Vintage 2023

An idiosyncratic wine with character: Paolo Meroi's Ribolla Gialla comes from high-altitude plots around Buttrio, where cool nights and limestone-rich soils preserve the freshness of the grape variety. Unlike many wines from the region, Meroi's wine is not matured in steel tanks, but partly in used wood - a careful, finely balanced process that adds texture and depth without masking the varietal character. Brilliant golden yellow in the glass. Pear, yellow stone fruit, lime blossom, citrus zest and a hint of hazelnut on the nose. The palate is full-bodied, silky and delicately melting, supported by fresh acidity and subtle spice. The finish is long, cool and salty-mineral. A modern interpretation of the indigenous grape variety - focussed, elegant and absolutely harmonious. SUPERIORE.DE

A Chardonnay with a clear expression of origin and subtle noblesse: Paolo Meroi ferments and ages his white wine from high-altitude vineyards around Buttrio partly in used wood - enough to give it depth and structure, but without any intrusive woody flavours. The result is a wine of great balance. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with golden reflections. On the nose, yellow apple, ripe lemon, some quince, white flowers and a fine hint of vanilla and roasted hazelnut. Dense yet precise on the palate, with a smooth, salty flavour and cool minerality. The acidity is present but well integrated, the finish is elegant and accompanied by a slight spiciness. A Friuli Chardonnay with a Burgundian soul - focussed, multi-layered and far from arbitrary. SUPERIORE.DE

Keir Ansonica is the white answer to Keir Syrah, which is also aged in amphorae. A wine produced in small quantities of 2,000 bottles, which is neither clarified nor filtered and is an expression of both innovation and tradition.

Juvelo is Andrian's crowning glory. A wine that only comes into being when nature plays its part. December in South Tyrol – whilst others have long since brought in their harvest, a few Gewürztraminer vines here are still waiting for the perfect moment. The grapes remain on the vine until they show clear signs of noble rot. Botrytis cinerea, the "noble rot", perforates the skin of the berries and allows the water to evaporate. What remains is pure concentration. The harvest are harvest by hand, selected berry by berry. There's no rush. The grapes are gently pressed, then fermentation begins in small oak barrels. This is followed by 11 months' ageing in barriques – the time this wine needs to develop its complexity.

Maurizio Castelli does not like fancy names. That's why he took a simple but original approach to naming the estate and its top wine: 414 – which is the number of the vineyard in the region's land register. His Morellino has become a true Italian classic with a modern interpretation. The grapes come from biodynamically farmed hills around Scansano with deep-rooted Sangiovese. The 2023 vintage was characterised by warm, sunny weather and moderate ripeness, ideal for aromatic clarity and balance. Temperature control during maceration and a subsequent maturation phase of around 12 months in large wooden barrels characterise this wine.

"San Zuan" is one of the great interpretations of Friulano every year – and in the 2023 vintage it shows a slightly different facet. The single vineyard site above San Giovanni al Natisone, characterised by barren Ponca soils, benefits from a microclimate that combines warmth and alpine freshness. 2023 brought a rather unsettled spring with variable rainfall and later a hot, dry summer that put the vines to the test. However, cool September nights preserved the acidity and lent the grapes precision and flavour. The grapes were harvested in several stages at the end of September, gently pressed and traditionally matured in large, used wooden barrels. The prolonged contact with the lees gave the wine depth and a creamy but never opulent texture.

The site near Buttrio, where the grapes of the autochthonous Friulano grape variety originate, is one of the Grand Crus of the Friuli Colli Orientali appellation together with Rosazzo. Not only are there no regulations here, but there is also a poor, loose marl soil, which ensures extremely low yields every year. In good vintages, however, the rewards are all the greater: the volume and fruit concentration, the lower acidity and the unmistakable salinity of the wines will, after a few years of ageing in the bottle, lead to enjoyable heights that will make lovers of complex, energetic white wines dizzy. SUPERIORE.DE

Medium yellow-green, intense floral and gooseberry aromas on the nose, fresh grapefruit, lime zest and basil. Full-bodied on the palate, elegant texture, fine acidity, mineral, racy and very drinkable. A Sauvignon with great varietal character. SUPERIORE.DE

The Collio Chardonnay Selezione with a grey label in a small edition of just 2,000 bottles is another special wine from Borgo del Tiglio, characterised by extreme varietal purity and a light, lively and airy bouquet. The wine's aromas are characterised on the one hand by fresh apricots and nectarines and on the other by creamy almond paste, preserved lemon and poached pear. The warmth of the 2023 vintage has contributed to an added textural richness that makes it a perfect match for an appetiser of escargots. SUPERIORE.DE

Reserve your best fish recipe for the Borgo del Tiglio Collio Sauvignon Selezione. It is a textbook rendition of the fragrant grape, dressed in a manner typical of Friuli. In fact, compared to Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, this region tends to produce softer wines that do not have pungent green notes. The bouquet is floral and delicate, with notes of white rose, fruit, quince and delicate lemon. There is also a very pronounced mineral note, reminiscent of crushed shells, in this edition of 1,200 bottles, which immediately transports you to the north-east of Italy. Hats off! SUPERIORE.DE

This magnificent Etna Bianco reflects the mineral profile of its origin with clarity and authenticity. It grows in the Contrada Feudo near Randazzo, at an altitude of around 650 metres, where volcanic soils with grey ash and lapilli give it a clear structure of origin. The year 2023 was balanced and cool on Etna – ideal conditions for relaxed ripening with a clear freshness. The grapes were harvested early and come partly from terraces with decades-old vines. The vinification combines a classic stainless steel tank approach with six months of ageing in tonneau – a mix that combines fullness, varietal purity and fine flavour.

Borgo del Tiglio's Malvasia Italo & Bruno (of which only 1,200 bottles were produced) is a delicate wine with pretty scents reminiscent of white flowers, gardenias and honeydew melon. There is also a distinct mineral note, but here it is more dusty or ashy than salty. This is an exceptional expression of Malvasia, a versatile grape with particularly floral flavours when in the right hands. SUPERIORE.DE

Ronco della Chiesa is another inspiring expression from one of Italy's most exciting white wine artists: the wine is made from 100% Friulano and is aged for 10 months in barriques. Its complexity is extraordinary. The wine grows in intensity with every passing minute, with notes of white peach, nectarine, poached pear and crushed limestone. As it progresses, there are hints of baked sweet bread or buttery croissant. On the palate, a very pleasing, medium fruit weight with beautiful, balanced acidity. Its quality clearly comes more from the fruit than from the winemaking. Only 2,600 bottles of this great Friulano were produced. SUPERIORE.DE

Now a modern classic among the white Langhe wines, which carries history and at the same time whets the appetite for the future: Rossj-Bass was created in 1988, named after Rossana (Rossj), Angelo Gaja's youngest daughter, and also refers to one of the two original parcels of land – bass, in Piedmontese for the lower vineyard. Over the years, the socialisation of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc in historically important cru sites in Barbaresco, Treiso and Serralunga created a stylistic signature with a clear identity.

Testamatta means something like "crazy in the head" and this name sums it up perfectly. When you know the crazy obsession with which Bibi Graetz pursues viticulture on the island of Giglio, you no longer have to wonder about the terrificand highly personalised results that Bibi has been bottling for years. This was preceded by several years of experimentation, research and a lot of hard work until the best of the over 100-year-old Ansonica vines in the rocky Serrone vineyard were finally identified. harvest is carried out exclusively by hand and each grape is meticulously selected according to quality and ripeness, which then finds its way to the wine cellar on the island. After destemming and gentle pressing under dry ice, the grapes are left to macerate for 48 hours at a low temperature before being transferred unfiltered to 225-litre barriques for fermentation, where the wine then matures for a further 12 months.

Elisabetta Geppetti is the woman who put Maremma on the Italian wine map. When she took over the management of Le Pupille in 1985, the area south of Grosseto was a blank spot for connoisseurs – today, her Saffredi is one of the most sought-after red wines in Italy. But what few people realise: She harboured her most passionate dream not for the red, but for a white. The Petit Manseng originally comes from Gascony – the region in the south-west of France where it produces the great sweet wines in Juranção and Pacherenc. Elisabetta Geppetti brought it to the Maremma and planted it on 1.5 hectares in the Vigneto Pian di Fiora near Pereta: tufaceous soil with alabaster and gypsum, north-eastern exposure, 200 to 250 metres, 6,250 plants per hectare. A plot that no one else in the neighbourhood has – and that speaks a language you wouldn't expect here.

The winery's flagship white wine is called Studio di Bianco and is a blend of 40% Friulano, 35% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Riesling, aged for 10 months in large barrels. It is an exceptional white wine, certainly one of the best in Italy, with a unique energy and tension that is reflected in a complex bouquet. A cornucopia of floral aromas, stone fruit, peach cake, honey and vanilla cream explode in the glass. The medium-bodied texture of the wine finishes smooth and very defined, revealing a unique complexity and elegance. The total production per vintage is just 1,900 bottles and anyone who has had this wine in their glass at least once in their life should consider themselves lucky. SUPERIORE.DE

Keir Ansonica is the white answer to Keir Syrah, which is also aged in amphorae. A wine produced in small quantities of 2,000 bottles, which is neither clarified nor filtered and is an expression of both innovation and tradition.

Some wines already bear their character in their name. Alteni di Brassica: it sounds like old stone walls, like the cool wind that blows through the hills of the Barbaresco region, like wild herbs that grow in the gardens between the vines. And indeed, this Sauvignon Blanc from Angelo Gaja tells exactly that: not of the exoticism of the grape variety, but of the landscape from which it comes.