Nerello

There are wines that exist and those that are virtually unavailable. Piano delle Colombe belongs to the second category – a "phantom wine" made from 750 bottles, a myth made of glass and time, a dream that only materialises for a select few. In the most sublime parcel of the prestigious Contrada San Lorenzo, on just 4,000 square metres of volcanic soil, Giuseppe Russo has created a wine that blurs the boundaries between reality and legend. The name tells a story that is as poetic as the wine itself: Girolamo, Giuseppe's father, claimed with a mischievous smile that the pigeons – "colombe" – always came to this small, flat area of the contrada to steal the very best grapes. "They have better taste than we do," he used to say as he watched the little thieves make their selection among the ancient Alberello vines. What began as a family anecdote became the name of a wine that is now one of the most sought-after treasures in the whole of Etna.

The pure, autochthonous Nerello Mascalese from over 100-year-old (ungrafted) vines in Contrada Rampante on the northern slopes of Mount Etna at an altitude of 950 metres starts with a sparkling ruby-garnet colour and impressively adds a captivating raspberry aroma, followed by fine spicy notes (ginger, allspice, clove). Compact, dense, fully fruity, tannic on the palate, yet always extremely relaxed, elegant and supple. Traces of salt and flint on the finish. Just over 2,000 bottles of this masterpiece are produced every year. SUPERIORE.DE

In the upper areas of the historic Contrada Rovittello – at an altitude of around 700 metres, on volcanic rock with a high basalt content – the old Nerello Mascalese vines of Il Musmeci take root. Some of them are even over 100 years old, their roots penetrating deep into the barren, mineral-rich soil. The north-eastern flank of Mount Etna provides a cool microclimate with a strong contrast between day and night – decisive for the aromatic precision. The name Il Musmeci is a tribute to the former owner of the parcel, Cav. Santi Musmeci, whose respect for terroir and tradition became the legacy of this wine.

Five years of patience for a moment in a glass. When Donnafugata and Dolce&Gabbana decided to crown their Sicilian congeniality with a sparkling wine in 2019, they knew that a Metodo Classico of this calibre needed time. The grapes – exclusively Nerello Mascalese from the slopes of Mount Etna – were harvested in the autumn, when nobody could have guessed how long the journey would take. 36 months on the lees, another two years of waiting. Release in spring 2025.

Contrada Sciaranuova Vecchie Vigne is the most concentrated, broodingvoice from the Sciaranuova vineyard - a Nerello Mascalese from vines over 80 years old, grown at an altitude of 730 metres on the northern flank of Mount Etna. The ungrafted vines stand in an amphitheatre of dark, sandy volcanic ash, interspersed with basalt rock and characterised by enormous day-night amplitude. The 2019 vintage was one of the most balanced of the decade: a rainy spring was followed by a moderately warm summer and a dry autumn, which allowed for a late, very differentiated harvest.

Tasca got involved in Etna early on and the latest result of these years of experience are four new single vineyard wines from the Tascante estate: Contrada Rampante, Pianodario, Sciaranuova and Sciaranuova Vigna Vecchia (V.V.). The wines are delicate and profound, and despite their power, acidity and taut tannin, very elegant, finesse-rich and light-footed on the palate. Each of the four plots brings a slightly different style and personality to the wine - due to the altitude, soil composition and morphology of the historic lava flows. A high annual rainfall ensures that the soil has all the water it needs, and the temperature fluctuations between day and night support the aromatic diversity of the grapes and ultimately the ripening potential.