Wine

Since the 16th century, the Allegrini family has been one of the driving forces behind Valpolicella. Then, at some point, the desire arose to produce a white wine from Lake Garda. The Tenuta Oasi Mantellina in Pozzolengo – on the southern shore of Lake Garda, in the province of Brescia – became their answer. The name reflects what this patch of land is: a natural oasis, rich in biodiversity, swept by the breezes of Lake Garda, set on clay-rich moraine soils that give the Turbiana its characteristic minerality. 96% Turbiana (Trebbiano di Lugana), 4% Cortese, hand-harvested in September, gentle pressing, stainless steel, four months on the fine lees, two months in bottle.

The Negroamaro grapes used to make the exceptionally delicate Calafuria come from vineyards stretching along the Adriatic coast in Salento. The region boasts a long tradition of producing rosé wines from Negroamaro, a grape variety that expresses its full potential best when grown near the sea. Pale pink in colour, with a bouquet of fruity citrus notes of grapefruit and orange blossom, and hints of jasmine. Pleasantly fresh on the palate with excellent aromatic persistence and a delicate flavour. SUPERIORE.DE

Frappato is not really a soloist. Its most famous role is as a duet partner in Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG, where it lends the Nero d'Avola lightness and floral notes. Tasca d'Almerita wondered what would happen if he were taken out of this duet – and grown as a single varietal at the Regaleali winery, far from his home around Vittoria. A research project designed to show: can Frappato, on its own, deliver what it usually only displays when blended? The answer is growing in the Viale delle Noci vineyard, 1.7 hectares, planted in 2017, on deep, loamy soil with a balanced sand-to-clay ratio and a slight limestone content – soil that keeps the vines in balance without encouraging them to become too lush. 460 metres, south-west facing, long Guyot pruning. The vinification follows a clear concept: fermentation in stainless steel at 20°C for 10 days, deliberately omitting malolactic fermentation – to preserve the variety’s natural freshness and vibrancy. Matured in stainless steel, no oak.

In the hills of Parteòlla, where a salty inland lake glistens amongst centuries-old olive trees and the Romanesque church of Santa Maria di Sibiola sends its silent prayers skywards, lies the enchanting Tenuta Iselis. Here, the Argiolas family is bringing a very special project to life: the rediscovery of Nasco, an almost forgotten indigenous grape variety that was once brought to Sardinia by Phoenician sailors. The name Nasco is thought to derive from the Latin "muscus" – musk – a tribute to the extraordinary fragrance of this rare grape. Whilst Nasco is traditionally vinified into sweet wines, Argiolas has opted for the innovative approach of dry vinification: the harvest are harvest a month earlier, resulting in a modern white wine of exceptional elegance.

Stone. The word needs no explanation – and certainly not in South Tyrol. The name describes the soil on which these vines grow: a 150-metre-deep alluvial fan that the Sirmian and Nalles streams have carried down from the mountains into the valley over thousands of years. Alluvial rock, clay, marl – a soil that retains water well, releases heat slowly and gives the Sauvignon Blanc that salty minerality which is immediately apparent in the glass. The vineyards are situated in Nalles, between Bolzano and Merano, at altitudes of 330 to 400 metres, facing east-southeast. The climate is the typical South Tyrolean paradox: warm to hot by day, noticeably cool by night – temperature fluctuations that create aromatic precision and preserve the wine's freshness. 100% Sauvignon Blanc, hand-harvested, fermented in stainless steel for around three weeks, then aged on the lees for five months before bottling.

Aromatic character is the hallmark of this Sauvignon Blanc – more immediate and herbaceous than its other white Merus siblings. Grown on the terraces between Kurtatsch and Margreid, where Tiefenbrunner has for generations harnessed the combination of cool altitudes and warm valleys that is so typical of South Tyrol. Bright yellow with green highlights. The bouquet offers notes of stinging nettle, elderflower, sage and mint – fresh and unmistakable. Elegant and harmonious on the palate, with a juicy, pleasant final. SUPERIORE.DE

A wine that has voluntarily been downgraded. Munus was the flagship among Guerrieri Rizzardi's Bardolino red wines – a Bardolino Superiore DOCG, Italy's highest classification level. Since 2021, it has borne the seemingly more modest title of Rosso Veronese IGT. Not out of negligence, but out of conviction: the DOCG required at least twelve months' ageing in wood for every vintage, and Giuseppe Rizzardi decided that the wine itself should dictate the ageing process, rather than the regulations.

The 2023 vintage brought a balanced climate with warm days and cool nights, which harmoniously combined freshness and ripeness. Martin Foradori's Merlot is characterised by cool noblesse and a clear structure. Dark berries, fine herbs and a hint of graphite characterise the bouquet. The ageing partly in large wooden barrels and partly in cement eggs gives the wine depth without excess weight. The palate is juicy, precise and supported by silky tannins - a South Tyrolean Merlot of quiet sovereignty and terroir-related elegance. SUPERIORE.DE

Grignolino is one of the most underrated grape varieties in Piedmont – and Braida firmly believes in it. The name reveals where the structure comes from: "Limo" means silt, and the soil on the hills of Rocchetta Tanaro contains plenty of it. 40% silt, 30% sand and 30% clay give the wine its unmistakable backbone. The vines planted in 2010 are densely planted – 5,500 per hectare – and face south and east. Vinified exclusively in steel, four months of tank ageing and two months of bottle ageing preserve freshness and varietal character.

In the 1820s, wine merchants knew three Bardolino crus that existed in Switzerland's grand hotels alongside Burgundy and Beaujolais. In 1968, they were lost in the DOC regulations. They have been back since 2021 – and Montebaldo, the northernmost and highest subzone on the foothills of Monte Baldo, is perhaps the most exciting. Guerrieri Rizzardi's response to this rediscovery: 95 per cent Corvina – the highest percentage the winery has ever bottled –supplemented by a touch of Rondinella, vinified completely without wood. This is not a concession to light summer enjoyment. It is a statement about transparency: the grape speaks exclusively here, and the moraine soil of Cavaion gives it a resonance chamber.

Behind the Castello di Soave, invisible to the tourists enjoying the view of the plain, lies a vineyard that epitomises the opposite of what Soave has been for decades. No mass product, no compromise. Ferra is single-varietal Garganega from volcanic gravel – of a hilltop that has belonged to the Rizzardi family since 1977 and has been bottled as a single vineyard since 2014. What makes this Soave stand out from the standard, pleasing wines: Garganega gets the full stage here. Fermentation in glazed cement tanks preserves the mineral precision, while six months in large foudres give the wine texture, depth and richness that go far beyond what is expected from the appellation.

Whilst Andreola's Rive wines each bring a single vineyard to the glass, the Dirupo tells a different story: that of the entire Denominazione. For this Brut, Stefano Pola draws on the privilege of a network of vineyards stretching across all 15 municipalities of the Valdobbiadene DOCG – from gentle slopes at 200 metres to the extremely steep slopes at 500 metres, on calcareous marl, sandstone, conglomerates and deep clay soils. No other wine from the estate reflects the territory so fully. The choice of grape varieties underlines this approach: 90% Glera, complemented by Bianchetta and Perera – two indigenous varieties of the hills that have long since disappeared from standard Prosecco and which, as quiet contributors here, enrich the aromatic depth.

Rhine Riesling in South Tyrol? What sounds unusual at first glance makes perfect sense in the valley floor around Kurtinig. The loose, well-aerated sandy soils with calcareous gravel offer ideal conditions for the demanding Rheinriesling. The microclimate does the rest: the warm afternoon wind from Lake Garda alternates with cool morning breezes from the north, ensuring constant ventilation from April to October. The grapes undergo a 6–8-hour cold maceration before pressing – a process that releases the fine fruit flavours from the skins. Fermentation takes place at a controlled 19 °C in stainless steel.

The aromatic soul of South Tyrol. Gewürztraminer is considered the most typical of all South Tyrolean white wines – full-bodied and unmistakably aromatic. At Peter Zemmer, this grape variety grows on low-growing rootstock in the Guyot system, in the best vineyard sites on the valley floor around Kurtinig at 220–230 metres above sea level. The favourable location, ideal sunshine and good aeration of the grapes create ideal conditions for this demanding variety. After destemming, a six to eight-hour cold maceration follows, which transfers the valuable flavours from the skins into the must and intensifies the characteristic bouquet. Gentle pressing and subsequent fermentation at a controlled temperature of 19 °C in stainless steel preserve the varietal aromas in all their splendour.

Arneis – once almost extinct, today Piedmont's white pride. The Poggio di Caro comes from the heart of the Roero: the 20 to 25-year-old vines are rooted in the characteristic sandy soils around Canale, where Enrico Serafino has been at home since 1878. After being harvested by hand, the grapes are cooled with carbonic acid snow and undergo a 12 to 15-hour cold maceration before being gently fermented in stainless steel. Three months of bottle ageing round off the wine.

450 metres above sea level, on stony limestone soils around Tramin and Montan: this is where Sauvignon Blanc finds those striking day-night fluctuations that make its aromatic intensity possible in the first place. The mild, sunny climate of Bassa Atesina ensures optimum ripeness, while cool nights preserve the flavours. In the cellar, the grapes undergo an 8–10-hour cold maceration – longer than the other white wines from the estate –to release the full flavour potential from the skins. After gentle pressing and natural sedimentation, the must ferments at 19 °C in stainless steel.

Harmonious, velvety Pinot Noir from vineyards at an altitude of around 450 metres. These hills with special conglomerate soils of clay and limestone and the very suitable microclimate form the ideal conditions for a clear Pinot Nero full of character. Bright ruby to garnet red in colour. Fine, ripe aroma of dark berries and sour cherry. Harmonious and soft on the palate with a good balance of fruit and body. SUPERIORE.DE

Federico II di Svevia, Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire and King of Sicily, had a special affection for the hills around Monte Vulture. Here, in Basilicata, he had castles built that still stand today. And he loved the wines of the Vulture – those deep, mineral reds that came from the lava soils of the extinct volcano. The Terre degli Svevi estate, founded in 1998, honours his legacy with the name of its flagship wine: Re Manfredi – king Manfred, his son, the fearless warrior. 100% Aglianico, grown at 420 metres in Venosa, on volcanic soil rich in calcium, nitrogen and tuff – the mineral foundation on which the character of this wine is built. A continental climate with harsh winters, hot summers and pronounced temperature fluctuations.

A red wine with character – irresistible in its depth and yet with supple elegance. Noras comes from 90% Cannonau (Grenache) and 10% Carignano and is harvested from old vines rooted in sandy-granitic soils deep in the Sulcis terroir. After late manual harvesting, the must ferments at a controlled 22-24 °C for 12 days in stainless steel tanks, accompanied by regular pumping over to optimise extraction. Malolactic fermentation takes place early and spontaneously, followed by around six months of maturation in used French barriques. Before it is released for sale, Noras matures for a further six months in the bottle – a maturation and ageing process that gives it depth and elegance.

A Fiano with inner peace and clear origins: Montelapio comes from high altitude vineyards around Lapio. The volcanic, mineral-rich soils give the wine elegant grip and balance. Delicate golden yellow colour. Harmoniously balanced aromas on the nose: yellow apple, white flowers, a hint of rock sugar, salty herbal notes and delicate hazelnut. On the palate, it is fruity with a clear structure and lively acidity that creates a youthful tension. The mineral finish is gently lingering and ends with a feeling of persistence that lingers for a long time.