Vintage 2025

Chardonnay doesn't really need an origin. The world drinks it everywhere, it adapts, it works. This is precisely its problem – and this is exactly where it so often fails. Those who grow it in the Aosta Valley, on granite moraine between 600 and 800 metres above sea level, with short summers, long winters and temperatures that drop to extremes at night, ask a different question: what happens to this variety when the mountain has the last word?

The same hills, the same family, the same philosophy – what applies to the wine also applies to the oil. Around a thousand olive trees grow on the slopes of Monti in Chianti, mainly Correggiolo with some Moraiolo in between, in mixed cultivation with fruit trees according to old tradition. Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi harvests by hand before the olives are fully ripe – lower yields, but acidity levels below 0.2% and a wealth of polyphenols. The olives are pressed on the day of harvest, under nitrogen, to prevent any oxidation.

Biancolella epitomises the heart of Ischian wine culture – an indigenous grape variety with a millennia-old tradition that grows almost exclusively on Ischia. Its existence documents the inseparable link between the island and the vine since the times of the ancient Greeks, when the first amphorae carried the precious wine as far as France. The four hectares of vineyards grow on the mineral-rich volcanic soil of Monte Epomeo at an altitude of 300 metres overlooking the sea. The green tuff stores the Mediterranean warmth and passes it on to the vines, while the salty sea breezes provide natural freshness and elegance. This unique combination of volcanic power and maritime mildness characterises its unmistakable character.

The Giachis think in music. Where others soberly number their oils, they compose: Adagio – the slow, gentle tempo. A name that is the programme. This deliberately mild oil comes from the hills of Mercatale Val di Pesa, in the centre of the Florentine Chianti Classico. Frantoio and Moraiolo, complemented by Leccino and Pendolino, result in a blend that does not want to overwhelm, but rather accompany.

After the Adagio comes the Allegretto – a touch livelier, a touch more gripping. The Giachis have composed this oil for the kitchen: robust enough to withstand heat, full of character to add depth to dishes. The same Tuscan varieties from the hills of Mercatale Val di Pesa – Frantoio, Moraiolo, Leccino – are blended here in such a way that they do not lose their flavours when roasted and braised, but rather develop them. The low acidity ensures excellent digestibility, while the fuller body ensures presence on the palate.

Giovanni plus Olio equals Giolio – the name reveals what it's all about: the family's oil, its daily companion, its all-rounder. Not a specialist for one task, but a generalist for all. The cuvée combines the best of the Tuscan varieties: Frantoio as the backbone, Moraiolo for structure, plus Pendolino, Leccino and Maurino as subtle nuances. The result works just as well raw on a salad as it does in a hot pan – versatile without being arbitrary.

Long before Andrea Cortonesi bottled his first Brunello, his family cultivated the olive groves around Castelnuovo dell'Abate. The cultivation of olives is part of the very fabric of life here – rooted in the same soil from which his wines come. Classic Tuscan varieties: Frantoio brings structure and flavour, Moraiolo the dark fruit and depth, Leccino the smoothness on the finish. The grapes are harvested by hand in November when the fruit is still firmly attached to the branch – cold pressing immediately afterwards, without delay.

A small part of the olive groves around Podere Albereto is reserved exclusively for the production of this very special oil, which is only bottled in very limited quantities (5,000 bottles). The colour of Albereto extra virgin olive oil is an intense emerald green. It has an intense, herbaceous fragrance with notes of asparagus and aromatic herbs such as tarragon and sage. The flavour is intense and strong with a characteristic aftertaste reminiscent of the vegetables perceived by the nose. SUPERIORE.DE

What Felsina has achieved with Sangiovese in Chianti Classico has been transferred to the olive grove since 2002: uncompromising quality, respect for the terroir, traceability from the harvest to the bottle. The idea behind this has a famous name: "Olio secondo Veronelli", named after Luigi Veronelli, the legendary wine critic and close friend of the estate, who elevated the connection between oil and origin to a philosophy. The olive groves extend over three areas of the 400-hectare estate: Fèlsina, Pagliarese and Boschi – each with its own microclimate and soils. Four varieties grow here: Leccino, Pendolino, Moraiolo and Raggiolo (also known as Correggiolo in Chianti). All four are combined for the cuvée – a reflection of the territory in an extra virgin. The olives are harvested by hand in October and November, when they are still green to purple and their polyphenol content is at its highest. They are pitted in the company's own mill – this method is called "denocciolato" and only the flesh is pressed, not the bitter stone. The result is an oil of remarkable purity.

There are said to be vineyards in Piedmont that do not like Nebbiolo. The Vigneto Fossati in the highest location in the municipality of Barolo is one of them: gravelly-sandy soil, morning sun exposure, 420 to 450 metres. Aldo Vajra planted it with Riesling in 1985 – out of conviction, which sounded rather provocative at the time. A second vineyard chapter was added: the Cascina Bertoni in Sinio, exposed to the north-east, calcareous and homogeneous. Pétracine, whose name means "Riesling" in Piedmontese, comes from both vineyards – and at the same time sounds like stone and roots. The clonal vines come from the Rhine, the Moselle, the Palatinate and Alsace: austere German minerality meets Alsatian creaminess and Piedmontese terroir. Gentle pressing, short cold clarification, 15 to 20 days fermentation in steel, ageing in stainless steel until spring – no intervention that does not serve the precision of this rare wine.

The pure varietal selection from Fontodi. While the classic house olive oil convinces as a cuvée, the Correggiolo shows the old Tuscan variety in its purest form. Hand-picked, pressed on the day of harvest, biodynamic cultivation: the philosophy remains the same, but the result is more focussed. Correggiolo is considered one of the most characterful olive varieties in Tuscany: strong, flavourful, with rough edges.

While Virgilio Bisti cultivates the reds – merlot, Cabernet, Syrah –Rita Tua has focussed on the whites. Lodano Bianco is her wine, her conviction: that in this climate and on these mineral-rich soils of the Colline Metallifere, a white wine with its own character can be created – from an assemblage that nobody would have expected in the Maremma. Traminer, Riesling and Chardonnay. Three grape varieties, three origin stories, one terroir. The vineyards near Suvereto lie on clay and mineral-rich soils, twelve kilometres from the Tyrrhenian Sea. The Mistral wind from the Piombino Canal keeps the temperatures in balance, preserves the flavour and gives the white wine a freshness that is not a given at this latitude. Gentle pressing, fermentation in wooden tanks, then maturation in barriques.

Arneis means "little rascal" in Piedmontese – the little pain in the arse. Difficult to grow, prone to over-ripening, almost forgotten for decades. Bruno Giacosa was one of two producers who saved the grape variety from extinction in the late 1960s by bottling and marketing it as a single variety – at a time when hardly anyone understood why. Today, it is impossible to imagine the Roero without Arneis. And the Giacosa specimen remains the reference. The grapes come from selected vineyards in Vezza d'Alba, Monteu Roero, Santo Stefano Roero, Canale and Montà d'Alba – long-standing suppliers that Bruno Giacosa has personally selected. Foreign vineyards, own signature. 23 to 34-year-old vines on the sandy soils of the Roero, the ancient seabed north of the Tanaro, which gives the Arneis a natural lightness and aromatic strength that clay terroirs never achieve. Vinification purist: spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel tanks, 25 to 30 days, without malolactic fermentation – the freshness and acidity remain intact. Four months sur lie, one month bottle ageing. Bottled in February 2025, no wood, no intervention that is not necessary.

While other olive growers have long since harvested, the Giachis wait. Only in December, when the fruit has reached full ripeness, does the harvest begin – by hand, olive by olive. This patience has a name: Dolciolio, the mild oil, dolce and olio merged into one word like the softness in the flavour itself. The late harvest changes everything. Instead of a green sharpness, a golden softness unfolds, allowing the oil to glide over the tongue like liquid velvet.

Primo is the name of the first – and that is exactly what this oil is: the first expression of the vintage, pressed from olives that have yet to reach full maturity. Where the Dolciolio focuses on December mildness, the Primolio chooses the other path: November harvest, green fruit, character instead of favour. The cuvée gives the Moraiolo the lead – more than half of the blend comes from this robust variety, which gives the oil its backbone. Frantoio contributes elegance, Leccino, Pendolino and Maurino the fine nuances. The resulting products have long since found their place on the tables of top restaurants in Florence.

Verdeca is a grape variety that hardly anyone knows – and that is no coincidence. For centuries, it was used as the base material for vermouth, was rarely vinified as a single variety and was considered too unspectacular for its own bottle. Yet its history is an ancient one: Greek in origin, it probably arrived in Apulia with the first settlers and became native to the sandy limestone soils of Salento. Masseria Li Veli has given it a stage with the Askos project – and the wine critics have responded. Askos Verdeca is the only Apulian white wine ever to be honoured by Gambero Rosso with its Tre Bicchieri.

Tenuta San Leonardo is a name that stands for red wine. For generations, the Guerrieri Gonzaga family in Avio, in southern Trentino, has been cultivating a Bordeaux blend that is considered by connoisseurs to be among the best wines in Italy. The fact that the house also makes white wine (and rosato) – and with the same precision – far fewer people know. Vette di San Leonardo owes its name to the peaks that surround the vineyards. Vette – summits, peaks – is the image San Leonardo has chosen for this Sauvignon Blanc: high, clear, unmistakable. The grapes come from Roveré della Luna, a village on the border between Trentino and Alto Adige, which is one of the best Sauvignon Blanc vineyards in northern Italy. The Dolomites as a backdrop, cool nights, a long ripening process on the vine. Hand-picked in September. Only steel, no wood. Five months sur lie on the fine lees – for texture and depth without external ageing.

The Raggiolo – called Correggiolo in Tuscany – is one of the oldest and most widespread olive varieties in the region. A variety with character, it bears small, slightly asymmetrical fruit and ripens late, making harvest time a test of patience. Felsina's oldest trees have been standing since the 1960s, while the youngest were planted in the 1980s – all in the three groves of Fèlsina, Pagliarese and Boschi, which together form the estate's terroir mosaic. Like all Felsina monocultivar oils, the Correggiolo is harvested separately when the variety has reached its optimum ripeness. Within four hours, the olives are taken to the in-house mill, pitted and pressed from the pulp only (denocciolato) – at a constant 25 degrees. The oil is then stored under exclusion of air in stainless steel tanks and is only vacuum-bottled when ordered: it couldn't be fresher.

The Moraiolo is the soul of Chianti oil. A variety with compact growth and modest vigour, it produces roundish olives with a strikingly large stone – and therefore benefits particularly from pit removal. Because without the bitter stone, the pure flesh of the fruit comes into its own, and in the Moraiolo this is of remarkable complexity. Felsina's oldest trees have been standing since the 1960s. The variety ripens medium-early, earlier than the Correggiolo, and is harvested when the polyphenol content is at its peak. The olives reach the mill within four hours, are pitted (denocciolato) and pressed at 25 degrees. The oil is stored under nitrogen, vacuum bottled only when ordered.

The Pendolino is the "servant" among the olive varieties – and at the same time the indispensable one. It owes its name to its characteristically drooping branches, but its importance lies in its role as a pollinator: the flowers produce enormous quantities of pollen and thus enable the other varieties to bear fruit. In many groves, the Pendolino is a silent helper whose own oil is hardly ever bottled. At Felsina it is allowed to shine. The trees are in the Poderi Valli (planted in 1986) and Arcidosso (2005), cold-resistant and early-maturing. It is the first variety to be harvested, it is de-seeded (denocciolato) and pressed at 25 degrees.

If the Correggiolo epitomises the Tuscan elemental force, the Leccino is its elegant sister. A variety that is widespread throughout Italy – robust, cold-resistant, reliable in yield and early ripening. But at Felsina, where it has been growing in the groves of Fèlsina, Pagliarese and Boschi since the 1960s, it shows its finest face: an oil of medium intensity that emphasises balance over strength. The olives are harvested by hand earlier than the other varieties, when they are just beginning to ripen. They are pitted within four hours and pressed at 25 degrees centigrade – only the pulp, no stone (denocciolato). The oil rests under nitrogen in stainless steel and is only vacuum-packed when ordered.

Probably the most famous Lugana from the southern shore of Lake Garda – i Frati is the flagship of the estate. Made from 100% Turbiana from calcareous moraine soils, it combines regional typicity with fine modern precision. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with greenish reflections. Fresh citrus fruit, white peaches, pears and a hint of almond blossom on the nose, complemented by delicate herbal notes. Clear and juicy on the palate, with lively, well-integrated acidity, fine flavour and a subtle mineral vein that lends freshness and depth in equal measure. The final is long, elegant and characterised by citrus fruit. A timeless classic that brings the terroir of the Lugana region perfectly into the glass – stylish, stimulating to drink and with assured ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Some wines have a history. This one has a founding history. The Terlaner Cuvée (formerly Classico) was already there in 1893, when 24 winegrowers founded a cooperative in the small village of Terlan – with the conviction that more is possible together than alone. Over 130 years later, this idea remains unchanged, as does the wine. 60 per cent Pinot Bianco, 30 per cent Chardonnay, 10 per cent Sauvignon Blanc – the three great white Terlans in an assemblage that cellar master Rudi Kofler describes as compositional logic: Pinot Bianco provides freshness and acid structure, Chardonnay the ripe warmth and fullness, Sauvignon Blanc the fine aromatic play. Not a product of chance, but a wine with architecture. The grapes grow at 280 to 700 metres above sea level, on the characteristic quartz porphyry of Terlan – volcanic primary rock, which gives the wines their salty minerality and exceptional longevity.

The Winkl has been vinified as a single variety since 1956 – at a time when Sauvignon Blanc was still a rarity in South Tyrol. Winery manager Rudi Kofler says that this grape variety has always felt at home around the oldest farms in the Terlan DOC area. You believe him when you taste the wine. The vineyards lie at 280 to 580 metres above sea level, exposed to the south-southwest, on steep to very steep slopes. The soil is quartz porphyry – volcanic primary rock, crystalline-mineral, with a slightly acidic pH value and an almost natural self-limitation in yields. It is precisely this microstress that produces the terroir's own polyphenols, which give Terlano wines their characteristic saltiness and tension. No other soil, no other result. Hand-picked, gentle whole-cluster pressing, slow fermentation – then 7 to 8 months on the fine lees, 80 per cent in steel, 20 per cent in large wooden barrels. This silent wood component only serves the texture, it gives the wine substance without masking its origin.