The Wine Advocate | 95–100 Points

Chiara's Barolo from the Mosconi single vineyard of the same name is powerful, muscular and full of opulence. Rich, bright ruby red colour. Rich aromas of eucalyptus, wild rosemary, plum and black cherry. Deep and powerful on the palate with beautiful spicy accents, dense tannins and a very juicy structure. For us, this Barolo belongs in the top class of the appellation, it always carries its great weight with maximum elegance and is highly authentic, completely in the style of Chiara Boschis, who has once again delivered something really great here. Please leave it in the cellar for a few more years! SUPERIORE.DE

The historic Cerretta cru vineyard is located just north of the village of Serralunga d'Alba and is considered one of the most complex parcels in the appellation. The slopes are exposed to the south-west and west, giving the vines both long hours of sunshine and cooling evening breezes. The soils consist of a characteristic mixture of calcareous marl, clay and fine veins of sand – a constellation that gives the Nebbiolo here its unmistakable balance of power, elegance and aromatic depth. The 2021 vintage brought perfect conditions with cool nights, clear autumn days and a harmonious ripening curve. The grapes were harvest exclusively by hand, followed by traditional maceration and around 32 months of ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels, which allow the character of the vineyard to shine through clearly.

In 2011, Giampaolo Motta created a manifesto of love for both his daughter Carla and that unruly Tuscan diva called Sangiovese. After two attempts that proved unsatisfactory, the breakthrough came in 2011: the birth of a wine that comes exclusively from plot number 6 – a unique terroir of grey slate and sand that rests like a mysterious treasure in the golden Conca d'Oro of Panzano. What Bordeaux romantic Motta and his famous Oenologist Stéphane Derenoncourt have achieved here is a completely new interpretation of a single-varietal Sangiovese wine. "This wine is made by the soil, not the vineyard," philosophises Motta – a subtle but crucial distinction between terroir and mere geography.

Barolo Via Nuova is a blend of fruit from different vineyards in several villages of the appellation. Packed with cherry and raspberry flavours, it is both supple and firmly structured. Shows notes of earth, minerals, eucalyptus and aniseed that give it volume and structure, while the muscular tannins still have the upper hand on the finish at first. Deep and rich as it progresses, but never heavy. We find a hint of oak sweetness, but this only adds to the exotic beauty of the wine. Via Nuova 2021 is a wine of exceptional harmony, purity and finesse with an eternally long finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Some wineries tell their story on display boards. At Fuligni, it hangs on the walls. The palazzo in the centre of Montalcino dates back to the 17th century – the Medici resided here and a Spanish princess left a room that still bears her name today. Underneath, deeper than the palazzo itself, are the cellars: built at the end of the 16th century, with vaulted ceilings in tecnica mista, completely naturally insulated. This is where the Brunello matures in Slavonian oak barrels. It also matured here when Giovanni Maria Fuligni came to Montalcino at the beginning of the 20th century – and it matures here, just as his ancestors made wine in the Maremma before him, without interruption, without abbreviation.

The Ravera vineyard on the Novello side, where steep hills descend from a castle perched on a beautiful panorama, is one of the best cru sites in the Barolo DOCG. From this vantage point, you can see Novello and the Elvio Cogno winery, which is located halfway up the slope. Valter Fissore's Ravera from the great 2021 vintage benefits from this special location and shows terrific versatility and depth every year.

The Serra site is located in the heart of Serralunga d'Alba, in the direct neighbourhood of some of the most renowned cru parcels in the municipality. At an altitude of around 360 metres and with a predominantly south-westerly exposure, the vines benefit from optimal sunshine in the afternoon, while the cool downdraughts at night ensure delayed, even ripening. The subsoil of calcareous marl with sandy inclusions gives the wines from the Serra vineyard their fine, almost silky texture. The 2020 vintage showed its balanced side: a moderate summer, a long growing season and a stable autumn ensured flawless grapes with perfect phenolic ripeness. After careful manual harvesting and selection, the grapes were gently pressed and fermented in concrete for a good three weeks. The wine then matured for two years in large oak barrels to preserve its elegance and terroir fidelity.

Massimo Piccin is living the dream of giving new expression to Bordeaux growths from Bolgheri and producing wines that combine power, elegance and longevity. And so the Sapaio offers its full, vital and tannin-rich style magnificently and allows plenty of time for the finish. Once again, some of the grapes come from Bibbona, i.e. outside the Bolgheri DOC, so that this great wine can only bear the addition Toscana IGT.

It was 1988 when Bruno and Brigitte Widmer ventured a bold dream that would change the Tuscan wine world forever. Their Il Blu – named after the timeless blue label with orange capsule – became the icon of an entire generation of Supertuscans, a manifesto of modernity in the midst of centuries-old traditions. Today, after more than three decades of perfection, the organically certified Il Blu 2022 epitomises Barbara Widmer's visionary continuity. What once began as a Sangiovese-dominated cuvée has developed into an 80% Merlot blend with 10% each of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon thanks to the ever-growing complexity of the Merlot vines from Radda, now over thirty years old. Only the finest, hand-picked grapes for this exceptional wine come from the two Chianti estates in Castellina and Radda. The clay and galestro soils at an altitude of 230 to 400 metres, characterised by a continental climate with hot summers and cold winters, give the grapes their characteristic intensity. The vinification follows a ritual of precision: each parcel, each grape variety matures individually for 18 months in French barriques – two thirds new, one third used barrels. Only then is the final blend made, followed by three months of refinement in uncoated concrete tanks and at least one year of ageing in the bottle.

Bright garnet colour with a ruby red core. A polyphonic, clear Nebbiolo image on the nose: sour cherry, red forest berries and pomegranate, plus dried roses, white pepper, liquorice and a cool, stony-mineral undertone. Silky and taut at the same time on the palate, the fruit is clear as a bell, carried by lively, straight acidity and fine-grained, chalky tannins; the wood only appears as a textural finishing touch. Very long, salty-mineral finish with a delicate herbal freshness. A Fausoni-Barbaresco from the MGA of the same name with calm authority and precise elegance – transparent, full of energy and with outstanding potential for the coming years. SUPERIORE.DE

The Sottimano winery has five vineyard sites, with the Pajoré site near Treiso having the poorest soil of all. These wines are therefore more elegant and mature. Pajoré is a super-classic, explosive wine, endowed with enormous depth and character. Although it has plenty of breadth and texture, it remains light on its feet. Lavender, mint, liquorice and purple berry fruit are beguiling and wonderfully vibrant in the glass. Pajorè is a spicy, elegant and sweet Nebbiolo that is fine yet covers the mouth well - and we are always impressed by its lovely savoury mouthfeel. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1969, Rino Sottimano acquired a vineyard that was to become the foundation of his winery: The Cru Cottà, 2.8 hectares located between the municipalities of Neive and Barbaresco, where south-westerly exposures and sandy soils give the Nebbiolo the fullness and structure that make this Barbaresco so special. The vines, now 80 years old, are spaced unusually far apart, a relic from times when vegetables and artichokes were still cultivated between the rows of vines. A historical planting method that gives the roots room to penetrate deep into the calcareous clay soil. Cottà has always been the most fruit-orientated of the five Sottimano crus, a wine of concentrated power that combines the fleshy polyphenols of the Neive vineyards with the distinctive tannin structure of Barbaresco.

Sand changes everything. In Neive, where many Barbaresco soils are dominated by marl and clay, the Fausoni vineyard is interspersed with sandy components – and this difference is no mere detail. Sand conducts heat differently, drains more quickly, contains fewer nutrients and forces the vine to concentrate its flavours. At the same time, it lends the tannins a finesse that does not develop in heavier soils. Forty-year-old vines growing in this light subsoil have learnt to grow deep and slender. The result is the softest, most floral of the five Sottimano Barbareschi. Fermentation with natural yeasts, prolonged contact with the cap, natural malolactic fermentation. 18 to 22 months in barriques specially made for the estate, half of which is spent on the lees. Like all five crus: no filtration, no fining, and a further year of bottle ageing. The same care – and a completely different result.

Do you know the Basarin vineyard near Neive? You can expect a bright ruby-garnet colour and a wine from a particularly fine vintage: the bouquet is a cornucopia of wild sour cherry aromas, herbs, a little liquorice and tobacco. Firm and very clearly structured on the palate, muscular and yet with an elegance that never loses control due to its power. Basarin is a highly energetic and precise Nebbiolo that only reveals its complexity with a little patience and aeration. The neighbouring Neive terroir reveals itself with distinguished elegance and blends harmoniously with the volume and weight typical of the site - and with a depth that only vines over 50 years old can produce. SUPERIORE.DE

The Rosso di Montalcino comes from slightly younger Brunello vines and is matured for 12 months in large oak barrels. It undoubtedly bears the signature of the top winery Biondi Santi: delicately sweet, open flavours of red berries, flowers and cloves. Like all of the winery's other wines, the Rosso is classic and firm in style, with a bombastic structure and a brilliant, long finish. True to the house, it also has a long ageing and maturation potential and can compete with some of the Brunello wines of the appellation today and in the future. SUPERIORE.DE

Within the walls of history. The Castello di Bolgheri, built in 1796 and thus the oldest winery in Bolgheri, sits enthroned in the heart of the medieval village like a stone witness to great wine culture. While the world of wine underwent its revolutionary transformation around the Castello – sassicaia and Ornellaia wrote their legendary stories –a treasure lay dormant here that only awoke to its true destiny under Count Federico Zileri Dal Verme. The blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc and 5% Merlot not only represents the art of blending, but also the philosophy of the house: finesse over power, elegance over opulence. While the best parcels of Cabernet Sauvignon underwent an exceptionally long maceration of 30 days – only possible in exceptional vintages –the wine matured for 20 months in traditional Italian vats and Liters barrels. This choice of large wooden barrels, a deliberate departure from the small barriques of its neighbours, gives the wine the crystalline purity and mineral depth that makes the Castello the "Château Margaux of Bolgheri".

Treiso is not Neive. Once you've grasped that, you begin to see the Barbaresco appellation in a different light. Neive offers power, body and polyphenols. Treiso – the southernmost of the three Barbaresco municipalities, situated at a higher altitude, cooler, with more compact, limestone-rich soils – imparts rigour, minerality and a longevity that some other sites lack. The MGA Pajoré is Treiso's voice in the Sottimano collection: the most traditional, the most persistent and, of the five crus, the one that demands the most patience. Old vines on calcareous-clay soils, steep and well-exposed. Organic cultivation from the outset. Fermentation with natural yeasts, extended maceration, natural malolactic fermentation. Aged for 18 to 22 months in François-Frères barriques, half on the lees, with a minimal proportion of new oak. No filtration. No fining. A further year in the bottle. The same winemaking method as always – and, as so often, proof that terroir matters more than technique.

This is where it all began. When Rino Sottimano acquired his first plots in Neive in the 1970s, Cottà was his first vineyard – that south-west-facing site near the border with the municipality of Barbaresco, where the Nebbiolo benefits from two worlds: the power and polyphenols that Neive imparts to its wines, and the balance of tannins that the proximity to Barbaresco brings. It is the family's oldest plot – and the most authentic. Vines aged between 40 and 60 years on gently rolling slopes with light grey and yellowish Tortonian and Helvetic marl. Organic viticulture without compromise, fermentation with natural yeasts, long maceration with the cap submerged. Malolactic fermentation, which is not completed until the spring following the harvest. Then 18 to 22 months in barriques specially crafted for Sottimano by François Frères, half on the lees, with a small proportion of new oak. No filtration, no fining.

The name is history. Sapaio – an old Tuscan grape variety, long forgotten, but not its memory. When Massimo Piccin founded his winery in 1999, he chose this name as a sign of his deep connection to the terroir. A tribute to what was and a promise of what was to come. The vineyards extend over the municipalities of Bibbona and Castagneto Carducci, 40 hectares on quaternary deposits, from loose, coarse-grained sand deposits to alluvial soils with calcareous subsoil. Just ten kilometres from the sea, a microclimate that brings Bordeaux varieties to life. Since 2015, Piccin has been going his own way: instead of the prestigious Bolgheri Superiore DOCG, he deliberately chooses the free IGT Toscana, just to be able to add the handful of grapes from Bibbona that make Sapaio what it is today. Sometimes greatness means renouncing titles and regulations.

The small vineyard is located at an altitude of 500 m above the Galatrona Tower and offers the best conditions for growing the French grape variety Cabernet Sauvignon. Due to the limestone subsoil, this site is also called a luxury site (campo lusso). Intense and generous bouquet of dark fruits, leather and chocolate. Complex and deep on the palate, very focused and with increasing aeration very elegant and aristocratic. A complete red that will delight not only Cabernet lovers. Only about 1,300 bottles of this spectacular drop can be produced per vintage. SUPERIORE.DE

Ugolaia is a name that carries weight in Montalcino. The vineyard is located in the classic Sesta area, exposed to the south-west, in one of the best-sunniest and best-ventilated areas of the entire estate – and it bears a tradition that is taken literally at Lisini: The "veterani" of the company, the most experienced employees who have known the estate for decades, personally graft scions from the company's own massalselection onto wild rootstocks. No clone selection from the catalogue, no technological shortcuts – but knowledge passed on from hand to hand, vintage after vintage.