Organic White Wine

Verso l'alto – upwards. The name reveals the philosophy behind this Pinot Bianco, which is the result of the tension between two fundamentally different worlds. On the one hand, the Bassa Atesina near Salorno and Magrè: calcareous soils, Mediterranean warmth, vines on both banks of the Adige. On the other, Dorf Tirol near Meran: volcanic rock, alpine climate, a completely different energy. Alois Clemens Lageder, sixth generation at Tòr Löwengang, calls such wines "compositions" – deliberate arrangements of contrasts that only develop their full tension when they interact.

The Lageder family now only makes one Sauvignon Bianco, and it belongs to the "Compositions" line. It gets its complexity from the wide variety of different clones in the vineyards. The majority of these are situated at an altitude of over 400 metres and are based on limestone soil on the one hand and volcanic weathered rock on the other. The different source rocks and the variety of vines led the Lageders to name the wine. This is because it consists of fragments from the best organic and biodynamic vineyards, which are married to form a whole. Its salinity and crisp freshness are highly drinkable and make this fresh and sublime South Tyrolean Sauvignon Blanc a very special experience. SUPERIORE.DE

For decades, the Porer vineyard on the Margreider Schuttkegel has been the source of Lageder's most refined interpretation of Pinot Grigio. Grapes of exceptional complexity ripen between 230 and 240 metres, where stony, sandy and highly calcareous soil with dramatic day-night temperature fluctuations creates a unique microclimate. The organic cultivation of this single vineyard follows strict principles of sustainability. The secret of Porer lies in its three-part vinification: one third is pressed immediately, another part remains on the skins for 15 hours, while the last component macerates with stems and skins for up to eight months. This orchestrated composition of different textures gives the wine its characteristic tension. Six months of ageing on the fine lees in stainless steel round off the complex flavour profile.

Campinovi tells the story of the Tuscan terroir from an unusual perspective: pure Trebbiano Toscano, to which Dievole adds a surprising dimension through twelve months of ageing in large, unroasted oak barrels made from Italian rovere and chestnut wood. The grapes grow at an altitude of 300 metres in organically cultivated vineyards, where sandy loam soils with gravel provide a distinctive minerality. Spontaneous fermentation in cement vats at a controlled 18°C preserves the natural freshness, while the subsequent barrel ageing gives the wine its characteristic complexity.

The name Gaun takes us back to the 17th century, when the noble family of the same name owned the Löwengang estate – a tribute to the historical roots of Lageder's ancestral home. Since 1934, when Alois III planted the first Chardonnay vines in Margreid, this interpretation has been considered a pioneer for international grape varieties in South Tyrol. The chalky gravel soils around Margreid, Kurtatsch and Salurn, where Mediterranean influences meet Alpine coolness, produce grapes of exceptional minerality. During vinification, Lageder focusses on salinity and tension: part of the wine is fermented spontaneously with whole grapes, whereby tannins from the skins and stems accentuate the natural freshness.

On the sand – the name already reveals the secret of this extraordinary interpretation of Gewürztraminer. A work of art of aromatic perfection springs from the sandy, calcareous soils of various locations in the lowlands between 240 and 370 metres. From Tramin to the Margreider Schuttkegel to Lake Kaltern and the Eisack Valley, Lageder combines the many facets of this traditional grape variety into a harmonious composition. The biodynamic Demeter cultivation of these selected plots follows the natural rhythms of the landscape. The secret lies in the staggered harvest: As the southern sites are all very hot, Lageder deliberately sets early accents and harvests the grapes at different stages of ripeness – sometimes even with noble rot. One part is vinified spontaneously with whole grapes, the rest matures for nine months partly in stainless steel and partly in large wooden barrels on the fine lees.

Carricante from Planeta's Etna vineyard is an exceptional wine full of freshness, energy and minerality. This noble grape variety thrives in exclusive conditions, on volcanic soils and at altitudes of 870 metres. A wonderfully complex pleasure that is only ever released for sale two years after the harvest. The eruption of 1614 is legendary in the history of Etna, as it lasted ten years, making it the longest recorded eruption of the active volcano to date. A very impressive and fitting name for Planeta's Etna series of equally impressive wines. SUPERIORE.DE

Fórra, an elegant small-batch white wine, is made purely from Manzoni Bianco and has an interesting history and an exciting development. Lageder's project with this grape variety began several years ago and resulted in the crossing of Rhine Riesling and Pinot Bianco. Traditional methods were used in the cellar to ensure freshness and vibrancy. Contact with the skins over several days sharpens the profile of the wine. After spontaneous fermentation, Fórra remains on its lees in wooden barrels for several months. Fórra exudes all this passion and love, all this experience and craftsmanship - a wonderful, great pleasure. SUPERIORE.DE

The quality of Italian white wines has risen sharply in the last 20 years, and this also applies to Verdicchio. There are still quite a few bad old-fashioned wines, but the good ones can be a revelation. The region around Matelica in particular has made Verdicchio famous, as the best representatives of its type come from here - and mostly from the higher vineyards: complex, mineral, fresh and long-lasting.

In Liguria, the question of whether Pigato and Vermentino are the same grape variety is answered with a Ligurian shoulder movement. Bruna cultivates both, appreciates both and gives each its own space. Vermentino grows in Valle Arroscia on loose, stony soil made from weathered sedimentary rock – lighter and more permeable than the Pigato plots, aromatic earlier, with a characteristic saltiness. 100% Vermentino, hand-picked, gentle pressing, fermentation in steel at a controlled temperature, short bottle ageing.

A small marvel, perfectly harmonised with multi-layered aromas of tropical fruits, apples and honey. A highly interesting white natural wine that is far more than just a casual pleasure, as it offers an extremely full, well-structured flavour. Fermented with the skins using the red wine method. Strong yellow colour with golden reflections. Intense aroma of dried herbs, incense, candied lemon peel and a hint of bitter orange. Fresh citrus notes on the palate, an exciting acidity and a powerful structure lead into a very long finish, crowned by a hint of bitter almonds. Very complex and a wonderful accompaniment to food – be sure to aerate! SUPERIORE.DE

Etna Bianco is smoky in the glass and excites the senses with a burst of crushed rock and raw almonds before fading into a citrus-influenced peach. It is pleasantly soft and enveloping, with weighty textures supported by lively acidity. Mineral fruits and sweet spices meet on the palate. Finishes remarkably fresh yet grippy and long, leaving the mouth wanting more. The complexity of this wine is unrivalled for an entry-level Etna Bianco. SUPERIORE.DE

Pietrabianca offers a contrast between richness and freshness and seduces with a blend of white flowers, almond paste, wet stone and crushed red pears. Silky and supple, it caresses the palate with an elegant wave of ripe peach and nectarine. Lingers long, leaving a mineral and acidic tension as notes of candied lime fade. Not only is it stunning today, but it has a bright future. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes come mainly from the historic Russeghine vineyard above the town of Ranzo Borgo. The character of the Pigato here is of particular depth and minerality, which is due to the exceptional terroir and the long maturation on the fine lees. Bright straw yellow in colour with light green reflections. Fragrant nose of herbs, yellow fruit and traces of pine resin. Full and long-lasting flavour with beautiful spiciness and aromas of citrus and almond, then again this beguiling, deep minerality at the end. SUPERIORE.DE

Famous, single-varietal Fiano from calcareous, clayey-sandy soils in the Contrada Dispensa near Menfi. Bright straw yellow in colour with a greenish tinge. The bouquet is complex and full of finesse: white flowers, Williams pear, ripe citrus fruit and a hint of exotic notes such as passion fruit and guava, underpinned by a salty, almost chalky nuance. Silky and broad on the palate, with polished fruit, lively acidity and a cool minerality. The texture appears creamy, but remains clearly contoured and convincingly expresses its origin.

Exciting, balsamic, white cuvée from Vermentino, Trebbiano and Malvasia - with a handful of Traminer and Riesling. Initially reductive on the nose, then dark yellow fruit, some smoke. Very direct, straightforward and grippingly mineral on the palate, with crisp acidity, citrus zest and fine juicy yellow fruit. Lingers on the palate for a long time and, with its race and alpine freshness, makes you briefly forget that this linear and very concise white wine comes from Tuscany. SUPERIORE.DE

Le Rive: the steep slope. In Venetian dialect, this term describes those rugged, 45-degree south-facing slopes where only the bravest winegrowers cultivate their most precious grapes. Since 1992, the Tessari family has been harvesting their most overripe Garganega grapes from ancient vines on a single hectare in the UGA Fittà – only at the end of October, when the first mists of autumn drift over the hills. What happens in these steep rows is natural alchemy: Garganega "surmatura", overripe and concentrated by months of sunshine, develops a golden complexity that few wines in the world can match. 20 days of fermentation in large French oak barrels, 15 months on the lees without a single racking, then a further 12 months of bottle ageing. Patience as a craft.

Pithos Bianco is a great orange wine from the amphora made from 100 per cent Grecanico, fermented entirely on the skins. Complex bouquet of apple, pear, honey, mint and a hint of rosemary. Even young with lots of ripe fruit and spice, a little salt, with beautiful depth and purity in the interesting, persistent flavour. Very good ageing and maturation potential. Be sure to aerate sufficiently before drinking! SUPERIORE.DE

Giovanni Manetti's white exotic wine from the legendary Conca d'Oro in Panzano: "È per divertirmi", something for your own pleasure, as the patron of Fontodi likes to say with a grin. While his Sangiovese wines enjoy worldwide fame, one of the most beautiful Tuscan white wine rarities is made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc from the La Rota vineyards. The north-west facing plot has been strategically chosen: Here, the vegetation grows more slowly and the grapes are spared the intense summer heat of Tuscany. This organically certified rarity is produced in only 8,000 bottles per year. After manual harvesting, temperature-controlled fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks, with part of the wine being vinified in amphorae and untoasted barrels. The six-month maturation on the lees in steel tanks preserves the wine's characteristic purity and freshness.

Animalucente consists mainly of Carricante from 70-100 year old vines, some of which are still ungrafted. Shiny, ethereal and extravagant in the glass, the bright colour is reminiscent of a lava flow in a wild and romantic setting. The palate is extremely flavoursome, vertical, with a tangy acidity and creaminess that makes you want to drink the next glass. Animalucente is a strong, forward and very authentic Etna wine and the perfect fusion of heaven and earth. SUPERIORE.DE

Capezzana's Trebbiano blossoms in the glass with a sweet floral bouquet of crushed yellow apples, peaches, aniseed, sweet sage and dusty stone. It is round and supple, with a depth of ripe white stone fruit perfectly contrasted by salty minerals and a hint of spice. The fresh acidity provides a nice balance. The finish is long, classically dry and youthfully tense. Already wonderful today, but still needs further bottle ageing to fully develop. SUPERIORE.DE

A white pioneer in Tuscany: in 1987, Avignonesi was the first winery in the region to create a barrique-aged white wine and named it after the stone lion in front of the palazzo in Montepulciano – symbolising wisdom and strength. Today, Virginie Saverys continues this tradition with biodynamic precision and vinifies the Chardonnay from Cortona using the pied-de-cuve method: 81% is matured in French barriques, 19% in cement barrels, in each case for at least five months on the fine lees.