Nebbiolo grape variety

Bussia is the beating heart of Aldo Conterno – those five hectares in Bussia Soprana from which it all began. When Aldo bought Cascina Favot in 1969 and parted company with his brother Giovanni, he did so not out of rebellion, but out of conviction: He wanted to make Barolo friendlier, more accessible, without betraying its soul. Shorter macerations, pumping over instead of submerged pomace cap – these techniques quickly threw him into the "modernist" camp. But because he never gave up the large Slavonian oak barrels, his wines lack the barrique lustre that characterises many modern Barolo. The Barolo Bussia is the classic base cuvée – a blend from various parcels of Bussia, from vines at least 20 years old. Vinification follows the Conterno philosophy: manual harvest in mid-October, temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts, two to three weeks of maceration depending on the vintage. The wine is then aged for 26 months in large Slavonian oak barrels of 25 to 75 hectolitres, which are replaced every 15 to 18 years. This is followed by a further year of bottle ageing – for a total of three years before the wine leaves the winery.

Pajana - the most modern wine in the entire Clerico range - presents itself as a closed, compact wine with great potential. Rich ruby colour with a slight garnet rim. Compact nose, with rich notes of blackberry, dark cherries and a hint of cinchona bark in the background. Literally explodes on the palate, lots of ripe, present fruit, then opens up with lots of fine-meshed tannins, savoury depth, full-bodied pressure. SUPERIORE.DE

Currá: 2.8 hectares in the municipality of Neive, exposed to the south-south-west, where 55 to 75-year-old Nebbiolo vines sink their roots deep into pure limestone soil. This cru has always been synonymous with Barbareschi wines of exceptional structure and long ageing potential, wines that open up more slowly than their siblings and defy time with powerful, persistent tannins. The average yield is a modest 40 hectolitres per hectare – a deliberate self-restriction that guarantees concentration and expression in every berry. Currá combines the tannic power of a classic Barbaresco with the charming elegance that Neive brings to its wines, creating a wine of remarkable complexity. Andrea Sottimano treats the grapes from this vineyard with the same respectful care as all his cru wines: After meticulous hand-picking and selection, alcoholic fermentation takes place spontaneously with native yeasts. Maceration lasts up to three months, during which the cap of marc is regularly punctured in open stainless steel vats – this intensive extraction gives the Currá its characteristic tannin-emphasised structure. After transfer to wood, malolactic fermentation takes place slowly and naturally in barriques from the Burgundy cooperage François Frères, with around 15 per cent new wood being used. The wine matures in the barrel for 24 months before being bottled unfiltered and unfined and then left to rest in the bottle for another year to reach its full expressive potential.

Barolo Pajana comes from a parcel in the Ginestra vineyard, planted in two phases, first in 1971 and then in 1991, which is 350 metres above sea level and has looser sandy soils compared to the higher parts of the vineyard (which delimits the Ciabot Mentin). These conditions result in additional richness and a velvety texture. Pajana is guided by a deep sense of elegance and finesse. Its aromas show a gentle succession of cassis, blackcurrants, blood oranges, spices, camphor ash and smoke. The length of the wine is what particularly excites us: you can taste the characteristics of the Nebbiolo over many minutes. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for Clerico's entry-level Barolo come from younger vines in the top vineyards of Pajana, Ciabot Mentin and Percristina (Mosconi). The 2021 vintage is considered one of the best of the last decade: a balanced vegetation cycle with warm, sunny days and cool nights promoted even ripening and preserved the concise acidity structure. In the glass, it shines a rich garnet red with ruby-coloured reflections. The nose reveals a clear, complex aroma of ripe cherry, dark plum and dried rose, complemented by hints of violet, tobacco, liquorice and a fine, balsamic note. Powerful and precise on the palate, with juicy fruit, present, well-integrated acidity and taut, fine-grained tannins that promise a long development. The 2021 still needs to develop a little, but the essential components are already very convincing today. SUPERIORE.DE

The great Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra from the historic Clerico vineyard. Bright garnet red colour. Open-hearted bouquet of ripe fruit and spices, the elegant tannins are accompanied by a pleasant freshness in the complex flavour, deep and long on the finish. SUPERIORE.DE

The loose, sandy soils of Cannubi always ensure a special concentration of flavour, and this is particularly evident in this classic vintage. A clean bouquet of small red berries, violets and dried rose petals. A fine mineral note, a pinch of salt and plenty of fruit and a clearly contoured tannin structure on the multi-layered palate. A beautifully straightforward wine, powerful and elegant. SUPERIORE.DE

Some wines have to fight for their recognition over years, while others are in the limelight from birth. For a long time, Barolo Le Vigne was the "second" Barolo in the Sandrone family, standing in the shadow of the iconic Cannubi Boschi – until connoisseurs and critics gradually realised that there was no hierarchy here, but rather equality. Today, after more than three decades since the first vintage in 1990, Le Vigne is no longer a complement to Aleste, but its congenial partner – a wine that perfects the ancient Piedmontese art of blending several vineyard sites and increasingly holds a candle to Aleste.

2019 is considered one of the vintage highlights of the last decade in Barolo: cool nights, sunny days and a long vegetation period led to perfectly balanced ripeness. In Bricco Pernice, this meant maximum aromatic clarity and structural depth. The high, south-westerly exposure in the Ravera cru site ensures an interplay of warmth and freshness, while the calcareous marl soils promote a taut, vertical style.

Bricco Pernice, usually harvested a little earlier, is a warm, south-facing plot in the top Ravera vineyard at an altitude of 320 metres. Cognos Barolo offers the depth, richness and concentration that characterise this site and vintage. Blood orange, mint, sweet red cherry, star anise and a range of spicy notes give it an impressive aromatic and flavour complexity. Medium-bodied, refined and expressive on the palate, it has a lot to offer. The best thing is that, despite its potential, it is easy to drink after just a few years in the bottle. It is a graceful wine: polished, nuanced, elegant and impeccably balanced. SUPERIORE.DE

Cerequio is considered one of the grand cru sites of Barolo and has been an integral part of the Michele Chiarlo icons for decades. The steep slopes between La Morra and Barolo face south-east and south-west, with calcareous marl and fine veins of sand that give the Nebbiolo here an unmistakable combination of depth, finesse and flavour. The vines, some of which are over 30 years old, produce wines of remarkable complexity in mature vintages. The 2019 vintage was characterised by a balanced vegetation cycle: a cool spring, followed by warm, sunny summer months and moderate temperatures in September, which allowed for slow, complete ripening. After gentle fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, the wine matured for two years in large French oak barrels before being further refined in the bottle.

In the summer of 1983, Elio Altare picked up a chainsaw and sawed up his father's old Slavonian barrels. An act of rebellion, a break with tradition – and the start of a revolution in Barolo. His father disinherited him as a result, but Elio remained true to his path: Burgundian vinification, French barriques, shorter maceration and ageing times. The Langhe traditionalists were horrified. But the wines? They sold immediately. Today, Elio Altare is considered one of the "Barolo Boys", a pioneer of the modern Barolo style – and the Arborina is his flagship.

The Ciabot Mentin vineyard is located in the Ginestra area and represents the uppermost part of the hill, whose fruit is planted at 410 metres above sea level. This vineyard was planted in 1978. Like the other Clerico Baroli, it matures both in barriques (eight months) and in the bottle (one year). Ciabot Mentin opens with fleshy, floral aromas of lilac and dried lavender that give way to wild berries, cherries and candied orange peel. There is virtually none of the tar or asphalt-like tones often found in Nebbiolo here. Instead, the wine reveals bright primary fruits and a delicate, ethereal complexity. It is gentle, refined, silky and very long. SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Cerretta Vigna Bricco Riserva 2018 comes from an exposed, high-altitude parcel in Serralunga d'Alba. The soils here are characterised by calcareous marl with iron- and manganese-rich inclusions, which give the wine an unmistakable, cool radiance and distinctive tannin structure. The south-east orientation ensures even sunshine, while cool night winds preserve the aromatic precision of the grapes. The 2018 vintage was characterised by a mild spring, followed by a warm but not extremely hot summer, which allowed the Nebbiolo to ripen gently and evenly. The harvest was not carried out until October, selectively and by hand, in order to bring in only perfectly ripe harvest. The wine was matured for 30 months in barriques, a small proportion of which were new, followed by several years of ageing in the bottle, as required by the Riserva status.

Barolo Ornato is a great wine every year. It captures the true character of Serralunga with its wild herbs, minerals and ferruginous notes. Its bouquet shows small berry fruits and cassis, framed by gravel, forest floor, blue flowers and candied orange peel. The wine also has a dusty, mineral note and is intense on both the nose and palate. Ornato sets in with finely integrated tannins and an acidity that sustains all these fruit flavours. A wine that is consistently vertical, straightforward and frontal. SUPERIORE.DE

A beautiful, very sensual, feminine wine that is only vinified in the best vintages. Exquisitely flavoured with dark fruit, elegant and fine on the palate with plenty of fruit and length. It was named after the nickname once given to the young wild Clerico by his father: Aeroplan Servaj - wild aeroplane. And the labelling is just as wild and creative - there are six different labels! SUPERIORE.DE

A beautiful, very sensual, feminine wine that is only vinified in the best vintages. Exquisitely flavoured with dark fruit, elegant and fine on the palate with plenty of fruit and length. It was named after the nickname once given to the young wild Clerico by his father: Aeroplan Servaj - wild aeroplane. And the labelling is just as wild and creative - there are six different labels! SUPERIORE.DE

Barolo Dagromis bears its name in memory of the family that once owned and cultivated these vineyards in the 19th century – a symbol of the combination of history and modern vision that is at home at Gaja. Today, this wine is a stylistic bridge: Nebbiolo grapes from the legendary La Morra and Serralunga vineyards are vinified separately, matured first for a year in barriques and then for a further year in large oak barrels – a deliberate blend of finesse and substance.

Il Bricco rises above Treiso to an altitude of around 400 metres. The vines are on average around four decades old. Selective hand-picking, parcel-by-parcel fermentation in stainless steel, patient malolactic fermentation. Maturation takes place predominantly in large oak barrels, accompanied by a smaller proportion of French oak for additional polish. 2019 is considered a textbook year in Barbaresco: a moderate summer, large day-night amplitudes and a long, dry autumn led to a late harvest and fully mature phenolics. The wines show density and vertical tension with excellent freshness – a profile with staying power.

The grapes come from the historic single vineyard Ornato in Serralunga d'Alba: steep, windy slopes on calcareous marl with ferruginous inclusions, at an altitude of around 350-400 metres, predominantly south/south-west facing. Each parcel is harvested separately and fermented in stainless steel; long maceration with gentle extraction. Maturation takes place classically in large Slavonian barrels, with a finely dosed proportion of French oak for texture and lustre. The typically long autumn of 2019 brought fully ripe, aromatically dense grapes with a cool acidity.

Gaja's Barolo Dagromis still flies under everyone's radar ... because Barolo Dagromis 2020 shows how tradition steeped in history and modern precision can be perfectly balanced. It bears its name in homage to the Gromis family, former owners of these historic parcels near La Morra – today married to the vineyards of Serralunga, whose cuvée is skilfully crafted. Each parcel delivers its Nebbiolo separately for fermentation, undergoes long maceration periods and matures for twelve months in barriques, followed by a further twelve months in large wooden barrels and bottle ageing.

Names carry stories. Dagromis tells of an encounter that took place in 1995, when Angelo Gaja acquired a ten-hectare estate in La Morra – from the hands of the Gromis family, who had lived there since the 19th century. "Da Gromis" means "by the Gromis" in Italian, a linguistic nod to the people who shaped these slopes for generations. It is a nod to the past and at the same time a statement of the present: Gaja in Barolo, not just in Barbaresco. The vineyards are located in two of Barolo's most important terroirs: La Morra and Serralunga d'Alba. The grapes from La Morra come from the legendary Cerequio cru – the south-east exposed part from which the great Conteisa also comes – and from the Silio vineyard. Grapes from Serralunga, directly adjacent to the Sperss vineyard, give the wine the strength and structure for which this municipality is famous. The vinification follows Gaja's philosophy of separate processing: each vineyard is fermented separately, macerated and matured for twelve months in small French barriques. Only then are the wines blended and matured for a further eighteen months in large tonneau barrels. A total of thirty months before the wine is bottled – time that you can taste.

Elvio Cogno's Barolo Cascina Nuova is the most accessible of the many excellent Barolos produced by this leading winery in the municipality of Novello. The fundamental value this wine offers is even more irresistible in a perfect and classic vintage like 2021. Opens beautifully in the glass and unfolds its aromas of redcurrants and wild berries. This is accompanied by typical varietal notes of liquorice, cola and camphor ash in a firm, medium-weight texture. A wine that you simply have to love. SUPERIORE.DE