Formats

Treiso is not Neive. Once you've grasped that, you begin to see the Barbaresco appellation in a different light. Neive offers power, body and polyphenols. Treiso – the southernmost of the three Barbaresco municipalities, situated at a higher altitude, cooler, with more compact, limestone-rich soils – imparts rigour, minerality and a longevity that some other sites lack. The MGA Pajoré is Treiso's voice in the Sottimano collection: the most traditional, the most persistent and, of the five crus, the one that demands the most patience. Old vines on calcareous-clay soils, steep and well-exposed. Organic cultivation from the outset. Fermentation with natural yeasts, extended maceration, natural malolactic fermentation. Aged for 18 to 22 months in François-Frères barriques, half on the lees, with a minimal proportion of new oak. No filtration. No fining. A further year in the bottle. The same winemaking method as always – and, as so often, proof that terroir matters more than technique.

Within the walls of history. The Castello di Bolgheri, built in 1796 and thus the oldest winery in Bolgheri, sits enthroned in the heart of the medieval village like a stone witness to great wine culture. While the world of wine underwent its revolutionary transformation around the Castello – sassicaia and Ornellaia wrote their legendary stories –a treasure lay dormant here that only awoke to its true destiny under Count Federico Zileri Dal Verme. The blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc and 5% Merlot not only represents the art of blending, but also the philosophy of the house: finesse over power, elegance over opulence. While the best parcels of Cabernet Sauvignon underwent an exceptionally long maceration of 30 days – only possible in exceptional vintages –the wine matured for 20 months in traditional Italian vats and Liters barrels. This choice of large wooden barrels, a deliberate departure from the small barriques of its neighbours, gives the wine the crystalline purity and mineral depth that makes the Castello the "Château Margaux of Bolgheri".

Basarin is the latest chapter in the Sottimano story – acquired in 2014, it was the fifth cru to complete the portfolio. And, at the same time, the most complex. The small Basarin MGA stretches across a varied landscape characterised by steep slopes and considerable altitude – a terrain that seems almost rugged compared to the gentle hills of other Neive vineyards. The soils are of Miocene-Helvetian origin, predominantly calcareous and interspersed with sandy veins – a composition that allows for both mineral tension and aromatic depth. The vines here vary in age and aspect, which places an additional demand on the winemaking process: even more precise selection and harvesteven more careful harvestof harvest. This is followed by the consistent Sottimano method: fermentation on natural yeasts, long maceration, spontaneous malolactic fermentation, 18 to 22 months in specially crafted barriques, and one year's bottle ageing. No filtration. No fining.

This is where it all began. When Rino Sottimano acquired his first plots in Neive in the 1970s, Cottà was his first vineyard – that south-west-facing site near the border with the municipality of Barbaresco, where the Nebbiolo benefits from two worlds: the power and polyphenols that Neive imparts to its wines, and the balance of tannins that the proximity to Barbaresco brings. It is the family's oldest plot – and the most authentic. Vines aged between 40 and 60 years on gently rolling slopes with light grey and yellowish Tortonian and Helvetic marl. Organic viticulture without compromise, fermentation with natural yeasts, long maceration with the cap submerged. Malolactic fermentation, which is not completed until the spring following the harvest. Then 18 to 22 months in barriques specially crafted for Sottimano by François Frères, half on the lees, with a small proportion of new oak. No filtration, no fining.

The name is history. Sapaio – an old Tuscan grape variety, long forgotten, but not its memory. When Massimo Piccin founded his winery in 1999, he chose this name as a sign of his deep connection to the terroir. A tribute to what was and a promise of what was to come. The vineyards extend over the municipalities of Bibbona and Castagneto Carducci, 40 hectares on quaternary deposits, from loose, coarse-grained sand deposits to alluvial soils with calcareous subsoil. Just ten kilometres from the sea, a microclimate that brings Bordeaux varieties to life. Since 2015, Piccin has been going his own way: instead of the prestigious Bolgheri Superiore DOCG, he deliberately chooses the free IGT Toscana, just to be able to add the handful of grapes from Bibbona that make Sapaio what it is today. Sometimes greatness means renouncing titles and regulations.

From Ginestra, the highest point in Monforte d'Alba, you can see as far as the Alps, with Mount Monviso taking centre stage. Conterno Fantino is situated on this hill, which is home to the estate, and this is where the Sorì Ginestra is grown. Its first harvest coincided with the year the estate was founded in 1982, and it was also the first vintage of Barolo that the two founders bottled. The oldest vines on this south-facing slope, at altitudes of between 330 and 370 metres, were planted in 1971.

The small vineyard is located at an altitude of 500 m above the Galatrona Tower and offers the best conditions for growing the French grape variety Cabernet Sauvignon. Due to the limestone subsoil, this site is also called a luxury site (campo lusso). Intense and generous bouquet of dark fruits, leather and chocolate. Complex and deep on the palate, very focused and with increasing aeration very elegant and aristocratic. A complete red that will delight not only Cabernet lovers. Only about 1,300 bottles of this spectacular drop can be produced per vintage. SUPERIORE.DE

This Riserva is only made available each year in very small quantities to hand-picked specialist retailers and top restaurants. Brilliant ruby red colour. Fine raspberry and floral notes dominate the spicy nose. Very juicy on the palate, tannins and acidity are well integrated. Riecines Riserva has length and suppleness right through to the long fruity finish. The elegance and fine melting texture are impressive. Once again, this is Sangiovese at the top level that Riecine is known for! SUPERIORE.DE

This strictly limited-edition Riserva is bottled only in the finest vintages. The bouquet is perfect and brooding, with notes of dried fruit, blackberries, white smoke and crushed stone. On the palate, it is wonderfully structured with precise balance and an almost weightless elegance, making it one of the finest red wines from southern Italy. Still intensely youthful, it has plenty of time ahead of it.  SUPERIORE.DE

2022 was the year of the drought. Not the first, not the last – but one that told its own story at Roccamonfina. Week after week without rain, soils as yellow as straw under the sun. And yet: the springs in the volcanic rock never dried up. The soil that Galardi works holds water deep beneath the stones, invisible and inexhaustible. Allegra Selvaggi, who runs the estate today, described this vintage with Monet – not the motif, but the air around it. The multicoloured landscape despite the drought. The beauty that arises when a terroir is stronger than the weather.

If Montosoli is the great Montalcino cru in the north, then the Sesta area between Castelnuovo dell'Abate and Sant'Angelo in Colle is its southern counterpart. This is where the Lisini vineyards are located.

Ugolaia is a name that carries weight in Montalcino. The vineyard is situated in the classic Sesta area, facing south-west, on one of the sunniest and best-ventilated plots on the entire estate – and it embodies a tradition that Lisini takes to heart: The estate's 'veterans' – those most experienced staff members who have known the estate for decades – graft premium cuttings from the estate's own massalselection onto wild rootstocks by hand. No clonal selection from a catalogue, no technological shortcuts – just knowledge passed down from person to person, vintage after vintage.

Ronco della Chiesa is another inspiring expression from one of Italy's most exciting white wine artists: the wine is made from 100% Friulano and is aged for 10 months in barriques. Its complexity is extraordinary. The wine grows in intensity with every passing minute, with notes of white peach, nectarine, poached pear and crushed limestone. As it progresses, there are hints of baked sweet bread or buttery croissant. On the palate, a very pleasing, medium fruit weight with beautiful, balanced acidity. Its quality clearly comes more from the fruit than from the winemaking. Only 2,600 bottles of this great Friulano were produced. SUPERIORE.DE

Some wineries tell their story on display boards. At Fuligni, it's embedded in the walls. The palazzo in the heart of Montalcino dates back to the 17th century – the Medici family once resided here, and a Spanish princess left behind a room that still bears her name today. Beneath it, deeper than the palazzo itself, lie the cellars: built at the end of the 16th century, with vaulted ceilings in "tecnica mista", and completely naturally insulated. This is where the Brunello matures in Slavonian oak barrels. This is also where it matured when Giovanni Maria Fuligni came to Montalcino at the start of the 20th century – and it matures here, just as his ancestors in the Maremma made wine before him, without interruption, without taking any shortcuts.

The name alone hints at the poetry of this vintage Spumante. For decades, Perlé has been regarded as the very essence of Ferrari's artistry, born from a meticulous selection of the finest Chardonnay grapes from the Trentino mountains. The grapes for this Millesimato come from vineyards situated at altitudes of between 300 and 600 metres. Here, where the vines are bathed in the mountain sun all day long but rest in the cool mountain air at night, the Chardonnay develops the mineral depth and aromatic complexity that make Perlé so distinctive. The Lunelli family selects only the very best plots – those grapes that most purely reflect the terroir. Perlé matures on the fine lees for almost five years – an exceptionally long ageing period that gives the spumante its characteristic creaminess and those delicate yeasty notes that harmonise perfectly with the fruity elegance of the Chardonnay.

A wine that takes its name from the estate's last noble family – and thus from a man who left his mark far beyond the world of wine. Count Guido Chigi Saracini, born in Siena in 1880, was not only the lord of Poggio Bonelli, but also a passionate patron of the arts. In 1932, he founded the Accademia Musicale Chigiana, which remains one of the world's most renowned centres for musical education to this day. He spent the milder seasons at his estate in Castelnuovo Berardenga – where the grapes for this Gran Selezione ripen today. It represents the pinnacle of the Chianti Classico hierarchy: exclusively Sangiovese from the finest south-facing slopes at altitudes of between 280 and 360 metres, where sun and wind ensure consistent ripening and aromatic complexity. Strictly limited yields of 50 quintals per hectare, twelve days of temperature-controlled fermentation, followed by a further ten days of maceration on the skins. Then comes patience: at least 24 months in French oak, followed by ageing in the bottle.

The Tenuta di Carleone, situated around Radda in Chianti, covers some 100 hectares: wooded hills, small rivers, fertile plains, interspersed with vines – mainly Sangiovese – and olive trees, some of which are over 60 years old. The estate describes "the elegance of simplicity" as its guiding principle, and this is reflected in its selection process: the finest grapes from all the vineyards, grown on limestone-rich soils, hand-picked, a single grape variety, and nothing else. The aim is to produce an elegant wine that is shaped by its terroir and ages well. The wine remains on the skins for up to two months; fermentation takes place in concrete and open vats, without the addition of yeast. This is followed by one and a half years of ageing, with one-tenth of the wine in new Literstonneaux, and the rest in steel and concrete tanks.

Sauvignon Bianco Rachtl comes from a small micro-location of just 0.4 hectares. It gets its fine flint and graphite nose from the porphyry soils near Unteraicha in the municipality of Völs. Very subtle on the palate with fine saline acidity, fresh fruit and a long-lasting finish. If you can call one of the 2,000 bottles of this vintage your own, you can count yourself lucky! SUPERIORE.DE

The white enigma of Bolgheri. In a region that has earned its immortality through Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, few dare to make history with white wine. Yet Cinzia Merli took that risk – and in 1991, with the Paleo Bianco, she created the white counterpart to her legendary red Paleo range. What began as a modest creation for local restaurants has evolved into one of Italy's most enigmatic and sought-after white wines. The name – derived from "pagliaio", the Tuscan word for haystack – shares the same poetic spirit as its red counterpart, yet its character is entirely its own. 70% Chardonnay and 30% Sauvignon Blanc blend here to form a symphony of Mediterranean intensity, translating international grape varieties into the Tuscan terroir. Originally, Sauvignon Blanc dominated this blend, but over the decades Cinzia has reversed the proportions – an evolution that has taken the Paleo Bianco from the citrus freshness of its youth to the structured complexity that characterises it today.

This is the top wine from Il Poggione, and it is a must for anyone who collects wines from this famous vineyard. The estate's oldest parcel, Vigna Paganelli, is a 12-hectare vineyard that was planted back in 1964. It boasts a rich variety of old Sangiovese clones, which are used for the newer plantings.

Federico Giuntini-Antinori runs the area's most traditional estate, whose family tree can be traced back to the 15th century. Rufina is the northernmost district in Chianti, where the vineyards grow around the Villa di Selvapiana and in the vineyards of San Martino a Quona, Pian de' Marroni and Cerbognole. Mainly Sangiovese with small additions of Canaiolo, Colorino and Malvasia Nera are harvested between the end of September and the beginning of October, partly by hand. Spontaneous fermentation takes place in steel tanks at 28-30°C with a 25-day maceration period. Maturation lasts 12 months in 25-litre French oak barrels and concrete vats.

Pietradonice 2020 is so easy and pleasant to drink that it is almost dangerous: the bottle is finished much quicker than you would like. In Montalcino, there are few alternatives to the local Sangiovese grape, and wines of this quality made from Cabernet Sauvignon can be counted on one hand. Rich, dark ruby red in colour, followed by ripe aromas of blackberries, plums, spices and sweet tobacco. Complex and multi-layered on the palate, with wonderfully polished tannins and already a beautiful accessibility. Juicy on the attack and on the palate, very well-developed fruit, monumentally long final. Giacomo Neri's Pietradonice is Cabernet Sauvignon at the highest level and has become a legend, as there is hardly a wine in Montalcino that can even come close to equalling it. SUPERIORE.DE

Sauvignon Bianco Rachtl comes from a small micro-location of just 0.4 hectares. It gets its fine flint and graphite nose from the porphyry soils near Unteraicha in the municipality of Völs. Very subtle on the palate with fine saline acidity, fresh fruit and a long-lasting finish. If you can call one of the 2,000 bottles of this vintage your own, you can count yourself lucky! SUPERIORE.DE

Five years of patience for a single moment in the glass. When Donnafugata and Dolce&Gabbana decided to crown their Sicilian kinship with a sparkling wine, they knew that a Metodo Classico of distinction takes time. The grapes – exclusively Nerello Mascalese from the slopes of Mount Etna – were harvested that autumn, when no one yet realised how long the journey would take. Thirty-six months on the lees, followed by a further two years of waiting.