wines

In 1966, when the Italian wine world was at a crossroads, Domenico Poggiali took the bold step of acquiring the then neglected lands of Castelnuovo Berardenga. His son-in-law Giuseppe Mazzocolin, the humanist professor and friend of Luigi Veronelli, subsequently turned this adventure into a legend. Together with the young OenologistFranco Bernabei, they created the first Berardenga in 1967 – a Sangiovese that epitomises the true essence of south-eastern Chianti Classico. The vineyards extend over the geologically heterogeneous terraces between 320 and 420 metres above sea level, where quartz-rich sandstone and calcareous Alberese in the upper areas meet sandstone and clay towards the Crete Senesi. This "Terra di Confine" – the borderland between Chianti Classico and the Colli Senesi – characterises the unmistakable character.

Standing in the shadow of great Brunellos is not an easy fate. The San Jacopo knows this fate – and makes the best of it. Fuligni himself calls it a "variation on the theme of Sangiovese", and that is exactly what it is: an elegant deviation from the strict rules, an experiment with freedom. 85% Sangiovese, obtained from younger clones from the various vineyards, meets 15% Merlot from the Bandita estate, where the tuff and clay soils are favourable to the international grape variety. Paolo Vagaggini, Fuligni's Oenologist for decades, vinifies the grapes separately and then blends them into a harmonious whole. Maturation takes place for around seven months in French tonneaux, which give the wine structure without dominating it.

A grape variety like a secret: Rosenmuskateller migrated from Sicily to the Alps in the middle of the 19th century and found its second home on the alluvial soils of the Anreiterhof farm in Moritzing near Bolzano. Today it is one of the rarest grape varieties in South Tyrol – and the Rosis from the Bolzano winery is one of its finest interpreters. After harvest, the select grapes are subjected to natural air-drying, which concentrates their flavours and intensifies their sweetness. Temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel and patient bottle ageing preserve the delicate fullness of flavour.

With the acquisition of Tenuta Le Macioche in 2017, the Cotarella family fulfilled a dream: a foothold in prestigious Montalcino. The Sangiovese vines thrive on just 3.5 hectares in the southern quadrant of Sant'Antimo, where Galestro, slate and clay form the subsoil at an altitude of 450 metres. The name of the estate is derived from the Corbezzolo bushes, whose roots are called "macioca" in the Tuscan dialect – a symbol of deep roots in the terroir. The Rosso di Montalcino is the more accessible brother of Brunello, ready to drink earlier: 100 per cent Sangiovese, fermented in stainless steel after selective hand-picking and then matured for twelve months in Liters tonneaux. The Mediterranean climate with continental influences and the strong thermal fluctuations between day and night give the wine its characteristic aromatic precision.

When a winery uses the same label for its Riserva for over sixty years, it is not a lack of imagination – it is an attitude. Castello di Monsanto's Riserva is one of the oldest labels in continuous production in Italy. The label was already there before Chianti Classico was an appellation. It has survived decades and fashions – and it explains what Monsanto stands for: Sangiovese as a conviction. The winery is located in San Donato in Poggio, the westernmost sub-region of Chianti Classico, at an altitude of 280 to 320 metres. Galestro – schistose rock, barren and mineral-rich – is the soil on which the Sangiovese vines from four vineyards take root.

In the local dialect, ‘Giatl’ means ‘small plot of land’ – and this name is steeped in history. The ten-hectare single vineyard in the valley floor of Kurtinig a.d.W. is one of the most exceptional terroirs for Pinot Grigio in the South Tyrolean Unterland. On sandy alluvial soils with calcareous gravel, vines grafted onto low-vigor rootstocks thrive here under ideal conditions, trained using the Guyot system. The unique microclimate of this sun-drenched spot is shaped by two contrasting wind systems: the warm ‘Ora’ blows northwards from Lake Garda in the afternoons, tempering the daytime heat, whilst at night cool downdrafts from the Dolomites provide relief. These extreme temperature fluctuations allow for long, slow ripening phases whilst perfectly preserving acidity and concentrating the aromas. Following hand-harvesting and destemming, a short cold maceration takes place to emphasise the fruitiness. The gently pressed grapes are clarified through natural sedimentation before alcoholic fermentation takes place in small and large French oak barrels (12 months) and in stainless steel tanks (6 months). Yeast ageing lends the wine valuable complexity and depth, whilst further months of bottle ageing round off its profile.

A perfect introduction to the impressive craft of a young winemaker who has already come a long way on her way to the top. Here, Nebbiolo comes into the glass in purezza, the ageing partly in 500 Liters tonneaux and stainless steel interprets it – giulia Negri's vision – unadulterated and without distractions. Bright ruby red in colour, with a bouquet of small red berries, damp forest floor and a subtle hint of violets. Impressively elegant and supple on the palate, the Nebbiolo always remains taut and cool. In the final, the dark fruit beguiles with a freshness and juiciness that never seems opulent, but carries the tension into the long finish. SUPERIORE.DE

When a wine is named after the founder and mastermind of what is probably the most famous and popular winery in the Modena region, then you should take a closer look, or even better, reach for the bottle. This exceptional sparkling wine is produced using the blanc de noirs method, i.e. a white spumante from red grapes - certainly not an everyday occurrence in the Lambrusco world.

Gioia del Colle is an Italian municipality near Bari and probably the most famous DOC for Primitivo wines. The wines from this appellation embody a straightforward, fresh style and are far removed from the usual jammy suspects. The vines here grow at altitudes of up to 450 metres above sea level, the nights are cooler here than elsewhere in Apulia and the wines have a racier, tighter style and more structure than their namesakes.

A Pinot Nero from Franz Haas is a textbook expression every year and a benchmark throughout South Tyrol, with bright aromas of blueberries, violets and lavender rising gracefully from the bouquet. This is pure cool climate in the glass. On the palate, it is taut and silky and always beautifully polished and streamlined in a positive sense. This is a beautiful, complex and exceptionally exciting Pinot Nero from a master hand. SUPERIORE.DE

An outstanding red wine with origin and personality: "Vicorosso" combines 80% Merlot with 20% Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso - a cuvée that embodies international elegance and regional expression in equal measure. The grapes come from old, slow-growing vines on the typical Ponca soils between Prepotto and Buttrio. After selective hand-picking, the wine matured for around 15 months in French barriques before harmonising for a few months in the bottle. Dense ruby red in the glass with violet reflections. The rich bouquet of black cherry, blackberry and plum is finely underpinned by violets, liquorice, tobacco leaf and graphite. The palate combines juicy fruit, fine-grained tannins and lively acidity in great balance, supported by a hint of salty minerality on the finish. The wine has a precise, compact and stimulating effect at the same time - an (almost) modern Friulian red wine with depth. SUPERIORE.DE

The delicious Salealto consists of Insolia, Zibibbo and Grillo and was matured for approx. 10 months on the fine lees in stainless steel. Deep golden yellow in colour with green reflections. Open nose with hints of beeswax, yellow flowers, acacia, red apple and green pepper. Very refreshing on the palate, low acidity, a fine saline note and wonderful fruit flavours. Herbal spice and expansive fruit with beautiful freshness on the deep finish - be sure to aerate. SUPERIORE.DE

The first 1,850 Pinot Noir vines were brought to Italy from Burgundy by Count Vistarino back in 1865. Since then, the vinification of this demanding grape variety has been continuously refined over the generations. Today, the Pinot Noirs from the winegrowing dynasty can even outshine much more expensive Pinot Noirs from Burgundy at international tastings. Tavernetto is the estate's third cru, named after the 1.71-hectare vineyard where the grapes grow magnificently at an altitude of 250 metres to 325 metres and a south-southeast exposure. It is considered the most balanced of the Tenuta's vineyards, with the most evenly positive results. The calcareous subsoil of the single vineyard is ideal for Pinot Nero, resulting in a top wine of great personality.

Giovanni Neri bought the Podere Casanova to the east of Montalcino in 1971 – as a grain merchant from Montevarchi, fascinated by the austerity of the Sangiovese grape, these hills and their unpredictability. What he could not have known was that his son Giacomo, his grandson Gianlorenzo and his family would turn these slopes into one of the most precise addresses in the entire appellation. The Rosso di Montalcino is their first set. 100% Sangiovese, Massale selection from their own stock – not a clone, but a genetic fingerprint of the estate. Spontaneous fermentation, 18 days on the skins, 12 months maturation in wood. 2024 was a fresh, structured vintage in Montalcino with good acidity and clear fruit – the Rosso carries it with ease.

Terlan is a small village south of Bolzano – and one of Italy’s most exceptional white wine regions. The combination of porphyry rock, calcareous subsoil, marked temperature fluctuations between day and night, and the Alps, which shield the valley from cold Atlantic winds, creates a terroir that gives white wines a longevity unrivalled anywhere else in the world. Founded in 1893, the Cantina Terlan has brought this potential to life like no other in the region.

The grapes for this exceptional dessert wine are harvested at the end of November at the earliest, when the night temperatures fall below zero degrees and a late harvest of the noble rotten fruit is possible in correspondingly high quality. Straw yellow in colour with golden reflections. Opulent bouquet of peach, melon, redcurrant and tropical fruit with the elegance that comes from the noble rot of the very late harvested grapes. The flavour is fresh, full-bodied, highly aromatic and with a well-balanced sweetness. An excellent meditation wine or also ideal with spicy blue cheese, foie gras terrine or dry desserts. SUPERIORE.DE

Capezzana's Trebbiano blossoms in the glass with a sweet floral bouquet of crushed yellow apples, peaches, aniseed, sweet sage and dusty stone. It is round and supple, with a depth of ripe white stone fruit perfectly contrasted by salty minerals and a hint of spice. The fresh acidity provides a nice balance. The finish is long, classically dry and youthfully tense. Already wonderful today, but still needs further bottle ageing to fully develop. SUPERIORE.DE

Canalicchio di Sopras Rosso di Montalcino comes mainly from the vineyards of the Cru Canalicchio with soils that have a pronounced clay component and are very rich in intermediate elements such as magnesium, iron and manganese. Depending on the vintage and climate, a small proportion may also come from the Cru Montosoli, where the presence of marl ensures juiciness and minerality.

A captivating Pinot Nero with a poetic expression of the Langhe terroir: strictly selected grapes from organically farmed vineyards are vinified with the utmost care. After manual harvesting and fermentation, the wine matures for 18 months in tonneaux, which give it structure without masking its freshness. The ageing process combines depth with elegant finesse – an art that Vajra has mastered for many years.

Arnaldo Caprais Montefalco Rosso Riserva shows how much depth and complexity can be achieved with this combination of local varieties. The wine is intense and particularly concentrated thanks to ripe fruit and careful oak ageing. You can feel the power of the Sagrantino tannins, but this power is well measured and under control. With its dark and crunchy fruit, this is a wine that initially makes you bite your teeth out, but which becomes increasingly elegant as it matures in the bottle. SUPERIORE.DE

I Giganti Rosso Tharros consists almost exclusively of Nieddera, an indigenous, little-known grape variety from the Sinis region. The grapes ripen on soils rich in limestone and clay, influenced by the sea breeze and intense sunshine. Careful hand-picking is followed by intensive maceration over 8-10 days, followed by 12 months of ageing in barriques and tonneaux – a combination that gives both depth and elegance. In the glass, it has a deep ruby red colour with lively reflections. The nose is characterised by ripe plum, black cherry and a hint of balsamic herbs, complemented by liquorice and a floral spice. Full-bodied and supple on the palate: seductive fruit meets fine tannins and a clear structure. The texture is velvety, the freshness noticeable and the finish long, mineral and spicy – almost cool in its after-effect.

When Roberto Anselmi talks about his sweet wines, his eyes light up differently. Here, the rebel is suddenly a traditionalist – because I Capitelli stands for the centuries-old Veneto art of creating golden nectar from dried grapes. But where others at least seek DOC recognition for their Recioto di Soave, Roberto once again breaks all the rules: His Passito is simply a "Vino Bianco" – table wine. The most radical form of protest.

Orion here does not mean the constellation, but a border. The Greek "oros" means edge, dividing line – and that is exactly what this path once was: the ancient road that separated Byzantine lands from Lombard lands, today a quiet country lane right next to the Primitivo vineyards of Masseria Li Veli in Cellino San Marco. History you can feel under your feet. 100% Primitivo, harvested at the end of August, limestone-clay soils, 10 to 20 year old vines – partly Alberello, the ancient Apulian bush vine cultivation style. Fermentation in steel, six months in barrique. Roberto Cotarella holds the line.

Petra – the name means "stone" and symbolises the solidity with which Vittorio and Francesca Moretti are realising their Tuscan project in the Maremma. The winery was only opened in 2003 and was designed by Swiss star architect Mario Botta as a circular masterpiece. While perlage reigns supreme in Franciacorta (near Bellavista), it is the great red wines of the Val di Cornia that attract international attention here. Alto is Petra's monovarietal answer to the question of what Sangiovese is capable of achieving in this iron-rich, Mediterranean terroir. Experimental research meets Tuscany's oldest grape variety. The grapes are hand-picked and vinified according to the principle of gravity – mechanical stress is consistently avoided. The wine is matured in oak barrels, followed by further ageing in the bottle.