wines

When French noble vines were planted in the Tuscan soil of Felsina's Podere Molinuzzo in 1998, a visionary experiment of extraordinary boldness began. Pinot Nero in Tuscany? A seemingly impossible endeavour in a region dominated by Sangiovese. But Giuseppe Mazzocolin and Franco Bernabei, who had already initiated the Sangiovese revolution with the legendary Fontalloro, once again dared to do the impossible: to cultivate the Burgundian king grape variety under the Tuscan sun. The vineyard, which covers just 2.5 hectares, is strategically located on the border between Felsina and Castello di Farnetella, on soils of sand and clay with a significant stony and calcareous component. This geological peculiarity, combined with the cooler microzone of Podere Molinuzzo, creates ideal conditions for a grape variety that elsewhere in Italy only thrives in the foothills of the Alps.

In a privileged plot south of the legendary Bricco Boschis lies the Cavallottos' insider tip: Vigna Cuculo. Here, where normally only Nebbiolo should grow, the brothers Giuseppe and Alfio have achieved an oenological miracle – a Barbera cru that combines its Piedmontese soul with the aristocratic elegance of its great Barolo neighbours. The name "Cuculo" – the cuckoo – could not be more poetic for this wine, which asserts itself like a stranger in royal territory while developing its very own identity. The plot benefits from the unique microclimate of Bricco Boschis, that geological treasure where different soils meet in a symphony of limestone, marl and sand layers. This soil complexity gives the Barbera grape a minerality and structure that goes far beyond what is normally expected from this grape variety. West-south-west exposure and the chalky-clayey soils create ideal conditions for a wine of exceptional depth.

Rubatsch is a vineyard in Terlan at 250 metres, on a south-western slope with sandy soil on weathered porphyry rock. Two thirds of the Lagrein vines for this wine are rooted here, while the remaining third comes from the Seehof vineyard in Caldaro, where the soil is loamier and heavier. Two soils, two characters, one indigenous grape variety that belongs to South Tyrol like the Dolomites belong to the horizon.

Just like the famous I Sistri, the "Collezione Privata" is a single-varietal Chardonnay. Since the early 1980s, the former LitersGiovanni Mazzocolin had sourced some of his Chardonnay vines from Burgundy and so a micro-location was cultivated here until the 2000s, from whose grapes the carefully vinified "I Sistri Collezione Privata" originates. Bright, intense straw yellow colour with golden reflections. Delicately reductive nose of spices, peach and exotic fruits with restrained hints of vanilla. Creamy and full-bodied on the palate, the ideally balanced acidity gives it structure and the fresh juice combined with a mineral-salty note carries this complex white wine into an exciting and spicy finish of quince and orange. The clearly recognisable Burgundian style of this great Chardonnay will continue to develop as it matures in the bottle, not least due to the subtle barrique ageing. Very attractive at an even more attractive price! SUPERIORE.DE

Siccagno is Arianna Occhipinti's personal monologue about Nero d'Avola – not a loud one, but a concentrated, quiet and deep-breathing one. The name comes from the Sicilian term for dry farming (sicco) and aptly describes the origin of this wine: deep-rooted vines in calcareous soils near Vittoria, not irrigated, consciously entrusted to nature. 2021 was a year with clear light, good aeration and a vegetative cycle without extreme heat or stress – perfect conditions for a subtly structured vintage. The grapes are harvested by hand, fermented spontaneously with natural yeasts and macerated on the skins for around 30 days. The wine is matured for 24 months in large Slavonian oak barrels – no haste, no fining, no filtering. Just patience and trust in what the soil tells us.

In the annals of Sardinian wine history, Angialis marks a turning point – the moment when Antonio Argiolas realised that the island could not only produce great dry wines, but also sweet wines of exceptional complexity. The name Angialis, derived from the mystical angelic figures of Sardinian folklore, refers to the almost supernatural quality of this wine, which is made from late harvested grapes of the autochthonous Nasco and Malvasia di Sardegna grape varieties. The vineyards of Serdiana offer ideal conditions for this delicate vinification: the warm autumn days and cool nights promote the natural concentration of the grapes, while the proximity to the sea provides the necessary humidity that favours the controlled development of botrytis. The grapes ripen here until November, developing the unique balance between sweetness and acidity that characterises Sardinian sweet wines. Vinification is carried out with the utmost care: hand-picked grapes are gently pressed and the must ferments slowly at controlled temperatures. The wine then matures for over two years in small oak barrels, where it develops its characteristic golden colour and complex aromatic structure. This long maturation gives Angialis the depth and elegance that distinguishes it from simple dessert wines.

The name carries three thousand years of history: the Etruscans called this land "Fèlsina" long before it was called Tuscany. When the shipowner Domenico Poggiali acquired the estate in Castelnuovo Berardenga in 1966, it was primarily known for its olive oil – there were just two and a half hectares of vines on the 400 hectares. The Vin Santo epitomises the philosophy of the estate: respect for tradition, but no fear of the unconventional. Unlike most producers, Felsina not only uses Trebbiano and Malvasia, but also adds a proportion of Sangiovese – the grape variety that made the estate world-famous with Rancia and Fontalloro. The Sangiovese gives the sweet wine structure and colour, a hint of tannin and the elegance that characterises Felsina's wines.

A great Friulano from small plots: Paolo Meroi vinifies his single-varietal white wine from vines over 40 years old on barren flysch soils around Buttrio and Rosazzo – a terroir that provides depth and precision. The wine is matured traditionally in barriques with long lees contact, which gives the wine structure and subtle maturity. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with golden reflections. The nose is complex and finely interwoven: ripe pear, white peach, candied citrus fruit, lime blossom and a hint of herbal honey. Delicate hints of hazelnut, beeswax and wet stone in the background. Powerful, silky and elegantly textured on the palate. The acidity is well integrated and the salty minerality characterises the long, powerful finish. A Friulano of a special calibre – dense, complex and with an unmistakable character of origin. Paolo Merois' signature is palpable: authentic, precise, fully committed to Friuli. SUPERIORE.DE

A secret that only true connoisseurs can appreciate: Cavallatto's Langhe Nebbiolo is the most democratic aristocrat in the Piedmontese wine aristocracy. Here, young vines from the legendary Bricco Boschis are combined with "declassified" grapes from other prestigious crus from Castiglione Falletto. The Cavallottos do not vinify Baroli from vines less than 12-15 years old – but these "young savages" find their perfect stage in Langhe Nebbiolo. The terroir speaks for itself: the unique geology of the Bricco Boschis, where ancient sea beds have formed a mosaic of calcareous marl and veins of sand. This "lingua di terra" – tongue of land – gives Nebbiolo the mineral signature that makes Cavallatto's wines unmistakable.

"Querciabella" – beautiful oak. The name says it all for a winery that has been one of the style-defining houses of Chianti Classico since 1974. Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni was one of the first to switch to organic farming here – back in 1988, when the word "organic" still raised eyebrows in the winegrowing world. Querciabella has been working biodynamically since 2000 and today cultivates the largest biodynamically certified vineyard area in Italy. The fact that Daniele Cernilli (Dr Wine) named the estate "Cantina dell'Anno" in 2024 came as no surprise to anyone who knows these wines. The Riserva combines Sangiovese from three of the best sites in Chianti Classico: Greve brings vibrancy and bright fruit, Radda taut tannins and dark berry notes, Gaiole riper fruit and distinctive limestone minerality. The altitude of between 350 and 550 metres ensures cool nights and slow ripening. Each parcel is vinified and matured individually in the cellar – micro-vinification, which preserves the terroir of each vineyard and only combines it into a multi-layered whole in the final blend. 16 months in French barriques and tonneaux lend structure without dominance.

Lodano Rosso is a blend of Petit Verdot and Merlot, seamlessly integrated with its dark fruits, blackberries and plums, nicely rounded out by smoke and tobacco from French oak and a smaller amount of American oak. The Merlot comes from the winery's famous old vines, and the contemporary concentration and richness of the Lodano can be found in this wine and, for that matter, throughout the winery's portfolio. The dark fruits and spices speak in a deep baritone that calls for a juicy grilled steak, it also offers excellent value! SUPERIORE.DE

From the historic Mosconi cru hillside in Monforte d'Alba: Fides is Pio Cesare's clear commitment to the Barbera grape – for years from a singular parcel, with the strictest yield limits and tiny production. Hand-picked, followed by fermentation in stainless steel with around 30 days of maceration; malolactic fermentation takes place gently in tanks. Ageing: around 20 months in large oak barrels (botti), a small proportion in French barriques – enough to anchor depth and texture without masking the origin.

Illivio is a subtle bridge between Friuli's autochthonous self-image and international nobility – a cuvée of Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Picolit, named after the charismatic founder of the estate, Livio Felluga, who sadly passed away in 2017. The vines grow on the characteristic Ponca soils of the Collio – marly, limestone-rich layers that lend the wines tension, minerality and depth. The 2022 vintage brought ideal conditions: a warm, sunny summer without extreme heat and a dry autumn ensured perfectly ripe, aromatically complex grapes.

"We are following in the footsteps of great Alsatian Gewürztraminers and breathing new, South Tyrolean life into the venerable tradition of semi-dry wines." Christof Tiefenbrunner

Mauritius – a name that evokes dreams of tropical islands, but here it embodies the ancient Latin name for the small village of Moritzing, where one of South Tyrol's most successful red wine cuvées is produced on warm alluvial soils. At an altitude of just 250 metres, the vineyards in Moritzing and Gries benefit from the Mediterranean microclimate, which offers both the autochthonous Lagrein and the international Merlot optimal ripening conditions. This symbiosis of two grape variety worlds – the alpine vigour of Lagrein with the Burgundian elegance of Merlot – creates a wine of exceptional complexity.

The same triad – calcarole, Pojega, Rovereti – and yet a completely different wine. Where the 2019 offered warmth and richness, the 2021 is more about precision and classic contours. The April frost noticeably reduced yields, but what followed was a gift: a summer in which temperatures never exceeded the critical 33-degree threshold for Corvina. The vines ripened steadily, without heat stress, with cool nights that preserved acidity and flavour. The subsequent appassimento in the historic drying rooms of Pojega took place under ideal conditions – dry, cool and even. The winemakers of Valpolicella simply call 2021 "l'annata perfetta".

1172 – the year in which Volpaia is first mentioned in documents. A small, fortified borgo on a hill north of Radda in Chianti, built as a border fortress between Florence and Siena. Today it is a jewel of peace and beauty and one of the most historic wine villages in Tuscany. Here, where soldiers once stood guard, the Stianti-Mascheroni families now press their grapes within the medieval walls. The bottles mature in the vaults of old churches and almost every cellar contains a tank of organic wine. An entire village dedicated to viticulture. So complete that it becomes poetic again. The Riserva is made from 100% Sangiovese from vineyards between 400 and 600 metres above sea level. One of the highest wineries in the region. Up here, where the air is thin and the nights are cool, Sangiovese develops the elegance and minerality that makes Volpaia so distinctive. Sandstone, clay and sandy-loamy soils with a high proportion of skeleton. Manual harvest in the second half of September, temperature-controlled vinification, then 24 months in French and Slovenian oak barrels.

A very special wine made from overripe and strictly selected Aglianico grapes that thrive in Mastroberardino's south-facing vineyards. The Taurasi is aged for two years in oak barrels and one year in the bottle. A wine with a fascinating personality, power and extremely high Storage potential.

The name says it all: Marne means marl soil, on which the vines for this marvellous Amarone grow. They are over 20 years old and lie in an ideal 180° direction, from south-west to south-east. Rich, shiny ruby red colour, compact bouquet with intense aromas of plum, black cherry, green tea and tobacco, with a fine chocolate note in the background. The body, coated in fine berry fruit, develops a dynamic flavour experience on the palate with a sweet fruit melt, firm tannins and a long finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Elena Fucci's exceptional Titolo wine is built for the long haul. It will continue its steady development for at least the next 20 years, which is why it is particularly enjoyable when aged in magnum format. Dark ruby red in colour, the bouquet has aromas of ripe red fruit and a fine woody spice. The wine is assembled with enormous precision, offering a balanced intensity and a beautiful degree of fruit purity that speaks both in favour of the Aglianico grape and the extreme region that produces it. Titolo impresses with its fine texture and elegantly integrated tannins. This is the kind of masterful Aglianico performance we love. SUPERIORE.DE

Eneo is supposed to be the "Grand Vin" of Montepesolo, the Italian answer to the globalisation of wines. And Eneo can do that. The blend of indigenous grape varieties, with Sangiovese and Montepulciano clearly in the foreground, unmistakably expresses its terroir and is understood worldwide in the process. SUPERIORE.DE

This Sangiovese rarity, bottled without the addition of sulphites, is only produced in the best vintages and matures for 16 months in cocciopesto, a container made from ground brick, fine stone, sand and natural fibre binder. This mixture can then be moulded into containers that are watertight but still allow micro-oxygenation. The real peculiarity of Cocciopesto wine containers lies in the material itself, which is characterised by a high thermal inertia and a certain permeability that makes it ideal for all phases, from vinification to ageing.

Fusonero is the powerful, broodinginterpretation of Taurasi – made purely from Aglianico from high-altitude vineyards in Irpinia, where volcanic soils and cool nights lend the grapes complexity and structure. 2016 produced balanced, ripe berries with firm acidity and rich phenolics – ideal conditions for a long-lasting Taurasi. Almost impenetrable ruby colour with a purple core in the glass. A rich composition of black cherries, blackberries, dried plums and liquorice on the nose, underpinned by cedar wood, tobacco, dark chocolate and a fine balsamic note. Powerful yet supple on the palate, with present, ripe tannins that are perfectly balanced by juicy fruit and fresh acidity. The mineral vein carries the wine through to a long, spicy final with hints of smoke and herbs. Our verdict: A Taurasi of aristocratic depth that reveals the great potential of the grape variety in an outstanding vintage – structured, long-lasting and with a presence that will continue to unfold for many years to come. SUPERIORE.DE

This unfiltered rosato, matured in Liters amphorae, is the result of the strictest selection of Syrah grapes from the winery. The spontaneously fermented and Demeter-certified result is just 4,000 bottles, which are sold in selected specialist shops and restaurants. A beguiling, intense bouquet of pink grapefruit, raspberry and cranberry. Taut, juicy and lively on the palate - a perfect harmony of expression, freshness and body. SUPERIORE.DE