wine classics

The grapes for Le Ripi's top Brunello come from a 4-hectare vineyard near Castelnuovo dell'Abate on the eastern side of Montalcino, not far from the Lupi e Sirene vineyard.

Barolo Via Nuova is a blend of fruit from different vineyards in several villages of the appellation. Packed with cherry and raspberry flavours, it is both supple and firmly structured. Shows notes of earth, minerals, eucalyptus and aniseed that give it volume and structure, while the muscular tannins still have the upper hand on the finish at first. Deep and rich as it progresses, but never heavy. We find a hint of oak sweetness, but this only adds to the exotic beauty of the wine. Via Nuova 2021 is a wine of exceptional harmony, purity and finesse with an eternally long finish. SUPERIORE.DE

In the heart of the Valdarno Superiore, where the ancient Via dei Setteponti inspired Leonardo da Vinci's immortal landscape studies, lies the Tenuta Sette Ponti – named after the seven bridges that have connected Arezzo and Florence since Etruscan times. Here, on 300 hectares between history and modernity, Dr Antonio Moretti Cuseri realised a visionary idea in 1999: to create a Tuscan Bordeaux style that combines international elegance with the soul of Tuscany. Oreno – named after the small river that crosses the tenuta in the clay-rich zone where the Merlot vines take deepest root – was born out of a passion for Bordeaux finesse. Moretti Cuseri, fascinated by his travels to Bordeaux, had existing vineyards grafted with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. While Merlot thrives in the clay soils, Cabernet vines find their home in gravelled terraces that offer perfect drainage and natural temperature regulation. The Petit Verdot completes the cuvée with spicy notes and intense flavours.

The historic Cerretta cru vineyard is located just north of the village of Serralunga d'Alba and is considered one of the most complex parcels in the appellation. The slopes are exposed to the south-west and west, giving the vines both long hours of sunshine and cooling evening breezes. The soils consist of a characteristic mixture of calcareous marl, clay and fine veins of sand – a constellation that gives the Nebbiolo here its unmistakable balance of power, elegance and aromatic depth. The 2021 vintage brought perfect conditions with cool nights, clear autumn days and a harmonious ripening curve. The grapes were harvest exclusively by hand, followed by traditional maceration and around 32 months of ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels, which allow the character of the vineyard to shine through clearly.

The Serra site is located in the heart of Serralunga d'Alba, in the direct neighbourhood of some of the most renowned cru parcels in the municipality. At an altitude of around 360 metres and with a predominantly south-westerly exposure, the vines benefit from optimal sunshine in the afternoon, while the cool downdraughts at night ensure delayed, even ripening. The subsoil of calcareous marl with sandy inclusions gives the wines from the Serra vineyard their fine, almost silky texture. The 2020 vintage showed its balanced side: a moderate summer, a long growing season and a stable autumn ensured flawless grapes with perfect phenolic ripeness. After careful manual harvesting and selection, the grapes were gently pressed and fermented in concrete for a good three weeks. The wine then matured for two years in large oak barrels to preserve its elegance and terroir fidelity.

The Ravera vineyard on the Novello side, where steep hills descend from a castle perched on a beautiful panorama, is one of the best cru sites in the Barolo DOCG. From this vantage point, you can see Novello and the Elvio Cogno winery, which is located halfway up the slope. Valter Fissore's Ravera from the great 2021 vintage benefits from this special location and shows terrific versatility and depth every year.

Rose petals, spices and red-coloured fruit float in the glass, supported by fine, racy tannins. On the palate, the typical, medium-bodied characteristics of Bricco delle Viole are evident, while the contours are soft and the wine's personality demands the next sip. Vajra fans should give it a few more years to mature, despite its current accessibility. SUPERIORE.DE

"The new road". This was once a small vineyard on the edge of the historic centre of Barolo, named after the road that connected Barolo with Novello and was actually new at the time. Today, all that remains of this path is a narrow footpath through the vineyards. When the cru vineyard was incorporated into the larger Terlo subzone in 2010, Chiara Boschis could have simply abandoned the name. Instead, she turned it into an idea: Via Nuova was rethought – as an assemblage of six parcels that represent the entire Barolo region in one wine.

Monica Raspi remembers: "I took my first steps as a winemaker in the Omino vineyard. The grapes grown here produce the wine that is the absolute benchmark for my very personal interpretation of the Sangiovese grape."

1961: Beppe Colla makes a decision that will set a precedent in the history of Barolo: no more blends from different vineyards, but a wine from a single vineyard – bussia. An amphitheatre in Monforte d'Alba, seven hectares, at around 350 metres, exposed from south-west to south. Soils of limestone, marl, the famous "Marne di Sant'Agata Fossili". Terroir that gives the Nebbiolo strength without taking away its soul. 2021 was the year that the classic needs: a snowy winter with a good water supply, a long, temperate summer without heat peaks, strong temperature fluctuations in autumn. The light frosts in April reduced the yield – and concentrated what remained. Harvest from 29 September to 13 October, in perfect condition. Destemming in the cellar, maceration for 8 to 10 days at a maximum temperature of 30°C, malolactic fermentation before winter. Then 18 months in large oak barrels of various capacities – traditional, unobtrusive, serving.

The grapes for Le Ripi's top Brunello come from a 4-hectare vineyard near Castelnuovo dell'Abate on the eastern side of Montalcino, not far from the Lupi e Sirene vineyard. Amore e Magia first impresses with its beauty in the glass: deep ruby with violet, fuchsia-coloured accents. The nose then reveals a very clear, concise bouquet with a disarming openness that is immediately captivating. We discover candied fruit, raspberries, roasted nuts and Christmas spices, then notes of leather. The first impression on the palate is rather silky and floral, the fine salinity and wonderfully integrated acidity provide vital freshness and the solidly woven tannin builds up with energy and flanks every sip right through to the multi-layered final. SUPERIORE.DE

Chianti Classico Riserva Castello di Volpaia is a dark, powerful wine. Black cherry, smoke, liquorice, incense, mocha, menthol, lavender and leather give this virile, brooding Riserva plenty of character. The palate is very aromatic with sweet red cherries, cedar wood and nuances of blood orange, yet very powerful and multi-layered with terrific depth and structure. A dream for Sangiovese lovers. SUPERIORE.DE

Pacentis Vecchie Vigne is still one of the most modern wines of the sun-drenched appellation in southern Tuscany. Its fruit comes from old vines that are between 35 and 50 years old. You can taste the richness and smoothness of its dark fruit and the lush blackberry. However, the wine also offers hints of exotic spices, spicy tobacco and even a hint of talcum powder or buttered popcorn that comes from the oak (it is aged for 24 months in French barriques). An unmistakably creamy and rich mouthfeel in the drink through to the long final. SUPERIORE.DE

Some wineries tell their story on display boards. At Fuligni, it hangs on the walls. The palazzo in the centre of Montalcino dates back to the 17th century – the Medici resided here and a Spanish princess left a room that still bears her name today. Underneath, deeper than the palazzo itself, are the cellars: built at the end of the 16th century, with vaulted ceilings in tecnica mista, completely naturally insulated. This is where the Brunello matures in Slavonian oak barrels. It also matured here when Giovanni Maria Fuligni came to Montalcino at the beginning of the 20th century – and it matures here, just as his ancestors made wine in the Maremma before him, without interruption, without abbreviation.

This Riserva is only made available each year in very small quantities to hand-picked specialist retailers and top restaurants. Brilliant ruby red colour. Fine raspberry and floral notes dominate the spicy nose. Very juicy on the palate, tannins and acidity are well integrated. Riecines Riserva has length and suppleness right through to the long fruity finish. The elegance and fine melting texture are impressive. Once again, this is Sangiovese at the top level that Riecine is known for! SUPERIORE.DE

1172 – the year in which Volpaia is first mentioned in documents. A small, fortified borgo on a hill north of Radda in Chianti, built as a border fortress between Florence and Siena. Today it is a jewel of peace and beauty and one of the most historic wine villages in Tuscany. Here, where soldiers once stood guard, the Stianti-Mascheroni families now press their grapes within the medieval walls. The bottles mature in the vaults of old churches and almost every cellar contains a tank of organic wine. An entire village dedicated to viticulture. So complete that it becomes poetic again. The Riserva is made from 100% Sangiovese from vineyards between 400 and 600 metres above sea level. One of the highest wineries in the region. Up here, where the air is thin and the nights are cool, Sangiovese develops the elegance and minerality that makes Volpaia so distinctive. Sandstone, clay and sandy-loamy soils with a high proportion of skeleton. Manual harvest in the second half of September, temperature-controlled vinification, then 24 months in French and Slovenian oak barrels.

Barolo Cerretta is a dense, concentrated and energetic expression of Nebbiolo. Red and purple fruit flavours of cassis, dried cranberries and cherries set beautiful accents, but there is also plenty of room for the equally beautiful aromas of liquorice, campfire ash and candied orange peel that play such a deft supporting role. On the palate, it is a brilliant, polished wine with enough tannin to allow it to mature in the cellar for another 10 or 20 years. SUPERIORE.DE

Brigaldara's Amarone Riserva is a wine born from the desire to interpret Valpolicella in its most original form. The strictly selected grapes that form its basis are chosen from the best vineyards in order to maximise the potential of the estate's own vineyards in Valpolicella.

Talentis Riserva is a barrel selection that is aged for 36 months in a combination of 25 and 20 hectolitre oak barrels and a small amount in tonneaux. Pian di Conte 2019 is a classic, stately wine with lots of dark fruits, dried blackberries, spices, tobacco and mentholated herbs. The palate is polished and elegant with sweet plums, cherries and blackberries on the attack. These sweet fruit nuances are followed by spicy cedar wood and campfire flavours, as well as fine tannins and an almost endless depth. SUPERIORE.DE

In the easternmost tip of the Barolo zone, where the ancient Serravallian soils of Serralunga d'Alba force the vine roots deep into the earth, lies one of the most uncompromising MGA sites in all of Piedmont: Sorano – a name that inspires awe among Barolo connoisseurs and at the same time epitomises Matteo Ascheri's entire philosophy: To create wines that are only produced in exceptional vintages, when nature shows all its goodness. 2021 was such a year. After the tropically hot 2018, which filled the water reserves, and the equally warm 2019, 2021 created that perfect balance between power and elegance that only dream vintages can achieve. In Sorano, where the south-south-west exposure at an altitude of 280 to 350 metres brings out the Nebbiolo terroir in its purest form, 2021 produced grapes of exceptional concentration and aromatic complexity.

Serra is an often misunderstood location. Small, little known, sometimes underestimated by connoisseurs – because it has neither the full southern sun of a Cerretta nor the dramatic hillside location of a Vigna Rionda. Anyone who hears the MGA Serra in Serralunga for the first time thinks: quite nice. Anyone drinking the wine for the first time will think: wait a minute. The Rosso family's plot is located around one kilometre south of the village centre, in the upper municipal area of Serralunga, with an eastern to south-eastern exposure. No midday light to overwhelm the grapes – instead, cool mornings, slow ripening, a precision in the tannin that only this orientation can produce. Davide Rosso describes it himself: The eastern exposure intensifies the fresh, austere character of these wines. And rightly so. Those who reduce Barolo to power and flavour will have no use for Serra. Those who reduce Barolo to origin and attitude will never forget it.

Massimo Piccin is living the dream of giving new expression to Bordeaux growths from Bolgheri and producing wines that combine power, elegance and longevity. And so the Sapaio offers its full, vital and tannin-rich style magnificently and allows plenty of time for the finish. Once again, some of the grapes come from Bibbona, i.e. outside the Bolgheri DOC, so that this great wine can only bear the addition Toscana IGT.

Here it is, the impressive first Gran Selezione from Riecine, showing more grace than muscle and delivering a Riecine-typical and very precise Burgundian interpretation of the Sangiovese grape.

Gualto 2016 not only reflects the extremely aristocratic exceptional vintage, but is also one of the best Riservas from 2016. On the nose, very clear and straightforward after cherry, herbs and crushed rock. Full and supple on the palate, its texture is elegant and fine, the tannins only come to the fore in the second step and are excellently balanced. This wine will only reveal its true greatness in a few years, but it already offers an extremely tasty and engaging character. For a Riserva, it has a surprising amount of fruit and an elegance that makes it one of the most charming representatives of its kind. This wine (no more than 4,000 bottles were bottled) should not be missing in any well-stocked wine cellar! SUPERIORE.DE