James Suckling | 95–100 Points

When Alessandro Mori and his young family moved into the dilapidated house on the northern walls of Montalcino in 1993, there was only one habitable room. The rest was decay and promise. Today, three decades later, Il Marroneto is a monument to what perseverance and conviction can create. The building itself dates back to the 13th century – a drying house for chestnuts (marroni) that once belonged to the nuns of the small Madonna delle Grazie chapel. Here they prepared bread for weary pilgrims on the Via Francigena. Alessandro still remembers the bells ringing over the vineyards of his childhood.

Complex and exotic bouquet of spices, black olive, rosemary, plum and cherry. Firm, compact and initially introverted on the palate, followed by mint, spices, dark red fruit, cassis and graphite. The flavours come to light rather in slices, with this outstanding red it is worth waiting like nowhere else to fully discover the depth and complexity of this Tuscan jewel. SUPERIORE.DE

Campo del Drago is a single vineyard of just 1.5 hectares and is located on a high plateau in the Montalcino appellation with a view of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The grapes from here are only vinified separately in the best years for the Brunello of the same name and the result is then eagerly awaited around 5 years later. Dark, concentrated colour with beautiful saturation and density. The bouquet reveals a unique minerality and complexity. The palate is intense, complex and deep. The tannins are present, but remain very elegant thanks to the Sangiovese acidity. Can still mature, but is already irresistible today. SUPERIORE.DE

It was Eugenio Campolmi who, in 1989, plucked up the courage to give his flagship the name of a wild herb that grows on the Tuscan coast. Eugenio Campolmi (†2002) was not originally from the world of wine. He came from a family of restaurateurs and should have taken over his parents' restaurant and trading business. Instead, he and his wife Cinzia Merli took a bold leap into the unknown in 1983. Paleo – a name that stands for unbending identity and the will to achieve any goal. What began as a classic Bordeaux blend found its true destiny in 2001: 100% Cabernet Franc, a revolution in the still young Bolgheri.

It was Eugenio Campolmi who, in 1989, plucked up the courage to give his flagship the name of a wild herb that grows on the Tuscan coast. Eugenio Campolmi (†2002) was not originally from the world of wine. He came from a family of restaurateurs and was supposed to take over his parents' restaurant and trading business. Instead, he and his wife Cinzia Merli took a bold leap into the unknown in 1983. Paleo – a name that stands for unbending identity and the will to achieve any goal. What began as a classic Bordeaux blend found its true destiny in 2001: 100% Cabernet Franc, a revolution in the still young Bolgheri.

On the terraced south and south-east slopes of the Conca d'Oro, a wine is created that is more than just a homage – it is the materialisation of a vision. D'Alceo bears the name of its creator, Alceo di Napoli, who in the early 1990s ventured an experiment on virgin, never before cultivated soil that was to become a legend. Where olive trees once stood and stables characterised the land, the terraced vineyards that Antonio Galloni describes as the embodiment of everything that makes these slopes of Panzano so extraordinary have been created to this day.

Only white wines from Milo, on the eastern flank of Mount Etna, are permitted to bear the "Superiore" designation. Giuseppe Benanti has been keen to demonstrate the potential of Carricante there since 1988. After two experimental vintages, 1990 was the first year the estate bottled a wine, and this wine was one of the first two it brought to market. The name of this wine evokes volcanic landscapes, flint, minerals and salty sea breezes. The vines are situated at an altitude of around 800 metres, facing east towards the Ionian Sea: old bush vines trained on chestnut stakes, on small terraces with dry stone walls made of lava rock, in mineral-rich volcanic soil. The wine comes from the uppermost part of the vineyard, where the altitude slows down ripening. It is damp and rainy; it snows in winter, the wind blows constantly, and there are significant differences between day and night. What ripens slowly there retains its acidity, freshness and delicate aromas.

Syrah Suisassi is rich and expressive. The bouquet is convincing with aromas of sage, rosemary, wild flowers, liquorice, violets and plums. On the palate very full and round with memories of berries, chocolate and nuts. Elegant and intellectual. SUPERIORE.DE

The purchase of the Mosconi Cru parcels in Monforte by Pio Boffa is one of the last major decisions taken by the estate – with the aim of complementing the depth of Serralunga (Ornato) with Monforte gravity. Selective hand-picking; separate fermentation in stainless steel with a carefully extended maceration period, malolactic without haste. Classic ageing in large barrels, moderate proportion of French oak as a fine brushstroke of texture. The 2020 vintage fitted in well with the concept: a stable summer, clear nights for ripening and precise harvest – healthy, ripe harvest, polished phenolics and generous, balanced fruit were the result.

Mosconi 2021 comes from one of the most renowned crus of Monforte d'Alba – a site known for its brooding, clay-limestone soils and south-westerly exposure. The terroir here gives the Nebbiolo particular depth, warmth and structural density. The 2021 vintage was almost ideal in the Langhe: a cool, slow start to the growing season, followed by a stable summer without heat stress and a dry, sunny autumn created perfect conditions for the grapes to ripen slowly with high aromatic complexity and finely polished tannins.

High above Sambuca Val di Pesa, just three kilometres south of the famous Tenuta Tignanello, rises the venerable Abbey of San Michele Arcangelo – a bastion of faith since the 10th century, where Giovanni Gualberto, the founder of the Vallombrosan order, once lived and died. Here, where wine of exceptional quality was already appreciated around the year 1000, only the finest Sangiovese grapes thrive on calcareous soils with a clay content at an altitude of 300 metres. The historical importance of this place is documented in hundreds of volumes in the Florentine state archives – centuries of Sangiovese cultivation and rural life, preserved for eternity.

With the Bòggina B, Petrolo revived an almost forgotten tradition in 2014: the great white wine of the Valdarno, as Tuscany had known it for centuries before red wine came to dominate the region. The wine takes its name from the Bòggina vineyard, where the first Trebbiano vines were planted in the 1970s; below this vineyard, the family has since replanted with the same original clones to secure the stock for decades to come. The 2024 vintage comes from certified organic cultivation, harvested by hand into crates and sorted on the sorting table. Spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts in tonneaux, it matures for over 15 months on the fine lees in specially selected French oak barrels, with bâtonnage that is constant at first and gradually tapers off – the wine remains unfiltered and undisturbed until bottling.

Viettis Barolo Riserva with grapes from Castiglione Falletto is matured for two years in large wooden barrels, then in steel tanks and then for several years in the bottle. Classic bouquet of wild berries, cherries and rose petals. Rusty minerals are accompanied by violets and candied orange peel. Juicy on the palate and extremely fresh and agile for its age, with wonderful balance and equilibrium. An inspiring wine that still has many good years ahead of it, but is already completely convincing today. SUPERIORE.DE

Marco Bacci's Brunello Riserva from the dream vintage 2016 presents itself full and generous on the nose. Cascades of violet and black fruits wash over the senses with black cherry, blackberry jam and smoked tobacco. The opulent overall impression is completed with a hint of bitter almond and subtle notes of smoke and nuts. These give the wine a deep and dark character. Very well structured on the palate and built for a long life with its well-formed acid-tannin framework. SUPERIORE.DE

In Andrea Cortonesi's own words, 2019 was the first vintage since the legendary 1990 that gave him the feeling that everything was in balance. A slow start to vegetation after a rainy winter, a summer without heat peaks, even ripening until September. Harvest from 25 September – clean, healthy, concentrated. Already a stroke of luck for the Annata. For the Riserva: a perfect invitation. But not every vintage becomes a Riserva. And not every grape in the best vintage. Cortonesi only uses the oldest vines for the Riserva – planted in 1975, back when the word Brunello was hardly known outside Montalcino. Seven hectares, spread over sites between 150 and 350 metres in Castelnuovo dell'Abate, calcareous-clayey soils with marl and mineral structure. What grows here has decades of life in it.

Since the 2013 vintage, Luciano Sandrone's grandchildren have had their names featured on the label: ALESTE, a combination of Alessia and Stefano. The wine itself is older. As Barolo Cannubi Boschis, it was Luciano Sandrone's first wine, with the inaugural vintage dating from 1985. The vineyard is situated in the village of Barolo on a south-east-facing section of the Cannubi hill, at an altitude of 250 metres, in moderately compact marl soil. In the cellar, the must ferments spontaneously with natural yeasts in open stainless-steel tanks; malolactic fermentation and ageing follow in LitersFrench oak tonneaux, with 18 months' bottle ageing before release. The 2022 vintage is characterised by resilience: a dry autumn, early snow in December, 70 to 80 millimetres of rain within a few days in spring, followed by warm, dry weather with cool nights. The harvest took place around two weeks earlier than usual.

Vintage Tunina is predominantly made from Sauvignon and Chardonnay. There are also small amounts of Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana and Picolit. Bright golden yellow in colour, the intense, very elegant bouquet shows notes of honey and meadow flowers. Dry, soft, very fruity flavour with excellent persistence, fine spiciness and full body. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1977, at a time when the term "terroir" was virtually unknown in Montalcino and little attention was paid to the concept of zoning, Caparzo produced the first vintage of this wine. Its name derives from the farm where the farm labourers who worked for the owners of the nearby Palazzo Montosoli once lived. With "La Casa", Caparzo was once again a pioneer: one of the first single-vineyard Brunellos in the entire appellation, from one of Montalcino's most privileged vineyards. And this wine marks a second milestone: Caparzo was among the first wineries to introduce barrique barrels to Montalcino, thereby creating a wine of a gentle, elegant character. The five-hectare vineyard is situated on Montosoli hill, 275 metres above sea level, with a south-southeast-facing aspect. Montosoli is not a large hill, but its slightly greater altitude protects it from both mist and late frosts – a decisive advantage in this northern sector of the appellation, which has cooler average temperatures than other areas. The soil is schist-clay, known locally as "galestro", and is well-drained; the site enjoys an exceptional amount of sunshine.

Spineda is an exceptional Merlot selection produced in honour of the Treviso family that began developing the Venegazzù area in the 1500s, where the very first Merlot was cultivated in Italy. The grapes come from a 2-hectare plot which, thanks to its soil and location, careful soil cultivation and extremely low yields, produces fruit of exceptional elegance. The label is a reminder of the deep connection with the territory and shows a section of a 19th century Napoleonic map of the Spineda lands with the vineyards and the rustic outbuildings that are still an integral part and centrepiece of the Conte Loredan Gasparini winery today.

Caparzo's La Casa vineyard, located in an enviable position on the hill of Montosoli, has been vinified separately since 1977 and is one of the first single-vineyard bottlings in Montalcino. Like the normal Brunello, La Casa has a surprising underlying acidity that gives the wine brightness and focus, and the northern exposure of the parcel has certainly played a role in this.

Pomegranates and vines both originate from the same Mediterranean region and often grow side by side, so the name is fitting for a Teroldego of exceptional depth. Its home is the Campo Rotaliano, a 400-hectare triangle where the Noce flows into the Adige, surrounded by rock faces that reflect the sun's heat. The soil is flat and barren, allowing water to drain away quickly. In 1984, Elisabetta Foradori ventured to produce her first vintage; the estate had been in the family since 1939, and today her children Emilio, Theo and Myrtha work alongside her. The estate has been using biodynamic preparations since 2002 and has been Demeter-certified since 2009. Granato is grown on four hectares, spread across three plots with old pergola vines growing on gravel and stones. It ferments in large open vats and matures for 15 months in tonneaux. At the estate, the 2023 harvest runs from 26 August to 2 October.

Gambero Rosso named the Giodo Brunello 2020 "The best red wine in Italy in 2026", and the reasoning reads like a silent tribute: "The sum of his experience with Sangiovese, his first love." His daughter Bianca Ferrini added what is behind the wine: "It is the first vintage in the new cellar, the first chapter together with my father."

The grapes for Vietti's Riserva come from the best Barolo vineyards, primarily Scarrone and Bric del Fiasc. The production is just 5,000 bottles. Opens with aromas of dried cherries, which combine with sweet spices, while a hint of truffle, dried violets and bay leaf emerge. On the palate, there is a beguiling elegance and depth with perfectly developed fruit flavours and melting tannins. The great thing is that you can drink this wine the same day you buy it. But you don't have to, because the potential is great! SUPERIORE.DE

After decades at Marcarini, Elvio Cogno bought his own estate in Novello in 1990, right in the heart of Ravera. A year later, the family planted a new vineyard, and in the same year he became a grandfather. The vines were named after the little girl: Elena, daughter of Nadia and Valter Fissore. To this day, the label features a chick that Elena drew herself when she was three years old. It would be hard to fit any more of her personal touch onto a bottle. Only the Nebbiolo clone "Rosé" was planted, chosen for its vibrant garnet-red colour and intense floral aromas.