Valpolicella & Amarone

After the Second World War, Felice Dal Cero moved from Verona to Lugana di Sirmione on Lake Garda, where he began making wine. His son Pietro subsequently built up Ca’ dei Frati into one of Lombardy’s most prestigious estates – and, in 1969, was one of the co-signatories of the first Lugana DOC Disciplinare, the region’s first Denomination of Controlled Origin. When Pietro died in 2012, he left his children – Igino, Gian Franco and Anna Maria – not only a vineyard – but also a legacy. The siblings acquired further vineyards in Pian di Castagnè, in the eastern part of Valpolicella, near the Luxinum vineyard, on calcareous-marly soils with white and red flake-like rocks – —a terroir with a distinctly mineral character. It marked a return to their father’s roots. They therefore dedicated the wine they produce here to him: Pietro dal Cero – the father, to whom they gave back what he himself could never see again.

The Cantina Zýmē was built into a 15th century sandstone grotto – the tunnel where the mattoni were once quarried, which gave Verona's churches and villas their walls. Celestino Gaspari has dedicated his best wine to this place: La Mattonara. The label shows a vine leaf whose veins have been replaced by the lines of a fingerprint. The inscription reads: "massima espressione di identità." The maximum expression of the self. Speaking of wine – and of a person at the same time. La Mattonara is only created in exceptional years.

Three years after the Annata, Romano and his sons launch a small edition of the same vintage in large formats. As every year, the secret star of the house gives the Dominator in Dal Forno style. Dark and dense, it reveals an intense bouquet with marmalade-like aromas of red and dark fruits, alongside which spices and wood, tobacco and chocolate echo. At the same time, the youthful and stormy taste is an overwhelming demonstration of power. SUPERIORE.DE

As every year, the star of the house gives the Dominator in the Dal-Forno style. Dark and dense, it reveals an intense bouquet with jammy aromas of red and dark fruits, alongside spices and wood, tobacco and chocolate. At the same time, the youthful, stormy flavour is an overwhelming demonstration of power. SUPERIORE.DE

Three years after the Annata, Romano and his sons launch a small edition of the same vintage in large formats. The 2015 Valpolicella Superiore Monte Lodoletta is a particularly elegant, pretty and typical expression of the Dal Forno style. Black cherries dipped in rum, plum sauce, brown spices and a hint of cocoa rise from the glass. Silky and polished, it seamlessly washes over the palate with ripe red and blackcurrants, while leaving minerals and a fine layer of tannins behind. Spicy acids add tension as the wine tapers off in a structured way, with notes of mocha and mentholated herbs that linger. SUPERIORE.DE

2016 was not an easy year in Valpolicella – and Romano Dal Forno still delivered. That sounds obvious, but it's not: in years like 1992, 2005, 2007 or 2014, there was simply no Amarone. That is the currency in which trust is bought here. Dal Forno Romano has its own clock ticking for the release of the large bottles: they come onto the market three years after the 0.75 litre bottle. What this means for 2016 is obvious. After six weeks of appassimento, 36 months in new barriques and long maturation in the large format, this Valpolicella has reached a level of maturity that only the large glass can appreciate.

Three years after the Annata, Romano and his sons launch a small edition of the same vintage in large formats. Dark and dense, it reveals an intense bouquet with marmalade-like aromas of red and dark fruits, alongside which spices and wood, tobacco and chocolate echo. At the same time, the youthful, stormy taste is an overwhelming demonstration of power. SUPERIORE.DE

The name Tre Terre refers to the origin of the grapes for the Quintarelli family's new masterpiece: they come from the municipalities of Negrar, Marano and Sant'Ambrogio. Its style, with its more pronounced tannins, spiciness and tangy acidity, differs greatly from the winery's classic Amarone range. Red cherries and herbs come to the fore, and overall it has an astonishing minerality and objectivity for Amarone, which makes it more recognisable as an aristocratic Barolo than a more powerful Amarone. Very idiosyncratic in its interpretation, but with its rough edges as always in a class of its own! SUPERIORE.DE

A monument of wine! Brilliant dark ruby colour. Fresh, silky, elegant - and majestic. Blackberry jam, violets, bittersweet chocolate, plus crushed rock and minerality. An opulent wine with fabulously polished tannins and considerable ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

A monument of wine! Brilliant dark ruby colour. Fresh, silky, elegant - and majestic. Blackberry jam, violets, bittersweet chocolate, plus crushed rock and minerality. An opulent wine with fabulously polished tannins and considerable ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

At the time, Marco Dal Forno initially held back his Amarone from the 2016 vintage – he released the 2017 vintage earlier because 2016 was not yet ready. At Dal Forno Romano, the wine determines the schedule. This is all the more true for the large formats: they are released three years after the 0.75-litre bottle – i.e. another three years later than an already later release. What this means for 2016 can be felt in the glass. Created under conditions that demand everything in the Val d'Illasi: three months of appassimento in the well-ventilated drying rooms of the Lodoletta, controlled fermentation in steel tanks with computer-controlled pump-overs, new barriques made from French and American wood, then the large format that requires hours of aeration – that needs hours of aeration before it begins to open.

In 1958, Bertani produced his first Amarone. The category was virtually non-existent, and "Amarone" is a new term for an age-old practice, yet most producers were still unsure whether this dry Appassimento wine had a future. Bertani, however, had no doubts at the time. Since then, the estate has been one of the leading voices behind a wine that is now considered one of the world's longest-lived reds. The key is patience. Corvina and Rondinella from the Tenuta Novare in Arbizzano di Negrar – vineyards dedicated exclusively to Amarone grapes – hand-harvested from the second week of September.

Giovanni Allegrini used to describe his vineyard in a way that no Oenologist would ever use: "The morning sun, dispelling the shadows of the night, awakens nature and gently caresses the grapes." He was proud of this slope – “The wild mountain” – because its eastern exposure ensures that the first light of day hits the grapes before the heat arrives. A consistent ripening, subtle and patient, like everything that aims to be truly good. Fieramonte is the estate’s highest and most demanding vineyard. Corvina Veronese provides the structure and red fruit. Corvinone the body. Rondinella the freshness. And Oseleta – one of the rarest, oldest Veronese grape varieties – almost forgotten, preserved by Allegrini – adds a dark, tannic complexity that no other wine from the appellation possesses to the same degree.

Three years after the Annata, Romano and his sons launch a small edition of the same vintage in large formats. Dark and dense, it reveals an intense bouquet with marmalade-like aromas of red and dark fruits, alongside which spices and wood, tobacco and chocolate echo. At the same time, the youthful, stormy taste is an overwhelming demonstration of power. SUPERIORE.DE

The Cantina Zýmē was built into a 15th century sandstone grotto – the tunnel where the mattoni were once quarried, which gave Verona's churches and villas their walls. Celestino Gaspari has dedicated his best wine to this place: La Mattonara. The label shows a vine leaf whose veins have been replaced by the lines of a fingerprint. The inscription reads: "massima espressione di identità." The maximum expression of the self. Speaking of wine – and of a person at the same time. La Mattonara is only created in exceptional years.

At the time, Marco Dal Forno initially held back his Amarone from the 2016 vintage – he released the 2017 vintage earlier because 2016 was not yet ready. At Dal Forno Romano, the wine determines the schedule. This is all the more true for the large formats: they are released three years after the 0.75-litre bottle – i.e. another three years later than an already later release. What this means for 2016 can be felt in the glass. Created under conditions that demand everything in the Val d'Illasi: three months of appassimento in the well-ventilated drying rooms of the Lodoletta, controlled fermentation in steel tanks with computer-controlled pump-overs, new barriques made from French and American wood, then the large format that requires hours of aeration – that needs hours of aeration before it begins to open.

A monument of wine! Brilliant dark ruby colour. Fresh, silky, elegant - and majestic. Blackberry jam, violets, bittersweet chocolate, plus crushed rock and minerality. An opulent wine with fabulously polished tannins and considerable ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

A monument of wine! Brilliant dark ruby colour. Fresh, silky, elegant - and majestic. Blackberry jam, violets, bittersweet chocolate, plus crushed rock and minerality. An opulent wine with fabulously polished tannins and considerable ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE