James Suckling | 95–100 Points

The Vigna Sorì Ginestra cru parcel stands proudly overlooking the rolling hills of Monforte d'Alba – one of the vineyards on which Conterno Fantino bases his entire winemaking art, true to the motto: "Il Barolo è il vino che ha fatto la nostra storia." (Barolo is the wine that made our history). The 2021 vintage, widely celebrated as one of the best of the decade, brought ideal conditions: a balanced ripening climate, cool nights paired with sun-drenched days. Hand-picking was carried out in mid-October – carefully selected, absolutely ripe. The ageing – around 24 months in French oak – was carefully chosen to anchor depth and elegance without masking the typical freshness of this unique Ginestra site.

Monforte d'Alba lies in the southern Barolo region, where the soils become heavier, richer in clay and higher in iron content. Those who grow Nebbiolo here produce a different wine to that made to the north and east – one that is more structured, darker and possesses a density that takes time to develop. In 2009, Chiara Boschis purchased a plot in the MGA Mosconi – the most recent addition to the estate's portfolio, and the one with the most intense character. 1.9 hectares at an altitude of 370 to 400 metres, south-facing. The soils are of Helvetic origin – calcareous clay-marl layers in a characteristic grey to slightly warm pink hue, depending on where calcium carbonate and iron shift the composition. In some places, these layers take on a reddish hue, tinged with iron and interspersed with pebbles. It is a soil that lends substance to the Nebbiolo, demands long ageing and produces a kind of vinous power that does not arise in this way in lighter soils. Chiara Boschis was the first Oenologist to obtain organic certification in Barolo. Today she works alongside her brother Giorgio – and the Mosconi bears the hallmark of both.

When you hear the story of the effort that went into the Colonia vineyard, you have to wonder if the fine people of Fèlsina are absolutely crazy. It took them two years to remove the imposing rock that had forced previous generations of the Poggiali family to virtually abandon this noble site. But it is thanks to the ambitious Giovanni Poggiali that this spectacular vineyard (Vigneto Colonia) became what it is today. It has reddish-brown soils, is rich in magnesium and iron, and is thus quite different from all other Fèlsina sites.

Deep in the south-east of Monforte d'Alba is the historic Mosconi vineyard, whose reputation was already recognised by experts in the 19th century. It is one of the oldest known cru parcels in the Barolo region and was noted in early vineyard maps of the region as being particularly suitable for long-lasting, full-bodied wines. Its steep, south-west facing slopes have always been known for concentrated, powerful Nebbiolo wines. On a subsoil of compact, calcareous marl, criss-crossed by iron-rich veins, the vines are deeply rooted – a terroir that gives the grapes structure, warmth and distinctive flavour. The 2021 vintage showed its best face here: sunny days and cool nights ensured slow, complete ripening, while a dry autumn made hand-picking possible under ideal conditions. The grapes arrived in the cellar in perfect health, where they were vinified with respect for their origin. Around 24 months of ageing in French oak polished the structure without overshadowing the clear fruit character.

1,900 bottles of this 0.8-hectare Cabernet Franc single vineyard "Campo di Tenaglia" (at an altitude of approx. 550 metres, mainly limestone) are sold worldwide in specialist shops and on the menus of the best restaurants. An impenetrable, dark-coloured wine with a bouquet of flint, crushed minerals and some chalk. The texture is rich and opulent, but always supple with a hint of minerality. Campo di Tenaglia is one of the juiciest Cabernet Francs we have ever had in our glass. Wonderful, long final and certainly great Storage potential. SUPERIORE.DE

The Magistra Brunello was vinified for the second time in 2019. Produced in a small edition of just over 1,000 bottles, it is the estate's new flagship wine. It is an extremely rigorous selection of the best grapes from the small Magistra vineyard, which is located south of Montalcino at around 400 metres above sea level. The vines are surrounded by a holm oak forest, which benefits from exposure with night-time ventilation from the Orcia Valley. This favours the development of the aromas, which are noticeable in the intense Sangiovese bouquet of crushed sour cherries, spiced blood oranges, minty herbs and a hint of sweet smoke. Silky yet lively on the palate, driven by a lively acidity that effortlessly carries the mineral fruit of the red berries across the palate together with the polished tannins. A gem of a wine! SUPERIORE.DE

Testamatta means something like "crazy in the head" and this name sums it up perfectly. When you know the mad obsession with which Bibi Graetz pursues viticulture on the island of Giglio, you no longer have to wonder about the terrificand highly personalised results that Bibi has been bottling for years. This was preceded by several years of experimentation, research and a lot of hard work until the best of the over 100-year-old Ansonica vines from the rocky Serrone vineyard were finally identified.

This is more than a wine – it is the essence of a project born in 1999 with the vision of showing the world the finest that Bolgheri is capable of producing. From five selected vineyard sites between 80 and 220 metres above sea level – argentiera, Ginestre, Ventaglio, Porcarecce and Ceccosodo – a cuvée has emerged that has been a contemporary symbol of Italian winemaking since its debut vintage in 2003. The 2021 vintage is the culmination of an extraordinary era: 48% Merlot is combined with 45% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Cabernet Franc to create a Bordeaux-inspired masterpiece that nevertheless breathes an unmistakable Tuscan soul. Sourced from the Tenuta's best plots, where sandy, calcareous and stony soils thrive between Mediterranean scrub and the salty tang of the Tyrrhenian Sea, each grape embodies the unique terroir identity of this privileged location.

Testamatta means something like "crazy in the head" and this name sums it up perfectly. When you know the crazy obsession with which Bibi Graetz pursues viticulture on the island of Giglio, you no longer have to wonder about the terrificand highly personalised results that Bibi has been bottling for years. This was preceded by several years of experimentation, research and a lot of hard work until the best of the over 100-year-old Ansonica vines in the rocky Serrone vineyard were finally identified. harvest is carried out exclusively by hand and each grape is meticulously selected according to quality and ripeness, which then finds its way to the wine cellar on the island. After destemming and gentle pressing under dry ice, the grapes are left to macerate for 48 hours at a low temperature before being transferred unfiltered to 225-litre barriques for fermentation, where the wine then matures for a further 12 months.

Where the sun sets – right where the light last touches the steep hillside plot before sinking behind the contours of the Val d'Orcia – lies Campo di Tenaglia. This vineyard covers just eight tenths of a hectare at an altitude of 500 metres, yet what grows here on rugged limestone and coarse, sandy soil possesses an intensity that stands out even amongst Trinoro's crus. The soil extends to a depth of over two metres; the roots of the Cabernet Franc vines, which are over 25 years old, reach down into the mineral, skeletal layers – and lend the wine its powerful character. Tenaglia embodies tension.

Black as night – that is how Andrea Franchetti himself described this wine when it was vinified separately for the first time in 2014. Campo di Camagi represents the extreme opposite in Trinoro's Cabernet Franc trilogy: whilst Magnacosta soars and Tenaglia stretches, Camagi is dense. One and a half hectares at an altitude of 550 metres, a flat, stony soil of crushed quartz and limestone – hardly any humus, hardly any depth. The vines, over 27 years old, fight for every centimetre; their roots penetrate the hard layer, filling the limited space completely. This struggle for space, this competition in the soil, manifests itself in the wine: concentration, density, weight. Twelve months in stainless steel tanks, eight months in barriques, a further twelve months in concrete – a vinification process that gives the wine time to organise its power without taming it.

Gabbro in a small edition of just 2,500 bottles each year is the essence of Montepeloso's noblest Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, the vines are over 40 years old. Impressively complex bouquet of dark fruits, smoke and grilled vegetables. Reveals its pedigree and great class on the palate, powerful and muscular. Exquisite, complex, nuanced, persistent, long ... Gabbro truly offers everything that belongs to an unforgettable wine experience at world-class Cabernet level. SUPERIORE.DE

Strong ruby red. Opulent aromas of dark berries, mint, spices, forest floor and undergrowth. In the balanced, powerful drink very clear, juicy and tight. Spreads comfortably with notes of plum, raspberry compote and chocolate. This great Amarone captivates from the first sip - its long, silky finish leaves nothing to be desired. SUPERIORE.DE

Franchetti Rosso is Passopisciaro's flagship wine and a stunningly perfect wine. The grapes come from 1000-metre-high northern Etna vineyard sites, where the soils are ash and pumice. Franchetti is a ripe, exotic wine that envelops the palate with dark fruit. Refined tannins support the fruit, while an intense inner sweetness adds elegance and finesse. A thoroughly outstanding drop. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for this top Chardonnay come from clayey limestone soils interspersed with angular white dolomite rock. Intense straw yellow in colour with greenish reflections. The aroma is complex, characterised by exotic fruit, white pepper and a delicate spicy note. Voluminous, enveloping and engaging on the palate, with a powerful structure and a juicy, very harmonious acidity. The final is almost endless, a very great Chardonnay from South Tyrol. SUPERIORE.DE

Gigliola Giannetti was born at the Argiano vineyard, the daughter of a cellar worker. She grew up amongst the barrels and vines; the scent of fermenting must was the scent of her childhood. At the age of 19, she went to work for Franco Biondi Santi; later, Giulio Gambelli encouraged her to make her own wine. In 1993, the time had come: her first plot of land, her first child – her daughter Viola. Three years later, she acquired a further two hectares and welcomed her daughter Sofia. Today, three women work together in the cellar, representing three generations of Montalcino in a single line. Le Potazzine is one of the highest-altitude estates in the appellation: 450 to 530 metres, where the harvest begins up to three weeks later than in the valley. What was once considered a disadvantage is now worth its weight in gold – the grapes ripen slowly, retain their acidity and develop finesse rather than mere power. The winemaking process is uncompromisingly traditional: spontaneous fermentation, 30 to 45 days' maceration, no temperature control. The wine then rests for 42 months in large Slavonian oak barrels – six months longer than is even required for a Riserva. Every Brunello from Le Potazzine is therefore, in fact, a Riserva. Why don’t they call it that? Modesty, or perhaps quiet pride.

Le Lucére is not a wine for coincidences. The plot – almost 2.5 hectares, east-facing, Galestro and slate, vines that have been rooted in this soil for more than a quarter of a century – only becomes a single-vineyard bottling under certain conditions. 2018 was such a year, although the world of Brunello experts initially reacted cautiously. Wrongly so. The eastern exposure of San Filippo is a quiet privilege for cooler years: no blazing afternoon sunshine that burns the fruit and hardens the tannins. Instead – morning light, slow ripening, precision. The vines did not suffer. They concentrated. Caciorgna vinified in steel, fermented in concrete, put the wine first in barrique and tonneau, then in large 20 to 30 hectolitre barrels. More than three years of ageing, one year in the bottle. The wine needed the time.

This is more than a wine – it is the essence of a project born in 1999 with the vision of showing the world the finest that Bolgheri is capable of producing. From five selected vineyard sites between 80 and 220 metres above sea level – argentiera, Ginestre, Ventaglio, Porcarecce and Ceccosodo – a cuvée is created that has been a contemporary symbol of Italian winemaking since its debut vintage in 2003. Sourced from the best plots of the Tenuta, where sandy, calcareous and stony soils thrive between Mediterranean scrub and the salty breeze of the Tyrrhenian Sea, each grape embodies the unique terroir identity of this privileged location.

The name is a nod to the old silver mines of the province of Livorno. The land on the southern edge of Castagneto Carducci once belonged to the Serristori, a noble Florentine family; today, it is home to 85 hectares of vines spread across four zones, the first of which were planted by the estate in 2000. The cellar is modelled on 16th-century Tuscan fortresses; from its terrace, the view stretches as far as the islands of the Tuscan Archipelago. The vineyards open out towards the sea like a shell, close to the water yet situated on some of the highest plots in the appellation. For this wine, they extend up to around 200 metres, on marl and claystone with interlayers of sandstone and siliceous rock; the rows face from north through west to south, with 7,500 vines and around 6,000 kilograms of grapes per hectare. The sea breeze blows all year round, and as the grapes ripen, the nights cool noticeably.

Barolo Ginestra Ciabot Mentin DOCG 2019 comes from one of Monforte's most prestigious parcels with a south-south-easterly exposure at an altitude of around 400 metres. The old Nebbiolo vines are deeply rooted in calcareous marl with veins of clay and sand, which gives the wine intensity and finesse. The 2019 vintage is considered one of the most classic of the last decade: long, balanced vegetation, mild summer heat and cool September nights produced grapes of rare aromatic precision. After being harvested by hand, the grapes were carefully vinified and matured in French oak for around 30 months.