Formats

Dunico – unique in the dunes. The name already reveals what distinguishes this wine from all other Primitivo: It comes from vineyards right on the coast, where sandy soils turn into dunes and the vines still grow on their original rootstock, ungrafted, ungrafted, like before the phylloxera catastrophe. It is an absolute rarity today, as most of these coastal vineyards fell victim to the "holiday home building frenzy". What remains are a few plots with ancient bush vines and extremely low yields, which produce a Primitivo of exceptional intensity and concentration. Sandy soil protects against phylloxera – and gives the wine a unique minerality and elegance that is rarely found in Primitivo. The grapes are harvest at the end of August, earlier than all other crus, as the grapes ripen more quickly here due to the proximity to the sea and the warmth of the sand.

There are said to be vineyards in Piedmont that do not like Nebbiolo. The Vigneto Fossati in the highest location in the municipality of Barolo is one of them: gravelly-sandy soil, morning sun exposure, 420 to 450 metres. Aldo Vajra planted it with Riesling in 1985 – out of conviction, which sounded rather provocative at the time. A second vineyard chapter was added: the Cascina Bertoni in Sinio, exposed to the north-east, calcareous and homogeneous. Pétracine, whose name means "Riesling" in Piedmontese, comes from both vineyards – and at the same time sounds like stone and roots. The clonal vines come from the Rhine, the Moselle, the Palatinate and Alsace: austere German minerality meets Alsatian creaminess and Piedmontese terroir. Gentle pressing, short cold clarification, 15 to 20 days fermentation in steel, ageing in stainless steel until spring – no intervention that does not serve the precision of this rare wine.

Contrada 2020 is a monumental Nero d'Avola that tells the story of old vines. Grown in Bastonaca, near Vittoria, these vines are rooted in mineralised red clay soils infused with limestone and silicate – this is the fundamental terroir that COS works out biodynamically with clear standards, as 100% Nero d'Avola from over 50-year-old Alberello vines is cultivated exclusively organically. After spontaneous fermentation, the wine matures in small oak barrels – an ageing process that adds depth and spicy finesse without drowning in wood.

Rosso delle Fontane from the single vineyard of the same name beguiles with its light ruby red colour and subtle scent of dark cherries, followed on the palate by redcurrant, hints of tar, suede and a well-measured amount of Amarena cherry. Salty-mineralic, never-ending finish. Highly elegant in its entirety and packaged with COS's own noble restraint. Burgundian greatness and a beacon of the Vittoria DOC appellation! SUPERIORE.DE

Nizza is Piedmont's youngest and, at the same time, most demanding DOCG. Officially recognised in 2014, having originated as a sub-zone of Barbera d'Asti Superiore at the turn of the millennium, it comprises 18 carefully selected municipalities in the Monferrato region, all concentrated on those hilly, calcareous-sandy soils of the Tertiary sedimentary layers that lend Barbera its characteristic depth and minerality. Tenuta Olim Bauda has been one of its most compelling producers from the very beginning. The vineyards lie at the heart of the production area, between Nizza Monferrato and Incisa Scapaccino, on sandy-clay soils on south-facing slopes, with historic vines alongside younger plots. Hand-harvested in the first and second weeks of October, pressed in the evening, and fermented in stainless steel at a controlled temperature. This is followed by 30 months' ageing in 25-hectolitre barrels made from French Allier oak – longer than the Riserva regulations require, and a decision made deliberately.

Gauggiole comes from a single vineyard in the north-east of the Castiglion del Bosco estate and is matured exclusively in concrete vats. Bright, lively red colour. Fresh red berries with delicate herbal notes on the nose. Well-structured on the palate with cool red fruit flavours such as cherry, floral nuances of violet and peppery notes on the finish. Well-balanced on the palate, with fine tannins and good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for this Chardonnay come from the estate's historic vineyards, and, as with all wines in this range, they are vinified separately according to variety and origin. In San Lorenzo, the site is a plateau of calcareous gravel, 60 metres above sea level, where the vines are on average more than thirty years old. The grapes ripen slowly on the vine, then are harvested by hand following a rigorous selection process. Fermentation takes place in new French oak casks. With a capacity of five hundred Liters, they hold more than twice the volume of a barrique, which means the wood releases its flavour more slowly. The wine spends eleven months in the same barrels, during which time the fine lees are stirred frequently; it is then bottled, and the ageing process continues in the bottle.

The Chardonnay grapes for Lis Neris' Metodo Classico come from the historic Jurosa vineyard. After the first fermentation in 500-litre barrels, it matures for at least three years in the bottle on the fine lees and develops the nobility and elegance that immediately excited us. On the nose, notes of yeast, light stone fruit, limestone and minerals. In the mouth it is creamy and elegant, blessed with depth and at the same time great freshness, which one would wish for from many a French counterpart. Dom Jurosa is precise, cool and pleasantly dry in its overall appearance, which also makes it an excellent food companion. SUPERIORE.DE

In the glass, this Trebbiano displays a pale straw-yellow colour with slightly greenish highlights – a visual hint of freshness and clarity. The nose opens with green apples, citrus notes and white flowers, underpinned by a subtle hint of mineral freshness. On the palate, it is finely structured and balanced: lively acidity, delicate fruit, clear expression and a dry, slightly salty finish. Ageing in stainless steel preserves its precision and varietal character. An uncomplicated, invigorating wine with a Mediterranean character – perfect with light dishes or seafood. SUPERIORE.DE

Disanfrancesco – di San Francesco. Two plots in La Morra that bear the name of St Francis and are located right next to Brunate, the famous MGA from which the great Voerzio Baroli come. If you want to understand what that means, you just need to know: Roberto Voerzio is considered one of the producers with the lowest yields in the entire Barolo zone. Less than one bottle per vine. The first vintage of Disanfrancesco was released in 2001 – when Voerzio made the decision to vinify his best Nebbiolo below the Barolo appellation: more accessible, drinkable earlier, but still with the relentless vineyard philosophy of the house. South-east exposure, around 450 metres, 6,000 to 8,000 vines per hectare, maximum 1.5 kilograms per vine. Natural yeasts, steel, then 12 months in tonneaux at 30% new, followed by a further 8 months in 25-hectolitre barrels and steel. No filtration, no fining, no intervention.

The first vines were planted in 1952 on the ridge that today gives the wine its name. Poggio Lombrone – the hill overlooking the Ombrone Valley. Seventy years later, some of these vines are still standing. Their yield is low, their concentration exceptional. Whoever says cru means exactly that. The vineyard lies at 300 metres, the soils are tufaceous clays and calcareous marl slate – maremma terroir in its wildest and most concentrated form. Long fermentation in open wooden conical fermenters with manual punching down, complete malolactic fermentation, then 18 months in 30-hectolitre oak barrels, followed by at least 24 months in the bottle.

The south-eastern tip of Montalcino – near Castelnuovo dell'Abate, at an altitude of 350 to 380 metres, surrounded by oak forests and olive groves – is known for Brunello of extraordinary elegance. On this marl-limestone soil with layers of clay, where sea breezes and the cool nights of Monte Amiata speak the same language, the Spina family has spent four decades quietly building up a vineyard that produces more from a few hectares than some do from twenty. The Rosso di Montalcino is Sesta di Sopra's finger pointing: what is possible when Brunello is still waiting. Fermentation in temperature-controlled steel tanks, maturation in French barriques – more accessible and fresher than its big brother, but with the same roots, the same limestone, the same signature. The difference lies in the timing, not the ambition.

Cilento lies in the shadow of its more famous neighbours in Campania – Irpinia with its Fiano di Avellino DOCG, and Taurasi with its Aglianico. Luigi Maffini is one of the winegrowers who have given this coastal region south of Paestum a voice of its own, with the same high standards for Fiano that the more famous areas claim for themselves. Three hectares, facing west-north-west, trained using the Guyot method with 4,200 vines per hectare. The yield is deliberately kept low: 1.5 kilograms per vine, a level of concentration that many white wine producers would shy away from. Hand-harvested in the second ten-day period of September. The grapes are gently pressed; fermentation takes place directly in new barriques at a controlled temperature of 16°C, followed by around four months' ageing in the same oak.

Deep, bright ruby red colour. Stunning aromas of floral dark berries, flint and attractive aromatic spices. Then fresh and juicy, but with a creeping concentration of blue and black fruit flavours, lifted by a zesty minerality and lively, harmonious acidity. The spicy, long finish is reminiscent of cloves, black pepper and coriander. A great wine, and we know now at the latest: The Catania family has a real knack for Cerasuolo di Vittoria. SUPERIORE.DE

Grenache travels far and takes on a different name everywhere: Garnacha in Spain, Cannonau in Sardinia, Alicante on the Tuscan coast. The same Mediterranean soul everywhere – light in colour, bright red fruit, effortless drinkability. On the coast, it is one of the oldest grape varieties; in Montebamboli it has been growing for over 22 years, exposed to the south-east, on iron-rich, acidic soils at an altitude of 371 metres. This combination changes the character. What sometimes tends to be broad in warm, flat areas finds its tension on the cool, windy slopes of the Parco dei Montioni. Open fermentation vats, 20 to 30% whole bunches depending on the vintage, 20 days of maceration at 20 to 25 °C with gentle extraction – then exclusively concrete, 6 to 9 months. No wood to mask the fruit.

A heraldic animal, not a warning: Conte della Vipera pays tribute to Gentile Monaldeschi della Vipera, the branch of the Orvieto noble family which, in the 15th century, was named after the snake in its coat of arms and was repeatedly driven out by the rival della Cervara line. The castle dates back to 1222; Antinori acquired the estate in 1940, and since 1997 the Sauvignon cuvée has borne the name of that combative count. The Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon grapes for this Umbria IGT white wine are grown on vineyards at altitudes of between 250 and 350 metres, on fossil-rich soil with fine clay veins, which lend the wine its mineral character. After hand-harvesting and gentle pressing, the must ferments in cool steel tanks.

While the white Oudeis captures the complexity of the Alta Langa in its purest form, its pink-coloured brother adds another dimension: the soul of Pinot Nero. Because here it is the red grape alone that expresses the terroir. Saignée, the French word for "bloodletting", describes the method: a short maceration on the skins extracts just enough colour and fruit from the must to achieve that shimmering onion skin tone that shines so seductively in the glass. The grapes come from altitudes between 300 and 550 metres in the municipalities of Bubbio, Loazzolo, Trezzo Tinella and Vesime – the grapes come from calcareous clay soils, which give the wine its mineral tension. After manual harvesting, the grapes are cooled with carbon dioxide snow and the must is left to rest for two to four hours under nitrogen before gentle pressing. This is followed by six months of bâtonnage and 36 months of yeast storage in the historic cellar vaults.

The organically grown Etna Rosso Reseca is made from 100% Nerello Mascalese from a 1.5 hectare vineyard located at 800 metres above sea level on the blackened cone of the volcano. The wine offers both power and grace, the two contrasting qualities that characterise the great wines of Etna.

Eichhorn Vineyard – the name evokes South Tyrol, with its centuries-old vines rooted in sandy loam soils on weathered volcanic porphyry. As with the Sauvignon, this plot is also situated within the Tenuta Lieben Aich estate in Terlan, 300 metres above sea level, facing south-west towards the mild air currents. But whilst Tannenberg aims for maximum minerality, the Eichhorn seeks a balance between alpine clarity and Mediterranean richness. Here, Pinot Bianco – or "Weißburgunder", as the South Tyroleans call it – matures into a variety that oscillates between restraint and expression.

Lagrein and Gries belong together like Nebbiolo and Barolo. The Bolzano district of Gries is the ancestral home of this indigenous South Tyrolean grape variety – first mentioned in writing in 1379, since then hardly anywhere else as convincing as here. Rudi Kofler puts it in a nutshell: "The alluvial soils of Gries are ideal for Lagrein. Because the Gries terroir is unlike anything else in Terlan. No steep slopes, no porphyry rock – but flat, post-glacial alluvial soil in the sunny Bolzano valley basin, where the Adige, Eisack and Talfer rivers meet and summer temperatures of up to 40 degrees are not uncommon. Loamy-sandy soils, lime-free, brooding. A terroir that gives Lagrein warmth and ripeness without taking away its tension. Hand-picked, destemming, slow maceration in steel, malolactic fermentation – then 12 months of ageing: half in large wooden barrels and half in barriques, one third of which is new. Precision meets depth.

"This wine comes from my family's historic vineyard. It is a wine that is the result of much thought, research and experimentation, in which nothing was left to chance: Monte Grande is intended to be my great Soave wine." Graziano Prà

In the heart of the Colli Berici, where one of Italy’s most mysterious wine-growing regions stretches between Vicenza and Padua, Stefano Inama has been writing an extraordinary chapter in the European Carménère renaissance for three decades. What began in 1991 with an anonymous sip from an unlabelled glass – that legendary ‘love at first taste’ –, has developed into an obsessive passion that has made Inama Europe’s leading Carménère pioneer. Carminium, produced since 2015, is the younger sister of the iconic Oratorio di San Lorenzo and embodies Inama’s vision of a more accessible, yet complex expression of this almost forgotten Bordeaux variety. The history of this wine is inextricably linked to the Oratorio di San Lorenzo – of that small 16th-century chapel, which stands enthroned in the midst of a twelve-hectare Carménère amphitheatre. Here, where monks once lived amidst unspoilt nature, the Carménère vines have, after fifteen years on the vine, reached a level of maturity that allows Inama to vinify the adjacent plots separately. The terroir is characterised by the distinctive red clay soils of the Colli Berici – iron-rich terra rossa on a limestone subsoil, which gives the Carménère that unique balance between power and elegance that remains unattainable elsewhere.

Grenache is an unusual sight on Mount Etna. Yet on the volcano's southern slope – the hottest and driest part of the entire mountain – this Mediterranean grape variety finds conditions that it would lack on the cooler northern flank. Idda, the joint project of Gaia Gaja and Alberto Graci, makes the most of this unique feature for its Rosato: Nerello Mascalese and Grenache are fermented together, supplemented by a small proportion of Carricante, the estate's flagship white variety. This co-fermentation – red and white grapes together in the tank – is a deliberate stylistic choice. It gives the Rosato the freshness of the white variety and the structure of the reds, without either component dominating. The vines grow on dark, mineral-rich volcanic soils, in an area that Idda has described since its foundation as the "controversial side" of Mount Etna – away from the better-known vineyards.