Wines from Tuscany

In the dizzying heights of Lamole, where Chianti Classico reaches its natural limits, Angela Fronti writes a new chapter in her Sangiovese saga. Elle – the letter that stands for Lamole, but also for "Lei", the feminine elegance that permeates this extraordinary wine. On just 0.45 hectares, scattered across the steep terraces at an altitude of 540 metres, the old vines are rooted in that special Macigno del Chianti – a compact, non-calcareous sandstone that makes Lamole unique in Gallo Nero territory. The Fronti family, proud members of the FIVI (Federazione Italiana Vignaioli Indipendenti), epitomise their philosophy of absolute independence here: from their own vineyard to their own bottle. In Lamole, this magical UGA since 2017, they defy the extremes of altitude with a precision that only decades of experience in viticulture can provide.

For many years, a small and strictly selected portion of the Sangiovese at Istine has been vinified separately according to the origin of the vineyard in order to emphasise and bring out the specific characteristics of the site, the soil and the altitude. Since then, the best grapes from the estate's own vineyards Istine (Radda), Casanova dell'Aia (Radda) and Cavarchione (Gaiole) have been vinified separately, resulting in three now highly sought-after cru wines, of which just 3,000 bottles are sold in specialised shops and restaurants every year.

In the vineyards of Rancia Piccola and Poggiolo, where a Benedictine monastery once watched over the hills of Castelnuovo Berardenga, a quiet revolution has been taking place since 1987. Maestro Raro – the rare master – bears the name of the legendary vineyard parcel, also known as "Mastro Raro", which neighbours the famous Rancia vineyard. Here, the Poggiali family dared to do the seemingly impossible: to breathe the terroir of Fèlsina into the world-famous Cabernet Sauvignon, that magical place where normally only Sangiovese performs at its best.

Angelo Ambrogini was born in Montepulciano in 1454. As a humanist, poet and confidant of Lorenzo de' Medici, he wrote some of the most beautiful stanzas of the Renaissance under the name "Il Poliziano". Le Stanze, his most famous work, is a poem about beauty, transience and the power of the moment. Federico Carletti has named his winery after the great poet. And this wine the title of his masterpiece. This is no coincidence. Le Stanze is Poliziano outside its borders – no Prugnolo Gentile, no DOCG obligation, no looking back. 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, certified organic since 2021: a Super Tuscan. The grapes grow on the best plots around Montepulciano, on clay and limestone soils between 300 and 450 metres above sea level. Hand-picked, fermentation in stainless steel tanks with a long maceration period of 20 to 25 days, 16 months in French barriques – precise, without exaggeration.

A bold experiment that became a success story: In 2000, Valeria Viganò and Luca Orsini ventured into international grape varieties and created Camalaione, a Supertuscan that expresses the special terroir of Panzano in every bottle. This organically certified cuvée of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Syrah and 15% Merlot impressively demonstrates the Orsinis' conviction that the unique interplay of soil and climate can be found in every wine, regardless of the grape variety. The grapes come from the estate's oldest vineyards, where an extreme vine density of 9,000 vines per hectare ensures natural competition and each plant produces no more than 500 grams of grapes. This concentration is also reflected in the exceptional quality of the vintage. Vinification is carried out using traditional methods: spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts in Liters oak barrels, which act as small open fermentation vats and allow regular hand pressing. After fermentation, the wine matures for around 24 months in French barriques, followed by at least twelve months of bottle ageing.

Generous Brunello made from grapes from different vineyards in various sub-zones in Montalcino with the classic aura of its vintage. The aromatically intense bouquet opens with a scent of violets and then develops flavours of wild berries, vanilla, tobacco and chocolate. The flavour is characterised by a good balance between a full, juicy body, soft tannins and well-integrated alcohol. SUPERIORE.DE

Altesino has undoubtedly helped write the history of Brunello. The house was the first to introduce the cru concept in Montalcino, the first to introduce barrique ageing for IGT wines – and was the first to offer its Brunello for subscription. And yet the Annata Brunello is the most honest proof of what Altesino stands for: a style that aims for elegance and finesse, not power for its own sake. Four parcels – altesino, Castelnuovo dell'Abate, Macina and Pianezzine – give the wine its foundation: 100% Sangiovese Grosso from older vines on pliocenic, clay-sandy soils in the eastern hills of Montalcino, at 220 to 280 metres.

"This is the wine with which my experience as a winemaker was born. A wine from a single vineyard in which I frankly find all the characteristics of Bolgheri that I love: clear and juicy fruit, balance. The Merlot brings volume and softness, the Cabernet Sauvignon structure. I give a lot of space to the very Tuscan Sangiovese, which adds complexity and drinkability." Fabio Motta

When Sergio Rossi took over Podere Colombaio from the Biondi-Santi family in 1976, nobody could have guessed that the Milanese advertising expert would become one of the architects of modern Montalcino. He was one of the 24 founders of the Consorzio, one of the first 35 Brunello bottlers of an appellation that will number over 250 by 2024. What he brought with him: the legendary Sangiovese clones of Biondi-Santi, planted on marl and limestone in Canalicchio – vines that are now over forty years old. Brunello 2020 unites two souls: the cool elegance of the north from the historic Canalicchio parcels and the sun-kissed vigour of Castelnuovo dell'Abate in the south. The wine rests for three years in large Slavonian barrels and a further eight months in the bottle – time that you can taste.

Volpaia – the foxhole. High above Radda in Chianti, at 450 to 650 metres above sea level, the vineyards of Castello di Volpaia are located on the highest slopes of the appellation. The medieval borgo, first mentioned in a document in 1172, has belonged to the Mascheroni-Stianti family since 1966, who consistently farm organically here. The altitude shapes the character: sandstone soils, cool nights and long ripening periods give the Sangiovese (supplemented by 10% Merlot) a freshness and elegance that would be hard to achieve in warmer locations. Fermented with indigenous yeasts, matured for twelve months in large oak barrels.

Brilliant, dark ruby colour. Deep bouquet of rich blackberry and cherry flavours with mentholated herbal notes that give it lift, while notes of cedar and clove develop in the glass. On the palate, the wine is a pure silk that slowly lays over the palate, with an admirable density and weight balanced by bright acidity and minerality. This still very young wine is full of potential with a core of dark primary fruit that already offers a good foretaste of the charm of later years. A finely woven tannin structure on the long final. Wonderful ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

On 11 September 2001, a concert was to take place in the hills of Figline Valdarno. Sting was standing on the stage of his Tuscan villa when the news arrived from New York. He played anyway – not as entertainment, but as therapy. That evening, the feeling of emptiness and the search for meaning gave rise to an album two years later: "Sacred Love", a meditation on love as the only answer to a world in chaos. "We have to go back to that basic thing," said Sting at the time, "mother love, father love, husband love, wife love, child love – because when you don't have that, all hell breaks loose."

Located in the south of Montalcino, Ciacci Piccolomini's sprawling estate is characterised by warm, fragrant afternoon breezes from the Mediterranean. The wines are typically very fragrant and have a higher alcohol content, but also plenty of freshness and focus. In the aromas we find sun-kissed cherries and raspberries, red roses, tobacco, sage and thyme. Light-footed on the palate with grainy tannins that dissolve easily, this wine is already very accessible. It is literally fuelled by the golden light that falls on this part of Tuscany in the last hours of the day. A wine full of personality and identity. SUPERIORE.DE

The name Cont'Ugo refers to a Tuscan nobleman named Ugo della Gherardesca, whose family has been linked to the Bolgheri area for centuries. It symbolises the aristocratic character of the Maremma, which can still be felt today in combination with the wild coastal landscape. For Marchese Antinori, owner of the Guado al Tasso winery, the name is a tribute to origin and character: noble, independent and deeply rooted. The 2022 vintage of this single-varietal Merlot comes from high-altitude, well-aerated plots with loamy soils and is matured for 12 months in French oak, partly new and partly used.

Swiss precision meets Tuscan passion: Monika and Thomas Bär-Bettschart have been realising their dream at the Antico Podere Gagliole in Castellina in Chianti since 1990. The Rubiolo 30 anni is a certified organic homage to three decades of winegrowing in one of the most beautiful terroirs in Tuscany. Made from pure Sangiovese grapes from both the historic terraces around Castellina and the famous Conca d'Oro in Panzano, this wine epitomises the synthesis of two exceptional sites. The grapes ripen on soils rich in galestro between 350 and 450 metres above sea level, facing south-west, where the centuries-old dry stone walls – uNESCO World Heritage Site since 2019 – between vines, olive trees and roses create a unique microclimate. After temperature-controlled fermentation with indigenous yeasts and 20 days of maceration, the wine matures for ten months, half in French barriques and half in concrete tanks, followed by three months of bottle ageing.

The Riserva represents the roots of Fattoria Le Pupille – it is the very first wine produced and marketed by the winery. Originally launched in 1978 as "Rosso di Pereta", it became the foundation of a terroir with the establishment of the Morellino di Scansano discipline, which Elisabetta Geppetti led to international recognition with passion and vision. As the first woman to head the Consorzio Morellino di Scansano, she not only shaped the denomination, but also the entire Maremma wine culture. Sangiovese (90%) with Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) from the La Carla, Maiano, Bozzino and Vecchie Pupille vineyards at an altitude of 50 to 250 metres. The soils vary from clayey-silty to sandy-loamy structures with a limestone marl component. After 25 to 30 days of maceration at 26 degrees, the wine matures for twelve months in Slavonian oak barrels with a capacity of 20 to 40 hectolitres.

The structure of Cabernet Sauvignon, the spiciness of Cabernet Franc, the power of Syrah and the softness of Merlot combine here to create a red wine full of character, Mediterranean aromas and elegance. Dark red with a violet edge, fresh fruit bouquet of pomegranate and red currant with balanced hints of thyme, bay leaf and cedar. Initially very fresh and powerful on the palate with memories of raspberry and redcurrant, then round and harmonious, well structured and with soft tannin. SUPERIORE.DE

The vineyard on the western side of the Montalcino hills is so secluded that you can enjoy the starry sky to the full without being disturbed. It is therefore not surprising that this supple, very classic Brunello bears the name "Sky of Ulysses". As is well known, Odysseus had the ability to navigate the seas without a compass and by simply orientating himself by the stars.

This impressive red comes from the single vineyard "Vitticciana", which was created by the "Godfather of Carmignano" Ugo Contini Bonacossi especially for a pure Sangiovese wine due to its perfect orientation. It is only produced in the best years, when it presents itself as a multi-layered wine with fine fruit and fine-grained tannins. After a few years of ageing in the bottle, it can easily hold its own with some of the best Brunello di Montalcino. SUPERIORE.DE

Francesco Illy came to Montalcino as a nature photographer – and stayed. What began as a personal project in 1997 is now one of the most exciting biodynamic wineries in the denomination. Demeter-certified, run by a young team, with a philosophy that does not see perfection and joie de vivre as a contradiction. The "Cielo d'Ulisse" – the sky of Ulysses – comes from the western parcels of Montalcino, near Camigliano. Clayey-sandy soils with Galestro influence, evening sun, cool forest climate: a combination that gives Sangiovese freshness and elegance rather than power. Fermentation takes place spontaneously, ageing lasts three years in large used Slavonian oak barrels.

Rich, dark ruby colour with a slight garnet sheen, very dense bouquet, clear, concentrated and inviting, of fine dark chocolate, lots of blackberry, flowers and liquorice. Intense dark berry fruit flavours on the palate, fine-grained tannins, subtle mineral tones. A great, smooth and very characterful Merlot from the Cortona region with a long finish. SUPERIORE.DE