wine classics

In the early 14th century, a place name appears in a document from Castelnuovo dell'Abate: "Vallocchio Brunello" – bordered between the "Podio Rubeo" and "Piage di Monte Caprile" parcels. This is the oldest documentary reference to viticulture in this municipality. Seven centuries later, the five oldest vineyards of Tenuta Fanti stand on this very land. History has never stopped here. Filippo Fanti has studied, cultivated and observed this terroir for decades. 2010 was the year – the first Vallocchio. Since then, it has only been released in exceptional vintages: no pressure, no annual promise, but a selective statement about what the place really has to say in a particular season. Five hectares, 20 to 35-year-old vines, well-draining Galestro soils of medium texture at 230 to 250 metres above sea level. Hand-picked from the second half of September to mid-October, depending on exposure and plot.

A prime example of perfect balance: elegance and structure harmonise perfectly.

Gentle balsamic notes with rosemary and lavender scents on the nose. When it opens in the glass, you can get a clear picture of the dark fruit at its centre and the delicate particles of chalk dust that frame the bouquet. The fruit for this wine comes from a five-hectare plot with alkaline soils that are rich in numerous mineral components. The complexity of the soils is reflected in the attractive bouquet, and this outstanding Riserva vintage offers a rich structure, velvety tannins and persistent intensity. SUPERIORE.DE

Ceretto's 2019 Barolo combines the power of the vintage with the subtle signature of the house. The grapes come from various organically farmed cru sites in La Morra, Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga d'Alba – a composition that emphasises diversity and balance. On the nose, a precise, deep bouquet of dark cherry, ripe raspberry, dried rose and subtle hints of tobacco, liquorice and spicy undergrowth.

Caparzo's La Casa vineyard, located in an enviable position on the hill of Montosoli, has been vinified separately since 1977 and is one of the first single-vineyard bottlings in Montalcino. Like regular Brunello, La Casa has a surprising underlying acidity that gives the wine brightness and focus, the northern exposure of the parcel certainly playing a role. Fresh herbs and pomegranate contrast with nuances of sun-baked earth and incense. On the palate, the wine is very full-bodied and concentrated, with tactile tannins, yet remains fresh and flowing at all times. SUPERIORE.DE

Nastagio (also known as Nastasio) is the name of an ancient farmhouse of the Fattoria di Sant'Angelo, which was already recorded in the maps of Grand Duke Leopold. Brunello Nastagio is released on the market five years after the harvest, as if it were a Riserva, and is the result of the many years of experience that Col d'Orcia has gained in the development and cultivation of the Sangiovese vineyard. It is also the result of the many research chapters that Col d'Orcia has been carrying out with the University of Florence for more than twenty years. The ageing in tonneaux (500 Liters) oak barrels and then in the traditional large "botti" represent an ideal combination between tradition and modernity, while maintaining the essential aspect of longevity.

Barolo Paesi Tuoi is more than just a designation of origin. The name – borrowed from the novel "Among Peasants" by Cesare Pavese – evokes Piedmont not just as a landscape, but as a cultural space: rural, archaic, full of inner tensions. And so this Barolo is not an expression of a single cru, but a synthesis of the villages, hills and soils that together form the essence of this appellation. The grapes come from different, characterful vineyards around Barolo, Monforte and Serralunga, carefully selected and vinified separately. Long maceration periods, followed by around two years of ageing in traditional, large oak barrels – the result is a classic style with depth.

Laura Brunelli's Brunello is an outstanding reflection of the appellation every year. A floral bouquet, the purest expression of cherry and strawberry imaginable, hints of mint, sage and cedar dust - all are found in its stunning bouquet. The youthful density of the ripe primary fruit contrasts with salty minerality and lively acidity, leaving a cascading and crisp impression on the palate. SUPERIORE.DE

Full, enveloping and with great persistence, Montestefano is sometimes referred to as the "Barolo of Barbaresco".

Brilliant ruby red colour with a slightly brightening rim. Impressive aroma of red berries, smoke, roasted almonds and dark spices. Taut, straightforward, expressive and beautifully long on the palate. With its classic understatement, Boscarelli's Nobile di Montepulciano is a wonderfully precise example of its growing region every year. SUPERIORE.DE

Caparzo's La Casa vineyard, located in an enviable position on the hill of Montosoli, has been vinified separately since 1977 and is one of the first single-vineyard bottlings in Montalcino. Like the normal Brunello, La Casa has a surprising underlying acidity that gives the wine brightness and focus, and the northern exposure of the parcel has certainly played a role in this.

The area is just under two hectares. Pajè is the smallest of all nine Produttori del Barbaresco vineyards – and yet, or perhaps precisely because of this, it bears one of the most striking signatures of the entire range: a freshness that never fades. The site lies to the south-west of the village, slightly lower than its higher-lying neighbours and more open towards the Tanaro. The influence of the river gives it a cooler microclimate; the soil is calcareous with veins of sand that drain well. In cooler vintages, a slight mint flavour can be detected that is rarely found elsewhere in Barbaresco. First produced in 1967 – then as a special label for the "Cavalieri del Tartufo" –since 1982 in the regular vintage. The vinification follows the basic principle of the co-operative: 28 days of maceration, thirty months or more in large wooden barrels, one year in the bottle.

L'Alberello is a beautiful Rosso made primarily from Cabernet. The wine comes from a two-hectare plot planted entirely with long rows of Alberello vines planted at an altitude of 30 metres above sea level on predominantly clayey soils. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel and the wine matures for 18 months in barriques. Starts fresh and vehement with warm, dark fruit flavours, then opens up further with a bouquet of herbs, coffee and a pinch of pepper. Remarkably polished and juicy on the palate, everything is in balance, silky and very charismatic on the long finish. SUPERIORE.DE

With the 2006 vintage, Monsanto's Vin Santo was released for the first time as "Occhio di Pernice", i.e. it was made from 100% Sangiovese grapes. It is only vinified in the very best years, the grapes are carefully harvested by hand in October and then placed on special racks where they rest until the beginning of the following year. After gentle pressing, the must is sealed and fermented in small oak, cherry and chestnut barrels in the Vinsantaia, where it is exposed to seasonal temperature fluctuations.

Dievoles Chianti Classico Petrignano is the result of the endeavour to highlight the identity characteristics of particularly suitable vineyards, leading to ever more precise expressions of Sangiovese. Petrignano is the name of a characteristic area with a soil rich in minerals and stones. At an altitude of around 330 metres, rocks protrude from the ground that are typical of the geological formation of Monte Morello. The abundance of stones, the depth of the roots and the low growth of the vines result in an expressive and lush wine from this characteristic and authentic cru site.

Intense ruby red Vino Nobile Riserva with a spicy bouquet of aromas of dried fruit, cinnamon, cloves and liquorice. Smooth on the palate with a variety of nuances, beautiful fullness, structure and intensity, supple tannins. Very elegant pleasure at an excellent price. SUPERIORE.DE

Castello Romitorio's 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is a classic expression of the 5-star vintage in Montalcino (consortium rating), showing plenty of ripe fruit, minerality, herbal nuances and varietal purity. This wine hits the sweet spot between elegance and power, which is not easy to achieve. It offers a wide range of Sangiovese flavours with wild cherry, forest floor, crushed clove and medicinal herbs, but it also shows a plump density and a velvety texture. Filippo Chia and his team have created a highly attractive Brunello for medium to long drinking. SUPERIORE.DE

From the legendary San Guido estate, the cradle of Sassicaia, comes Le Difese, a wine that combines the essence of two worlds: the international class of Cabernet Sauvignon with the Tuscan soul of Sangiovese. Named after the golden boar tusks on the label – a symbol of the wild Maremma –this blend, first created in 2002, embodies the accessible side of an icon. After gentle hand-picking and temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel tanks, Le Difese matures for twelve months in French and American barriques, followed by three months in the bottle.

An elegant, complex and supple Barbaresco. Shy in its youth, it develops its intense personality over the years.