VINOUS

In 2000, buyers were at the door. The Fucci family had almost given up on the six hectares of vineyards that their grandfather Generoso had acquired at the foot of Monte Vulture in the 1960s – the parents teachers, the children on their way into the world. At the last moment, daughter Elena decided otherwise. Not out of calculation, but out of a feeling that she herself later described as "a stab in the heart": she could not accept that a foreign name would do something great with the oldest vines of the Vulture while she watched.

Eneo is supposed to be the "Grand Vin" of Montepeloso, the Italian answer to the globalisation of wines. And Eneo can do it. The blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon unmistakably expresses its terroir and is recognised worldwide. Aromas of blackcurrant and cherry with fresh flowers and orange peel are followed by a medium to full body with ultra-fine tannins that are wonderfully integrated into the wine and leave a bright, concentrated impression. SUPERIORE.DE

Gewürztraminer is named after Tramin. This is not a marketing story – this is etymology. The name of the world's most famous aromatic grape variety bears the village itself, where Hofstätter has been based since 1907. And the Kolbenhof plot is located above Tramin, in the hamlet of Söll, on an eastern slope between 360 and 420 metres above sea level – one of the most historic estates in the entire village. This is where the Bolzano quartz porphyry slab meets the limestone of the Mendelzug. A geological interface that does not exist in this form anywhere else in the South Tyrolean wine-growing region. The soils with a high clay content absorb the warmth of the morning sun – the Kolbenhof is exposed to the east, protected from the midday heat – and slowly release it again. Cool, structured, elegant. This is the opposite of a sweetish mass-produced spiced Traminer: dryness with character.

Düsseldorf, ProWein, 1997: Two men meet between the trade fair stands and tasting zones: Stefano Inama, who has given Garganega white wines a new dignity in Soave, and Sabatino Di Properzio, who is in the process of leading Fattoria La Valentina out of the shadow of Abruzzese mass production. What begins as an industry skirmish turns into a friendship – and an idea that Inama formulates with a joke: "Montepulciano is the Barolo of the south. We should do something together." Sabatino's answer, without hesitation: "Facciamo." Three years later, the two buy a vineyard in San Valentino in Abruzzo Citeriore at a forced sale that nobody wants. 4.2 hectares at an altitude of 350 metres, completely south-facing, at the foot of the Majella National Park – and planted with an ancient Montepulciano clone that was abandoned long ago due to its low yields. The grapes form two-lobed panicles reminiscent of the silhouette of the African continent: the "Clone Africa". Small-berried, thick-skinned, with a concentration that more modern clones cannot match. The vines, now over fifty years old, are rooted in loamy mid-mountain soil under the traditional Abruzzese pergola – and yield just 45 quintals per hectare.

The "Vigna" classification guarantees and designates the origin of a single-vineyard wine in South Tyrol. The Pinot Bianco from the single vineyard San Michele from the Barthenau winery has a strong personality that fully unfolds after an additional year of ageing in the bottle. It has a rich bouquet of green apple and banana, a full-bodied flavour with plenty of fruit, a medium, finely balanced acidity and a long mineral finish. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for the excellent Bastia Chardonnay come from high-altitude, south-west-facing plots in Monforte d'Alba, whose calcareous marl soils, interspersed with veins of clay and sand, lend the wine structure and a delicate minerality. Pale straw yellow with golden highlights. On the nose, yellow apple, pear and ripe lemon, accompanied by hints of white flowers, fresh almonds and subtle notes of vanilla. On the palate, it is fresh yet harmonious, with clear fruit, delicate acidity and a creamy texture resulting from ageing partly in stainless steel tanks and partly in used barriques. An elegant, terroir-driven Chardonnay from the high-altitude vineyards of Barolo, with the very best Burgundian charm and excellent ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Neromàccarj is the broodingwine from Gulfi's high-quality Nero d'Avola range. The vines are rooted in the single vineyard Màccari, a barren hilly landscape near Pachino, where calcareous clay, volcanic rock and sea breezes create a powerful, yet always balanced microclimate. The vines are ungrafted, some are over 50 years old and yields are low. The harvest by hand and the wine is matured in the traditional way: a long maceration period followed by two years of ageing in used barriques and large wooden barrels. All this with organic care – and a firm determination to bring the best of the variety into the glass.

Montebello is a sophisticated blend of Mammolo, Ciliegiolo, Pugnitello, Colorino, Sanforte, Malvasia Nera, Canaiolo, Fogliatonda and Sangiovese. Each grape variety is harvested and fermented separately in open Liters barrels with indigenous yeasts and manual racking. A captivating bouquet of dark cherries and earth, with notes of cinnamon, tar and grilled herbs. The defined tannins are accompanied by a beautiful acid wire. A wine with great character and beautiful structure that changes with every sip. SUPERIORE.DE

The 48th edition of a work that began in 1976 as Franciacorta Pinot and has been continuously refined ever since. Since 2017, each bottling has borne its edition number – a commitment to transparency and the uniqueness of each blend. The current blend combines 88% vintage 2023 with 10% reserve wines from 2022 and 2% from 2021, which gives the wine both freshness and depth. The cuvée is sourced from 240 certified organic vineyards in Franciacorta: 80.5% Chardonnay for elegance and structure, 18% Pinot Nero for body and red fruit flavours, 1.5% Pinot Bianco for aromatic finesse. Each grape passes through the in-house washing and drying system before being gently processed. The base wines mature for seven months in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, the second fermentation takes place in the bottle with subsequent yeast ageing for 25 months.

The combination of two such different personalities as Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon blend brilliantly in Grifi, giving this wine a unique character. The Cabernet gives the wine an extra kick of depth in the mid-palate as well as a tannic backbone that gives the wine plenty of persistence and energy.

"La Firma" - "The signature". The names of Gerardo Giuratrabocchetti's wines are reminiscent of his father's world as a notary. La Firma is a single-varietal Aglianico that matures in natural caves made of volcanic tuff, carats and French oak barrels. Beautiful ruby red colour with bright violet reflections. Complex bouquet with aromas of small black berries, liquorice and hay. Powerful and very harmonious on the palate, characterised by velvety tannins and a long, balsamic finish. Great ageing potential! SUPERIORE.DE

Above the cellar walls of Passopisciaro lives a woman whose stories are older than the centuries-old vines she can see from her window every day. Nerina Russo, mother of Giuseppe and widow of the late Girolamo, is more than just the namesake of this extraordinary white wine – she is the living heart of a family that has given Etna all its devotion. At harvest time, when their famous dishes mingle the flavours of the kitchen with those of the fermenting grapes, it becomes clear that wines are made here out of love, not just passion. Giuseppe has created a monument to his father with the winery, but has dedicated the wine that perhaps best expresses the essence of his family to his mother. Nerina embodies the soul of the Sicilian white wine tradition – a harmonious union of all the autochthonous grape varieties of Etna, which once thrived together in the mixed vineyards of the Contrade. Seventy per cent Carricante forms the backbone, while thirty per cent Catarratto, Inzolia, Grecanico, Minnella and Coda di Volpe provide the multi-layered complexity that can only come from centuries-old winemaking wisdom.

Monica Raspi remembers: "I took my first steps as a winemaker in the Omino vineyard. The grapes grown here produce the wine that is the absolute benchmark for my very personal interpretation of the Sangiovese grape."

Only one wine ever bears the name of the estate – and there is a reason for this. The Montecucco Rosso Riserva is the centrepiece of production: the wine that most directly expresses the philosophy of the estate. Italian passion meets Swiss precision – is how the Tipa Bertarelli family itself describes its approach. In the glass, this is convincing every year anew. 80% Sangiovese, 10% Ciliegiolo, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon – grapes from vineyards on sandstone, marl and clay at 300 metres. Spontaneous fermentation on natural yeast in temperature-controlled steel tanks, followed by 16 months of ageing: the Sangiovese in 40-hectolitre oak barrels, Ciliegiolo and Cabernet in 500-litre French oak Liters.

"Il Sigillo" - "The Seal". Gerardo Giuratrabocchetti's wines recall his father's notarial world with their names.

"The Stilèma project was born as a testimony of Antonio Mastroberardino's love for his land, his vines and his wines, for their original character." Piero Mastroberardino

Bright, radiant golden yellow in colour. The aromas of this crus float weightlessly in the air and range from ripe banana, peach and marzipan to Amalfi lemons and quinces. The palate is creamy and surprisingly tannic for a white wine, with firm, crisp acidity and terrificcomplexity. Layer by layer, the components of this characterful white wine unfold into a refined potpourri that impressively demonstrates Luigi Moro's great class. A Greco di Tufo with huge ageing potential and, for us, like something from another planet. SUPERIORE.DE

Feudi's Riserva Piano di Montevergine is only vinified in outstanding years. The wine has a very impressive concentration and great richness in every vintage. Dark and brooding on first impression, it slowly awakens in the glass with a captivating blend of menthol, mint and exotic spices that evolves with a lively note of cinnamon-dusted redcurrant. This velvety-smooth and elegant wine appears heavy at first, but is quickly enlivened by a core of vibrant acidity and zesty citrus notes that embellish the tart black fruits. The tannins on the finish are sweet and chalky, while notes of wild red plum and blood orange keep the tasterer coming back for more. SUPERIORE.DE

Here, the Falanghina grape variety is redefined with impressive nuances and elegance at the highest level: Light straw yellow with golden reflections. Ripe herbal aromas, tonic, sweet lemon, grapefruit and apricot on the nose. Juicy and penetrating on the palate, with a delightful floral lift and energy that leads seamlessly into the long, complex finish with a savoury bite and pronounced minerality. A beautiful, distinctive single-vineyard Falanghina in a class of its own. SUPERIORE.DE

Confini can justifiably be described as one of Friuli's best white wines. This crescendo is an exciting blend of Gewürztraminer, Pinot Grigio and Riesling, with the strong flavours of Traminer clearly leading the way. Medium-bodied on the palate, with a creamy fullness and silky intensity, with hints of tropical fruit, gingerbread and exotic flowers. In the final third, the palate is then again wide-ranging, full of freshness, juicy acidity and grace - and with the lasting, deep impression that more than does justice to a top wine from this appellation. SUPERIORE.DE

Essence Noir is the prestigious top of the Essence line – an Extra Brut made from 100% Pinot Nero, carefully vinified in white using the classic method with perfect dosage. Around 48 months on the lees give it depth, texture and savoury sophistication. On the nose, aromas of yellow citrus fruit, grapefruit, brioche, toasted almond and a hint of dried herbs. On the palate, it is complex and focussed – an ultra-fine perlage carries a dense, yet linear texture. The acidity is precise, the body powerful, yet compact and with terrificinterplay of fruit, flavour and minerality. The long, salty-mineral final is clear and persistent – with a moderate dosage that never overwhelms but leaves an original tension. Essence Noir is a masterpiece of balance. SUPERIORE.DE

This Riserva is only made available each year in very small quantities to hand-picked specialist retailers and top restaurants. Brilliant ruby red colour. Fine raspberry and floral notes dominate the spicy nose. Very juicy on the palate, tannins and acidity are well integrated. Riecines Riserva has length and suppleness right through to the long fruity finish. The elegance and fine melting texture are impressive. Once again, this is Sangiovese at the top level that Riecine is known for! SUPERIORE.DE

Falanghina is experiencing a true renaissance under Luigi Moio. What was long regarded as a "simple" regional grape variety is developing into a white wine of surprising complexity and finesse in the hands of the oenology professor. Via del Campo – named after the characteristic country lanes of Irpinia – represents Moio's vision of a modern interpretation of this indigenous variety. In the vineyards of Lapio, the Falanghina vines grow on calcareous soils with volcanic inclusions, which give the region its mineral character. The vines, which are over forty years old, have adapted perfectly to the terroir and produce concentrated grapes with a pronounced aromatic intensity. The altitude of 450 metres provides the necessary temperature fluctuations that give Falanghina its characteristic balance between strength and elegance.