Formats

1975 – two years after Riecine’s first Chianti Classico – john Dunkley decided that some years and some grapes deserve more than the usual. The Riserva was born. Since then, it has only been produced when the selection allows: the best vineyards, the oldest vines, two stages of selection – in the vineyard and on the sorting table – before the grapes enter the cellar. The vines for the Riserva are between 25 and 45 years old. After selection, the must is transferred to unglazed Nomblot concrete vats. There, the must is initially kept cool with dry ice for four to five days before spontaneous fermentation begins – slowly, naturally. After fermentation, the wine spends a further ten days on the skins, with the cap submerged. Then comes the centrepiece: the entire Riserva production is transferred to a single large oak cask from Grenier. Untoasted – no toasty aromas, no vanilla, no foreign character. Just the neutral, breathable structure of the wood. 22 months. Then back into concrete for natural stabilisation and clarification. Finally, three months in bottle.

Pulin is the result of the rediscovery of the Granaccia grape, which is one of the most valuable in the small wine region of Liguria and was almost extinct. The wines, produced in very small quantities, have an excellent structure, Mediterranean vigour and remarkable ageing potential.

Vintages write wine history – and 2021 is deeply engraved in Montalcino. Extreme drought, intense sunshine, nights that remained cool despite everything: The Sangiovese vines responded with concentrated, aromatically dense grapes that yielded little but showed a clear signature. For La Quinta, the wine from Ferrini's fifth vineyard at 400 metres above the Castello di Sant'Angelo in Colle, this meant an emphatic vintage. The vinification follows the tried and tested rhythm: 7 days of fermentation in steel, 13 days of maceration, then a year of ageing in tonneaux, large oak barrels and cocciopesto amphorae made of baked clay, before the wine is left to rest in cement and finally matures for at least 6 months in the bottle.

Probably the most famous Lugana from the southern shore of Lake Garda – i Frati is the flagship of the estate. Made from 100% Turbiana from calcareous moraine soils, it combines regional typicity with fine modern precision. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with greenish reflections. Fresh citrus fruit, white peaches, pears and a hint of almond blossom on the nose, complemented by delicate herbal notes. Clear and juicy on the palate, with lively, well-integrated acidity, fine flavour and a subtle mineral vein that lends freshness and depth in equal measure. The final is long, elegant and characterised by citrus fruit. A timeless classic that brings the terroir of the Lugana region perfectly into the glass – stylish, stimulating to drink and with assured ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

The Bordini parcel lies between gentle hills in the municipality of Neive, with a southern exposure and calcareous soil – one of the structure-forming Barbaresco vineyards that has always been famous for its power, elegance and depth. The 2021 vintage is considered particularly refined: A long, balanced growing season nourished the grapes with balanced ripeness, while cooler nights preserved the fine acidity. The manual harvest in mid-October was perfectly timed and ensured the high quality of the harvest. Ageing in large oak barrels for 12-14 months brought complementary depth without masking the clear fruit expression.

Bruno Giacosa was not a man of long explanations. His credo could be summarised in one sentence: perfect grapes, minimal intervention, the terroir does the rest. Since his death in 2018, his daughter Bruna has continued to run the winery in Neive with winemaker Dante Scaglione – the same philosophy, the same meticulousness, the same conviction that Nebbiolo needs no help if it grows in the right place. The Nebbiolo d'Alba does not come from the Langhe, but from the Roero – the left bank of the Tanar, the often underestimated opposite bank to Barolo and Barbaresco. The vineyards in the municipalities of Monteu Roero, Santo Stefano Roero and Vezza d'Alba lie on sandy, calcareous soils that show a different side to Nebbiolo than the heavy limestone marl of the Langhe: more accessible, more floral, with a natural lightness in the tannin. Vines between 20 and 30 years old, various exposures, harvested at the beginning of October. Spontaneous fermentation, 25 days maceration in steel tanks, complete malolactic fermentation. Matured for 14 months in French oak. Bottled without filtration.

In the hills between Castagneto Carducci and the Tyrrhenian Sea, Grattamacco has achieved a remarkable feat: an elegant Vermentino that brings together terroir, grape variety and vinification methods with rare depth. The grapes come from organically farmed plots at a coastal altitude – which are constantly well-ventilated, yet characterised by intense sunshine and a significant day-night temperature difference. The combination of sea breezes and limestone soils produces a white wine of impressive substance.

The Bordini vineyard in Neive, sun-kissed and situated on calcareous, slightly sandy soils, has been known for generations for Nebbiolo with natural vigour and fine contours. The 2022 vintage brought a warm, dry growing climate, which, thanks to cool nights and precise harvest, produced grapes with intense aromas and optimal phenolic ripeness. The colour in the glass is a rich ruby with a slight garnet hue. The nose is inviting and multi-layered: juicy plum, ripe strawberry and the warm aroma of crushed nutmeg interweave with rose petals, orange peel, a hint of dried herbs and fine spice. On the palate, the wine reveals its dual nature – generous red-fleshed fruit paired with the classic Nebbiolo structure that characterises Bordini. Velvety but noticeable tannins provide backbone, while the lively acidity keeps the rich fruit in balance and lends freshness and energy to the powerful body. The finish is long, savoury and infused with a fine mineral vein – a Barbaresco full of expressiveness that harmoniously combines the essence of the vineyard and vintage. SUPERIORE.DE

Those who sow elegance must negotiate with the climate. The weather in 2022 was a tough negotiator in Montalcino: persistent drought, periods of heat, hardly any rainfall in the crucial summer months. The wines that emerged from this year are characterised by this – concentrated, structured, deep in fruit, with tannins that will need time. La Quinta originated, as always, from the fifth vineyard of Podere Giodo at an altitude of 400 metres – medium-gravel soils, south-easterly exposure, pure Sangiovese. Fermentation in steel for 7 days, maceration for 13 days. The 12-month wood ageing in tonneaux, large oak barrels and the characteristic Cocciopesto amphorae made of baked clay remains the stylistic backbone of the wine – an ageing process that integrates textures rather than imposing wood.

Tasca was involved in Etna at an early stage and the latest result of this many years of experience are four new single vineyard wines from the Tascante winery: Contrada Rampante, Pianodario, Sciaranuova and Sciaranuova Vigna Vecchia (V.V.). The wines are filigree and profound, and despite their strength, acidity and tight tannin very elegant, rich in finesse and light-footed on the palate. Each of the four plots brings a slightly different style and personality to the wine due to the altitude, soil and morphology of the historical lava flows. A high annual rainfall secures all water reserves for the soil, and the temperature fluctuations between day and night support the variety of aromas of the grapes and ultimately the ripening potential.

Difficult vintages make honest wines. 2023 presented Tuscany with unusual challenges: a cool, rainy spring with peronospora pressure, hail damage in parts of the region, followed by a hot summer. In Montalcino, the favourable protective effect of Monte Amiata and the altitude came together in a positive way: Where the conditions were right, wines of surprising lightness and floral freshness were produced – less powerful than last year's vintage, but with a grace that becomes a strength in good hands. Carla Ferrini's fifth vineyard at 400 metres also yielded single-varietal Sangiovese in 2023, which was vinified according to a tried-and-tested method: 7 days of fermentation, 13 days of maceration, 12 months of ageing in tonneaux, oak barrels and cocciopesto amphorae, rounding off in cement, 6 months in the bottle. A rhythm that allows the wine to tell the story of the vintage – without correcting it.

Albe! ... the poetic name of this Barolo refers to the sky at sunrise, as experienced by the various terroirs of the estate: Coste di Vergne, Fossati and La Volta. These high-altitude sites each produce slightly different dawns, which is symbolically reflected in the harmony of the cuvée. The grapes come from young but ripe Nebbiolo vines and combine the nuances of each parcel to create a flowing, elegant expression. The grapes were carefully harvested by hand, each parcel was vinified separately and only combined into a cuvée in the spring before bottling. The wine is matured for around 36 months in large Slavonian oak barrels (40–75 hl) with annual racking – a maturation that allows for depth and harmony.

The great estates in Bordeaux have shown the way: a so-called "second wine" is not the wine that didn't make it. It is another argument. Younger vines, different plots, shorter ageing periods – and thus a wine that is drunk earlier, appears fresher and shows a different side of the same terroir. Tenuta San Leonardo brought this concept to the Dolomites in 2005.

When you say Nebbiolo, you think of Piedmont. Of Barolo and Barbaresco, of decades in barrels, of tannins that need more time than almost any other variety. This image is correct – and yet incomplete. Nebbiolo was already in the Aosta Valley long before anyone started marketing it. Here it has a different name: Picotendro. And it does not grow on the famous hills of the Langhe, but in the glacial Fondovalle of Arnad and Issogne – in an alluvial riverbed formed by glaciers, on silty-sandy sedimentary soils, 350 metres above sea level, between north-west and south-east exposures.

Pure Pinot Noir from the calcareous moraines around Calino – vinified using the saignée method and matured on the fine lees for at least 24 months. A delicate onion skin colour with a lively perlage unfolds in the glass. The nose seduces with floral notes and clear fruit: redcurrant, raspberry, red grapefruit and delicate notes of dried blossom and yeast. Dry, precise and fresh on the palate; the fruit typical of the grape variety remains present and is supported by fine acidity. The finish shows fine minerality, juicy berry fruit and a subtle creaminess from the yeast contact. A rosé with a clearly recognisable Pinot Noir personality and an outrageously good blend of sophistication and drinking pleasure. SUPERIORE.DE

Tasca got involved in Etna early on and the latest result of these years of experience are four new single vineyard wines from the Tascante estate: Contrada Rampante, Pianodario, Sciaranuova and Sciaranuova Vigna Vecchia (V.V.). The wines are delicate and profound, and despite their power, acidity and taut tannin, very elegant, finesse-rich and light-footed on the palate. Each of the four plots brings a slightly different style and personality to the wine - due to the altitude, soil composition and morphology of the historic lava flows. A high annual rainfall ensures that the soil has all the water it needs, and the temperature fluctuations between day and night support the aromatic diversity of the grapes and ultimately the ripening potential.