Brunello di Montalcino “Helichrysum” DOCG 2021 (BIO)

San Polino | Tuscany
Az. Agr. San Polino | Loc. Pod. S. Polino 163 | IT 53024 Montalcino

29812321 · 0,75 l · 100,00 €/l · Price (DE) incl. VAT, excl. Shippingavailable immediately
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On warm days, a resinous, musky scent rises from the edges of the hedges. Helichrysum – the strawflower, which the Italians also call "Immortelle", meaning "the immortal". It grows wild amongst the rocks and shrubs that line San Polino's highest vineyards. When Katia and Gigi were looking for a name for their finest wine, they didn't have to look far. The five hectares surrounding the farmhouse lie at an altitude of 450 metres, facing south and surrounded by Mediterranean scrub and woodland. The view stretches towards Monte Amiata – the sacred mountain of the Etruscans, seat of their highest gods, the Tuscan Olympus. The soils bear witness to two mighty forces: the volcanic eruption of Monte Amiata 180,000 years ago, which left behind quartz and metamorphic clay, and the retreat of the Pliocene Sea, which left behind sandy loam and shell fossils. Thin, complex soil – poor in nutrients, rich in character. Up here, the sirocco blows in from the Sahara. The temperature differences between day and night are enormous. The grapes ripen slowly, developing thick skins and concentrated aromas. "Ah ... 2018', Katia once said of a cooler vintage, 'at last you can smell Sangiovese grapes instead of just blackcurrants and undergrowth.' Helichrysum is all about precisely this clarity – about terroir rather than heat, about soil rather than opulence.

Since 2018, San Polino has been practising "vitiforestry" in the Etruscan-Roman tradition: fruit trees at the edges of the vineyards, and since 2022 field maples between the rows of vines. The roots interconnect with the mycorrhizal networks of the vines, providing shade and boosting resilience. Microbiological sprays made from forest humus and green compost replace pesticides. "We work with scientists and university researchers," explains Katia, "to establish a microbiological balance in which no single disease dominates." The harvest is carried out by hand, usually in early October, a few days after the standard Brunello. Three days of cold maceration at 12 degrees sets the colour, followed by spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts in conical oak vats, with 40 to 45 days of maceration on the skins – gently pumped over to protect the delicate skins. Following malolactic fermentation, the wine undergoes six months of batonnage in French barriques, followed by a further three years in large Slavonian and French oak casks. Only ten% new oak – enough for structure, but not enough to dominate the wine.

A deep, luminous ruby red with garnet highlights. The nose opens slowly, requiring patience and aeration. Then: sour cherry, wild strawberry, sage, a hint of camphor and mint. Behind these, leather, pipe tobacco, cedarwood, dried Mediterranean herbs – lavender, broom, fennel. The everlasting flower itself seems to rise up, resinous and mysterious. On the palate, Helichrysum is firm, compact and concentrated – yet never heavy. A carpet of dark cherry, underpinned by exotic spices, framed by tannins that nestle against the palate like terracotta. The acidity remains lively, almost nervous, keeping the wine taut. The final: long, with hints of violet, and a lingering note of capers and salt. Anyone who opens a bottle of Helichrysum is opening more than just wine. They are opening up the vision of two people who arrived on a deserted hilltop over thirty years ago and decided to see the world as a place of wonder. SUPERIORE.DE

"A restrained, intensely sweet nose with a seductive, liqueur-like top note, brooding, invigorating and full-bodied. A powerful, robust palate with a rich, fine-grained tannic structure of high density and intensity. Grand in structure, long, complex, salty and mineral." Weinwisser

"Needs a little time to breathe, but then delights with aromas of stone fruit, spices and flowers, nicely cushioned by the oak; a velvety texture, with robust yet well-integrated tannins, and a final that is structured yet light on its feet. Impressive for its finesse." Vinum

"San Polino encourages spontaneous fermentation using indigenous yeasts across its entire range. To further enhance the vintage character of the Helichrysum 2021, it is also stirred on the lees in barriques for two months. At the moment, the wine is rather reserved. The aromas are reminiscent of curry leaves, cardamom, dusty herbs and iron. On the palate, it is full-bodied yet dense, and has not yet lost its grace – the dense, sandy tannins dominate it firmly. Although this introspective, structured Brunello is neither light nor open, it nonetheless possesses great character. Needless to say, it requires further bottle ageing." Decanter

"Very fragrant, with sandalwood, dried lavender, strawberries, ripe cherries and cedar on the nose. Medium-bodied with a solid core of fruit, beautifully framed by broad, integrated tannins that blend in beautifully. Fresh and crisp on the finish. Wonderful tension." James Suckling