Wine

A wine that was voluntarily relegated. Munus was the flagship among the Bardolino red wines from Guerrieri Rizzardi – a Bardolino Superiore DOCG, Italy's highest classification level. Since 2021, it has borne the seemingly more modest title of Rosso Veronese IGT. Not out of negligence, but out of conviction: The DOCG required at least twelve months of wood in each vintage, and Giuseppe Rizzardi decided that the wine should dictate the ageing process – not the regulations.

Grignolino is one of the most underrated grape varieties in Piedmont – and Braida firmly believes in it. The name reveals where the structure comes from: "Limo" means silt, and the soil on the hills of Rocchetta Tanaro contains plenty of it. 40% silt, 30% sand and 30% clay give the wine its unmistakable backbone. The vines planted in 2010 are densely planted – 5,500 per hectare – and face south and east. Vinified exclusively in steel, four months of tank ageing and two months of bottle ageing preserve freshness and varietal character.

In the 1820s, wine merchants knew three Bardolino crus that existed in Switzerland's grand hotels alongside Burgundy and Beaujolais. In 1968, they were lost in the DOC regulations. They have been back since 2021 – and Montebaldo, the northernmost and highest subzone on the foothills of Monte Baldo, is perhaps the most exciting. Guerrieri Rizzardi's response to this rediscovery: 95 per cent Corvina – the highest percentage the winery has ever bottled –supplemented by a touch of Rondinella, vinified completely without wood. This is not a concession to light summer enjoyment. It is a statement about transparency: the grape speaks exclusively here, and the moraine soil of Cavaion gives it a resonance chamber.

The 2023 vintage brought a balanced climate with warm days and cool nights, which harmoniously combined freshness and ripeness. Martin Foradori's Merlot is characterised by cool noblesse and a clear structure. Dark berries, fine herbs and a hint of graphite characterise the bouquet. The ageing partly in large wooden barrels and partly in cement eggs gives the wine depth without excess weight. The palate is juicy, precise and supported by silky tannins - a South Tyrolean Merlot of quiet sovereignty and terroir-related elegance. SUPERIORE.DE

Behind the Castello di Soave, invisible to the tourists enjoying the view of the plain, lies a vineyard that epitomises the opposite of what Soave has been for decades. No mass product, no compromise. Ferra is single-varietal Garganega from volcanic gravel – of a hilltop that has belonged to the Rizzardi family since 1977 and has been bottled as a single vineyard since 2014. What makes this Soave stand out from the standard, pleasing wines: Garganega gets the full stage here. Fermentation in glazed cement tanks preserves the mineral precision, while six months in large foudres give the wine texture, depth and richness that go far beyond what is expected from the appellation.

While the Rive wines from Andreola each bring a single vineyard to the glass, the Dirupo tells a different story: that of the entire denominazione. For this brut, Stefano Pola draws on the privilege of a vineyard network that extends across all 15 municipalities of the Valdobbiadene DOCG – from gentle slopes at 200 metres to extreme steep slopes at 500 metres, on limestone marls, sandstones, conglomerates and deep clay soils. No other wine of the house represents the territory so completely. The choice of grape varieties emphasises this approach: 90% Glera, supplemented by Bianchetta and Perera – two indigenous varieties of the hills, which have long since disappeared from standard Prosecco, but here they quietly contribute to the aromatic depth.

Rhine Riesling in South Tyrol? What sounds unusual at first glance makes perfect sense in the valley floor around Kurtinig. The loose, well-aerated sandy soils with calcareous gravel offer ideal conditions for the demanding Rheinriesling. The microclimate does the rest: the warm afternoon wind from Lake Garda alternates with cool morning breezes from the north, ensuring constant ventilation from April to October. The grapes undergo a 6–8-hour cold maceration before pressing – a process that releases the fine fruit flavours from the skins. Fermentation takes place at a controlled 19 °C in stainless steel.

Arneis – once almost extinct, today Piedmont's white pride. The Poggio di Caro comes from the heart of the Roero: the 20 to 25-year-old vines are rooted in the characteristic sandy soils around Canale, where Enrico Serafino has been at home since 1878. After being harvested by hand, the grapes are cooled with carbonic acid snow and undergo a 12 to 15-hour cold maceration before being gently fermented in stainless steel. Three months of bottle ageing round off the wine.

450 metres above sea level, on stony limestone soils around Tramin and Montan: this is where Sauvignon Blanc finds those striking day-night fluctuations that make its aromatic intensity possible in the first place. The mild, sunny climate of Bassa Atesina ensures optimum ripeness, while cool nights preserve the flavours. In the cellar, the grapes undergo an 8–10-hour cold maceration – longer than the other white wines from the estate –to release the full flavour potential from the skins. After gentle pressing and natural sedimentation, the must ferments at 19 °C in stainless steel.

The aromatic soul of South Tyrol. Gewürztraminer is considered the most typical of all South Tyrolean white wines – full-bodied and unmistakably aromatic. At Peter Zemmer, this grape variety grows on low-growing rootstock in the Guyot system, in the best vineyard sites on the valley floor around Kurtinig at 220–230 metres above sea level. The favourable location, ideal sunshine and good aeration of the grapes create ideal conditions for this demanding variety. After destemming, a six to eight-hour cold maceration follows, which transfers the valuable flavours from the skins into the must and intensifies the characteristic bouquet. Gentle pressing and subsequent fermentation at a controlled temperature of 19 °C in stainless steel preserve the varietal aromas in all their splendour.

Federico II di Svevia, Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire and King of Sicily, had a special affection for the hills around Monte Vulture. Here, in Basilicata, he had castles built that still stand today. And he loved the wines of the Vulture – those deep, mineral reds that came from the lava soils of the extinct volcano. The Terre degli Svevi estate, founded in 1998, honours his legacy with the name of its flagship wine: Re Manfredi – king Manfred, his son, the fearless warrior. 100% Aglianico, grown at 420 metres in Venosa, on volcanic soil rich in calcium, nitrogen and tuff – the mineral foundation on which the character of this wine is built. A continental climate with harsh winters, hot summers and pronounced temperature fluctuations.

A Fiano with inner peace and clear origins: Montelapio comes from high altitude vineyards around Lapio. The volcanic, mineral-rich soils give the wine elegant grip and balance. Delicate golden yellow colour. Harmoniously balanced aromas on the nose: yellow apple, white flowers, a hint of rock sugar, salty herbal notes and delicate hazelnut. On the palate, it is fruity with a clear structure and lively acidity that creates a youthful tension. The mineral finish is gently lingering and ends with a feeling of persistence that lingers for a long time.

Zisola is the Tuscan dream of the Mazzei family in the south of Sicily. The winery's bestseller is made from 100% Nero d'Avola from traditional Alberello vines near Noto, where chalky soils and proximity to the sea balance the natural exuberance of this indigenous grape variety with freshness and elegance. The Marchesi Mazzei, one of Italy's most historic winegrowing families with over 600 years of tradition, have been continuing their Sicilian project since 2003. 24 hectares of vineyards surround the historic bagli of the 50-hectare tenuta with a view of the baroque UNESCO World Heritage Site of Noto. Hand-picked and fermented for 14-16 days at 26-28°C, the wine matures for 10 months in French oak barrels (33% new).

Barbaspinosa comes from the hills around Poggio la Mozza – characterised by ferruginous clay soils that give the Sangiovese backbone and depth. The wine is aged for twelve months, partly in barriques and partly in large wooden barrels. Ruby red in colour with a slightly lighter rim. The bouquet smells of black cherry, plum, Maremma herbs, some tobacco and a hint of leather. Powerful but well-balanced on the palate, with ripe fruit, grippy tannins and fine spice. The vintage gives fullness, but remains surprisingly fresh thanks to the cool nights. A Sangiovese full of character with a Tuscan soul – down-to-earth, honest and with a distinctive expression of the Maremma. SUPERIORE.DE

Nas-cëtta, also known as Anas-Cetta, is a rare, indigenous white wine variety from Piedmont that was almost forgotten. Originally native to the Novello region, it is characterised by its fine structure, aromatic complexity and good ageing potential. For Il Fiore, it is combined with 70% Chardonnay to harmonise fruit and texture. Maturation in stainless steel tanks preserves the purity of the fruit and the clear expression of its Piedmontese origins.

Ribolla Gialla with ambition: Rjgialla is Tunella's elegant interpretation of the indigenous grape variety that has been rooted in Friuli for centuries. The vines grow on slopes with lean marl soil, which gives the wine precision and freshness. Bright straw yellow in colour with greenish reflections. The bouquet is fine and expressive: lemon zest, white peach, blossom honey, pear and a hint of herbal spice. Slender but full of character on the palate, with lively acidity, delicate fruit and a clear, slightly salty finish. A fresh, delicate white wine with a regional profile – ideal with light summer cuisine. SUPERIORE.DE

Trebbiano can be more than just a fresh summer wine – as Zaccagnini's San Clemente has been proving for years. Named after the Romanesque abbey of San Clemente a Casauria, a national monument in the heart of the Valle Casauria, this wine is a commitment to the depth of an often underestimated grape variety. The grapes come from old vines on clayey soils with a south-westerly exposure, where the constant ventilation between the Apennines and the Adriatic ensures perfect ripeness. The grapes are harvested by hand at the end of September, beginning of October – later than Tralcetto, riper and more concentrated. The actual transformation begins in the cellar: 14 days of maceration at a cool 14-16°C extract texture and complexity without sacrificing freshness. The wine then matures for six months in untoasted barriques – the wood provides structure, not flavour.

A red wine with character – irresistible in its depth and yet with supple elegance. Noras comes from 90% Cannonau (Grenache) and 10% Carignano and is harvested from old vines rooted in sandy-granitic soils deep in the Sulcis terroir. After late manual harvesting, the must ferments at a controlled 22-24 °C for 12 days in stainless steel tanks, accompanied by regular pumping over to optimise extraction. Malolactic fermentation takes place early and spontaneously, followed by around six months of maturation in used French barriques. Before it is released for sale, Noras matures for a further six months in the bottle – a maturation and ageing process that gives it depth and elegance.

Verdeca is a grape variety that hardly anyone knows – and that is no coincidence. For centuries, it was used as the base material for vermouth, was rarely vinified as a single variety and was considered too unspectacular for its own bottle. Yet its history is an ancient one: Greek in origin, it probably arrived in Apulia with the first settlers and became native to the sandy limestone soils of Salento. Masseria Li Veli has given it a stage with the Askos project – and the wine critics have responded. Askos Verdeca is the only Apulian white wine ever to be honoured by Gambero Rosso with its Tre Bicchieri.

"Sogni al Campo" – dreams in the field. A name that reveals what drives this co-operative: 180 Piedmontese winegrowers who work together to cultivate around 300 hectares in the best vineyards in the region and make wine in the ultra-modern winery in Barolo. What unites them is the belief that co-operation does not have to mean compromise, but concentration on the essentials. This Langhe Nebbiolo shows how cleverly Piedmont handles its grape varieties: 85 per cent Nebbiolo provides structure and those typical aromas of cherry, violet and a hint of tar. But the 15 per cent Barbera is the secret – they bring juiciness and a lively acidity that makes the Nebbiolo more accessible in its youth without taking away its soul. After traditional fermentation, the wine matures for twelve months in barriques, which give it a subtle spiciness and finely polished tannins.

In 1984, Rita Tua and Virgilio Bisti bought a dilapidated farmstead near Suvereto. No wine background, no generations of tradition – just a conviction: that the Colline Metallifere terroir can do more than it seemed at the time. The metal-rich, ferruginous clays of these hills between the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Apuan Alps bear a fingerprint that no other growing region in Tuscany can replicate: mineral, salty, with a depth reminiscent of both earth and sea. Tierre is Tua Rita's 100 per cent Merlot expression of this terroir – more accessible than the legendary Redigaffi, but with the same soils, the same hands, the same attitude.