James Suckling | 95–100 Points

In the late 1980s, Luca Sanjust planted the first Merlot clones in the clay-rich soils of Feriale, unaware that he was about to create a legend. The name Galatrona – once the estate of the Tuscan dynasty, whose medieval watchtower towers above the ten-hectare vineyard – was to become synonymous with Italian Merlot perfection. "The Le Pin of Tuscany", as Wine Spectator calls it, yet at a fraction of the price of that legendary Pomerol. The 50,000 vines on south-east-facing terraces combine Bordeaux genetics with a Tuscan soul. Clay retains the moisture that Merlot needs during the hot summers, whilst slate, marl and sandstone provide the mineral complexity.

San Leonardo is the flagship of the winery of the same name and one of the best red wines in Trentino every year. Opulent bouquet with nuances of dark fruit such as blackberry and sour cherry. Delicate notes of spices, leather and tobacco give it a terrific complexity, which is then enhanced on the palate by a harmonious interplay of dark berries and plums, all flanked by clearly contoured tannins. A masterful red with a strong personality that will reach its true greatness after a few more years of bottle ageing and live up to its reputation. SUPERIORE.DE

In 1990, Lucia Bazzocchi Sanjust planted a small plot of Merlot, intended as a blending component for the Torrione, not as a wine in its own right. Fate had other ideas: in 1994, the harvest from this plot was overlooked; the grapes were left on the vine for too long, and, unsure of their quality, the family vinified them separately. That very autumn, the young critic James Suckling was a guest in Mercatale Valdarno and was so impressed by the barrel that he urged Luca Sanjust to bottle the wine undiluted. And so, from an overlooked vineyard, the Galatrona was born, whose 2024 vintage now marks the 30th vintage since that unintended initial success.

2019 shone in Montalcino. No critic who tasted it spent long searching for words. No overripeness, no heat scars, no compromises. And for an east-facing vineyard like Le Lucére – fully exposed to the first light of the morning – this meant that the Sangiovese Grosso was harvested with a ripeness that has rarely been so precisely predictable. Harvested early, fresh and concentrated at the same time. Caciorgna allowed the wine to pass through all of its stages: 13 to 14 months in barrique and tonneau, then almost 28 months in large containers – an ageing process that demands and receives depth. The result is a Le Lucére of princely stature.

2020 posed a simple question for Montalcino's winegrowers: who has the better terroir? In a hot, dry year – august temperatures close to 40 degrees – it was not just the manual labour in the vineyard that decided, but the geology. Le Lucére responded with Galestro and slate: soils that hold water deeper, moderate temperatures and preserve freshness when patience and acidity have long since given way elsewhere. Organic farming since 2013 has paid off many times over in years like these. Living soils, deep-rooted vines, no drought stress that forces chemical interventions. Paolo Caciorgna didn't have to save anything. He just had to listen.

Il Nocio, a Nobile di Montepulciano from a single vineyard, impressively demonstrates the true essence of the Sangiovese grape and has also been one of the region's quality leaders for years. Deep red, intense aromas of sour cherry, redcurrant, rose petals, violets and sweet spices. Dense, juicy and elegant on the palate, with fresh, pure fruit and smoothly polished tannins. Lively mineral and floral nuances in the very long finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Dark bouquet of cherry and plum sauces mixed with cloves and grapefruit peel. This is pure elegance, rich and supple, even polished in feel, while masses of mineral-tinged red berries flow over a core of vibrant acidity. The tannins arrive late and intermingle with a concentrated layer of primary fruit, leaving a classically structured impression. It is already clear that this wine will make its fans very happy in a few years' time. SUPERIORE.DE

Altesinos Riserva is a taut and firm wine with perfectly nuanced fruit and an impressive aristocracy that always characterises the great elegance of Altesinos wines. In addition to its noble restraint, this Riserva is extremely refined, revealing a cosy ripeness with precise cherry aromas, spices, leather and traces of liquorice. Already exceptionally good today, it will certainly be even better in a few years' time! SUPERIORE.DE

Vecchie Vigne by Siro Pacenti is still one of the most modern wines to emerge from this sun-drenched appellation in southern Tuscany. The grapes come from old vines that are between 38 and 53 years old. You can immediately taste the great 2019 vintage and the richness and suppleness of its dark fruit and lush blackberry flavours. Vecchie Vigne offers that certain hint of exotic spices, savoury tobacco and even notes of talcum powder or buttered popcorn, which come from the oak - it is aged for 24 months in French barriques - which does it a world of good and makes it unmistakable. All the attributes of this exceptional wine are clearly pronounced and unmistakably convincing, all of which contribute to a creamy and infinitely long-lasting mouthfeel and make this wine one of the best of the vintage. SUPERIORE.DE

The project aims to highlight the link between the vines, the wines and their territorial origins. The Mastroberardino family wants to recreate the style of winemaking of the indigenous grape varieties of Irpinia (Greco, Fiano and Aglianico) that took place between the late 1950s and early 1970s for the Taurasi and between 1970 and 1980 for the two white wines from Irpinia. It is the unmistakable style (the stilèma) of a family that has interpreted the natural heritage of its territory over generations and that today impressively emphasises the genuine character of the terroir, which by no means can be expressed through high concentration and intensity alone.

San Leonardo is the flagship wine of the winery of the same name and, year on year, one of the finest red wines in northern Italy. It boasts an opulent bouquet with hints of dark fruits such as blackberry and sour cherry. Delicate hints of spice, leather and tobacco lend it a terrific complexity, which is then enhanced on the palate by a harmonious interplay of dark berries and plums, the whole flanked by clearly defined tannins. A masterful, characterful red that, after a few more years of bottle ageing, reaches its true greatness and lives up to its reputation. SUPERIORE.DE

1983 was the first year. Luca Martini di Cigala, who was at that time in the process of taking over an estate that was still selling its wine in bulk to Antinori and Ruffino, decided to do the opposite of what many of his contemporaries were doing: no international grape varieties, no modernisation of the label, no barriques full of vanilla. A single wine, from a single vineyard, made from a single grape variety. Sangiovese. San Giusto a Rentennano. – Percarlo made its debut with the 1983 vintage – and immediately began to rewrite the history of Chianti Classico. The wine's philosophy is that of its maker: the vineyard comes before the cellar. The grapes for Percarlo are not selected by plot; instead, every bunch of grapes is examined, every vine, every site. The yield is one kilogram per vine. This has been the approach since 2001, because Martini di Cigala recognised how inconsistent Sangiovese can be from vine to vine, even within the same plot. The soils that give Percarlo its character date predominantly from the Pliocene – layers of sand and stones, two to five metres deep, resting on a bed of clay and earth. Mineral-rich, well-drained, with the ability to influence the Sangiovese over the years.

Altesinos Montosoli displays the famous characteristics of this particular site, which are always characterised by a pronounced mineral intensity, with hints of crushed granite and lead pencil layers. The five-hectare vineyard has a higher concentration of Galestro clay-slate rock, and the altitude contributes to the freshness of the wine.

Chardonnay in the Maremma – that sounds like a bad idea. The sun is too strong, the summer too long, the heat too Mediterranean. And yet: Georg Weber has taken up this challenge. Not because he had to, but because he loves Chardonnay – the great white Burgundy wines, their texture, their complexity, their ability to express a place rather than mask it. Capalbio is one of the very few places on the Tuscan coast where this gamble pays off: 30 to 80 metres above sea level, five kilometres from the Tyrrhenian Sea, clay-limestone with eroded stones, constant sea breezes, cool nights. Each plot is vinified separately – because Weber believes that the terroir should have the final say, not the cellar. Whole-bunch pressing, natural fermentation, ageing on the fine lees with regular bâtonnage, using gravity exclusively throughout the entire process. Matured in French barriques and oval concrete tanks – a combination that gives the Chardonnay structure and depth without weighing it down. Around 5,000 bottles. The terroir allows for no more.

A monumental and highly concentrated single-varietal Cabernet Sauvignon with hints of sour cherries and subtle notes of cedarwood and liquorice. What makes it so fascinating is that Pietradonice is unmistakably recognisable as a Montalcino wine, yet with its herbaceous, spicy character it is as typical of Neri's style as it is of the grape variety itself – and thus, once again, seems to come from another, wider world. SUPERIORE.DE

It was in 1991 that Michele Satta planted his first vineyard with a visionary blend: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Syrah. A blend designed both to pay tribute to Bolgheri's established Bordeaux-style excellence and to combine the Tuscan elegance of Sangiovese with the Mediterranean complexity of Syrah. Three years later, in 1994, Piastraia was born – the wine that changed everything and catapulted Michele Satta into the ranks of Bolgheri's great producers. The name derives from the chestnut trees that surround the vineyard – "Piastraia" refers to the characteristic layer of chestnut leaves that covers the ground. But it is more than just a name: it is the embodiment of a philosophy that combines international stature with a Tuscan soul. Almost three decades after the first vines were planted, Piastraia has found its definitive form. Since 2012, it has proudly borne the designation "Bolgheri Superiore" – a tribute to vineyards that have reached their full complexity after two decades. From the 2019 vintage onwards, Satta removed Syrah from this blend to give space to the pure essence of Bordeaux varieties and Tuscan Sangiovese.

The grapes for the profound Le Vigne come from Baudana in Serralunga d'Alba (for the power), Villero in Castiglione Falletto (for the precision), Vignane in Barolo (for the purity of the flavours) and Merli in Novello (for the fullness of the fruit). It opens wide with aromas of fresh red fruit and a delicate spicy note. Very intense on the palate, remarkably elegant, fine-grained tannins, extremely clear, structured and long. SUPERIORE.DE

Bussia is the beating heart of Aldo Conterno – those five hectares in Bussia Soprana from which it all began. When Aldo bought Cascina Favot in 1969 and parted company with his brother Giovanni, he did so not out of rebellion, but out of conviction: He wanted to make Barolo friendlier, more accessible, without betraying its soul. Shorter macerations, pumping over instead of submerged pomace cap – these techniques quickly threw him into the "modernist" camp. But because he never gave up the large Slavonian oak barrels, his wines lack the barrique lustre that characterises many modern Barolo. The Barolo Bussia is the classic base cuvée – a blend from various parcels of Bussia, from vines at least 20 years old. Vinification follows the Conterno philosophy: manual harvest in mid-October, temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts, two to three weeks of maceration depending on the vintage. The wine is then aged for 26 months in large Slavonian oak barrels of 25 to 75 hectolitres, which are replaced every 15 to 18 years. This is followed by a further year of bottle ageing – for a total of three years before the wine leaves the winery.

Grattamacco is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese, the latter grape variety certainly contributing to the fresh style of this wine. However, the overall picture is only complete when you realise that the vineyards used for this blend are among the best in the appellation. The Grattamacco Bolgheri Rosso Superiore is characterised by its typical aromas of leaves and Mediterranean forest, with subtle flavours of kiwi peel, cassis, paprika and chocolate. Velvety, youthful and firm on the attack, less light than the Alberello, but more tightly woven and of great elegance. Its length is astonishing, great potential! SUPERIORE.DE

Altesinos Montosoli displays the famous characteristics of this particular site, which are always characterised by a pronounced mineral intensity, with hints of crushed granite and lead pencil layers. The five-hectare vineyard has a higher concentration of Galestro clay-slate rock, and the altitude contributes to the freshness of the wine.

Boscarelli's Il Nocio, a Nobile di Montepulciano from a single vineyard, impressively demonstrates the true essence of the Sangiovese grape and has also been one of the region's quality leaders for years.

Pajana - the most modern wine in the entire Clerico range - presents itself as a closed, compact wine with great potential. Rich ruby colour with a slight garnet rim. Compact nose, with rich notes of blackberry, dark cherries and a hint of cinchona bark in the background. Literally explodes on the palate, lots of ripe, present fruit, then opens up with lots of fine-meshed tannins, savoury depth, full-bodied pressure. SUPERIORE.DE

Siepi has always been more than just a vineyard – it was a vision waiting to become reality. Owned by the Mazzei family since 1435, this mystical place lies amidst dense oak forests near Castellina in Chianti: ten hectares of pure magic on Alberese soils, which even the ancient Romans knew how to appreciate. Paradoxically, the story of Siepi 2023 begins with one of the most challenging vintages of recent times. A mild winter with scant rainfall, followed by a rainy spring that pushed the Mazzei winemakers to their limits. And yet, or perhaps precisely because of this, a wine emerged that impressively embodies the estate's philosophy: "Great vineyards shine in difficult vintages."