Organic White Wine

Beppe Fenoglio and Cesare Pavese have chronicled these hills; it was from them that the families of Conterno Fantino learnt to express who they are. They do so primarily through red wine, and since 1993 also through a Chardonnay. Near Monforte d'Alba, Chardonnay has been grown since 1990; planting continued until 1998 on west- and east-facing slopes at altitudes between 300 and 550 metres, in silty soil with a high sand content, using organic farming methods. The grapes are harvested by hand in early September; the whole bunches are gently pressed, and fermentation and malolactic fermentation take place in French oak, where the wine also matures in barrels of various sizes.

From Vittoria to Chiaramonte Gulfi, always following the limestone trail. Along the Iblean Mountains, the ancient sea, the flint – and the Grillo. This is how Arianna Occhipinti describes the journey that gave rise to this wine. She wanted to see how Grillo would fare at 240 metres, on the limestone hills of her homeland, where the subsoil consists of ancient marine sediment rather than the red sand on which her other wines are grown. The vineyard lies on the Promontorio Serra San Bartolo, a rocky ridge that separates two geological worlds: on one side, the historic contrade with red sand and tuff, Occhipinti's familiar terrain since the very first vintage. On the other side, compact limestone. Serracalcara lies exactly in between. The soil reveals both facets: white sand with iron inclusions on the surface; beneath this, at a depth of 30 to 40 centimetres, layers of marine limestone that are seabeds millions of years old. Cultivated biodynamically, using the "Guyot basso" training system with double branching, at a density of 5,291 vines per hectare.

In 1557, a candle factory made Count Vincenzo Consolati wealthy enough to establish a country estate near Trento. In 1815, an Empire-style villa was built there for Count Simone Consolati, intended as a retreat from the worries of city life and a place to entertain friends. The First World War devastated the estate, but new plantings saved it. Foradori has leased the vineyards since 2007; the slopes face south, and the soil is red and interspersed with white rock, consisting of clay and limestone. Three hectares are planted with Nosiola, an ancient Trentino grape variety that once grew throughout the region but is now found only in the Valle dei Laghi, on the hills of Trento and in Pressano. The wine remains on the skins for eight months, in Spanish clay amphorae from Villarrobledo.

Off the beaten track, following a different path and with a different relationship with nature: this is how the estate describes this wine, which is the result of a collaboration between Foradori and the biodynamic winegrower Marco Devigili. Two hectares of Pinot Grigio are grown in Campo Rotaliano near Mezzolombardo, on alluvial gravel soil, and the wine is transferred to clay amphorae. The wine remains on the skins for more than eight months, allowing the grape variety time to reveal its delicate character.

Brò is a white wine from sustainable cultivation that is hard to beat in terms of freshness, elegance and enjoyment. The grapes come from the clay and limestone soils near Fiumana di Predappio. Pale straw yellow in colour with greenish reflections. On the nose, a captivating blend of crushed stones, spiced orange peel, dried apricot and peach, mixed with herbal elements. On the characterful palate, it is complex, juicy and very drinkable with its freshness and lightness. SUPERIORE.DE

The area surrounding the small town of Milo is the only vineyard on Mount Etna where an "Etna Bianco Superiore" is permitted to be bottled – and for good reason: only Carricante may be planted on this steep vineyard, which consists of dozens of small terraces. The vines are trained like small saplings on chestnut wood stakes. The east-facing aspect and the proximity of the sea allow the grapes to ripen late, resulting in very consistent acidity levels and, ultimately, a white wine of aromatic finesse and freshness that is unrivalled even on Mount Etna. 

This Riesling is an exceptional phenomenon: it grows on the black, barren lava soils of northern Etna at an altitude of almost 900 metres – in a microclimate that is almost alpine. The grapes come from the historic Contrada Sciaranuova, a place shaped by the massive eruption of 1614. Wines of salty tension, cool precision and a depth that is unrivalled in southern Italy are produced here. Fermentation and ageing take place exclusively in stainless steel in order to preserve freshness and pure expression of origin. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with a silver sheen. Crystal-clear citrus notes, green apple, white peach, smoke and a fine hint of petrol on the nose – subtle, not overpowering. Vibrant and slender on the palate, with focussed acidity, mineral density and a long, almost crystalline final. Great with oysters, scallops or purist Japanese cuisine. SUPERIORE.DE

Countess Sophie Goëss-Enzenberg, who runs the estate together with her husband Michael, gave this Chardonnay her name. A wine that combines elegance with determination, finesse with power. Half the grapes come from one of two contrasting worlds: Terlan Lieben Aich at 300 metres, facing west, where loamy sandy soil on volcanic porphyry nourishes Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. And Kaltern Mazzon – Manincor's steepest vineyard, the 'Leiten' with gradients of up to 100 per cent. Here, Chardonnay and Viognier are rooted at altitudes of between 350 and 400 metres in calcareous loess-loam, facing south-west towards the light. Two soils, two microclimates, one vision. The destemmed berries macerate for four hours in the press – longer than for the Eichhorn, shorter than for the Sauvignons. Finesse is the guiding principle; the pressing process is slow and meticulous. Spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts takes place in wooden barrels of various sizes, followed by nine months' ageing on the fine lees. Here, the aroma and structure develop into the density that characterises Sophie.

It was in 2007 that Marc de Grazia tasted a 42-year-old Carricante for the first time – and that moment changed everything. Three different occasions, three different bottles, yet always the same revelation: a wine of such impeccable beauty and youthful vigour, despite its venerable age, that the Etna pioneer knew immediately: this was the sort of wine he wanted to create himself. From this vision emerged Le Vigne Niche Santo Spirito, a tribute to the past and, at the same time, a manifesto for the future. In the Contrada Santo Spirito, at an altitude of 700 to 800 metres in Castiglione di Sicilia, the Carricante vines thrive on jet-black volcanic soils, rich in ash from past eruptions. Here, where for centuries only red grapes had been cultivated, Marc dared to attempt the seemingly impossible: single-varietal white crus of world-class calibre.

Whilst Santo Spirito unfolds its floral elegance at an airy altitude of 700 to 800 metres, Calderara Sottana is rooted in a completely different world. Just a few kilometres away, yet geologically distinct, this Contrada lies at an altitude of 620 to 670 metres, right next to the vineyard; and it is here that the extraordinary complexity of the Etna terroir reveals itself. In Calderara Sottana, Marc de Grazia discovered one of Sicily's rarest treasures: a pure, elliptical terroir, formed 60,000 years ago by volcanic eruptions. Of the hundreds of contrade on Mount Etna, only three possess this unique geological fingerprint, and Calderara is one of them. Whilst the Santo Spirito captivates with its crystalline minerality and maritime freshness, the Calderara Sottana is more opulent, creamier and warmer.

In the hills between Castagneto Carducci and the Tyrrhenian Sea, Grattamacco has achieved a remarkable feat: an elegant Vermentino that brings together terroir, grape variety and vinification methods with rare depth. The grapes come from organically cultivated plots at a coastal altitude – consistently well-ventilated, yet characterised by intense sunshine and a significant day-night temperature difference. The combination of sea breezes and limestone-rich soils produces a white wine of impressive substance.

Whilst Santo Spirito unfolds its floral elegance at an airy altitude of 700 to 800 metres, Calderara Sottana is rooted in a completely different world. Just a few kilometres away, yet geologically distinct, this Contrada lies at an altitude of 620 to 670 metres directly adjacent to the vineyard – and it is here that the extraordinary complexity of the Etna terroir reveals itself. In Calderara Sottana, Marc de Grazia discovered one of Sicily's rarest treasures: a pure, elliptical terroir, formed 60,000 years ago by volcanic eruptions. Of the hundreds of contrade on Mount Etna, only three possess this unadulterated geological fingerprint, and Calderara is one of them. Whilst the Santo Spirito captivates with its crystalline minerality and maritime freshness, the Calderara Sottana is more opulent, creamier and warmer.

In 1991, Alois Lageder succeeded in acquiring Casòn Hirschprunn, a historic estate that was mentioned in documents as early as the 13th century and today forms the spiritual heart of Lageder's biodynamic philosophy. Here, in the Renaissance palazzo in the middle of Magreid, where over 30 hectares of vineyards between 230 and 360 metres adorn the gentle slopes of the Margreider Schuttkegel, a revolution began in 1995: the first biodynamic experiments on Italian soil, which made the winery one of the pioneers of this holistic form of cultivation. "Tasting the unpredictable" – is how Alois Lageder himself defines the nature of this extraordinary white wine, which epitomises the joy of experimentation and innovative strength of the estate like no other.

A little marvel, perfectly balanced with complex aromas of tropical fruits, apples and honey. A highly intriguing natural white wine that is far more than just a light-hearted treat, as it offers an exceptionally full-bodied, well-structured flavour. Fermented with the skins using the red wine method. A deep yellow colour with golden highlights. An intense bouquet of dried herbs, incense, candied lemon peel and a hint of bitter orange. On the palate, fresh citrus notes, an exciting acidity profile and a robust structure lead into a very long finish, crowned by a hint of bitter almonds. Highly complex and a wonderful accompaniment to food – be sure to let it breathe! SUPERIORE.DE

In Sicily, "Firraru" is not simply a profession – it is a symbol of artisanal precision and quiet dignity. The blacksmith who, with patience, fire and strength, forges enduring values. Feudo Maccari dedicates its most impressive white wine to this image: a single-varietal Grillo that, like almost no other, brings to life the connection between terroir, patience and depth. The name has been chosen deliberately, for the wine is artisanal, elegant, precise and, at the same time, uncompromisingly Sicilian. The grapes come from a high-altitude plot in the south-east of the island, where the limestone-rich soil and proximity to the sea lend the Grillo structure and a salty edge. Hand-picking, gentle pressing and slow fermentation form the foundation – the wine is then aged for 12 months on the fine lees inLiters French oakLiters, with a portion also matured in concrete eggs.

The Popoli vineyard bears witness to the fact that the Valle Reale plateau has been a wine-growing area since time immemorial. Several rows of this vineyard stretch out in front of the ruins of a cave cellar dating back to 1300. This is where the Benedictine monks from the monastery of San Benedetto in Perillis produced and stored their wine. A small plot of around 1 hectare is dedicated to Trebbiano d'Abruzzo.

It was in December 1998 when a customer knocked on Giuseppe Bisci's door and asked for "vino d'annata" – a young wine, ready to drink straight away. Yet Bisci, as a matter of principle, only sold his Verdicchio after at least two years' ageing. Giuseppe turned the customer away, but the encounter stayed with him. The high-altitude calcareous clay soils of Matelica, where the Apennines rise majestically into the sky, did not produce simple everyday wines – they were capable of so much more! The continental climate, with sun-drenched days and freezing mountain nights, gave the Verdicchio an intensity, minerality and a backbone of acidity that allowed for decades of ageing – something almost unheard of in Italian white wine. That very same day, Giuseppe turned to his cellar master, Aroldo Bellelli: "Let's make a wine for the next person who asks for a young wine – so that we can tell him: "We make Riserva, and that won't be released for another seven years!""

It was in December 1998 when a customer knocked on Giuseppe Bisci's door and asked for "vino d'annata" – young wine, ready to drink straight away. Yet Bisci, as a rule, only sold his Verdicchio after at least two years' ageing. Giuseppe turned the customer away, but the encounter stayed with him. The high-altitude calcareous clay soils of Matelica, where the Apennines rise majestically into the sky, did not produce simple, everyday wines – they were capable of so much more! The continental climate, with sun-drenched days and freezing mountain nights, gave the Verdicchio an intensity, minerality and backbone of acidity that allowed for decades of ageing – something almost unheard of in Italian white wine. That very same day, Giuseppe turned to his cellar master, Aroldo Bellelli: "Let's make a wine for the next person who asks for a young wine – so that we can tell them: we make Riserva, and it's only released after seven years!"

With the Bòggina B, Petrolo revived an almost forgotten tradition in 2014: the great white wine of the Valdarno, as Tuscany had known it for centuries before red wine came to dominate the region. The wine takes its name from the Bòggina vineyard, where the first Trebbiano vines were planted in the 1970s; below this vineyard, the family has since replanted with the same original clones to secure the stock for decades to come. The 2024 vintage comes from certified organic cultivation, harvested by hand into crates and sorted on the sorting table. Spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts in tonneaux, it matures for over 15 months on the fine lees in specially selected French oak barrels, with bâtonnage that is constant at first and gradually tapers off – the wine remains unfiltered and undisturbed until bottling.

Dear Aich – the name sounds like old South Tyrolean history, and that's exactly what it is. The Tenuta Lieben Aich in Terlan, at an altitude of 300 metres, was once part of the estate with which Hieronymus Manincor was rewarded for his services to Austria in 1608 and elevated to the nobility. The family has been producing wine for over 300 years. The "Man-in-cor" coat of arms – hand on heart – still adorns the façade of the ancestral home on Lake Kaltern. The south-west facing vineyards benefit from a warm, breezy microclimate and sandy soils of volcanic origin: porphyry weathered rock that combines minerality and drainage. 2023 presented the winegrowers with challenges – wet spring, hot and dry summer, then a golden autumn that allowed for perfect ripeness. Aromas, sugar and acidity were in perfect balance by mid-September. Yield: 41 hectolitres per hectare. The destemmed grapes macerate on the skins for twelve hours – an unusual step for white wine, which extracts flavour and structure from the skins. Spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts takes place in wooden barrels, followed by ten months of ageing on the fine lees in large oak barrels.

There are wines that seek their time. And there are wines to which time confides its secrets. Historical Vecchie Vigne is one of those rare gems that only reveal their true colours after more than five years of ageing – a tribute by the Bernetti family to Verdicchio and at the same time a radical statement: that even non-aromatic white grape varieties can be among the very best if they are given the time they deserve. In Montecarotto, where the hills of the Verdicchio Classico find their noblest expression, there is a small plot at 310 metres above sea level, isolated in the middle of the historic Vecchie Vigne. Vines over fifty years old are rooted here in brooding, fresh, loamy soils that provide Verdicchio with the minerality and substance that only old vines can give. Eastern exposure, perfect balance between growth and yield – these vines were planted in the early seventies and today produce grapes of a concentration and ripeness that are harvested by hand at the end of September, beginning of October, berry by berry intact.

The Capestrano vineyard is located in the plain of Ofena, just a few kilometres from Popoli and still around 400 metres above sea level. It is part of the Convento vineyard and is planted throughout with Trebbiano d'Abruzzo. The unspoilt environment of the Capestrano spring located there has a high level of biodiversity, which is reflected in the numerous aquatic plants, bushes, flowers and spontaneous vegetation that, thanks to the indigenous yeasts, give the wines made from these grapes their unmistakable organoleptic profile.

Eichhorn Vineyard – the name evokes South Tyrol, with its centuries-old vines rooted in sandy loam soils on weathered volcanic porphyry rock. As with the Sauvignon, this plot is also situated within the Tenuta Lieben Aich in Terlan, 300 metres above sea level, facing south-west towards the mild air currents. But whilst Tannenberg aims for maximum minerality, Eichhorn seeks a balance between alpine clarity and Mediterranean richness. Here, Pinot Bianco – known as "Weißburgunder" to South Tyroleans – matures into a variety that oscillates between restraint and expression. Following a damp spring and a hot summer, 2024 brought that golden autumn which allowed the grapes to reach perfect physiological ripeness. The grapes were hand-harvested at the end of September, striking an ideal balance between ripeness, freshness and moderate alcohol content – a vintage that combines a cool character with ripe fruit. The yield was 50 hectolitres per hectare. The destemmed berries remain in the press for eight hours for maceration – a shorter time than for Sauvignons, as Pinot Blanc handles structure more subtly. Spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts in wooden barrels, followed by nine months' ageing on the fine lees.