"Tre Bicchieri" Gambero Rosso 2027

In 1956, Giuseppe Massolino inherited the first plots in Vigna Rionda from his aunt Matilde Ornato, a legacy that the family has held on to ever since. Eleven years later, he swapped an area twice as large, solely to acquire further land in this single vineyard – a move that revealed more faith than calculation. In 1982, the family bottled its own Riserva from this land for the first time, with the final acquisitions following in 1986 and 1990. Today, Massolino owns three of the ten or so hectares of Vigna Rionda, the largest single plot in this vineyard, which ranks among the most sought-after in the entire Barolo region. The vines are planted at an altitude of 300 metres, in calcareous-marly soils that lend the vineyard its distinctive minerality and depth, with vines up to fifty years old.

In 1944, Mario Incisa della Rocchetta planted the first Cabernet Sauvignon vines in the Maremma on a one-hectare plot at the highest point of his estate in Castiglioncello di Bolgheri. It was a private experiment, intended for family and friends. Until 1967, Sassicaia was enjoyed at the Incisas' dinner table. Then, in 1968, the first vintage was released onto the market – appearing in 1971 as a Vino da Tavola. The rest is history. And not just the history of the Tenuta, but the history of Italian wine as a whole. At a blind tasting in London in 1978 – featuring 33 Cabernet wines from around the world – the 1972 Sassicaia emerged victorious. And Luigi Veronelli was the first to recognise the greatness of this wine. In 1994, Bolgheri was granted DOC status for red wines. And in 2013, the Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC was established: the only Denominazione d'Origine in Italy that is exclusively and irrevocably reserved for a single estate.

At Fuligni, the Riserva is not a matter of course. It is produced only when a vintage deserves it – and when the estate's oldest vineyards have yielded something that is more than just Brunello. More than just good. 1972, 1976, 2002: vintages in which Fuligni simply did not release any Brunello at all because the quality wasn't up to standard. Such consistency is rare, for one must be able to afford it and be willing to do so. It is also the foundation upon which a Riserva acquires its very special significance. 2020 was no easy year. Warm, dry, early-ripening – a vintage that many producers dismissed as too opulent, too soft. Fuligni saw it differently. The north-east-facing vineyards in Cottimelli, at altitudes of between 380 and 450 metres, on Galestro soil – stony, cool, with natural acidity even in hot years – tempered the heat and preserved the freshness. What proved a challenge in flatter, warmer sites resulted here in concentrated, healthy grapes with depth and surprising elegance. The estate's oldest vines, over forty years old, with reduced yields and highly concentrated juice, provided the grapes for this selection.

The name is a tribute. Giodo – a combination of Giovanna and Donatello, his parents' names. Carlo Ferrini, one of Italy's most eminent Oenologist, has dedicated his life to Sangiovese – as a consultant to estates from Montalcino to Etna, and as the architect of some of Tuscany's most influential wines of the last three decades. It was never a question of 'if', but of 'when' he would eventually establish his own vineyard. In 2002, he found it: ten hectares in Sant'Angelo in Colle, south-west of Montalcino, seven of which were woodland and three set aside for vines. And the only grape grown here is Sangiovese – 15 carefully selected clones, planted with the patience of a man who knows that great wines are not made, but nurtured.

In 1997, Francesco Ricasoli planted the first vines on a 7.6-hectare plot near Gaiole as part of a project aimed at exploring Sangiovese and its diverse soils. Ten years later, in 2007, the first single-vineyard cru was bottled from these vines – the first of a total of three vineyards identified through the estate’s comprehensive soil mapping. The vines are situated at an altitude of 380 metres with a south-easterly aspect, on calcareous-clay Alberese soil – one of the most characteristic soils of Chianti Classico – which is stony and low in organic matter. A single-varietal Sangiovese, comprising three different clones, is grown here at a high density of 6,600 vines per hectare. After around two weeks of fermentation and maceration with daily punching down, the wine matures for 22 months inLiters, 30% of which are new, before being released following further bottle ageing.

In the summer of 1983, Elio Altare picked up a chainsaw and cut up his father's old Slavonian barrels. An act of rebellion, a break with tradition and the start of a revolution in Barolo. His father subsequently disinherited him, but Elio remained true to his path: Burgundian vinification, French barriques, shorter maceration and ageing periods. The Langhe traditionalists were appalled. But what of the wines? They sold out immediately. Today, Elio Altare is regarded as one of the "Barolo Boys", a pioneer of the modern Barolo style – and Arborina is his most famous flagship wine.

In 1967, Sergio Manetti, a Milanese industrialist and passionate art collector, bought an abandoned estate in the hills of Radda in Chianti. He knew little about wine. He knew a great deal about quality. And he decided early on that his wine would make no compromises – not even those demanded by the appellation. When the Chianti Classico DOCG stipulated that white grapes must be blended in, Manetti refused. From then on, his wine was known as Toscana IGT. Not for lack of pride in Chianti – but because he had too much of it. What grows at Montevertine are the three indigenous reds of Chianti: Sangiovese as the soul, Canaiolo for elegance, and Colorino for colour and structure. No additions, no international compromises. Martino Manetti, Sergio's son, runs the estate with the same conviction: "Simplicity, respect, care for every detail and savoir-faire" – this is how the estate itself describes its philosophy. Words that sound simple, yet are so difficult to put into practice.

In 1988, two worlds of wine came together in Serdiana. Mariano Murru, the estate's cellar master, collaborated with Giacomo Tachis, the Oenologistwho had helped shape Sassicaia, Tignanello, Solaia and Guado al Tasso, and was thus one of the most influential figures in the Italian wine renaissance. What emerged from this encounter was not an attempt to mould Sardinia in the Tuscan image, but quite the opposite: a wine made exclusively from indigenous Sardinian grape varieties, yet one capable of holding its own on the international stage. Antonio Argiolas, born in 1906 and who lived to be over a hundred, never tiring of taking on new challenges, shared this vision with his sons Franco and Giuseppe in the 1980s. Following the first harvest in 1988, Turriga took its time: it was not until 1991 that it was presented to connoisseurs. The journalist Benedetto Ferrara later wrote in La Repubblica that this wine had legitimised Sardinian red wine in the eyes of the world.

Tenuta Nuova. The name carries weight: when Giacomo Neri acquired the land around Le Cetine near the Abbazia di Sant'Antimo in southern Montalcino in the early 1990s, no one had ever planted Sangiovese there before. This was no oversight – it was a judgement that Giacomo Neri wanted to overturn. Not out of defiance, but out of conviction: that this terrain, this microclimate, these soils held the potential for a Brunello with a character all of its own. What followed was not a gut feeling, but a methodical approach. Systematic studies of the microclimates, the optimal exposures and the soils – clone selection, rootstock research, planting distances; everything was scrutinised, every decision made. The first result came in 1993. A few years later, the rest of the world was talking about it.

Ornellaia has always sought more. More depth in its red wine, more expression of the terroir, more precision in its selection. But at some point, the question arose: what if all this were translated into a white wine? A white wine from Bolgheri, that coastal region which taught the world that Tuscany is more than just Sangiovese? Ornellaia Bianco is the answer. "Italy's most ambitious white wine", according to the estate itself. Not a modest claim. Sauvignon Blanc, exclusively. Three small plots in Bellaria, north-facing – an unusual choice in a Mediterranean climate. The cool aspect protects the aromas, prolongs ripening and preserves the freshness that distinguishes a great white wine from a merely pleasant one. Sandy loam soils on limestone, 130 metres above sea level. 13 hectares of white wine in an estate that focuses on 80 hectares of red.

The year 1991 was the first. With the 2021 vintage, Poggio di Sotto is celebrating its thirtieth Brunello – an anniversary that the estate is marking with a special label in gold print, discreetly and without pomp, entirely in the style of the house. Thirty vintages that have proven that elegance is not a weakness. 2021 was not an easy year. Late frosts in spring decimated the harvest, summer brought heat, August finally brought rain – a sequence that could have been disastrous in other hands. Cellar master Leonardo Berti sees this as the special character of this vintage: fewer grapes, more concentration and an intensity gained through stress, which was kept in balance by the freshness of the long growing season. The soils – a mosaic of white and red clay, galestro and grey marl – did the rest. Spontaneous fermentation in wooden vats, maceration for at least 30 days, 42 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, unfiltered. The recipe is the same. The wine is not.

The red label rarely appears. Very rarely. In the entire history of the Giacosa estate, it has been awarded to Le Rocche in less than a dozen vintages – 2000, 2001, 2004, 2007, 2008, 2011, 2012, 2014, 2016, each time signalling that the family has jointly decided that this vintage is more than just good. That it can be timeless. 2020 is the latest chapter in this great story. What distinguishes the red label from the white label? Not the grape, not the vineyard, not the location. Le Rocche is Le Rocche – the same parcel on the upper Falletto amphitheatre in Serralunga d'Alba, south-west facing, chalky clay, vines almost 50 years old. What changes is the time. For the white label: 32 months in large French oak barrels, ten months in bottle. For the red label: identical vinification, but then the decisive difference – more than two years of bottle ageing. The result will not be released on the market until January 2026. A wine that has not yet reached its true class even six years after the harvest.

Ornellaia has always sought more. More depth in its red wine, more expression of the terroir, more precision in its selection. But at some point, the question arose: what if all this were translated into a white wine? A white wine from Bolgheri, that coastal region which taught the world that Tuscany is more than just Sangiovese? Ornellaia Bianco is the answer. "Italy's most ambitious white wine", according to the estate itself. Not a modest claim. Sauvignon Blanc, exclusively. Three small plots in Bellaria, north-facing – an unusual choice in a Mediterranean climate. The cool aspect protects the aromas, prolongs ripening and preserves the freshness that distinguishes a great white wine from a merely pleasant one. Sandy loam soils on limestone, 130 metres above sea level. 13 hectares of white wine in an estate that focuses on 80 hectares of red.

In 1944, Mario Incisa della Rocchetta planted the first Cabernet Sauvignon vines in the Maremma on a one-hectare plot at the highest point of the estate in Castiglioncello di Bolgheri. It was a private experiment intended for family and friends. Until 1967, Sassicaia was enjoyed at the Incisa family's dining table. Then, in 1968, the first vintage was released – in 1971 as "Vino da Tavola". The rest is history. And not just the history of the Tenuta, but the history of Italian wine as a whole. At a blind tasting in London in 1978 – in which 33 Cabernet wines from around the world were compared – the 1972 Sassicaia emerged as the winner. And Luigi Veronelli was the first to recognise the greatness of this wine. In 1994, Bolgheri was granted DOC status for red wines. And in 2013, the Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC was established: the only Denominazione d'Origine in Italy that is exclusively and irrevocably reserved for a single estate.

The red label rarely appears. Very rarely. In the entire history of the Giacosa estate, it has been awarded to Le Rocche in less than a dozen vintages – 2000, 2001, 2004, 2007, 2008, 2011, 2012, 2014, 2016, each time signalling that the family has jointly decided that this vintage is more than just good. That it can be timeless. 2020 is the latest chapter in this great story. What distinguishes the red label from the white label? Not the grape, not the vineyard, not the location. Le Rocche is Le Rocche – the same parcel on the upper Falletto amphitheatre in Serralunga d'Alba, south-west facing, chalky clay, vines almost 50 years old. What changes is the time. For the white label: 32 months in large French oak barrels, ten months in bottle. For the red label: identical vinification, but then the decisive difference – more than two years of bottle ageing. The result will not be released on the market until January 2026. A wine that has not yet reached its true class even six years after the harvest.

In 1944, Mario Incisa della Rocchetta planted the first Cabernet Sauvignon vines in the Maremma on a one-hectare plot at the highest point of the estate in Castiglioncello di Bolgheri. It was a private experiment intended for family and friends. Until 1967, Sassicaia was enjoyed at the Incisa family's dinner table. Then, in 1968, the first vintage was released – in 1971 as a "Vino da Tavola". The rest is history. And not just the history of the Tenuta, but the history of Italian wine as a whole. At a blind tasting in London in 1978 – in which 33 Cabernet wines from around the world were compared – the 1972 Sassicaia emerged as the winner. And Luigi Veronelli was the first to recognise the greatness of this wine. In 1994, Bolgheri was granted DOC status for red wines. And in 2013, the Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC was established: the only Denominazione d'Origine in Italy that is exclusively and irrevocably reserved for a single winery.

In 1944, Mario Incisa della Rocchetta planted the first Cabernet Sauvignon vines in the Maremma on a one-hectare plot at the highest point of the estate in Castiglioncello di Bolgheri. It was a private experiment intended for family and friends. Until 1967, Sassicaia was enjoyed at the Incisa family's dining table. Then, in 1968, the first vintage was released – in 1971 as "Vino da Tavola". The rest is history. And not just the history of the Tenuta, but the history of Italian wine as a whole. At a blind tasting in London in 1978 – in which 33 Cabernet wines from around the world were compared – the 1972 Sassicaia emerged as the winner. And Luigi Veronelli was the first to recognise the greatness of this wine. In 1994, Bolgheri was granted DOC status for red wines. And in 2013, the Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC was established: the only Denominazione d'Origine in Italy that is exclusively and irrevocably reserved for a single estate.

The red label rarely appears. Very rarely. In the entire history of the Giacosa estate, it has been awarded to Le Rocche in less than a dozen vintages – 2000, 2001, 2004, 2007, 2008, 2011, 2012, 2014, 2016, each time signalling that the family has jointly decided that this vintage is more than just good. That it can be timeless. 2020 is the latest chapter in this great story. What distinguishes the red label from the white label? Not the grape, not the vineyard, not the location. Le Rocche is Le Rocche – the same parcel on the upper Falletto amphitheatre in Serralunga d'Alba, south-west facing, chalky clay, vines almost 50 years old. What changes is the time. For the white label: 32 months in large French oak barrels, ten months in bottle. For the red label: identical vinification, but then the decisive difference – more than two years of bottle ageing. The result will not be released on the market until January 2026. A wine that has not yet reached its true class even six years after the harvest.

The red label rarely appears. Very rarely. In the entire history of the Giacosa estate, it has been awarded to Le Rocche in less than a dozen vintages – 2000, 2001, 2004, 2007, 2008, 2011, 2012, 2014, 2016, each time signalling that the family has jointly decided that this vintage is more than just good. That it can be timeless. 2020 is the latest chapter in this great story. What distinguishes the red label from the white label? Not the grape, not the vineyard, not the location. Le Rocche is Le Rocche – the same parcel on the upper Falletto amphitheatre in Serralunga d'Alba, south-west facing, chalky clay, vines almost 50 years old. What changes is the time. For the white label: 32 months in large French oak barrels, ten months in bottle. For the red label: identical vinification, but then the decisive difference – more than two years of bottle ageing. The result will not be released on the market until January 2026. A wine that has not yet reached its true class even six years after the harvest.