VINOUS

The vineyard covers just under two hectares. Pajè is the smallest of all nine vineyards belonging to the Produttori del Barbaresco – and yet, or perhaps precisely because of this, it bears one of the most distinctive characteristics of the entire range: a freshness that never fades. The vineyard lies to the south-west of the village, slightly lower than its higher-lying neighbours and more open towards the Tanaro. The influence of the river gives it a cooler microclimate; the soil is rich in limestone with veins of sand that provide good drainage. In cooler vintages, a subtle hint of mint emerges, a characteristic rarely found elsewhere in Barbaresco. First produced in 1967 – at that time as a special label for the "Cavalieri del Tartufo" – it has been part of the regular range since 1982. The winemaking process follows the cooperative's basic principles: 28 days' contact with the must, thirty months or more in large wooden casks, and one year in the bottle.

L'Alberello is a beautiful Rosso made primarily from Cabernet. The wine comes from a two-hectare plot planted entirely with long rows of Alberello vines planted at an altitude of 30 metres above sea level on predominantly clayey soils. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel and the wine matures for 18 months in barriques. Starts fresh and vehement with warm, dark fruit flavours, then opens up further with a bouquet of herbs, coffee and a pinch of pepper. Remarkably polished and juicy on the palate, everything is in balance, silky and very charismatic on the long finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Fresh, bright ruby colour. The Syrah impresses with its intense and ripe bouquet with hints of figs, redcurrants, preserved cherries, blueberries, spices and vanilla. Velvety, elegant tannins accompany the opulent and lively structure through to the lingering final. SUPERIORE.DE

Intense ruby red Vino Nobile Riserva with a spicy bouquet of aromas of dried fruit, cinnamon, cloves and liquorice. Smooth on the palate with a variety of nuances, beautiful fullness, structure and intensity, supple tannins. Very elegant pleasure at an excellent price. SUPERIORE.DE

Castello Romitorio's 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is a classic expression of the 5-star vintage in Montalcino (consortium rating), showing plenty of ripe fruit, minerality, herbal nuances and varietal purity. This wine hits the sweet spot between elegance and power, which is not easy to achieve. It offers a wide range of Sangiovese flavours with wild cherry, forest floor, crushed clove and medicinal herbs, but it also shows a plump density and a velvety texture. Filippo Chia and his team have created a highly attractive Brunello for medium to long drinking. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for this fine white wine from the north side of Mount Etna come from the 3-hectare Contrada Muganazzi in the municipality of Passopisciaro. The skeleton-rich and pH-neutral soils are rich in iron and nitrogen and offer ideal conditions for fresh, acidic and mineral white wines. The wine is aged in equal parts in wood and stainless steel for 12 months on the fine lees. Muganazzi is neither a lean wine, nor is it too full-bodied. It is somewhere in between, with thick layers of peach, apricot and lots of fresh citrus fruit. The mineral notes such as gravel, flint and volcanic ash are very evident. An elegant, powerful Carricante with great drinking flow that clearly shows the signature of the sensitive Alberto Graci. SUPERIORE.DE

Between 60,000 and 15,000 years before Christ, Mount Etna eroded its ancient centre – the Ellittico eruptive complex collapsed in on itself. What remains are some of the oldest surface soils on the volcano that can still be used for cultivation. Subsequent lava flows buried the older layers beneath them; only small, rare plots of Ellittico survived on the surface. On the northern flank of Mount Etna, there are three contrade with pure Ellittico terroir: Bocca d'Orzo, Calderara and San Lorenzo. Three out of hundreds. Calderara – the name evokes warmth. The stones here, fist-sized and light, a mixture of black pumice and basalt, absorb the sun's heat during the day and slowly release it back into the soil during the cold nights. Without this invisible thermal balance, the ripening process at an altitude of 600 to 650 metres would be quite different. Don pep, who tended these vineyards for seventy years, found the most precise word to describe the wines from this site: "cremosi". It's true – and it couldn't be put any better.

Primofiore means "first blossom" – and that is exactly what it is: the youngest red wine that Quintarelli releases each year. For a producer whose great wines are aged for seven years before leaving the estate, this is a deliberate exception. Nothing is rushed at Quintarelli; the wines are given the time they need in the quiet cellars above Negrar, along the Via del Cerè, right in the heart of Valpolicella. Primofiore is a blend of Corvina, Corvinone, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. However, only the Cabernet component undergoes partial drying; the Corvina and Corvinone are pressed fresh immediately after harvest, without appassimento. It is this combination – part dried, part processed immediately – that sets Primofiore apart from the estate's other wines. The wine is aged in large Slavonian oak barrels.

From the legendary San Guido estate, the cradle of Sassicaia, comes Le Difese, a wine that combines the essence of two worlds: the international class of Cabernet Sauvignon with the Tuscan soul of Sangiovese. Named after the golden boar tusks on the label – a symbol of the wild Maremma –this blend, first created in 2002, embodies the accessible side of an icon. After gentle hand-picking and temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks, Le Difese matures for twelve months in French and American barriques, followed by three months in the bottle.

The Capestrano vineyard is located in the plain of Ofena, just a few kilometres from Popoli and still around 400 metres above sea level. It is part of the Convento vineyard and is planted throughout with Trebbiano d'Abruzzo. The unspoilt environment of the Capestrano spring located there has a high level of biodiversity, which is reflected in the numerous aquatic plants, bushes, flowers and spontaneous vegetation that, thanks to the indigenous yeasts, give the wines made from these grapes their unmistakable organoleptic profile.

An elegant, complex and supple Barbaresco. Shy in its youth, it develops its intense personality over the years.

The name says it all – and rarely has a wine deserved its name so consistently. Quartz: a mineral that was formed in fire, has survived for millions of years and is still visible today in Terlan's soils as a fine speckle in the volcanic porphyry rock. 55 to 60 per cent quartz content, slightly acidic pH value, skeleton-rich sandy-loamy structure without carbonate – a soil that allows water to pass through, rations nutrients and puts the vine under controlled stress. This micro-stress is not a deficiency. It is intentional. It forces the plant to produce terroir-specific polyphenols, which give the wine the savoury tension for which Terlan is internationally renowned.

Andrea Cortonesi's Brunello di Montalcino 2020 shows its best side right from the start; it is a Brunello of broodingbeauty, intensity and complexity. The nose is characterised by a generous dose of primary fruit, primarily cherry and blackberry. This is complemented by wonderfully balanced secondary flavours from the oak, reminiscent of spices, cinnamon and dark smoke. On the palate, it explodes from the starting line and delivers a steady pace throughout. Subtle notes of spice and barbecue smoke add further facets to the impressive finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Enrica and Ettore learned winemaking from none other than Giancarlo Pacenti. The grapes for this vinophile masterpiece come from a small vineyard in Castelnuovo dell'Abate. Deep, full-bodied expression with warm aromatic layers adding impressive intensity to the bouquet of dark plum, blackberry, dried cherry, liquorice, tar, black truffle and leather. Then on the palate, a beguiling extract sweetness, again very complex and resonant, in quiet unison with the characteristics of the exceptional terroir. The 36 months of very slow ageing in large oak barrels provide a wonderful harmony and a very good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Villa di Capezzana has been the Tenuta's flagship since 1925 and is a living testimony to Tuscan wine culture. This Carmignano DOCG epitomises the vision of the Contini Bonacossi family, who for five generations have been cultivating the heritage of a wine estate whose first documented mention dates back to 804. In 1975, Carmignano was the first Tuscan DOC zone ever to officially include Cabernet Sauvignon in the assemblage – centuries before the Super Tuscans discovered this idea for themselves. The tradition goes back to the 16th century, when Caterina de' Medici had Cabernet cuttings brought to Carmignano from Bordeaux.

The grapes for one of the most elegant and ethereal Vin Santo in Chianti Classico are dried before they are pressed and then sealed in barrels for nine years. Paolo de Marchi calls it "lazy winemaking" and admits: "The blending process is actually the most challenging part, as every barrel is different and after tasting 10 barrels, palate fatigue sets in". The result is a very elegant and pure Vin Santo that has beguiling notes of candied fruit, honey and sweet spices. The balance between sweetness and acidity keeps the wine light, lively and refreshing, and it has a smoky edge on the finish. This is a great Vin Santo, and although it has more than 200g/litre of residual sugar, it is surprisingly light, refreshing and easy to drink. SUPERIORE.DE

Altare 's Barolo is a Barolo of the four cardinal directions. Not geographically, but in terms of character: from La Morra, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d'Alba and the municipality of Barolo comes a wine that does not let any single vineyard site take centre stage, but rather all of them at once. A map of the entire appellation in 10,000 bottles. What gives each vintage its unique character is the climate. 2022 was hot, dry and concentrated in the Langhe – a year that Parker ranked among the most extraordinary of the last decade. The vines were under stress; the grapes ripened early and fully; and the extraction from 4 to 5 days in rotary fermenters yielded denser fruit and softer tannins than in a cooler year. Twenty-four months in used French barriques gave the wine structure and complexity without overshadowing the warmth of the vintage.

In the hills south of Castelnuovo dell'Abate, where the soils are characterised by galestro and clay and the view sweeps over the Orcia Valley, a Rosso is created that can hardly be called a "second wine". Poggio di Sotto elevates the genre of Rosso di Montalcino to an art form and the 2022 vintage emphasises this with rare clarity. The year was warm, but not impetuous: after a dry winter, the summer brought high temperatures, but also large temperature differences between day and night. The autumn, dry and mild, allowed for a late, staggered harvest: An advantage for a winery that harvests Sangiovese as selectively as if it were a Grand Cru. The wine is fermented spontaneously in open wooden vats and matured in large Slavonian oak barrels – for almost three years, although the law requires far less. What would be a Brunello in other cellars is deliberately bottled as a Rosso here. And that is by no means an understatement, but a stylistic decision.

Sandro Chia's remarkable 2020 vintage is taut, forward and downright bold in the glass. On the palate, it impresses with a lot of natural richness and beautiful opulence of fruit, complemented by varietal elements of wild cherry, blue flowers and soft earth. Secondary flavours of tobacco, cedar and cinnamon then quickly surprise, adding complexity and personality to the wine, which is built up in many deep layers. It has wonderful potential for further ageing in the bottle, but it is already an absolute delight and the quality of the fruit and its length make it irresistible. SUPERIORE.DE

Since the first bottling in 2004, this wine has embodied the purest and most direct interpretation of Bolgheri à la Le Macchiole - a Rosso of grace and intensity, easy to drink without compromising on structure and complexity. The historic winery, founded in 1983 by Eugenio Campolmi and Cinzia Merli as pioneers of the region, has distilled its understanding of terroir with this Bordeaux blend of 40% Merlot, 20% each of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. The challenging 2023 vintage with its changeable summer demanded precise decisions during the harvest – a test that Le Macchiole's experienced team under Cinzia Merli passed with flying colours. 15 days of maceration in steel, followed by 10 months of ageing, 70% in used barriques and 30% in concrete, give the wine its characteristic balance.

Titolo Superiore is a selection that is aged for 12 months in tonneaux, followed by 12 months in used barrels and finally 12 months in the bottle. It has a dark, musky character and presents an earthy bouquet that blends with grilled herbs and blackcurrants. It flows across the palate like pure silk, gaining further tension as the mineral-driven flavours of wild berries slowly come to the fore. Firm, well-proportioned tannins glide into the finish, which tapers off in a structured, long and almost salty manner. Citrus fruits and residual acidity lend a refined freshness. Wonderful! SUPERIORE.DE

North-west of Montalcino, where the hills become wilder and shadier and the view extends towards the Maremma, lies Castello Romitorio in a secluded location that lives up to the name of the estate. Romitorio – hermitage. When Sandro Chia acquired the dilapidated castle in 1984, it had been uninhabited for decades, most recently a shelter for shepherds and their flocks. He paved it with art and planted the slopes with old Sangiovese clones – without knowing what speciality this north-western microclimate strip would one day bring to the bottle. The vineyards receive less direct sunlight than the southern slopes, the temperatures are cooler and ripening is later – conditions that give the Sangiovese elegance rather than vigour.

Translucent purple with a fresh garnet red rim. The bouquet is a potpourri of dried fruits, truffles, dark chocolate and delicate nougat notes. Opens fruity and velvety on the palate and will give pleasure for many years to come with its straightforwardness and wonderfully integrated acidity. SUPERIORE.DE