James Suckling

In the gentle hills of Serdiana, where the Mediterranean sun meets ancient soils, a quiet revolution took place in the 1980s. Antonio Argiolas, patriarch of a family that has been connected to the Sardinian soil for generations, dared to do the unthinkable: he brought the legendary Giacomo Tachis, the creator of Sassicaia, to the island to realise the dream of a great Sardinian wine together. Turriga was born – not just as a wine, but as a manifesto for an entire region. The name itself tells a story: Turriga comes from the Sardinian dialect and refers to the characteristic watchtowers that have guarded the island's coastline for centuries. Like these stone sentinels overlooking the sea, this wine watches over the reputation of Sardinian oenology. This cuvée from various red Sardinian grape varieties comes from the best vineyards of Tenuta Turriga – a composition that combines Tachis' genius for blending with the authentic soul of Sardinia.

Treiso is not Neive. Once you understand this, you begin to read the Barbaresco appellation differently. Neive gives strength, weight, polyphenols. Treiso – the southernmost of the three Barbaresco communes, higher up, cooler, with more compact, calcareous soils – gives rigour, minerality and a longevity that some other sites lack. The MGA Pajoré is the voice of Treiso in the Sottimano collection: the most traditional, the most persistent and the one of the five cru that requires the most patience. Old vines on calcareous-clay soils, steep and well exposed. Organic cultivation since the beginning. Natural yeast fermentation, long maceration, natural malolactic. Matured for 18 to 22 months in François Frères barriques, half on the lees, minimal new wood. No filtration. No fining. A further year in the bottle. The same cellar method as always – and, as so often, proof that terroir is more important than technique.

Basarin is the latest chapter in the Sottimano story – acquired in 2014, the fifth cru to complete the portfolio. And also the most complex. The small MGA Basarin extends over a heterogeneous terrain with a pronounced slope and considerable altitude – a terrain that appears almost rugged in comparison to the gentle hills of other Neive sites. The soils are of Miocene-Helvetian origin, predominantly calcareous, interspersed with sandy veins – a composition that allows for both mineral tension and aromatic depth. The vines here are heterogeneous in age and exposure, which places additional demands on the vinification: even more precise selection, even more precise harvest harvestthe harvest. Then the consistent Sottimano method: natural yeast fermentation, long maceration, spontaneous malolactic, 18 to 22 months in specially made barriques, one year in the bottle. No filtration. No fining.

This is where it all began. When Rino Sottimano acquired the first plots of land in Neive in the 1970s, Cottà was his first vineyard – the south-west facing site close to the border with the municipality of Barbaresco, where the Nebbiolo benefits from two worlds: the strength and polyphenols that Neive gives its wines, and the tannin balance that the proximity to Barbaresco brings. It is the oldest soil in the family – and the most direct. 40 to 60-year-old vines on gently rolling slopes with light grey and yellowish Tortonian and Helvetic marl. Organic cultivation without compromise, natural yeast fermentation, long maceration with submerged cap. Malolactic fermentation, which is only completed in the spring after the harvest. Then 18 to 22 months in barriques specially made by François Frères for Sottimano, half on the lees, a small proportion new. No filtration, no fining.

The name is history. Sapaio – an old Tuscan grape variety, long forgotten, but not its memory. When Massimo Piccin founded his winery in 1999, he chose this name as a sign of his deep connection to the terroir. A tribute to what was and a promise of what was to come. The vineyards extend over the municipalities of Bibbona and Castagneto Carducci, 40 hectares on quaternary deposits, from loose, coarse-grained sand deposits to alluvial soils with calcareous subsoil. Just ten kilometres from the sea, a microclimate that brings Bordeaux varieties to life. Since 2015, Piccin has been going his own way: instead of the prestigious Bolgheri Superiore DOCG, he deliberately chooses the free IGT Toscana, just to be able to add the handful of grapes from Bibbona that make Sapaio what it is today. Sometimes greatness means renouncing titles and regulations.

This strictly limited Riserva is only bottled in the best years. The bouquet is perfect and profound with aromas of dried fruit, blackberries, white smoke and crushed rock. Wonderfully structured on the palate with exact proportions and an almost weightless elegance that makes it one of the best red wines in southern Italy. Still youthfully intense, it still has plenty of time ahead of it. SUPERIORE.DE

The small vineyard is located at an altitude of 500 m above the Galatrona Tower and offers the best conditions for growing the French grape variety Cabernet Sauvignon. Due to the limestone subsoil, this site is also called a luxury site (campo lusso). Intense and generous bouquet of dark fruits, leather and chocolate. Complex and deep on the palate, very focused and with increasing aeration very elegant and aristocratic. A complete red that will delight not only Cabernet lovers. Only about 1,300 bottles of this spectacular drop can be produced per vintage. SUPERIORE.DE

This Riserva is only made available each year in very small quantities to hand-picked specialist retailers and top restaurants. Brilliant ruby red colour. Fine raspberry and floral notes dominate the spicy nose. Very juicy on the palate, tannins and acidity are well integrated. Riecines Riserva has length and suppleness right through to the long fruity finish. The elegance and fine melting texture are impressive. Once again, this is Sangiovese at the top level that Riecine is known for! SUPERIORE.DE

2022 was the year of the drought. Not the first, not the last – but one that told its own story at Roccamonfina. Week after week without rain, soils as yellow as straw under the sun. And yet: the springs in the volcanic rock never dried up. The soil that Galardi works holds water deep beneath the stones, invisible and inexhaustible. Allegra Selvaggi, who runs the estate today, described this vintage with Monet – not the motif, but the air around it. The multicoloured landscape despite the drought. The beauty that arises when a terroir is stronger than the weather.

The white enigma of Bolgheri. In a region that has achieved immortality through Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, few dare to make history with white wine. But Cinzia Merli dared to – and created the white alter ego of her legendary red Paleo line in 1991 with Paleo Bianco. What began as a modest creation for local restaurants developed into one of the most enigmatic and sought-after white wines in Italy. The name – derived from "pagliaio", the Tuscan haystack – has the same poetic soul as its red brother, but its character is completely unique. 70% Chardonnay and 30% Sauvignon Blanc merge here to create a symphony of Mediterranean intensity that translates international grape varieties into Tuscan terroir. Originally, Sauvignon Blanc dominated this blend, but over the decades Cinzia has reversed the proportions – an evolution that led the Paleo Bianco from the citrusy freshness of its youth to the structured complexity that characterises it today.

Like a precious legacy, this wine rests in the history of the patrician Serristori family, who acquired the land of Donoratico in 1512 and built the magnificent villa in 1660. Today, from the shadow of these historic walls springs a wine that bears the soul of the Tuscan Maremma – where the salty whisper of the Tyrrhenian Sea meets the warm hills of Bolgheri. In the vineyards of Argentiera, the DOC Bolgheri estate closest to the coast and at the same time the highest, the grapes ripen between the Mediterranean scrub and the endless blue of the archipelago. Here, on just twelve hectares of the Villa Donoratico site, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot take root in sandy and rocky soils, while the subsoil is criss-crossed by marine flysch rock, a geological memory of seas long past.

Ugolaia is a name that carries weight in Montalcino. The vineyard is located in the classic Sesta area, exposed to the south-west, in one of the best-sunniest and best-ventilated areas of the entire estate – and it bears a tradition that is taken literally at Lisini: The "veterani" of the company, the most experienced employees who have known the estate for decades, personally graft scions from the company's own massalselection onto wild rootstocks. No clone selection from the catalogue, no technological shortcuts – but knowledge passed on from hand to hand, vintage after vintage.

This is the top wine from Il Poggione, and it is a must for anyone who collects wines from this famous vineyard. The estate's oldest parcel, Vigna Paganelli, is a 12-hectare vineyard that was planted back in 1964. It boasts a rich variety of old Sangiovese clones, which are used for the newer plantings.

Sauvignon Bianco Rachtl comes from a small micro-location of just 0.4 hectares. It gets its fine flint and graphite nose from the porphyry soils near Unteraicha in the municipality of Völs. Very subtle on the palate with fine saline acidity, fresh fruit and a long-lasting finish. If you can call one of the 2,000 bottles of this vintage your own, you can count yourself lucky! SUPERIORE.DE

White wines from Etna are always special and are in a league of their own due to the generally very old vines, the extreme altitude and the usually minimal yield per hectare. The area around the small town of Milo is the only vineyard site on Etna where an Etna Bianco can be bottled as Superiore - and for good reason: only Carricante can be planted on the steep vineyard, which consists of dozens of small terraces. When the origin of the Carricante grapes is the small parcel (Contrada) Caselle with mostly 100-year-old ungrafted bush vines (Alberelli), even connoisseurs can be excited. The soil, which was formed by centuries of volcanic activity, has numerous layers of minerals and salts, pumice, lapilli, fine and light ash. This extremely rare terroir is particularly fertile and produces late-ripening, healthy, fresh and very flavourful grapes despite the generally high thermal excesses during the summer. Less than 1,000 bottles of this exceptional wine are produced in good years, so you can imagine that we consider ourselves lucky to be able to offer a few cases of this rare wine.

A story of renaissance in the truest sense of the word: after more than twenty years of silence, Le Caggiole recently shone in new splendour. What Federico Carletti describes as an "importante lavoro di recupero" is akin to oenological archaeology – the systematic rediscovery of a 14-hectare site that had once been forgotten. At an altitude of 350 metres, on the road from Montepulciano to Gracciano, intensive research revealed the true potential of this east-facing slope: soils of marine origin, decidedly sandy, of a completely different geological character to the famous Asinone just one kilometre away. Through meticulous selection of Sangiovese rootstocks and clones, precise planting and a deep understanding of the soil and microclimate, this 100 per cent Prugnolo Gentile emerged from its decades-long hiatus.

Querciabella's Riserva, with an annual production of 10,000 bottles, is a selection of the best lots. It blends fruit from Greve, where the vineyards lie between 350 and 550 metres above sea level, with grapes from the stony high altitudes of Radda and the chalky soils of Gaiole. Tantalising aromas of spring flowers, cranberries and potting soil are accompanied by vanilla and smoke. On the palate, it is polished and pure, with a delicious, tangy acidity and sinewy tannins. As every year, one of the most refined wines of the appellation. SUPERIORE.DE

Vernaccia di Oristano Antico Gregori Riserva was not only named dessert wine of the year in Gambero Rosso 2021 (1976 vintage), but was also bottled in this 1979 vintage edition. As it was possible to bottle a little more this year than in other years, the usual assemblage of the best vintages of the last century was dispensed with this year. Nonetheless, or perhaps precisely because of this, it is, as always, a breathtaking wine that leaves nothing to be desired in terms of intensity, maturity and depth! SUPERIORE.DE

Hardly any Brunello is as authentic as the wines from Le Potazzine - they reveal the whole truth of the Sangiovese grape. The result is neither completely polished, nor is it boring or predictable. The 2020 Brunello di Montalcino achieves a degree of extreme authenticity and originality that you don't find on every corner in the appellation. It is a wine full of understatement and equally great personality, for which one must take time and leisure to discover every last nuance. On the nose, it reveals a subtle and well-composed bouquet of red roses, spices, earth and wild mushrooms. As always with Le Potazzine, there is also a wild hint of rusticity. On the palate, this Brunello reveals its powerful fruit and perfectly integrated tannins. Like a friend you can rely on, this Brunello is both a role model and a lovable buddy. SUPERIORE.DE

Crosara Breganze 2017 is a textbook Merlot: full of ripe dark fruits, blackberry pie, liquorice, chocolate, toasted oak and grilled herbs. Offering superb inner sweetness, it is both powerful and elegant, with a lush, super-soft mouthfeel. Pleasingly, a wonderfully focused mineral component saves the wine from ever being overdone. SUPERIORE.DE

Gabbro, produced in small quantities of just 2,500 bottles each year, is the essence of Montepeloso's finest Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, the vines are over 40 years old. Impressively complex bouquet of dark fruits, smoke and grilled vegetables. Powerful and muscular on the palate, revealing its pedigree and great class. Exquisite, complex, nuanced, persistent, long ... Gabbro really does offer everything you need for an unforgettable wine experience at world-class Cabernet level. SUPERIORE.DE

Gewürztraminer is named after Tramin. This is not a marketing story – this is etymology. The name of the world's most famous aromatic grape variety bears the village itself, where Hofstätter has been based since 1907. And the Kolbenhof plot is located above Tramin, in the hamlet of Söll, on an eastern slope between 360 and 420 metres above sea level – one of the most historic estates in the entire village. This is where the Bolzano quartz porphyry slab meets the limestone of the Mendelzug. A geological interface that does not exist in this form anywhere else in the South Tyrolean wine-growing region. The soils with a high clay content absorb the warmth of the morning sun – the Kolbenhof is exposed to the east, protected from the midday heat – and slowly release it again. Cool, structured, elegant. This is the opposite of a sweetish mass-produced spiced Traminer: dryness with character.

On 11 September 2001 – the day that changed the world – luca Sanjust planted 5,000 Cabernet Sauvignon vines on half a hectare of natural terraces, directly below the medieval watchtower of Galatrona. "Campo Lusso" – the luxury field – is what the local farmers have called this place at an altitude of 450 to 500 metres, surrounded by the pristine forests of the Chianti hills. A place of such beauty and favourable climate that it really was a luxury. Here, where calcareous slate mixes with marl and sandstone, Cabernet Sauvignon finds the mineral complexity that distinguishes it from the usual interpretations of this Bordeaux grape variety. The Gobelet cultivation – that ancient bush form – forces the vines to reach the lowest concentrations, while the forests protect them from the cool down winds and the morning sun dries everything quickly.

Troy is no ordinary Chardonnay. Rather, it is the archetype of a Chardonnay, as Wolfgang Klotz, managing director of what is probably the most successful winegrowers' cooperative in South Tyrol, sees it. The grapes come from two selected vineyards in Söll, near Tramin. The climate there is not only Mediterranean, but the vegetation is also characterised by rather cold downdraughts at night. Both factors guarantee optimal development of the plants and fruit. The berries are hand-picked one by one, so it is clear to any wine connoisseur that this is an absolutely prestigious project for the co-operative. It is therefore not surprising that only 3,000 bottles of this grape variety are sold in selected specialist shops and top restaurants.