Nebbiolo grape variety

In 1982, Bruno Giacosa bought the Falletto vineyard in Serralunga d'Alba. It was the first and most important investment of his life – and it came as no surprise to those who knew him. Since the 1960s, he had been vinifying bought-in grapes from this south-eastern corner of the Barolo area and making wines that are still among the reference points of the appellation today. When the farmers began to bottle their own wines, there was only one answer for Giacosa: to buy what he could no longer rent.

There are situations that don't need to be explained – you just have to name them. Romirasco is one of them. The highest parcel in the Bussia Soprana, 395 metres above sea level, less steep than the Cicala, but more exposed, cooler, more dramatic. The oldest vines on the entire estate are here – 65 to 70 years old, Nebbiolo Lampia on Rupestris du Lot rootstock, rooted in a soil of calcareous clay with exceptional amounts of manganese and magnesium. It is these minerals that give Romirasco its characteristic flavour – the unmistakable fingerprint that distinguishes it from Cicala and Colonnello even in blind tastings. Only 4,000 bottles are produced per vintage from 3.8 hectares – the lowest yield of all Conterno wines. Romirasco was first produced in the legendary 2004 vintage, when hail damage made it impossible to bottle the other crus separately. The result was so overwhelming that the Conternos decided to vinify this vineyard separately from then on. Today, Romirasco is considered the best wine of the house.

Where the path ends, this story begins. In 2016, Danilo Drocco made a decision bold enough to commemorate the pioneering work of Carlo Negri. The grandson of the founder, who bottled a Sfursat for the first time in 1956, putting Valtellina on the map of great wine. 60 years later, NINO NEGRI 3000 was born: 3,000 magnum bottles, two iconic wines, an experiment between heaven and earth. The Chiavennasca grapes for this Sforzato were left to dry for 100 days in the cool, clear Alpine air – the traditional method that gives strength and concentration without sacrificing the Alpine freshness. The wine then rested for three years in large oak barrels at Castello Quadrio before the magnums began their journey at the end of 2020: up to the rock-cut mountain cellars of Heaven 3000 in Bormio and Ristoro Carosello 3000 in Livigno. Five years at 3,000 metres, where time slows down – less oxygen, lower temperatures, a maturing process that reveals nuances that remain hidden in the valley.

Barolo Castiglione 2018 is bright, fresh and clearly defined. Crushed red berry fruit, white pepper, chalk, mint and rose petals run through this beautifully shaped Barolo. The purity of the fruit and overall energy are captivating. Castiglione is Vietti's entry-level Barolo and is always the most approachable in the bottle range, but this vintage shows a higher level of intensity, complexity and freshness. The silky tannins are accompanied by a lovely mentholated brightness into a beautiful finish. A very down-to-earth drop that unmistakably shows off its charm. SUPERIORE.DE

The single vineyard Falletto in Serralunga d'Alba is one of the centrepieces of the Barolo region. On steep, south-facing slopes, whose marl and sandstone soils store heat and contribute minerality, Nebbiolo matures here into wines of great structure and depth. The 2021 vintage is considered one of the best of the last decade: a stable summer with cool nights and sunny days allowed for long, even ripening and produced grapes of rare balance.

Seven hectares surrounded by a hostile world. The Vigna Fracia is located where the Alpine valleys meet, where glacial winds ensure temperatures that are below the average for the already cool Valtellina. It is historically the coldest zone in the region – and yet lavender and rosemary grow wild here between the dry stone walls. This contradiction has characterised the wine since 1897, when Nino Negri acquired this parcel: his oldest, his most idiosyncratic. Where the Sforzato Carlo Negri favours concentration through drying, the Vigna Fracia chooses the classic path. No appassimento method, no sultana sweetness – instead a pure red wine vinification that preserves the Nebbiolo's alpine freshness. After fermentation, the wine rests for twelve months in medium-sized oak barrels, followed by two years of bottle ageing in the valley. At the end of 2020, the magnums began their ascent: five years in the rock cellars of Bormio and Livigno at 3,000 metres. Two paths, one goal – altitude as the finishing touch.

At the very top of the Serradenari parcel, the fruit grows for an exceptional Barolo, with which the young winemaker Giulia Negri has truly created a monument to herself. Marassio clearly benefits from the cool climate of Piedmont's high altitudes and will therefore hardly change its character even if the climate continues to change.

Barolo Castiglione is produced from a large number of parcels throughout the Barolo zone, many of which are of such high quality that they could be bottled separately. The 2019 vintage is beautiful in the way it combines the vibrancy of the year with a soft, inviting textural presence. Fresh cut flowers, mint, sweet spices, aniseed and red berries are beautifully interwoven in the glass. As the wine progresses, it shines with exquisite finesse, floral aromas and an exquisite overall balance. Ripe, silky tannins support the impressive finish. The 2019 version gives a first impression of how great this vintage is at Vietti. This is first-class stuff. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Prapò comes from Serralunga d'Alba and is, as expected, the most powerful and structured of the various single-vineyard wines from this ambitious estate. At the same time, it is also the most closed at the beginning and, with its introverted nature, is made for a long ageing period. This site is one of the last where the grapes ripen, giving them plenty of time to develop slowly and carefully each year.

Sibi et paucis – for the few who understand that great wines are not in a hurry. Sandrone retains around 10 per cent of the production from each Aleste vintage and allows these bottles to mature for a full decade longer in his own cellar. What could have been released in September 2019 remains dormant until today – and is becoming something that goes beyond regular Barolo.

Within Falletto there is a parcel of land that Bruno Giacosa thought of separately early on. Vigna Le Rocche – officially recognised as an independent site within the MGA Falletto, on the upper part of the amphitheatre, exposed south to south-west, with the oldest vines of the entire estate. 47-year-old vines, deeply rooted in the calcareous clay of Serralunga, at more than 400 metres. Less yield, more concentrated grapes, an aroma that is similar to that of the Falletto – and yet surpasses it.