James Suckling

In 1994, Eugenio Campolmi made a decision that sounded like a declaration of war. Merlot – one of the most widely planted grape varieties in Bolgheri and on the Tuscan coast, the most widely planted in the world – was to become a wine that was as far removed as possible from everything that Merlot normally means: pleasing, soft, predictable. "A thoroughbred that wants to win the race" is how the house describes its goal to this day. The name – messorio, Tuscan for the wheat harvest, once the most important moment of the farming year – has become a metaphor for what the grape harvest can be: a moment that decides everything.

Marco Pallanti, young and driven by a vision, let his gaze wander over the Bellavista Valley for the first time in 1978 and realised: This was where the benchmark for great Chianti Classico wines would be set. What he saw was more than just landscape – it was the promise of a terroir that was destined to make history. Bellavista, the "beautiful view", welcomes visitors to Castello di Ama like a grand gesture of nature. Here, on 22 hectares of south and south-west facing slopes, the vines are enthroned on a sun-drenched ridge between 427 and 515 metres above sea level. It is this exposed location, this special position high above the valley, that has always given the wine its exceptional concentration and complexity. The soil tells a story of millions of years: gravelly soil interspersed with clay and limestone, a rock called Galestro and Albarese, which creates the ideal conditions for Sangiovese here like nowhere else. There are 22 plots in total, terraced and carefully mapped, but in the best vintages it is plots 1 to 19 with Malvasia Nera and the Sangiovese plots 21 and 22 that form the heart of this Selezione.

L'Apparita – "The apparition". From the highest point of this special vineyard, the tower of Siena's Palazzo Pubblico appears in the distance, hovering like a mirage between heaven and earth. It was this magical sight that gave the vineyard its name and gave Tuscany's first 100% Merlot its mysterious soul. High up in the Bellavista Valley, at 490 metres above sea level, two small plots of 3.84 hectares of vines are enthroned. Here, where Canaiolo and Malvasia Bianca still grew in 1975, the Merlot vines of clone 342 now stretch out in a perfect north-south orientation. The soil – predominantly clay on calcareous subsoil – and the revolutionary lyre training system create a microclimate that makes this cru a crown jewel of world wine production.

Michele Satta is one of Italy's greatest ambassadors for the Viognier grape, which he has almost single-handedly brought to this part of the Tuscan coast. His Viognier is sophisticated and seductive, making it the object of desire for wine lovers all over the world. Its inimitable bouquet of apricot and peach exudes an almost cheerful floweriness. Maturation in a combination of cement, oak and amphorae gives this expressive, flavoursome white wine a beautiful note. A dense white wine that spreads softly across the palate with a lovely salty freshness and a long, delicious finish. From the 2024 vintage, it is a 100% Bianco from the Bolgheri DOC. SUPERIORE.DE

Curtain up on a truly grand Bolgheri debut: Barinca is a single-varietal Cabernet Franc that thrives on the limestone- and gravel-rich hills north of Bolgheri – right between its renowned neighbours, Ornellaia and Tenuta San Guido. Under the guidance of Conte Federico Zileri dal Verme, the 30th generation of the Gherardesca family, the grapes are harvested by hand in mid-September, destemmed and fermented spontaneously in open wooden vats in the historic vaulted cellar. Following malolactic fermentation, the wine matures for 18 months inLiters and large 35hl oak casks, before being bottled in a strictly limited edition of 2,400 bottles and 200 magnums and left to age in the bottle until release.

Giacomo Neri's new top Brunello was born with the purchase of a very special vineyard. True to the winery's philosophy of making wines only from the best terroirs around Montalcino, a small 7-hectare parcel with over 45 years of vines was purchased a few years ago. This was preceded by a friendship of over 40 years with the previous owners, with whom Giacomo's father Giovanni Neri planted the vines and nurtured them over the past decades.

Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore 2021 is a wine of extreme precision. It offers well-proportioned power and depth with profound layers of black fruit, coffee and liquorice. It captivates with its lustre and polished texture, which merges into great richness, concentration and structure. Enveloping as it progresses with sweet dark fruits and dark spices that linger for a long time. Ornellaia 2021 is a wonderful, if not perfect, example of the impressive potential of this great Tuscan vintage! SUPERIORE.DE

If there is one thing that Giacomo Neri has mastered 100%, it is harvesting at the optimal time of ripeness. He knows his property and his vines better than most and it shows.

If Barbaresco has a face, then it is that of the Asili. This site on the western edge of the municipality – gently undulating, exposed to the south-west, on calcareous clay soils with a fine vein of sand – produces a Nebbiolo that differs from all others in the appellation: not through power, but through grace. Not through extraction, but through transparency. It is not a wine that is loud. It murmurs – but what it says is not forgotten. Bruno Giacosa recognised this early on. He has been vinifying Asili grapes since 1967, initially buying them in, then – in the late 1990s – on his own property: 2.5 hectares, which he carefully brought together from different plots. Today, his vines lie side by side with those of Gaja, Roagna and the Produttori del Barbaresco – a silent society of the greatest. Bruna Giacosa and cellar master Dante Scaglione cultivate this heritage with the same restraint that Bruno cultivated throughout his life: let the soil speak for itself. And in the cellar, they let him speak.

There are wines whose mere name gives you goose bumps. Ornellaia belongs to that rare category of growths that not only epitomise Italian iconography, but have also written global wine history. Ever since the legendary 1985 vintage, when Marchese Lodovico Antinori and visionary OenologistAndré Tchelistcheff realised the dream of a Mediterranean Bordeaux, this name has stood for uncompromising excellence. The 2022 vintage bears the motto "La Determinazione" – determination – and this characterisation could not be more apt for a vintage that demanded everything from both the vineyard team and the vines. The climatic conditions in 2022 presented a textbook challenge: The driest start to the vintage in the last four years, from February to June, coincided with the hottest period between May and September. Extremes that initially seemed to contradict each other. The prolonged drought slowed growth dramatically, leading to low yields and concentrated, small-berried grapes. But then came the saving rain in August and September – precisely timed to restore the balance that characterises great wines. The technical team, led at the time by Axel Heinz and Oenologist Olga Fusari, responded with rigorous selection: in the vineyard and twice again in the cellar. The result of this determination is a wine that combines the positive attributes of the sun with surprising freshness.

Tenuta dell'Ornellaia has a distinctive feature that few other estates in the world possess: it renames its flagship wine every year. Not simply with the vintage, but with a feeling. Since 2006, each harvest has been assigned a term – precise, poetic, and inevitably apt. In 2023, the word is: "La Vitalità". And in this vintage, it describes not only the wine, but the beginning of a new chapter. For Marco Balsimelli, director since January 2024, who trained at Boissenot and at Gruaud-Larose in Bordeaux, took the helm at Ornellaia in the very winter when the 2023 vintage was still ageing in the barrels. It was his first complete vintage – from the selection of the plots through to the blending and bottling. A debut under the watchful eye of the wine world. And the result proves him right.

To mark the 30th anniversary of this iconic red wine from Sardinia, Argiolas has joined forces with the Sardinian creative studio Pretziada to curate an exhibition that artistically honours the origins and history of Turriga and the various disciplines of artisanal excellence on the island. This special edition "Dialogo Adagio" was also created in a limited edition of 1,000 magnum bottles, accompanied by a special print of the curated artwork.

There are wines that define a region. Pietra Marina is one such wine. When it became the first Etna ever to receive the Tre Bicchieri of the Gambero Rosso in 2007 – and when Benanti was named Winery of the Year in the same year –This was more than just an honour: it marked the birth of the modern Etna Bianco on the world stage. The name itself tells the story: Pietra Marina, sea stone – a word that combines volcanic landscapes, flint, minerality and a salty sea breeze. Since 1991, the first vintage, Giuseppe Benanti has conceived this wine as proof of the potential of the Carricante from Milo. Today it is recognised as one of the most typical, elegant and long-lived white wines in Italy. The grapes come from the uppermost, more porous part of the Contrada Rinazzo – the same location as Contrada Rinazzo, but from a sector with less sandy, more skeletal soil. Here, at an altitude of 800 metres, steep terraces with dry stone walls made of black lava stone look eastwards towards the Ionian Sea, just eight kilometres away. The Alberello vines, some over 90 years old, are rooted in mineral-rich volcanic sand with a sub-acidic profile. Extreme planting densities of 8,000 to 9,000 vines per hectare and yields of just 5,500 kg guarantee concentration. The climate: humid, often snowy in winter, with exceptional ventilation and marked day-night fluctuations.

The grapes come from the single vineyard MGA Rabajà in the municipality of Barbaresco. 2019 is a retro vintage, so to speak, as it marks a return for Vietti, who vinified Rabajà back in the 1980s. The soils are calcareous and clayey, with a south/south-west exposure and an altitude of around 235-315 metres above sea level. The average age of the vines is 51 years and they are cultivated according to the Guyot system. Intense garnet red colour. Opulent and delicate on the nose with floral scents of rosehips and violets and ripe black cherry. Amazingly fresh and enveloping for a mature Riserva from the very first sip. The tannins are ripe, soft, silky and wonderfully integrated, giving the wine a great structure and elegance. What completely won us over during the tasting was the almost immeasurable length of the wine, which is still resonating as we write this. Complimenti! SUPERIORE.DE

Mosconi 2021 comes from one of the most renowned crus of Monforte d'Alba – a site known for its brooding, clay-limestone soils and south-westerly exposure. The terroir here gives the Nebbiolo particular depth, warmth and structural density. The 2021 vintage was almost ideal in the Langhe: a cool, slow start to the growing season, followed by a stable summer without heat stress and a dry, sunny autumn created perfect conditions for the grapes to ripen slowly, with high aromatic complexity and finely polished tannins.

A wine that made history. When Francesco Ricasoli presented Casalferro for the first time in 1993, it marked the beginning of a new era for the venerable Castello di Brolio and cemented Ricasoli's membership in the elite of Italian oenology. Today, almost three decades later, Casalferro 2019 is a prime example of how a French grape variety matures to exceptional perfection on Tuscan terroir. Casalferro is the essence of three exceptional individual vineyards: Vigna Casalferro, Vigna Pecchierino and Vigna Sodacci. These 13 hectares of Merlot vineyards between 400 and 500 metres above sea level are the result of decades of meticulous terroir studies. Each site has its own personality: Vigna Casalferro with its sandstone and limestone soils, Vigna Pecchierino on pure Alberese limestone and Vigna Sodacci on iron-rich sandstone soils. They all share the characteristic altitude, which gives the grapes the crystalline freshness and lively acidity that characterise the DNA of the Brolio terroir.

Paleo Rosso - unmistakable Cabernet Franc and one of Bolgheri's most important wines, full of elegance and class. The name is unspectacularly derived from a weed that has long since been removed from the vineyards of Le Macchiole. Rich ruby red colour with violet reflections. Mint, white pepper, blackberry fruit and a hint of pomegranate on the nose. Finely melting on the palate with hints of tobacco and poppy seeds. Wonderfully structured and with a long final. SUPERIORE.DE

The purchase of the Mosconi Cru parcels in Monforte by Pio Boffa is one of the last major decisions taken by the estate – with the aim of complementing the depth of Serralunga (Ornato) with Monforte gravity. Selective hand-picking; separate fermentation in stainless steel with a carefully extended maceration period, malolactic without haste. Classic ageing in large barrels, moderate proportion of French oak as a fine brushstroke of texture. The 2020 vintage fitted in well with the concept: a stable summer, clear nights for ripening and precise harvest – healthy, ripe harvest, polished phenolics and generous, balanced fruit were the result.

First bottled in 1967, the Masseria comes from a vineyard in Bricco di Neive and is essentially vinified and aged like a Barolo. Since the 2018 vintage, it now comes from a small parcel that used to belong to the Barbaresco winery Socré, and it is now deliberately released a year later to provide more harmony and balance.

The legendary single vineyard Mosconi in Monforte d'Alba: steep, windy slopes on calcareous and ferruginous marl, predominantly south/south-west facing. The story behind it: Pio Boffa, who died far too young, acquired the Mosconi parcel a few years before his death as a strategic addition to the family estate – a late legacy that adds the powerful mineral voice of Mosconi/Monforte to the Barolo identity of the estate. Hand-picked from parcels, fermentation in stainless steel with prolonged maceration and gentle extraction. Maturation predominantly in large Slavonian barrels, finely dosed and flanked by French oak – always for texture, not opulence. The 2019 vintage: Long, balanced growing season, large day-night amplitude and late, highly selective harvest – aromatic precision, taut acidity, fine-grained tannin.

Cherry accentuated bouquet with hints of violet blossoms, clove, cigar box and a pleasant spicy sweetness. Dense and expressive on the palate, it opens vibrantly and multilayered and then reveals a beautiful load of black cherry, exotic spices and a fine salty vein. The perfectly balanced tannin always provides the necessary balance and gives it a racy, very long finish with its exceedingly refined flavour components. SUPERIORE.DE

The Sangiovese grapes for this wine come from the vineyard of the Empire of His Royal Highness, the Count of Turin, Vittorio Emanuele of Savoy, who planted it in 1935. The soil is a mixture of clay and gravel, rich in marl and rock, which gives the grapes a spectacular minerality. The temperature fluctuations during the day play a decisive role in developing the finest flavours, which are elegant and complex. The wine, bottled in numbered bottles, is not filtered in order to preserve all the typical varietal notes and characteristics of Sangiovese. SUPERIORE.DE

"The dynamic vintage produced rich and structured wines, with each of the grape varieties expressing their particular qualities. We got a classic Ornellaia, combining sunny ripeness with elegance in a wine defined by harmony and proportion." Axel Heinz, Gutsdirektor