Vintage 2023

Gewürztraminer is not a modest grape variety. He enters the room – and everyone turns round. The question is not whether it stands out, but whether there is substance behind the flavour. In the case of Lyra from Nals Margreid, the answer is yes. The vineyards are located in the South Tyrolean lowlands, facing south-east, between 350 and 550 metres at the foot of the Roen mountain range. The soil of broodingloamy gravel on limestone gives the wine its texture, while the afternoon Ora from Lake Garda ensures freshness and healthy harvest. Cellar master Harald Schraffl vinifies single-varietal wines in steel tanks, fermenting for three weeks at a cool temperature and maturing for seven months on the fine lees.

When you start afresh on Etna, you don't start small. In 2016, Davide Rosso acquired fourteen hectares in Solicchiata, at the foot of the extinct small crater Montedolce on the north-eastern slope of the volcano – at 730 to 750 metres, in a microclimate that immediately brought to mind the Langhe precision with which he grew up: cool nights, strong temperature amplitudes, mineral-rich lava sand soils, constant ventilation. "Contrade Nuove" – the new sites – stands for the estate's younger Carricante vines, cultivated as Alberello in a north-north-easterly exposure. They represent a different tone to the old vines of the main cuvée: livelier, more direct, with a freshness and accessibility that makes the terroir of Montedolce immediately recognisable. 100% Carricante. Spontaneous fermentation at low temperatures in stainless steel for 15 to 20 days. Then five months sur lie with weekly bâtonnage – no wood, no intervention, just the volcano with its soil and climate.

Syrah from the cool climate of Montalcino is a rarity – most wines made from this grape variety come from warmer, more southerly regions. At Vigna del Conte, on Eocene marl soils at altitudes of between 240 and 360 metres, it has found a home since 1998 that lends it freshness and precision without sacrificing its characteristic richness. The French grapes are fermented in stainless steel and glazed concrete tanks, with temperature controlled via cooling plates and jackets. The wine is aged in small 3-hectolitre oak barrels, which give it a concentrated, precise integration of oak.

The Lageder family now only makes one Sauvignon Bianco, and it belongs to the "Compositions" line. It gets its complexity from the wide variety of different clones in the vineyards. The majority of these are situated at an altitude of over 400 metres and are based on limestone soil on the one hand and volcanic weathered rock on the other. The different source rocks and the variety of vines led the Lageders to name the wine. This is because it consists of fragments from the best organic and biodynamic vineyards, which are married to form a whole. Its salinity and crisp freshness are highly drinkable and make this fresh and sublime South Tyrolean Sauvignon Blanc a very special experience. SUPERIORE.DE

"Burdigai" is Ligurian dialect and means shrubs of the Mediterranean maquis. From a small and isolated terrace facing west, surrounded by Mediterranean shrubs, comes this truly original Rosato, which should not actually exist. Because the grape variety is unknown, it is alternatively called "Franseise" because it apparently comes from the south of France and not even the owners know the exact origin and age, nor do they know who planted the vines there in the first place. Nevertheless, the vines have been cultivated and cared for over decades and at some point the family council decided to press an independent rosé from them.

Gewürztraminer is one of the aromatic icons of South Tyrol, and Franz Haas interprets this demanding grape variety with the precision of a perfectionist. The vines thrive on Guyot vines between 350 and 650 metres above sea level, where skeletal clay soils facing south-west create ideal conditions. These medium altitudes preserve the balance between aromatic opulence and fresh structure – this is crucial for a Gewürztraminer that does not suffocate in overripe heaviness. After a short maceration period, the must ferments at low, controlled temperatures in stainless steel. Six months of ageing on the fine lees follow, with the yeast being stirred weekly – an effort that gives the wine a creamy texture and additional complexity. This patient yeast work clearly distinguishes Franz Haas' interpretation from simpler Gewürztraminer wines, which are bottled after just a few months.

Pithos Bianco is a great orange wine from the amphora made from 100 per cent Grecanico, fermented entirely on the skins. Complex bouquet of apple, pear, honey, mint and a hint of rosemary. Even young with lots of ripe fruit and spice, a little salt, with beautiful depth and purity in the interesting, persistent flavour. Very good ageing and maturation potential. Be sure to aerate sufficiently before drinking! SUPERIORE.DE

In addition to his Friulano vineyards, Dario Raccaro has been cultivating a small vineyard planted with 100% Guyot Pinot Gris vines for many years. Since the 2022 vintage, he has been selling just 2,000 bottles of this fine wine and we are delighted to have received an allocation. Pale straw yellow in colour, with a fine, floral bouquet with traces of flint and white smoke. Well-structured on the fresh palate, soft and flowing, very velvety and deep at the same time, a masterful interpretation of Pinot Gris! SUPERIORE.DE

In 1975, the Carricante vines were planted, which today bear the Etna Bianco by Giovanni Rosso. Almost five decades of roots in volcanic lava sand, at 730 to 750 metres, exposed to the north-north-east – where the sun has to fight all day and the grapes ripen slowly, cool and with rare aromatic precision. Davide Rosso discovered this spot in 2014 and bought the property two years later. What attracted him was the same logic that guides him in Serralunga: not terroir for the sake of terroir, but one that characterises the wine, without help, without make-up. The soils of the Contrada Montedolce – volcanic sand, ash, mineral-rich subsoil, aerated and drained like hardly any other site on the northern slope – gave him what he was looking for. The old Alberello vines, trained with a double inverted Guyot, bear little. But what they do bear is concentrated. Hand-picked in October. Spontaneous fermentation at cool temperatures in stainless steel for 15 to 20 days. Five months sur lie with weekly bâtonnage. No wood. The vinification is silence – the wine should speak.

In the gentle hills above Trento, where the Dolomites majestically watch over the Adige Valley, lies a vineyard called Fontanasanta, the "Holy Spring". Here, at an altitude of 400 metres and on calcareous clay soils, Elisabetta Foradori preserves one of Trentino's most precious treasures: the Nosiola, an ancient indigenous grape variety that was once at the heart of the region's wine culture but is now threatened with extinction. Only three hectares are dedicated to this rare variety. Nosiola, whose name is derived from the dialect word "nosela" for hazelnut, requires patience and sensitivity. In wet Alpine years, it can be capricious, but under Elisabetta's biodynamic guidance, it unfolds its full aromatic complexity. The vinification process follows the revolutionary Foradori philosophy: after hand-picking, the de-stemmed berries are placed in Spanish tinajas, where they ferment on the skins for eight months – a process that gives the Nosiola its characteristic golden yellow colour and structural depth. A short maturation in used acacia barrels rounds off the profile.

Bright, radiant golden yellow in colour. The aromas of this crus float weightlessly in the air and range from ripe banana, peach and marzipan to Amalfi lemons and quinces. The palate is creamy and surprisingly tannic for a white wine, with firm, crisp acidity and terrificcomplexity. Layer by layer, the components of this characterful white wine unfold into a refined potpourri that impressively demonstrates Luigi Moro's great class. A Greco di Tufo with huge ageing potential and, for us, like something from another planet. SUPERIORE.DE

Between light and shade, between strength and elegance, sometimes only a few hundred metres decide the character of a wine. Less than ten minutes' walk from Sgarzon, but geologically in a different world, lies Morei, "the dark one" in the old Trentino dialect. Here, on the warmer, rockier terrain of Campo Rotaliano, Elisabetta Foradori has been writing another exciting chapter in the Teroldego story since 1984. The name says it all: where Sgarzon embodies youthful freshness, Morei reveals the deep, mineral soul of this extraordinary grape variety. The 2.5-hectare plot rests on the ancient riverbed of the Noce, where thousands of years of erosion have left behind a mosaic of pebbles, sand and dolomite rock. This stony matrix stores the heat of the dolomite sun and releases it to the vines at night – a natural heat reservoir that gives Teroldego its characteristic depth and concentration.