VINOUS

Since summer 2023, Chianti Classico producers have been allowed to include the eleven additional geographical indications (UGA = unità geografiche aggiuntive) introduced in 2021 on the labels of the top Gran Selezione category. For Chianti Classico winegrowers, it is a logical step to produce wines that reflect the area in which they were produced as authentically as possible. And customers can thus deepen their knowledge of the relationship between the wines and their region of origin - a real added value.

Bright, deep ruby red colour. The purity and brilliance of this wine are wonderfully evident as soon as you put your nose in the glass: precise aromas of red fruits, liquorice and minerals are lifted by an intense violet top note. Sweet and sexy on the palate, it then becomes somewhat masculine and broad-shouldered in the middle, showing impressive volume and depth with flavours of dark red cherries, menthol and minerals. Full-bodied and refined with elegant and intense tannins that draw you deep into the wine. This wonderful Riserva from the top 2019 vintage is a well thought-out and finely crafted Brunello that definitely needs a little more time to show its true greatness. SUPERIORE.DE

Vittorio Frescobaldi and Robert Mondavi shake hands in 1993. Two worlds, one idea: to create a wine that combines the best of Montalcino – the structure and elegance of Sangiovese – with the rounded depth of Merlot. A combination that had never before been seen in this region. Luce became the first Super Tuscan made from a Sangiovese-Merlot blend from Montalcino. Thirty years later, the 2022 vintage is released as 30° Vendemmia – the thirtieth harvest of a wine that pioneered a new era. The estate is situated in the south-west of Montalcino, in the heart of the Val d'Orcia, which was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004. The estate covers 249 hectares, 88 of which are planted, at altitudes ranging from 280 to 418 metres, with a south to south-west aspect. The soil follows its own logic: slate and sandstone at higher altitudes, perfect for Sangiovese; clay layers deeper down, which give Merlot the power and suppleness it needs.

There are wines that are more than just wines – they are statements of intent. When Luigi Moio created his Grande Cuvée after twenty years of tireless work in the vineyards of Irpinia, he produced not only his flagship white wine, but a testament to his philosophy. This exceptional blend of 40% Greco di Tufo, 40% Fiano di Avellino and 20% Falanghina brings together Campania's three great indigenous grape varieties in a composition of rare harmony and complexity. The Greco comes from the finest plot of the Giallo d'Arles vineyard in Tufo, where marl-sand soils with a high clay content and valuable limestone deposits at an altitude of 400 metres create ideal conditions. The Fiano is selected from the finest plots of the Exultet vineyard in Lapio – here, at an altitude of 600 metres, porous layers of lapilli permeate the clay-rich subsoil, ensuring a constant water supply to the vines. Finally, the Falanghina thrives on the loose, clay-rich soils of the mid-slopes of Mirabella Eclano, where the west-facing aspect ensures optimal ripening conditions.

Riserva is not a marketing term – it is a legal obligation. A Brunello may only be called Riserva if it is marketed in the 6th year after the grape harvest at the earliest – at least two years in oak barrels and six months in the bottle. And it may only be produced if the vintage justifies it. So there is not a Riserva every year. It is only produced when the grapes demand it. And 2020 demanded it: a warm, dry year in Montalcino with concentrated ripeness, smaller berries and an intensity that gives fullness in the Annata-Brunello – and becomes something deeper in the Riserva. Altesino selected the best grapes from its four main parcels: Altesino, Macina, Pianezzine, Castelnuovo dell'Abate. 100% Sangiovese Grosso. Traditional fermentation, maturation in large oak barrels, then bottle ageing. Altesinos Riserva 2020 brings the power and concentration of the vintage.

One may wonder whether Luigi Moio is a professor wearing a winemaker's hat or a winemaker wearing a professor's hat. His vintage presentations are academic in tone, his tasting room is run with the rigour of a lecture theatre, and his vineyards are planted according to criteria that only a mathematician or scholar could fully understand. Quintodecimo's winemaking philosophy, on the other hand, is relatively simple. The best vineyard sites are selected for each individual wine. Soils, sites and microclimates are researched with great care. Nothing is taken for granted.

Rich, concentrated Bordeaux-style red with the unmistakable signature of top oenological consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt. Multi-layered black fruit on the nose, plus rock, liquorice, camphor and graphite. Impressively supple on the palate, the fruit is always juicy and centred, wonderful and almost perfect in structure, polish, elegance and length. SUPERIORE.DE

The loose, sandy soils of Cannubi always ensure a special concentration of flavour, and this is particularly evident in this classic vintage. A clean bouquet of small red berries, violets and dried rose petals. A fine mineral note, a pinch of salt and plenty of fruit and a clearly contoured tannin structure on the multi-layered palate. A beautifully straightforward wine, powerful and elegant. SUPERIORE.DE

At the turn of the millennium, Josko Gravner travelled to Georgia, the cradle of viticulture. What he saw there – clay amphorae buried in the ground, filled with grape must left to rest on the skins for months – turned everything he had previously known about wine on its head. Back in Oslavia, on the Slovenian border, he abandoned modern winemaking techniques and started from scratch. Since then, he has not referred to his wines as "orange wine" – a term he considers too trendy. He calls them "amber wines".

Deep, shiny red colour. A beguiling blend of dark cherries, plums, mocha, liquorice, leather and cloves on the nose. Very compact and powerful fruit on the palate, characterised by deep intensity, dense layers and a velvety texture. Very focussed, balanced and certainly needs a few more years to develop fully. Outstanding elegance and length. In short: an absolute beauty! SUPERIORE.DE

Dievoles Gran Selezione Vigna Sessina is dark, brooding and with wonderfully powerful cherry and blackberry flavours. Very defined and precise on the palate with an archetypal interpretation of the grape variety. Everything is in the right place here, the balance and clarity impresses with every sip. The finish has terrificlength and depth. This is Sangiovese in its purest form with infinite energy and expression. SUPERIORE.DE

There are places in this world that seem destined by a higher power to produce the extraordinary. The Oratorio di San Lorenzo is one such place – a small valley nestled in the rolling hills of the Colli Berici, where monks have lived in silent contemplation for centuries and where Stefano Inama has now completed his life's work. Here, in the shadow of a small 16th century chapel dedicated to St Laurence, only the very best vintages produce a wine that is more than any other: Oratorio di San Lorenzo – inama's red masterpiece and perhaps the purest expression of Carménère outside Chile. The story of this wine is one of vision and passion. When Stefano Inama decided to add red wines to his white empire in the late 1990s, chance led him to a sip from a nameless glass – that legendary moment of "love at first taste" that changed his life. The wine came from Carménère grapes, the almost forgotten Bordeaux variety that had been brought to the iron-rich red soils of the Colli Berici by French emigrants in the mid-19th century. Stefano immediately recognised the potential of this grape variety on this special terroir and acquired the twelve-hectare valley around the Oratorio in two tranches – an investment in the future that proved to be brilliant.

Bright ruby red with a light rim. Equally bright and very complex bouquet of wild berries, strawberries, dried fruits, tar and balsamic herbs. On the palate, a very attractive, supple texture, again a beautiful red berry fruit in the drink, plus traces of blackcurrant, blueberry and liquorice. In the long, squeaky clean finish, traces of well-integrated light wood and a very appealing silkiness. SUPERIORE.DE

In the quiet of 2019, Paolo De Marchi's decades-long vision of Cabernet Sauvignon as an authentic terroir expression of the Tuscan soul came to fruition. After more than forty years of tireless viticultural revolution, the maestro proved once again that international grape varieties do not become commonplace wines on the Galestro and Alberese soils of Isole e Olena, but express their new home in every drop. Only 10,000 0.75-litre bottles and 240 magnums were produced from the south-west-facing vineyards at altitudes between 350 and 400 metres. The 2019 benefits from an almost ideal vintage: mild winters, balanced rainfall in spring and a classically dry Tuscan summer produced grapes of exceptional concentration and elegance. 24 months in French barriques, forty per cent of them new, followed by three years of bottle ageing – this patience creates a wine of impressive complexity.

Mazzei's top wine Siepi is not only an outstanding Tuscan wine every year, but also a 6-hectare vineyard in the middle of dense oak forests with an ideal altitude and a unique climate. The sunshine is optimal throughout the day and a constant breeze from the west prevents excessive heat and creates a mild, Mediterranean climate. The oak forests also provide an ideal protective barrier against extreme weather conditions. Rocky soils of marl, limestone and clay from the Pliocene period ensure a special balance of elements in this geological complex.

The 2019 Brunello vintage from Altesino stands proudly among its peers. The bouquet has a pronounced floral character with delightful notes of pressed rose petals and dried violets. The fruit tones are elegant and harmonious, ranging from light red cherries to redcurrants. Firm and well-structured on the palate, the multi-layered fruit is accentuated by a refined fennel and liquorice note. Long and stately in the final, great! SUPERIORE.DE

Since the 2011 vintage, the Riserva Marchese Antinori has been produced entirely from grapes grown at Tenuta Tignanello. This has led to a reduction in production volume and a further leap in quality. A sparkling ruby colour; the bouquet reveals dark wild cherries, graphite, violets and spices. Smooth and round on the palate, yet very juicy; the French oak adds extra volume and body. SUPERIORE.DE

There are wines that define a region. Saffredi is one of them. When Elisabetta Geppetti, in 1987 – in her mid-twenties and driven by a vision to bring the sleepy Maremma to world fame – created this wine together with the legendary Giacomo Tachis, nobody could have imagined that a Super Tuscan was being born here, one that would rival Sassicaia and Tignanello. The name is a loving tribute to Fredi, Elisabetta's father-in-law Alfredo Gentili, who sparked her passion for wine and, in the 1980s, planted the five-hectare vineyard from which the grapes for Saffredi are still sourced today. The Saffredi single-vineyard plot near Pereta lies at an altitude of 250 metres, facing south-west for the old vines and south-east for the newer plantings. The soil is the result of millions of years of geological processes: of sandstone origin, rich in calcareous marl and iron minerals, poor in organic matter, with clay layers only appearing at a depth of 30 centimetres. On clear days, the view from here sweeps across the hills to the Mediterranean, 25 kilometres away – a proximity to the coast that lends the wine its distinctive freshness and vibrancy.

There are places in this world that seem destined by a higher power to produce the extraordinary. The Oratorio di San Lorenzo is one such place – a small valley nestled in the rolling hills of the Colli Berici, where monks have lived in silent contemplation for centuries and where Stefano Inama has now completed his life's work. Here, in the shadow of a small 16th century chapel dedicated to St Laurence, only the very best vintages produce a wine that is more than any other: Oratorio di San Lorenzo – inama's red masterpiece and perhaps the purest expression of Carménère outside Chile. The story of this wine is one of vision and passion. When Stefano Inama decided to add red wines to his white empire in the late 1990s, chance led him to a sip from a nameless glass – that legendary moment of "love at first taste" that changed his life. The wine came from Carménère grapes, the almost forgotten Bordeaux variety that had been brought to the iron-rich red soils of the Colli Berici by French emigrants in the mid-19th century. Stefano immediately recognised the potential of this grape variety on this special terroir and acquired the twelve-hectare valley around the Oratorio in two tranches – an investment in the future that proved to be brilliant.

Three generations bear this name: The grandfather, who always encouraged Giampaolo Motta in his wine dreams. The son who carries on the torch. And in between, this wine, the highest expression of a man who left the leather goods business of his Neapolitan family to create his Bordeaux in the Conca d'Oro of Panzano. The "Golden Basin" – cultivated since 1490, planted with Merlot and Cabernet for almost 400 years – became Motta's stage in 1992. He experimented with Chianti Classico for ten years, then the break: he left the Consorzio because the rules stood in the way of his vision. "I wasn't really happy with the result after ten years of work," he explained laconically. What followed was pure consistency – and, since 2008, a partnership with Stéphane Derenoncourt, perhaps the most influential consultant on the right bank of Bordeaux.

Romano Dal Forno started out in 1983 with a proposition that he has proven every vintage since: a Valpolicella can compete with the greatest wines in the world. He learnt this from Giuseppe Quintarelli. He internalised it in the Val d'Illasi, where his vines grow on alluvial gravel and clay, at up to 450 metres, with a planting density that makes every yield a rarity. Valpolicella Superiore does not begin fermentation – it begins with six weeks of appassimento. Corvina, Corvinone, Croatina, Oseleta and Rondinella dry slowly in the air of the lodoletta, losing water and gaining soul. Then: controlled fermentation in steel tanks, 36 months in new French and American oak barriques, years of ageing in the bottle.