James Suckling | 95–100 Points

Here it is, the impressive first Gran Selezione from Riecine, showing more grace than muscle and delivering a Riecine-typical and very precise Burgundian interpretation of the Sangiovese grape.

Some wines bear the name of their creator and thus a silent commitment. Gualto is Gualtiero Ghezzi's personal signature: a strict selection of the best exposed Sangiovese Grosso plots near the Castello, at an altitude of over 300 metres, from sandy limestone marl soils with fossil inclusions. Matured for 36 months in oak barrels and a further two years in the bottle – the fact that this Riserva is being released while 2020s are already on the shelves elsewhere is not an oversight, but an attitude. 2019 was the year that rewarded such patience. Spring rains created the water reserves for a warm but never excessive summer. A radiant September with large day-night fluctuations brought full phenolic ripeness – slowly and without haste. International critics are celebrating the 2019 Brunello vintage as one of the most important since 2010 and 2016.

It was in 1988 that Bruno and Brigitte Widmer dared to dream a bold dream that would change the world of Tuscan wine forever. Their Il Blu – named after the timeless blue label with its orange capsule – became an icon for an entire generation of Super Tuscans, a manifesto of modernity amidst centuries-old traditions. Today, after more than three decades of perfection, the certified organic Il Blu 2022 embodies Barbara Widmer's visionary continuity. What once began as a Sangiovese-dominated cuvée has evolved, thanks to the ever-increasing complexity of the Merlot vines from Radda – now over thirty years old – into a blend comprising 80% Merlot, with 10% each of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon.

In 1988, two worlds of wine came together in Serdiana. Mariano Murru, the estate's cellar master, collaborated with Giacomo Tachis, the Oenologistwho had helped shape Sassicaia, Tignanello, Solaia and Guado al Tasso, and was thus one of the most influential figures in the Italian wine renaissance. What emerged from this encounter was not an attempt to mould Sardinia in the Tuscan image, but quite the opposite: a wine made exclusively from indigenous Sardinian grape varieties, yet one capable of holding its own on the international stage. Antonio Argiolas, born in 1906 and who lived to be over a hundred, never tiring of taking on new challenges, shared this vision with his sons Franco and Giuseppe in the 1980s. Following the first harvest in 1988, Turriga took its time: it was not until 1991 that it was presented to connoisseurs. The journalist Benedetto Ferrara later wrote in La Repubblica that this wine had legitimised Sardinian red wine in the eyes of the world.

Within the walls of history. The Castello di Bolgheri, built in 1796 and thus the oldest winery in Bolgheri, sits enthroned in the heart of the medieval village like a stone witness to great wine culture. While the world of wine underwent its revolutionary transformation around the Castello – sassicaia and Ornellaia wrote their legendary stories –a treasure lay dormant here that only awoke to its true destiny under Count Federico Zileri Dal Verme. The blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc and 5% Merlot not only represents the art of blending, but also the philosophy of the house: finesse over power, elegance over opulence. While the best parcels of Cabernet Sauvignon underwent an exceptionally long maceration of 30 days – only possible in exceptional vintages –the wine matured for 20 months in traditional Italian vats and Liters barrels. This choice of large wooden barrels, a deliberate departure from the small barriques of its neighbours, gives the wine the crystalline purity and mineral depth that makes the Castello the "Château Margaux of Bolgheri".

The small vineyard is located at an altitude of 500 m above the Galatrona Tower and offers the best conditions for growing the French grape variety Cabernet Sauvignon. Due to the limestone subsoil, this site is also called a luxury site (campo lusso). Intense and generous bouquet of dark fruits, leather and chocolate. Complex and deep on the palate, very focused and with increasing aeration very elegant and aristocratic. A complete red that will delight not only Cabernet lovers. Only about 1,300 bottles of this spectacular drop can be produced per vintage. SUPERIORE.DE

2022 was the year of the drought. Not the first, not the last – but one that told its own story at Roccamonfina. Week after week without rain, soils as yellow as straw under the sun. And yet: the springs in the volcanic rock never dried up. The soil that Galardi works holds water deep beneath the stones, invisible and inexhaustible. Allegra Selvaggi, who runs the estate today, described this vintage with Monet – not the motif, but the air around it. The multicoloured landscape despite the drought. The beauty that arises when a terroir is stronger than the weather.

Some wineries tell their story on display boards. At Fuligni, it's embedded in the walls. The palazzo in the heart of Montalcino dates back to the 17th century – the Medici family once resided here, and a Spanish princess left behind a room that still bears her name today. Beneath it, deeper than the palazzo itself, lie the cellars: built at the end of the 16th century, with vaulted ceilings in "tecnica mista", and completely naturally insulated. This is where the Brunello matures in Slavonian oak barrels. This is also where it matured when Giovanni Maria Fuligni came to Montalcino at the start of the 20th century – and it matures here, just as his ancestors in the Maremma made wine before him, without interruption, without taking any shortcuts.

The white enigma of Bolgheri. In a region that has earned its immortality through Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, few dare to make history with white wine. Yet Cinzia Merli took that risk – and in 1991, with the Paleo Bianco, she created the white counterpart to her legendary red Paleo range. What began as a modest creation for local restaurants has evolved into one of Italy's most enigmatic and sought-after white wines. The name – derived from "pagliaio", the Tuscan word for haystack – shares the same poetic spirit as its red counterpart, yet its character is entirely its own. 70% Chardonnay and 30% Sauvignon Blanc blend here to form a symphony of Mediterranean intensity, translating international grape varieties into the Tuscan terroir. Originally, Sauvignon Blanc dominated this blend, but over the decades Cinzia has reversed the proportions – an evolution that has taken the Paleo Bianco from the citrus freshness of its youth to the structured complexity that characterises it today.

Lorenzo Sassetti's Riserva has a dense texture and resolute power. Brilliant, rich ruby colour with a garnet rim. A core of dark fruits and black cherries is framed by spices, toast, pressed rose and earthy garden soil. Firm, very dense tannins, builds up in many layers, savoury, ripe fruit, firm pressure and not a hint of dryness on the final, great potential. SUPERIORE.DE

In 2021, the Montalcino DOCG produced a vintage of rare clarity. Cooler nights, marked temperature fluctuations, a slow and steady ripening process lasting well into October – these are the conditions that allow Sangiovese Grosso to reveal what lies beyond the fruit: minerality, structure, and the subtle geological layers of a vineyard that has been producing wine since the Middle Ages. Pieve Santa Restituta vinifies according to this philosophy: each of the plots – Sugarille, Rennina, Santo Pietro, Castagno, Pian dei Cerri and Torrenieri in the north-east of the appellation – is harvested, fermented and macerated separately. Only after individual ageing in oak for 24 months is the final blend for the vintage determined through extensive blind tastings. Six months in concrete tanks before bottling.

Gabbro, produced in small quantities of just 2,500 bottles each year, is the essence of Montepeloso's finest Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, the vines are over 40 years old. Impressively complex bouquet of dark fruits, smoke and grilled vegetables. Powerful and muscular on the palate, revealing its pedigree and great class. Exquisite, complex, nuanced, persistent, long ... Gabbro really does offer everything you need for an unforgettable wine experience at world-class Cabernet level. SUPERIORE.DE

On 11 September 2001 – the day that changed the world – luca Sanjust planted 5,000 Cabernet Sauvignon vines on half a hectare of natural terraces, directly below the medieval watchtower of Galatrona. "Campo Lusso" – the luxury field – is what the local farmers have called this place at an altitude of 450 to 500 metres, surrounded by the pristine forests of the Chianti hills. A place of such beauty and favourable climate that it really was a luxury. Here, where calcareous slate mixes with marl and sandstone, Cabernet Sauvignon finds the mineral complexity that distinguishes it from the usual interpretations of this Bordeaux grape variety. The Gobelet cultivation – that ancient bush form – forces the vines to reach the lowest concentrations, while the forests protect them from the cool down winds and the morning sun dries everything quickly.

Some wines embody the history of an entire movement. Camartina is one of that handful of Tuscan icons that changed everything in the early 1980s – those rebellious Super Tuscans that paid no heed to the strict rules of Chianti Classico and instead pursued their own vision of greatness. 1981 saw the birth of Camartina, and with this wine, Querciabella not only laid the foundations for its own success but also made Italian wine history. The name itself says it all: a fusion of "Casaocci" – the first office on the first hectare of vineyard – and "Martina", the younger daughter of Giuseppe Castiglioni, the visionary founder. What began as a Sangiovese-dominated blend has undergone a fascinating evolution over the decades. Today, Cabernet Sauvignon is the clear protagonist, accounting for seventy per cent, whilst Sangiovese, at thirty per cent, contributes that elegant Tuscan linearity which sets Camartina apart from other Super Tuscans. The reason lies in the vineyards of Ruffoli near Greve in Chianti, where Cabernet has found a home on the arid sandstone soils that lend it an unusual finesse – lighter, more refined and sophisticated than elsewhere.

The grapes for this remarkably Burgundian Gran Selezione come from the single vineyard of the same name in a 2.25-hectare Chianti Classico vineyard, which was planted in 1971 with a density of 3,400 vines per hectare and is south-facing on old terraces. Riecine has leased these plots since the 1980s, and in the 2019 debut vintage, the winery succeeded in acquiring this site, which is one of the best terroirs in the Chianti Classico region. The bottles are numbered and around 4,000 bottles and 50 magnums are bottled each year.

Pajana - most modern wine of the entire Clerico range - presents itself closed, compressed and with great potential. Rich ruby with a light garnet rim. Compact nose, showing rich notes of blackberry, dark cherries, a little cinchona bark in the background. Explodes literally on the palate, lots of ripe, present fruit, then opens up with lots of fine-meshed tannin, salty depth, rich pressure. SUPERIORE.DE

A wine of remarkable aromatic complexity. Amarone aficionados know how many allusions these wines are capable of evoking, and it is not difficult to discern mushrooms, forest undergrowth, truffles, Havana leaves and even wild violets in this wine's aromatic profile, as well as the usual confit cherries and plums. In the mouth, the wine is remarkably concentrated yet elegant, carrying this bundle of allusions effortlessly and seamlessly through the palate. The fine pearly tannins give it support and the concentration of fruit is so great that the acidity almost fades into the background. A dense, polished and stately wine of the highest calibre. SUPERIORE.DE

Tasca got involved in Etna early on and the latest result of these years of experience are four new single vineyard wines from the Tascante estate: Contrada Rampante, Pianodario, Sciaranuova and Sciaranuova Vigna Vecchia (V.V.). The wines are delicate and profound, and despite their power, acidity and taut tannin, very elegant, finesse-rich and light-footed on the palate. Each of the four plots brings a slightly different style and personality to the wine - due to the altitude, soil composition and morphology of the historic lava flows. A high annual rainfall ensures that the soil has all the water it needs, and the temperature fluctuations between day and night support the aromatic diversity of the grapes and ultimately the ripening potential.

Vorberg – the name gives away its location: on the steep southern slopes of the Tschöggelberg, at altitudes between 450 and 650 metres, a Pinot Blanc thrives that reveals the full potential of this famous South Tyrolean grape variety. The stony, sandy-loam soils, formed from weathered porphyry, with their high quartz content and slightly acidic pH levels, characterise a terroir of extremes: high water permeability, limited nutrient availability and naturally restricted yields. This microstress elicits unique, terroir-specific polyphenols from the vines. Hand-harvested, gently pressed as whole bunches, followed by natural sedimentation. Slow fermentation takes place at a controlled temperature in large oak casks (70 and 30 hl), followed by partial malolactic fermentation and 12 months' ageing on the fine lees in traditional wooden casks.

Sergio Zenato died in 2004. In the 1960s, he founded a winery on Lake Garda that gave the Turbiana grapes of Lugana a platform they had never known before – and then, step by step, expanded into the hills of Valpolicella Classico. This Riserva bears his name because it embodies the very best that Sergio Zenato strove for. It is produced only in the finest vintages, from a rigorous selection of the oldest vines in the municipality of Sant'Ambrogio, in the heart of Valpolicella Classico. Sant'Ambrogio lies at the south-western tip of the Classico zone, near Lake Garda. The lake's waters temper the climate, slow down ripening and give the vines a balance not found on the more distant hills. Corvina and Rondinella, complemented by Oseleta, that almost forgotten indigenous Valpolicella variety which was only saved from extinction in the 1990s.

The small vineyard is located 500 metres above the Galatrona Tower and offers the best conditions for growing the French Cabernet Sauvignon grape variety. Due to the limestone subsoil, this site is also known as a luxury site (campo lusso). Intense and generous bouquet of dark fruit, leather and chocolate. Complex and deep on the palate, very focussed and, with aeration, very elegant and aristocratic. A complete red that will not only delight Cabernet lovers. Only around 1,300 bottles of this spectacular wine can be produced per vintage. SUPERIORE.DE