wines

Tramin gave Gewürztraminer its name – and the world has since associated it with lush rose flavours, lychee and a body that likes to be heavy. Martin Foradori-Hofstätter thinks differently. With Vigna Castel Rechtenthal, he shows what this variety can do when the location is right and the winemaker does not stand in its way. The vineyard plot is located on a gravelly hill above Rechtenthal Castle, at the foot of Monte Roen – the highest peak in Tramin at 2,116 metres. The soil is an alluvial cone of dolomite gravel: permeable, cool and mineralised. The Höllentalbach stream intensifies the already fresh downdraughts that blow down from the mountain and significantly lower the temperatures at night. No other Gewürztraminer Tramin grows under such conditions.

Flors di Uis means "flowers of the grape" in Friulian – and the name is as precise as a promise. Gianfranco Gallo conceived this wine as a tribute to the diversity of flavours of the Isonzo Valley: not a portrait of a single variety, but an ensemble of three equal voices. 58% Malvasia Istriana, 27% Rhine Riesling, 15% Friulano – all varieties fermented separately, then assembled over eight months on the yeasts in steel. The Malvasia provides the floral fragrance and tropical richness, the Riesling the cutting minerality and freshness, the Friulano the binding character and the delicately almond-bitter finish. No wood to come between the varieties.

Bright silver-grey with a persistent, finesse-rich perlage. A wonderful nose of white flowers and light-coloured fruit. Full, broad and creamy elegance on the palate, supported by a delicate interplay of sweetness and acidity. A very expressive and sensual Prosecco Superiore from the top Cartizze vineyard. SUPERIORE.DE

From old vines in the best Lagrein vineyards in Gries near Bolzano comes this Riserva, which is strictly limited every year and has a seductively chocolaty, fruity bouquet. Rich, dark purple in colour with a slightly lighter rim. On the palate, it is velvety and elegant with a soft fullness and lively freshness, with further fruity accents on the finish. SUPERIORE.DE

The world-famous Gewürztraminer Nussbaumer has been a real benchmark for years and is also a convincing wine in terms of longevity. Bright yellow in colour with greenish reflections. Typically perfect, complex and deep, but also agile and fresh with beautiful nuances. A broad bouquet of rose petals, smoke and oriental spices. On the palate it flows silky smooth, velvety and spicy, lingers for a long time, great! SUPERIORE.DE

The Ghezzi family has been cultivating the extensive estate on the south-western slope of Montalcino since 1957 – 530 hectares in total, 50 of which are planted with Sangiovese Grosso alone, on clayey-limestone soils with silt and fossil inclusions. A Brunello that combines the power of the south with the elegance of careful clonal selection comes from this sunny, warm location on the Ombrone. 20 to 30 days of maceration, fermentation at 26–28 °C, followed by 24 months in oak barrels and a full year of ageing in the bottle. The 2021 vintage is considered a classic great Annata: late frost in April noticeably reduced the yields, a warm but never overheated summer and two saving August rains brought the grapes to full, slow phenolic ripeness.

For over 60 years, the Produttori del Barbaresco have stood for an uncompromising approach to quality, supported by over 50 winegrowers who contribute their best grapes from Barbaresco, Neive and Treiso to the community. The Barbaresco 2022 is a prime example of collective precision and classic style: the Nebbiolo grapes come from selected communal vineyards, some of which are adjacent to the crus, on chalky and clayey soils. Vinification was carried out traditionally: a long maceration period, ageing for 24 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, followed by a further resting period in the bottle.

Intense "statement wine" from the south-west coast of Sardinia: Barrua combines 85% Carignano with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot – a powerful composition from old vines on calcareous sandy-clay soils close to the sea. The grapes are carefully harvested by hand, vinified separately and then matured for 18 months in French barriques. After a resting period in cement tanks and several months in the bottle, the wine is now impressively balanced.

The Sauvignon vines thrive between 400 and 800 metres above sea level on weathered dolomite rock with a south-south-west exposure. The extreme altitudes of the Haas vineyards ensure pronounced day-night temperature fluctuations, which give the Sauvignon the aromatic intensity for which Franz Haas is known throughout South Tyrol. The mineral terroir of weathered dolomite rock has a lasting influence on the character. The vinification follows a precise concept: after a night of maceration at low temperatures, the grapes are gently pressed. The must ferments partly in stainless steel tanks, partly in barriques and then matures for eight months on the fine lees – a period that goes far beyond the usual and gives the wine remarkable depth and complexity. This long maturation period on the lees gives it the creamy texture that sets it apart from the classic lean Sauvignon profile.

Ben Ryé - the great naturally sweet and world-famous white wine from Donnafugata. The grapes are harvested in mid-August and left to dry naturally for 20 to 30 days. In September, the later ripening grapes are harvested and freshly processed. The hand-picked raisined berries are added to the must in several stages during fermentation. Light orange yellow in colour. Overwhelming aromas of apricot, peach and orange peel. Creamy notes of passion fruit and peach on the palate with an impressive elegance and length. For us, one of the best sweet wines in Italy every year! SUPERIORE.DE

The name tells a story: Barco Reale means "royal enclosure" and refers to the historic Medici hunting reserve, which was established in 1626 – a ring of walls over 50 kilometres long surrounded the area where Sangiovese, Cabernet and Canaiolo thrive today. Barco Reale Rosso is the younger, more accessible version of Carmignano DOCG, was awarded its own DOC status in 1994 and epitomises the elegance of this small but important Tuscan appellation. Tenuta di Capezzana has been run by the Contini Bonacossi family for five generations and represents over seventy per cent of the entire Carmignano production. The first documented mention of Capezzana dates back to 804, and as early as the 16th century, Caterina de' Medici had Cabernet cuttings brought to Carmignano from Bordeaux – centuries before the Super Tuscans discovered this idea for themselves. The winery has been certified organic since 2009.

There are vintages that make history – and 2023 will be one such milestone for Valdicava. In a decision that prioritises pure perfection over commercial success, Vincenzo Abbruzzese made a choice that only a true purist can make: Not a single drop of the 2023 vintage will leave the estate as Brunello di Montalcino. Instead, the entire precious harvest from the legendary Montosoli vineyards will be channelled into a Rosso di Montalcino of historic significance. What would normally be considered "declassification" becomes a deliberate art form here. All the grapes from the famous vineyards, those that would normally be reserved for the celebrated Brunello and even the mythical Madonna del Piano Riserva, come together to create a Rosso that pushes the boundaries of its category.

Oberkerschbaum – the upper cherry tree farm. The name is an expression of the everyday nature of mountain life: a farm named after the trees that lined its edge. However, what makes this plot stand out from the ordinary is its location. The vineyard is located in Pochi di Salorno, UGA Buchholz, on the southernmost border of South Tyrol – where the province crosses into Trentino. At 770 to 800 metres, exposed to the south-west, on pure volcanic porphyry without any limestone content. No other Vigna vineyard of the estate is so high, none has such a consistently eruptive geology. The Sauvignon Bianco thrives here under extreme but precise conditions: an exceptional amount of sunshine intensified by the altitude, cool nights that slow down ripening and preserve freshness, a soil that transfers the minerality of the volcano directly into the grapes. The Vigna classification, first introduced for Alto Adige by Paolo Foradori, stands here for a parcel that bears no comparison. The Riserva designation of the 2023 confirms the extended ageing process.

In 1975, the Carricante vines were planted, which today bear the Etna Bianco by Giovanni Rosso. Almost five decades of roots in volcanic lava sand, at 730 to 750 metres, exposed to the north-north-east – where the sun has to fight all day and the grapes ripen slowly, cool and with rare aromatic precision. Davide Rosso discovered this spot in 2014 and bought the property two years later. What attracted him was the same logic that guides him in Serralunga: not terroir for the sake of terroir, but one that characterises the wine, without help, without make-up. The soils of the Contrada Montedolce – volcanic sand, ash, mineral-rich subsoil, aerated and drained like hardly any other site on the northern slope – gave him what he was looking for. The old Alberello vines, trained with a double inverted Guyot, bear little. But what they do bear is concentrated. Hand-picked in October. Spontaneous fermentation at cool temperatures in stainless steel for 15 to 20 days. Five months sur lie with weekly bâtonnage. No wood. The vinification is silence – the wine should speak.

Anyone who knows Carlo Ferrini knows that he thinks in clones. 15 carefully selected Sangiovese clones grow on the Podere Giodo in Sant'Angelo in Colle, in the south-west of Montalcino – a location that gives the Sangiovese warmth and maturity without taking away its tension. Ferrini has been working on his most personal project here since 2002, together with his daughter Bianca and cellar master Riccardo Ferrari since 2020. The Rosso di Montalcino is the latest addition to this family history – debut vintage 2024 and clearly positioned from the outset: not a stopgap, but an independent voice. 1.5 hectares at 400 metres, exposed to the south-east, medium-heavy, skeleton-rich soil, 6,600 plants per hectare. The vines are seven years old – young, but already precise in flavour. 13 days of maceration in steel, délestage at half time. Then 12 months of ageing, divided between wooden vats and cocciopesto amphorae, followed by cement. Six months in the bottle. 12,000 bottles – a generous quantity by Giodo standards, but a welcome one for the market.

Uccelliera is not only famous for its outstanding Brunello every year, the Rapace, which has now become an icon, also demonstrates the high quality with which the winery has been delighting wine connoisseurs all over the world for decades. Deep dark ruby red in colour, the aroma spectrum is skilfully balanced with a mix of dark red cherries, plums, liquorice, smoke, spices and menthol. The beautifully cherry-like primary fruit is embedded in a warm texture, the silky tannin skilfully takes over on the sidelines and the wine storms into a long, nuanced and delicately mineral finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Finely structured Rosé Millesimato with elegance and depth – the essence of time in every sip. The cuvée of predominantly Chardonnay with a proportion of Pinot Nero reveals its perfection after a long lees contact. Delicate old rose colour in the glass with a subtle perlage. The bouquet combines fine aromas of red berries, particularly redcurrant and raspberry, with delicate brioche and almond notes and a hint of dried rose. On the palate, it impresses with juicy fruit, lively acidity and elegant creaminess. The perlage is subtle, the finish dry, precise and persistent with a slightly salty length. A rosé that is powerful and subtle at the same time – noble, classic, with very good balance. Ideal with salmon, tuna carpaccio, tender veal or as an aperitif. SUPERIORE.DE

Obtained from a small, high-altitude vineyard in the historic San Cristoforo cru site above Neive, this Barbaresco combines terroir depth with contemplative maturity. The clay and limestone-rich soil, the exposed south-east exposure and the late harvest characterise the concentrated style. Three weeks of maceration are followed by a long, patient ageing regime: two years in large oak barrels, a further six months in concrete and then many more years in the bottle – until it opens up with the expression that only time can give.

Sàgana – a resounding name that describes far more than just a wine. It stands for the essence of Cusumano's work in the heart of Sicily, where the Nero d'Avola grape meets the barren expanse of the Monreale hills. The vines grow on calcareous clay soils in the single vineyard Tenuta San Giacomo, whose high-altitude plots are characterised by hot days and cool nights. This microclimate gives the wine density, freshness and remarkable depth. 2020 was a year of balance in Sicily: a warm spring, a dry but not overheated summer and ideal harvest conditions in September. The grapes were harvested when fully ripe, rigorously selected and matured in barriques for around twelve months after temperature-controlled maceration. A further year of bottle ageing completes the structure and gives the wine its polished nobility.

In 1996, Elisabetta Geppetti bought a slope near Pereta. She named it Poggio Valente – the valiant hill, the brave hill. A name that says it all. The site lies at 280 metres, facing south-west, on sandy soils over sandstone rocks with clay inlays – a soil that gives the Sangiovese precision and elegance rather than weight and vigour. Elisabetta wanted something different here: a single-varietal Sangiovese cru in the Burgundian style, a wine that speaks its vineyard and nothing else. In 2014, she made a consistent decision: Poggio Valente left the Morellino appellation and has since appeared as a Toscana IGT. Not a step backwards – quite the opposite. A statement. This wine is bigger than its designation of origin, and Elisabetta did not want the lack of international recognition of an appellation to limit its ambition.

When Brigitte and Bruno Widmer bought the abandoned Brancaia estate near Castellina in Chianti in 1981, nobody could have guessed that this would become one of the defining wineries of modern Tuscany. The very first vintage in 1983 took first place in a blind tasting – the beginning of a success story that daughter Barbara Widmer is continuing today as a qualified Oenologist. The entire winery has been certified organic since 2019, a consistent development of the philosophy that has always applied here: no compromises. The Riserva combines the best Sangiovese lots from both Chianti Classico estates – brancaia in Castellina and Poppi in Radda – supplemented by twenty per cent Merlot. The sites between 230 and 400 metres above sea level bring together different soil structures: Clay in Castellina, sandy loam with a stony skeleton in Radda.