Organic

The Popoli vineyard bears witness to the fact that the Valle Reale plateau has been a wine-growing area since time immemorial. Several rows of this vineyard stretch out in front of the ruins of a cave cellar dating back to 1300. This is where the Benedictine monks from the monastery of San Benedetto in Perillis produced and stored their wine. A small plot of around 1 hectare is dedicated to Trebbiano d'Abruzzo.

When Giorgio Rivetti saw the hills of Neive, he immediately recognised the potential lying dormant in this Barbaresco commune: soils and exposures in which he saw the characteristics of the most prestigious crus combined. He bought the land. The Rivettis have since established a presence in Neive with four vineyards, each with its own character, each with its own voice in the estate's Barbaresco orchestra. Bordini is the most delicate of these voices.

For some years now, Matteo Catania has been holding back a few hundred bottles of his wines in the best vintages in order to offer them to his most loyal importers after a few years. From this "private reserve" comes Nerosanloré 2010, which is now - in spring 2023 - offered in small quantities with 9 years of further bottle ageing quasi in Riserva quality.

The Romanesque Pieve di San Marcellino was built in the year 1000. It still stands today – in the middle of the vineyards of Rocca di Montegrossi, seven kilometres south of Gaiole, at the southern tip of the Chianti Classico. The vineyard bears its name. And the vines that surround it are older than most of the appellations that appear on labels today. Marco Ricasoli-Firidolfi is a descendant of Baron Bettino Ricasoli – the "Iron Baron" who defined the formula for Chianti Classico in the 19th century. Not as a marketing idea, but as a genetic link to this soil. The vineyard has been certified organic since 2010 and has been planted with Pugnitello alongside Sangiovese since 2006 – an autochthonous Tuscan grape variety that was almost extinct in the 1980s. Pugnitello deepens the colour, thickens the structure and sharpens the profile of the Sangiovese grape. Hand-picked, separate fermentation of both varieties on wild yeasts in upright wooden tanks, 24 months in Allier barriques and tonneau, bottled unfiltered. Only produced in outstanding vintages – the 2020 is one of them.

San Giusto a Rentennano – the name is of Etruscan origin and carries the centuries within it. The medieval estate is located in the southernmost tip of the Chianti Classico, where the area meets the upper reaches of the Arbia and the hills become wider, quieter and rougher. A Cistercian monastery once stood here – san Giusto alle Monache. In 1204, the Florentines fortified the area as a border post to Siena. The underground vaults from that time are now the storage cellars of the Martini di Cigala. The family has owned the estate since 1914 and Luca, Francesco and Elisabetta now run it with the conviction that has defined the house since the early 1980s: Sangiovese needs no shortcuts. It needs low yields, ripe harvestand time. Organically farmed since 2006, green pruning in July and August by 30 to 50 per cent. 95% Sangiovese, 5% Canaiolo harvested by hand.

Poggio San Polo Brunello is a selection of the best grapes from the estate's various vineyard sites. It opens very engagingly with dark fruit, including plenty of black cherry and dark plum, optimally rounded off by a fine balsamic herbal spice and notes of white pepper. The palate has an almost perfect texture, a suppleness and silkiness that is refreshed and carried by a well-proportioned, refined Sangiovese acidity. Dark berry flavours, long, deep and with a very remarkable, slightly mineral final. SUPERIORE.DE

Poggio San Polo Brunello is a selection of the best grapes from the estate's various vineyard sites. It opens very engagingly with dark fruit, including plenty of black cherry and dark plum, optimally rounded off by a fine balsamic herbal spice and notes of white pepper. The palate has an almost perfect texture, a suppleness and silkiness that is refreshed and carried by a well-proportioned, refined Sangiovese acidity. Dark berry flavours, long, deep and with a very remarkable, slightly mineral final. SUPERIORE.DE

The rosé version of the Vin Santo, the Occhio di Pernice (Eye of the Partridge), is created using the red Sangiovese grape variety. Dark and copper-coloured in the glass. Fascinating bouquet of smoke, honey, caramel and dried apricots. Exotic, full-bodied on the palate with a wonderful balance of freshness and lively acidity. Clean, almost dry finish with a racy aftertaste of dried fruit and spices. Exciting and stimulating! SUPERIORE.DE

A Barbera with a closed gaze – as if you were looking into a dark, purple-red depth from which concentrated essences rise. Scarrone Vigna Vecchia comes from vines that are decades old – partly planted around 1918 – in the Scarrone vineyard near Castiglione Falletto. In the cellar, spontaneous fermentation takes place in stainless steel, followed by around 16 months of ageing in predominantly French barriques (proportion new), where intelligent use of wood subtly helps the terroir. The 2021 vintage brought full maturity, dense fruit and clear acidity – the best prerequisites for an expressive but elegant Barbera with Storage potential.

When Lamole di Lamole acquired this two-hectare cru in 2017, they didn't just take over vines – they took over a legacy. The Sangiovese vines, planted in 1994, grow here in the archaic form of the "Alberello Lamolese", the bush training that generations of winegrowers have wrested from the harsh altitude and which they never wanted to give up. This natural terrace lies between 540 and 580 metres, exposed to the south, buffeted by the wind and flooded with the purest light. The old dry stone walls made of ochre-coloured Macigno Toscano absorb the sun's heat during the day and give it back to the vines at night – a dialogue between stone and plant that has been going on for centuries. As early as 1800, the geographer Emanuele Repetti noted: "Buon vino di Lamole, lodata campagna" – good wine from Lamole, praised landscape. In 2018, the village was declared a "Patrimonio Storico d'Italia". The 2020 – only the third vintage from this vineyard – shows what Gran Selezione can mean. The grapes undergo optical selection, ferment in 50-hectolitre conical barrels with "macerazione differita", mature first in the same containers, then in 30-hectolitre oak barrels. The result? A wine that the winemakers themselves describe as lyrical and beguiling.

This impressive Sangiovese comes from the single vineyard "Vitticciana", which was specially created for a pure Sangiovese wine by the "Godfather of Carmignano" Ugo Contini Bonacossi due to its perfect orientation. It is only produced in the best years, when it presents itself as a multi-layered wine with fine fruit and fine-grained tannins. After a few years of ageing in the bottle, it can easily hold its own with some of the best Brunello di Montalcino. SUPERIORE.DE

The Krafuss farm, whose history dates back to the Renaissance, is owned by Roland Riz, Alois Lageder's father-in-law. This historic estate near Magreid has existed since the Renaissance and gives the wine its name. In 1991, the Pinot Noir vineyards on the San Michele hill at an altitude of 430-450 metres were completely replanted – with selected Burgundy clones in dense plantings for cordon training. The 21-year-old vines thrive on loamy, rocky moraine soils with limestone content, cultivated according to Demeter-certified biodynamic methods since 2013. Malolactic fermentation takes place after 18 days of maceration in stainless steel tanks. The wine then matures for twelve months in French barriques of various sizes, which gives it structure and complexity.

It was in December 1998 when a customer knocked on Giuseppe Bisci's door and asked for "vino d'annata" – a young wine, ready to drink straight away. Yet Bisci, as a matter of principle, only sold his Verdicchio after at least two years' ageing. Giuseppe turned the customer away, but the encounter stayed with him. The high-altitude calcareous clay soils of Matelica, where the Apennines rise majestically into the sky, did not produce simple everyday wines – they were capable of so much more! The continental climate, with sun-drenched days and freezing mountain nights, gave the Verdicchio an intensity, minerality and a backbone of acidity that allowed for decades of ageing – something almost unheard of in Italian white wine. That very same day, Giuseppe turned to his cellar master, Aroldo Bellelli: "Let's make a wine for the next person who asks for a young wine – so that we can tell him: "We make Riserva, and that won't be released for another seven years!""

The first vintage was released in 2001. A wine that had no history yet, only a conviction: that the Maremma, with Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, could express something that Tuscany had not yet heard. Twenty years on, with the 2021 vintage, Brancaia takes stock in silence – and has given this particular release the suffix ‘20 anni’. Over two decades, the vines have driven their roots deep into the sandy loam soil of the Maremma. No artificial water – only what the soil stores in winter and releases in summer. The vines have learnt to cope with the heat. The grapes are becoming more concentrated, the tannins finer, the character more distinctive. This is the promise made in 2001 – and which the 2021 vintage fulfils.

Monika Bär-Bettschart spent her holidays in Castellina as a young girl. She fell in love with this piece of Tuscany – and later with Thomas. After their marriage, the two acquired Gagliole. A Swiss couple, a Tuscan Podere, a very simple conviction: If you really love a piece of land, you have to farm it. La Valletta in Panzano has also been part of the family since 2011 – ten hectares on the north-western edge of the Conca d'Oro, at 450 to 500 metres, exposed to the south-west, on Pietraforte: that compact, limestone-rich sandstone that does not yield to Sangiovese – and therefore demands the best from it.

Oro di Caiarossa is a 100% Petit Manseng, the grapes are harvested by hand at the end of October. Dark golden yellow, almost amber-coloured in the glass. Flavours of passion fruit, mango and honey are softened by citrus fruits and floral elements. Subtly sweet on the palate with graceful flavours of candied citrus and tropical fruit. A fine hint of tannin and a reasonable length on the finish. This already fascinating dessert wine has both warmth and freshness and will gain in concentration as it matures. SUPERIORE.DE

Marc de Grazia made history on Mount Etna when he rediscovered the forgotten volcanic slopes over two decades ago. His Etna Rosso – is the estate’s ‘calling card’ – now blends grapes from various plots at altitudes between 600 and 900 metres, where Nerello Mascalese grows on ancient volcanic soils. The vines are situated on the cool northern slopes of Mount Etna, surrounded by black pumice and lava rock – — a terroir that lends every sip its unmistakable mineral character.

Poggio San Polo's Brunello is a selection of the best grapes from the estate's various vineyard sites. It opens very engagingly with dark fruit, including plenty of black cherry and dark plum, rounded off by aromas of undergrowth, rose petals, new leather and wild mint. Pleasing texture, suppleness and silkiness on the palate, refreshed and carried by a well-presented, refined Sangiovese acidity. Dark berry flavours, long, deep and with a slightly mineral final. SUPERIORE.DE

Montalcino is not a homogeneous terroir – it is a mosaic of microclimates, altitudes and soil types that produces completely different interpretations of Sangiovese within a very small area. San Polo lies in the south-east, on the Podernovi hill, where the extinct volcano Monte Amiata shields the vineyards from hot sirocco winds and has left behind pyroclastic deposits that lend the Sangiovese a mineral character found in very few other vineyards. At an altitude of 450 metres, the estate is one of the cooler areas within the appellation – ; large temperature variations between day and night enhance the aromatics and acidity, whilst the dry summer conditions concentrate the berries without stressing them.