Montepulciano

The Abruzzo is Italy's greenest region. 36% of its area is protected – comprising three national parks, one regional park and over thirty nature reserves. Valle Reale lies precisely where the Gran Sasso in the north, the Majella in the south and the Sirente-Velino in the north-west meet. The Cerasuolo is produced from the same vineyards near Popoli and Capestrano that also yield the estate's great red wines – Demeter-certified, on stony soils with excellent drainage, swept by the cool winds from the mountain passes and characterised by marked day-night temperature variations. The grapes for the Rosato are harvested earlier than those for the Montepulciano rosso – deliberately so as to preserve the freshness of the acidity. In the cellar, only indigenous yeasts are used, activated using the pied-de-cuve method: no intervention unless absolutely necessary.

The owner, Leonardo Pinzolo, cultivates 52 hectares of biodynamically certified vineyards, spread across his family estates in Popoli and Capestrano. The soils here differ from those in the rest of Abruzzo. Combined with the vineyards' higher altitude and proximity to the Gran Sasso mountains, these wines have a decidedly cooler character than is usually found in Abruzzo. In the winery, fermentation takes place spontaneously and without temperature control. With the exception of a few single-vineyard wines, most wines are aged in stainless steel.

The name 'Spelt' is a reminder of the spelt that once grew on the hills where the vineyard and the village of Spoltore now stand; the village's name itself derives from this ancient cereal. Since 1990, the Di Properzio brothers have been cultivating their vineyards here using certified organic methods, convinced that true quality can only be achieved through respect for natural balances. The grapes come from around 20 hectares in the municipalities of Spoltore, San Valentino and Scafa, at altitudes of 150 to 400 metres on a south to south-west facing slope, on medium-heavy clay soils that lend the single-varietal Montepulciano its power and structure. Following cold maceration and around three weeks' fermentation in stainless-steel tanks, the wine matures for 16 months, partly in barriques and tonneaux, and partly in large Slavonian oak casks, followed by around a year in the bottle.

A wine with history, personality and depth of character: Centovie is the centrepiece of a long-term project at the organically farmed Tenuta Centovie near Roseto degli Abruzzi. The 35 hectares of vineyards on the southern slope near Montipagano, with a view of the Gran Sasso, produce elegant Montepulciano, among other things – equipped with traditional training systems (pergola in long tendone and short cordon training) and an optimal microclimate.

Centovie is coming together. After the Pecorino kicked things off, the Rosato followed – and finally, in 2015, the Montepulciano. The Bernetti family describes it as "a wine that did not exist before and which seeks no imitation". A personal, bespoke interpretation of a grape variety and a landscape. The estate lies 200 metres above Roseto degli Abruzzi, facing south-east, between the Gran Sasso and the Adriatic Sea. Clay-sandy limestone soil with an alluvial skeleton, organically farmed from day one. The Montepulciano is grown using two training systems: "Tendone" with long pruning and "Filare" with short spurs, at a density of 1,600 to 5,000 vines per hectare.

Garofoli was the first winery in the Marche region to venture the experiment of creating a Metodo Classico exclusively from Montepulciano grapes – a daring innovation that is now considered the jewel in the crown of the winery. Originating from the hills around Castelfidardo, the hand-picked Montepulciano grapes undergo careful vinification according to the classic method. The second fermentation takes place in the bottle, where the spumante matures on the yeasts for between 24 and 30 months – a period of silent transformation that gives it its characteristic creaminess and complexity. This limited production reflects Garofoli's commitment to quality over quantity.

A new name – and a real one: Garofoli rechristened its classic with the 2023 vintage. Not out of a marketing whim, but out of conviction. Piancarda "Blu" – the blue stands for the Adriatic Sea, which can almost always be seen from Monte Conero. The vineyard is located within the Monte Conero Nature Reserve, on calcareous-clay soils that give Montepulciano the depth that makes this grape variety on the coast of central Italy so unmistakable. 100% Montepulciano. Maceration for 8 to 10 days, followed by 15 months in large wooden barrels and 6 months in the bottle.

Zanna comes from old vineyards in the best locations around Controguerra. Temperature-controlled fermentation is followed by around two years of ageing in large oak barrels and barriques. Deep ruby red colour in the glass. Black cherry, dried plums, liquorice, leather, tobacco and spices on the nose. Dense on the palate, with ripe fruit, grippy tannins and a long, slightly balsamic finish. A Riserva with a classic style and great development potential. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1991, the personal and professional relationship between Gianni Masciarelli and his wife, Marina Cvetic, gave rise to the range that still bears their name today. The Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva is their best-selling wine, available in 55 countries, and has played a key role in strengthening the reputation of this grape variety worldwide – today it is regarded as one of its most recognisable and distinctive expressions. The grapes come from four distinct vineyard sites around San Martino sulla Marrucina, at an altitude of 400 metres: Colle di Paolo, Fonte Filippo, Schiavone and Colle Rosina, on medium-textured clay soil, trained using the Guyot system, with vines aged between 15 and 30 years.

In the heart of Abruzzo, where snow-capped mountains and the Adriatic Sea lie just thirty kilometres apart, lies the foundation of a small revolution: San Martino sulla Marrucina, the village where, in 1981, Gianni Masciarelli realised his dream of creating world-class wines from the indigenous grape varieties of his homeland. The "Gianni Masciarelli" wine, named after him, now embodies the vision that this charismatic pioneer developed following a formative summer in Champagne – Abruzzo wines that set international standards. The hand-picked Montepulciano grapes for this DOC classic come from the historic Cocciapazza vineyard in Loreto Aprutino, 250 metres above sea level on clay-limestone soils. Marina Cvetic, Gianni's partner in life and in wine, continued the Gianni line as a tribute to the visionary founder, who was the first to introduce the Guyot system and French barriques to Abruzzo.

Düsseldorf, ProWein, 1997: Two men meet between the trade fair stands and tasting zones: Stefano Inama, who has given Garganega white wines a new dignity in Soave, and Sabatino Di Properzio, who is in the process of leading Fattoria La Valentina out of the shadow of Abruzzese mass production. What begins as an industry skirmish turns into a friendship – and an idea that Inama formulates with a joke: "Montepulciano is the Barolo of the south. We should do something together." Sabatino's answer, without hesitation: "Facciamo." Three years later, the two buy a vineyard in San Valentino in Abruzzo Citeriore at a forced sale that nobody wants. 4.2 hectares at an altitude of 350 metres, completely south-facing, at the foot of the Majella National Park – and planted with an ancient Montepulciano clone that was abandoned long ago due to its low yields. The grapes form two-lobed panicles reminiscent of the silhouette of the African continent: the "Clone Africa". Small-berried, thick-skinned, with a concentration that more modern clones cannot match. The vines, now over fifty years old, are rooted in loamy mid-mountain soil under the traditional Abruzzese pergola – and yield just 45 quintals per hectare.

Bellovedere is one of La Valentina's iconic wines: Pure Montepulciano from the single vineyard of the same name in the Terre dei Vestini subzone, vinified only in exceptional vintages. 2021 was one such vintage: harmonious weather conditions with cool nights and a healthy harvest resulted in grapes with structure, depth and great aromatic balance. Fermentation takes place over 30 days in conical wooden fermenters, with ageing in a combination of barriques, tonneaux and cement – a finely balanced style between concentration and finesse.

The small 2-hectare Sant'Eusanio vineyard is located approximately 500 metres above sea level in the highest zone of the entire Valle-Reale area. What distinguishes this vineyard from the others in Popoli is its northern exposure and the temperature differences between day and night, which can reach the lowest temperatures in the valley. These factors lead to extreme microclimatic conditions under which the grapes of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Sant'Eusanio ripen, making it a unique wine. It is an uncompromising expression of Montepulciano from the mountains and speaks a dynamic language of acidity and freshness that contrasts sharply with the body and structure of the wines grown in the coastal zone of the region.

The Popoli vineyard bears witness to the fact that the Valle Reale plateau has been a wine-growing area since time immemorial. Several rows of this vineyard stretch out in front of the ruins of a cave cellar dating back to 1300. This is where the Benedictine monks from the monastery of San Benedetto in Perillis produced and stored their wine. The larger part of this very old site, where Montepulciano d'Abruzzo is cultivated, extends southwards towards the entrance to the valley.

The Montepulciano vines for this powerful and terroir-rich Montepulciano grow on the Campo San Giorgio vineyard at an altitude of about 150 m on deep, chalky clay soils. The wine is unfiltered and unfined and matures for 12 months in small and large wooden barrels. The label represents the historic design of the Rosso Conero of the 1970s and the impressive result is the calling card of a long family tradition and expertise in viticulture.

Pieluni is Illuminati's flagship wine - a single-varietal Montepulciano made from selected grapes from old vines in the highest parcels of the Colline Teramane. The exceptional 2017 vintage was characterised by heat, drought and low yields, but produced concentrated, healthy berries with a dense tannin structure. Fermentation was followed by careful ageing in new and used barriques for 24 months, followed by long bottle ageing.

In 1981, Gianni Masciarelli founded his winery in San Martino sulla Marrucina. Today, his daughter Miriam Lee Masciarelli continues the vinification and ageing of the flagship wine with passion and expertise – a continuity that lends this wine its special dignity. The estate itself describes this Montepulciano as majestic: an original, never predictable interpretation of Abruzzo's great indigenous grape variety, born of continuous research and a spirit of experimentation, both in the vineyard and in the cellar, and from a long study of Abruzzo's viticultural techniques and terroir. This wine has played a key role in rightfully establishing Montepulciano on the world map of viticulture.

Zanna comes from old vineyards in the best locations around Controguerra. Temperature-controlled fermentation is followed by around two years of ageing in large oak barrels and barriques. Deep ruby red colour in the glass. Black cherry, dried plums, liquorice, leather, tobacco and spices on the nose. Dense on the palate, with ripe fruit, grippy tannins and a long, slightly balsamic finish. A Riserva with a classic style and great development potential. SUPERIORE.DE

The extremely successful "Binomio" joint venture between Fattoria La Valentina and Azienda Agricola Inama is entering a new round. On the occasion of the 20th anniversary of the La Valentina winery, a new wine was born, which is only produced in the best vintages and in limited small editions.

The 4.5-hectare Convento (di Capestrano) vineyard is the youngest cru within the vineyards of the municipality of Capestrano. It extends over the higher part of the land where vines and vegetables were once grown and which belonged to the old convent of St Francis, which has stood on a hill overlooking the small village of Capestrano since the mid XV century. The microclimate, which is so different from that of the plateau, has two important consequences: A harvest that takes place on average two to three weeks earlier, depending on the year, and the result is a Montepulciano d'Abruzzo that stands out from the crus of other farms in terms of its vigour and concentration.

A monument from Montepulciano – and yet not a stylistic muscleman: Kurni is the expression of an uncompromising philosophy that aims for density, balance and expression rather than volume. The vines are deeply rooted in the clay-limestone soils of the southern Marche region, are meticulously tended and produce minimal yields. The hand-picked grapes undergo a long maceration period before the wine matures for 18 months in new French barriques.

Just 300 metres from Casa pepand yet a completely different world: Branella, 2 hectares acquired by Emidio pepin 1981 – a vineyard that had already been planted in 1966 and was registered in the 1984 land register. The south-western orientation differs from Casa pepdirect southern exposure, and while silt dominates there, Branella shows an extraordinary geological diversity within the plot: In the northern, higher part, classic "speckled" blue-toned marl, in the centre a pronounced sandy zone with a lower, almost neutral pH, underneath deeper deposits of clay and calcium carbonate. The sandier, cooler soils allow the roots to penetrate deeply, while the mottled lenses of precipitated limestone create a different perception of acidity and freshness. Chiara pepand geologist Brenna Quigley realised in their multi-year study that these terroir-related differences justify vinifying Branella as a wine in its own right – a wine that does not possess the exuberant power of Casa pep, but rather agility, precision and a faster rhythm.

Where the 2021 Branella was characterised by vigorous vegetative development and the saving summer rains, the 2022 shows the finesse and elegance of a vintage that has found exceptional refinement through later pruning and slower, controlled development. The sandier soils of Branella with their cooler temperatures, the speckled lenses of limestone that create different perceptions of acidity, and the deeper root systems that allow the vines to find nutrients even in difficult moments – all these factors come together in this vintage to create a wine that impresses not with its power, but with its precision, clarity and almost dancing lightness.