare slope, the grand cru of the entire Valdobbiadene region, borders directly on the municipality of San Pietro di Barbozza – the same steep limestone cliffs, the same heroic hillside, the same ‘Biancone’ – that fine-grained limestone which has been breaking out of the mountain for millennia, imbuing the soils of this area with a sharp minerality. Andreola only began cultivating this plot for harvest 2024 harvest – just two hectares, facing east to west, with slopes of up to 80%. The soils become thinner with increasing altitude, until the roots reach directly into the limestone. No buffer, no storage – just rock and freshness.

When a princess decided in 1958 to start bottling wine, she didn't do it just any old way, but with a high standard of quality. Eleonora Ruspoli Berlingieri, who brought the historic Lilliano estate near Castellina in Chianti into the family's ownership as early as 1920, was the first to recognise the oenological potential of this site. At her side was Giulio Gambelli, the legendary Sangiovese guru and one of the great interpreters of Tuscan wines. Today, brothers Giulio and Pietro Ruspoli carry on the legacy – the family still resides in the historic Palazzo Ruspoli in the heart of Rome. The Chianti Classico named after them comes from around 40 hectares of vineyards on limestone-rich, stony Alberese soils, which, at an altitude of around 300 metres, delay the ripening of the grapes and thus preserve both acidity and aromatic freshness. The organically farmed vineyards produce a cuvée comprising 90% Sangiovese, complemented by five% each of Colorino and Merlot – a classic blend that complies with DOCG regulations and highlights the typical character of the region.

In Col San Martino, almost every second family bears the name Merotto. To distinguish the family from Graziano Merotto, they were given a nickname – and this nickname now appears on the label of its oldest brut sparkling wine. Bareta: a gesture of belonging, from the dialect directly into the glass. 100% Glera, exclusively from vineyards in Col San Martino, on yellowish-bluish marl with grey sandstone, 200 to 400 metres, south to south-east exposure, double-bend training. Gentle pressing, single-varietal fermentation at controlled temperature, second fermentation 50 to 60 days in autoclaves at 12–13 °C. Residual sugar < 8 g/litre – the dry end of the brut spectrum. Graziano calls Bareta the brut representation of his stylistic conviction.

Vines have been known in Col San Martino for over two thousand years. The Merotto family does not say this as an advertising message – it is simply what characterises the history of this small village. Graziano Merotto has developed his parents' winery into one of the most stylistically independent addresses in Valdobbiadene: no compromise on location, no compromise on care, no compromise on style. Colbelo is Merotto's oldest and most famous wine – the same character, the same standards for decades. 100% Glera from vineyards at 300 metres, south-facing, yellowish-bluish marl and sandstone, Sylvoz training. Vines from 15 to 18 years old. Hand-picked at the end of September, gentle pressing, single-varietal fermentation at a controlled temperature, second fermentation for 40 days in autoclaves at 12–13 °C. Residual sugar 16 g/litre – extra dry, which is the most obvious (and classic) choice for this grape variety and terroir.

Rive di Rolle lies in the shelter of the Trevigian Prealps – warmer than the more open sites of the Denominazione, with higher average annual temperatures and deep, fine-grained clay-marl soils that retain moisture and ensure a consistent water balance for the vines even in dry years. The result is a Glera that matures differently than elsewhere: more opulent, more fruit-driven, with an aromatic spectrum that goes far beyond the floral notes of the limestone vineyards. The Vigna Ochera is the most perfect representative of this terroir logic in the Andreola portfolio.

Refrontolo lies on the eastern edge of the Denominazione – quieter, warmer, and a shade cooler than the steep slopes of the core zone. The Col del Forno vineyard is a natural amphitheatre covering around four hectares at an altitude of 250 metres, nestled between woods and terraced slopes. Andreola acquired the plot in 2016 – and from the very start, the wine has been one of the most compelling in the entire Rive range. What distinguishes Refrontolo from Col San Martino is not quality, but character. The clay-marl soils, featuring karst formations dating from before the last Ice Age, reliably retain moisture – ensuring a stable water supply for the vines even in dry years. Temperatures are slightly higher than in the western part of the appellation, meaning ripening begins earlier. The result is not wines of intense floral character, but Glera with a rich, ripe fruitiness: hawthorn, wisteria, apple, peach and yellow citrus fruits – a warmer, more complex spectrum of aromas.