Doctor Wine | 95-100 points

Bertone – almost two hectares, planted in 2001 with Burgundian clones for great finesse – on the slope opposite the Cru Pernice. 400 metres, south to south-west facing, directly above Villa Fornace, the family's historic residence. Calcareous, clayey soil with sand and silt, a dry microclimate that accelerates ripening and concentrates the grapes. Small like a Burgundian plot, consistent like a family decision. 2021 was a year of balance at Oltrepò Pavese: a long, cool spring, a dry and structured summer. Fermentation in conical wooden vats, malolactic fermentation in barriques in spring, then twelve months in carefully selected French barrels of various origins – followed by at least one year in the bottle.

Sangioveto, made from 100% organic Sangiovese, is grown in cool vineyards at altitudes of between 260 and 370 metres, facing south-west. In the past, Sangiovese was known as "Sangioveto" or "San Zoveto". It represents a refined expression of this particular part of the appellation and a very faithful interpretation of the Tuscan grape. Radiant ruby red in colour, the Sangiovese's broad aromatic spectrum ranges from lovely vanilla notes to hints of raspberries and blackberries. Dense and creamy-smooth on the palate, it offers a harmonious blend of tannins, spice and power, with a precisely balanced acidity. It leaves a lasting and impressive finish. SUPERIORE.DE

There are wines that define an appellation. And there are wines that show where an appellation can go. The Gran Selezione from Lilliano belongs to the second category. When the Chianti Classico producers created the new top of the quality pyramid in 2010, there was a great deal of scepticism: is there really a need for another category above the Riserva? Lilliano answered this question with deeds rather than words. While other estates defined their Gran Selezione with an international use of wood and concentrated opulence, Lilliano remained true to its line: tradition, terroir, typicity. The Gran Selezione comes exclusively from the two best single vineyards of the Tenuta – piagge and Casina, both situated at an altitude of around 300 metres, both characterised by the calcareous Alberese soils that make Castellina in Chianti one of the most mineral terroirs in the entire appellation. Piagge is south-facing, fully exposed to the sun, and produces Sangiovese of concentration and vigour. Casina, on the other hand, exposed to the east-south-east, produces Colorino and Sangiovese of elegance and aromatic finesse. Together they produce a cuvée of 90% Sangiovese and 5% each of Colorino and Merlot – an assemblage that seeks perfection within the rules rather than innovation.

"La Firma" – "The Signing". The names of Gerardo Giuratrabocchetti's wines are a nod to his father's career as a notary. La Firma is a single-varietal Aglianico, aged in natural caves formed from volcanic tuff, Karat and French oak barrels. A beautiful ruby red with bright violet highlights. A complex bouquet with aromas of small black berries, liquorice and hay. Powerful and very harmonious on the palate, characterised by velvety tannins and a long, balsamic finish. Excellent ageing potential! SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for the Vigna Pedale come from vines that are over 30 years old. The vines are planted in a sapling system, which allows only a few grapes per vine. The harvest does not begin until mid-October, which is very unusual for this location so far south. Purple dark red colour. Spicy aroma of cherries, thyme, wild mushrooms and earth, the typical, unadulterated flavour is strong and concentrated with a subtle sweetness. This wine is already a great pleasure today, but still has potential for the coming years. SUPERIORE.DE

Vigna Crivelli is one of the most renowned white wine vineyards in the South Tyrolean Unterland. Named after Count Crivelli, a leading member of an ancient noble family from Margreid, the Chardonnay thrives here on alluvial soils of fine sand with silt and clay deposits under ideal conditions. The unique microclimate of this single vineyard is characterised by strong downdrafts from the Fennberg and the daily southerly wind, the ‘Ora’, which ensures perfect aeration of the grapes. The marked day-night temperature fluctuations allow for a long ripening period with optimal aroma development. The vines are planted on low-growth rootstocks and trained using the Guyot system.

The "Sassorosso" vineyard is located on a rocky promontory that is separated from the rest of the mountain and has been almost completely eroded by the glacier over the centuries. It is visually characterised by the unmistakable red colour of the ferrous inclusions in the rock. The overlying shallow soil layer consists of clay and sand and lies on friable, metamorphic rock into which the roots can penetrate. The unmistakably elegant and mineral character of the terroir is therefore particularly evident in this Nebbiolo.

Rosso del Conte was Sicily's first answer to the question of whether the island could produce wines of international standing and longevity. Conte Giuseppe posed this question in 1970 – and the answer has been contained in every bottle produced on the high hills of Tenuta Regaleali ever since. The grapes – Nero d'Avola, Perricone and a small proportion of other varieties grown on the estate – ripen at an altitude of 480 metres, facing south-southeast, on loamy-sandy, slightly calcareous soil, trained using the Alberello system. Hand-harvested, traditionally fermented in stainless steel at a controlled temperature, 20 days on the skins, 18 months in new French barriques.

Conte Vistarino's Pinot Nero Pernice, which is great every year, comes from the single vineyard of the same name and fascinates with its fine fragrance and elegance. Intense ruby red colour with garnet reflections. The bouquet is complex and rich with notes of violets and small red fruits, some roasted coffee and cocoa. Elegant, full-bodied on the palate, with present fruit, very balanced with a pleasant minerality and a long, spicy finish. The harmonious tannins make this wine elegant and give it a good backbone from start to finish. SUPERIORE.DE

This Riesling is an exceptional phenomenon: it grows on the black, barren lava soils of northern Etna at an altitude of almost 900 metres – in a microclimate that is almost alpine. The grapes come from the historic Contrada Sciaranuova, a place shaped by the massive eruption of 1614. Wines of salty tension, cool precision and a depth that is unrivalled in southern Italy are produced here. Fermentation and ageing take place exclusively in stainless steel in order to preserve freshness and pure expression of origin. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with a silver sheen. Crystal-clear citrus notes, green apple, white peach, smoke and a fine hint of petrol on the nose – subtle, not overpowering. Vibrant and slender on the palate, with focussed acidity, mineral density and a long, almost crystalline final. Great with oysters, scallops or purist Japanese cuisine. SUPERIORE.DE

Bellovedere is one of La Valentina's iconic wines: Pure Montepulciano from the single vineyard of the same name in the Terre dei Vestini subzone, vinified only in exceptional vintages. 2021 was one such vintage: harmonious weather conditions with cool nights and a healthy harvest resulted in grapes with structure, depth and great aromatic balance. Fermentation takes place over 30 days in conical wooden fermenters, with ageing in a combination of barriques, tonneaux and cement – a finely balanced style between concentration and finesse.

Vigna San Francesco Cabernet Sauvignon is in a class of its own amongst Sicilian red wines – not a Mediterranean oddity, but an expressive, distinguished example of its grape variety, grown at an altitude of 570 metres in the cool vineyards of the Tenuta Regaleali estate in the heart of Sicily. The San Francesco plot, planted with Cabernet since 1985, rests on calcareous clay soils, whose structure and drainage lend the wine precision, depth and vigour.

The small 2-hectare Sant'Eusanio vineyard is located approximately 500 metres above sea level in the highest zone of the entire Valle-Reale area. What distinguishes this vineyard from the others in Popoli is its northern exposure and the temperature differences between day and night, which can reach the lowest temperatures in the valley. These factors lead to extreme microclimatic conditions under which the grapes of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Sant'Eusanio ripen, making it a unique wine. It is an uncompromising expression of Montepulciano from the mountains and speaks a dynamic language of acidity and freshness that contrasts sharply with the body and structure of the wines grown in the coastal zone of the region.

Guardiola is a name of some standing on Mount Etna. One of Sicily's highest and steepest cru sites, situated between 800 and 1,000 metres above sea level, exposed to the harsh sun, cool winds and the contrasts of a volcanic climate – a combination that shapes not only the landscape but also the character of the wine. The vines – predominantly Nerello Mascalese – are deeply rooted in lava rock and volcanic ash; the soil is poor, black and mineral-rich, a barren terroir that does not pit power against elegance, but rather unites them. The vintage brought ideal conditions for a wine with a firm yet approachable structure: following a cool spring, the grapes ripened under consistently warm summer sun, accompanied by marked day-night temperature variations. The harvest took place late, by hand, in small crates – a crucial moment for precision and balance. Following spontaneous fermentation, the wine was matured in French oak barrels – not to dominate the wine, but to give it definition.

In 1959, Count Giuseppe Tasca d'Almerita planted Perricone and Nero d'Avola on the San Lucio hill using the Alberello system – an investment in a future that hardly any Sicilian could have imagined at the time. In 1970, the first vintage was released: the first single-vineyard wine the island had ever produced. The 2012 vintage showcases the blend in its most complex form: 63% Nero d'Avola forms the foundation, complemented by 37% of other red varieties from the estate, including Perricone and small proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. Traditional red wine fermentation in stainless steel, 20 days' contact with the skins, full malolactic fermentation, followed by 18 months in newLiters made from Allier and Tronçais oak.

2017 was a year of drought in Sicily. Little rain, high temperatures, a yield of just 67 double centners per hectare – significantly below what San Lucio usually produces in more balanced years. The vines, accustomed for decades to this barren, calcareous soil, weathered the drought with the serenity of old Alberello vines. The blend for this vintage returns closely to the original proportions of 1959: 58% Nero d'Avola, 42% Perricone. Hand-harvested at 480 metres, south-southeast exposure, traditional fermentation in stainless steel, 20 days' maceration, 18 months in new French barriques made from Allier and Tronçais oak.

The single vineyard Bufaleffi is considered one of the most historic cru zones around Pachino, the historic heart of Nero d'Avola. The deep red soils with a high iron and lime content, the hot climate tempered by the sea air at night and the organic cultivation form the foundation of this single vineyard wine. The ungrafted vines are over fifty years old, the yield is low and the harvest is selective and manual. After the classic mash fermentation, the wine matures for over two years in used barriques and then for a long time in the bottle – this gives it density, structure and expression.

The year was 1090, the year in which Leif Erikson discovered North America, the Chinese discovered gunpowder and Pope Urban II conquered Jerusalem. On that day, the notary Bellundo recorded a contract in the Siena state archives: two capons, three loaves of bread and six coins of good silver as an annual lease for a vineyard in the divine valley of Dievole. "Dio vuole" – god wants it. This is the etymological root of this name, which has symbolised the special connection between man and nature in this corner of Tuscany for over nine centuries.

Anadûron – this is the Celtic name for Naturns. Translated, it means "settlement on the marsh". A strange name for a village that lies on dry primary rock, criss-crossed by porphyry, granite and slate, on steep south-facing slopes between 600 and 900 metres. Not a trace of the swamp. Instead, thousands of years of geology speak through every glass of this wine. Franz Pratzner has created Anadûron as a tribute to Naturns and the entire Adige Valley – a selection of the estate's best Riesling parcels, which differs from regular Riesling not only in the selection, but in every step of the vinification process. Grapes of hand-picked quality, spontaneous fermentation in French tonneaux – not in large acacia wood barrels – followed by twelve months of ageing in tonneaux, five months in steel and finally 31 months in the bottle. Around four years from harvestto glass. No other wine from the estate is given more time.

Count Giuseppe Tasca d'Almerita created the first expression of the highest quality and longevity in Sicilian viticulture in 1970 with the Rosso del Conte – a wine that changed the oenological future of the island forever. The grapes come from the Vigna San Lucio, Regaleali's first large vineyard, born in 1959 at an altitude of 480 metres with a south-south-easterly exposure, where Nero d'Avola and Perricone have thrived in harmonious symbiosis for generations. The vines grow in the Alberello system, the oldest form of cultivation in the Mediterranean, on yellow-brown, loamy-sandy soils with calcareous inclusions. A philosophy of perfection that has developed over five decades through various ageing methods: from the original chestnut barrels to Slavonian oak and today's French barriques.

In 1974, the Frescobaldi family at Nipozzano produced a wine for the first time from a single, clearly defined plot: Montesodi, named after the stony, hard soil that gives this site its character – a single-varietal Sangiovese, bottled separately vintage by vintage. It was the estate's first cru. The vines are situated at 400 metres, in south-west-facing schist soils, at an altitude that lends the Sangiovese here structure and an almost alpine coolness during the nights. Harvested by hand into 15-kilo crates and sorted on the selection table, the wine undergoes fermentation and maceration before malolactic fermentation takes place. It is aged for 18 months in 30-hectolitre barrels made of Austrian and French oak, followed by a further period of ageing in the bottle.

In 1220, the name "Bauda" appears for the first time in a document defining the boundaries of neighbouring estates, as the ancient name of the family to whom the land had belonged for centuries. In 1891, the tenor Giovanni Battista De Negri purchased the estate, using it as a summer residence and artists' salon, and named it Villa De Negri; however, the old name, Olim Bauda, remained on the gate. After 1919, the two parts, Bauda and Bauda Bassa, were sold separately. In 1961, Agostino Bertolino acquired the manor house. Following his untimely death in 1987, production ceased until 1998, when his children Dino, Diana and Gianni took over; in 2009, the Bertolinos reunited the two parts. The wine is made entirely from Barbera grapes and comes from the best rows of the vineyard in Incisa Scapaccino, which has been in the family since 1961. The soils are clay-sandy marl with limestone, formed in the sea; shell fragments can still be found amongst the vines. Fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled wooden vats, after which the wine matures for around three years in 25-hectolitre French oak barrels.

The project aims to highlight the link between the vines, the wines and their territorial origins. The Mastroberardino family wants to recreate the style of winemaking of the indigenous grape varieties of Irpinia (Greco, Fiano and Aglianico) that took place between the late 1950s and early 1970s for the Taurasi and between 1970 and 1980 for the two white wines from Irpinia. It is the unmistakable style (the stilèma) of a family that has interpreted the natural heritage of its territory over generations and that today impressively emphasises the genuine character of the terroir, which by no means can be expressed through high concentration and intensity alone.