Organic

Whilst Santo Spirito unfolds its floral elegance at an airy altitude of 700 to 800 metres, Calderara Sottana is rooted in a completely different world. Just a few kilometres away, yet geologically distinct, this Contrada lies at an altitude of 620 to 670 metres, right next to the vineyard; and it is here that the extraordinary complexity of the Etna terroir reveals itself. In Calderara Sottana, Marc de Grazia discovered one of Sicily's rarest treasures: a pure, elliptical terroir, formed 60,000 years ago by volcanic eruptions. Of the hundreds of contrade on Mount Etna, only three possess this unique geological fingerprint, and Calderara is one of them. Whilst the Santo Spirito captivates with its crystalline minerality and maritime freshness, the Calderara Sottana is more opulent, creamier and warmer.

On the hill of Riparbella, which smells of the sea and the forest, one principle holds true: what is done by hand in the vineyard at the right time of year determines what can be created in the cellar. Luca D'Attoma's work in the vines sets the stage for everything that follows. The clay soils with their pronounced salinity, the limestone gravel, the sea breezes, the constant temperature range – the terroir of Duemani is characterised by a tranquillity that carries over into the glass. Altrovino follows the same approach as it always has: Merlot and Cabernet Franc fermented spontaneously, separately, in concrete, with 20 days' maceration. Part of the Cabernet Franc is aged in terracotta amphorae, which lend volume to the fruit and allow the floral notes to unfold. Then comes the blending, followed by eight months in oak vats. No fining, no filtration.

Montalcino is Brunello country. Anyone who has anything to do with wine knows that. This makes the decision that Conte Alberto Marone Cinzano made in the early 1980s all the more remarkable: he planted Cabernet Sauvignon in the hills above Sant'Angelo in Colle – in a region that has belonged to Sangiovese for centuries. Not an experiment, not a whim, but out of conviction: That the exceptional terroir of Montalcino can give this grape variety what it cannot find elsewhere. The vineyard bears the name of the Elm grove that accompanies it – olmaia. The denomination has changed over the decades: what once appeared under Sant'Antimo DOC is now labelled Toscana IGT. The wine has remained the same. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, organically grown on 140 hectares of the estate, on soils of galestro and clay, which give the Cabernet the concentrated minerality that has always characterised Col d'Orcia. The grapes ripen slowly, under the dry heat of summer, surrounded by maquis, olive trees and the silence of the hill.

Le Baròncole Riserva impresses with its juicy fruit and stone fruit flavours on the nose and continues this beautiful impression on the palate. Cherry, sour cherries, blackberry, very juicy and powerful in appearance, completely fills the palate, but always remains lively and elegant. Silky, fine-grained tannins and a long, balsamic finish whet the appetite for the next glass. Good substance. Good ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

On the classic bouquet, ripe cherry, tobacco and some damp earth. On the palate, first the pure Sangiovese feeling: beautiful small red berries, wild cherry, lively acidity. Then an impenetrable mesh of red and black fruits, which together with a fine web of tannins and minerals reveal more and more of themselves. Compressed and with each sip more open and present, the beautifully diversified taste components present themselves until they then lead into an aristocratically long and fresh finish with a hint of liquorice. SUPERIORE.DE

When we discovered this winery by chance at the beginning of the 2000s, we were immediately impressed by the modesty and purism of the Biliorsi winemaking family. This is still the case today, they remain true to themselves and their philosophy and in good years, they produce just 10,000 bottles of a "slightly different" Brunello in the cellar.

Monprà combines equal parts Barbera and Nebbiolo from vines in Monforte d'Alba, some of which are over 50 years old, at an altitude of 300-400 metres, from sites with clayey-limestone marl soils interspersed with sandy veins. Fermentation is temperature-controlled and takes place separately for each grape variety in stainless steel, while malolactic fermentation and 18 months of ageing take place separately in French oak. Only then are the batches blended – a precise, elegant blend that combines the fullness of Barbera with the noblesse of Nebbiolo.

The small 2-hectare Sant'Eusanio vineyard is located approximately 500 metres above sea level in the highest zone of the entire Valle-Reale area. What distinguishes this vineyard from the others in Popoli is its northern exposure and the temperature differences between day and night, which can reach the lowest temperatures in the valley. These factors lead to extreme microclimatic conditions under which the grapes of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Sant'Eusanio ripen, making it a unique wine. It is an uncompromising expression of Montepulciano from the mountains and speaks a dynamic language of acidity and freshness that contrasts sharply with the body and structure of the wines grown in the coastal zone of the region.

Maurizio Castelli does not like fancy names. That's why he took a simple but original approach to naming the estate and its top wine: 414 – which is the number of the vineyard in the region's land register. His Morellino has become a true Italian classic with a modern interpretation. The grapes come from biodynamically farmed hills around Scansano with deep-rooted Sangiovese. The 2023 vintage was characterised by warm, sunny weather and moderate ripeness, ideal for aromatic clarity and balance. Temperature control during maceration and a subsequent maturation phase of around 12 months in large wooden barrels characterise this wine.

Pliocene clays retain moisture. In a dry, hot year like 2020, this is not merely an agricultural detail, but a survival strategy. The clay soils of Poggio Landi, situated 300 to 500 metres above Torrenieri, provided a natural buffer against the summer drought that put large parts of Montalcino under strain that year. The organically farmed vines, with their deeper, more active root systems, played their part. The result is a Brunello full of concentration and character. Herbal and spicy notes on the nose – wild herbs, fennel and oregano – followed by sweet cherry and tamarind. Two weeks of spontaneous fermentation, 38 months in large French oak barrels, and 6 months in bottle.

Strong ruby red. Pinot Nero Case Via exudes a varietal bouquet of wild berries and pipe tobacco, which combines harmoniously with the barrel spice. The soft, characterful taste is based on the strength of the tannin and the excellent aroma structure of the Pinot Pinot Noir. SUPERIORE.DE

The Raggiolo – called Correggiolo in Tuscany – is one of the oldest and most widespread olive varieties in the region. A variety with character, it bears small, slightly asymmetrical fruit and ripens late, making harvest time a test of patience. Felsina's oldest trees have been standing since the 1960s, while the youngest were planted in the 1980s – all in the three groves of Fèlsina, Pagliarese and Boschi, which together form the estate's terroir mosaic. Like all Felsina monocultivar oils, the Correggiolo is harvested separately when the variety has reached its optimum ripeness. Within four hours, the olives are taken to the in-house mill, pitted and pressed from the pulp only (denocciolato) – at a constant 25 degrees. The oil is then stored under exclusion of air in stainless steel tanks and is only vacuum-bottled when ordered: it couldn't be fresher.

The Moraiolo is the soul of Chianti oil. A variety with compact growth and modest vigour, it produces roundish olives with a strikingly large stone – and therefore benefits particularly from pit removal. Because without the bitter stone, the pure flesh of the fruit comes into its own, and in the Moraiolo this is of remarkable complexity. Felsina's oldest trees have been standing since the 1960s. The variety ripens medium-early, earlier than the Correggiolo, and is harvested when the polyphenol content is at its peak. The olives reach the mill within four hours, are pitted (denocciolato) and pressed at 25 degrees. The oil is stored under nitrogen, vacuum bottled only when ordered.

The Pendolino is the "servant" among the olive varieties – and at the same time the indispensable one. It owes its name to its characteristically drooping branches, but its importance lies in its role as a pollinator: the flowers produce enormous quantities of pollen and thus enable the other varieties to bear fruit. In many groves, the Pendolino is a silent helper whose own oil is hardly ever bottled. At Felsina it is allowed to shine. The trees are in the Poderi Valli (planted in 1986) and Arcidosso (2005), cold-resistant and early-maturing. It is the first variety to be harvested, it is de-seeded (denocciolato) and pressed at 25 degrees.

If the Correggiolo epitomises the Tuscan elemental force, the Leccino is its elegant sister. A variety that is widespread throughout Italy – robust, cold-resistant, reliable in yield and early ripening. But at Felsina, where it has been growing in the groves of Fèlsina, Pagliarese and Boschi since the 1960s, it shows its finest face: an oil of medium intensity that emphasises balance over strength. The olives are harvested by hand earlier than the other varieties, when they are just beginning to ripen. They are pitted within four hours and pressed at 25 degrees centigrade – only the pulp, no stone (denocciolato). The oil rests under nitrogen in stainless steel and is only vacuum-packed when ordered.

Le Baròncole – the little manors. The name refers to the feudal division of this land in the Middle Ages, to landowners who were small enough to be forgotten, but large enough to leave their mark on the landscape. Today, Le Baròncole is the name of the finest Chianti Classico from San Giusto a Rentennano – a Riserva produced only in years when the terroir warrants it. The estate overlooks the upper Arbia Valley at an altitude of 270 metres. The soils are diverse – sand, clay, limestone and mineral-rich deposits – and characterised by a microclimate that experiences marked temperature fluctuations between day and night. In such locations, Sangiovese ripens differently to elsewhere: more slowly, with greater tension, and with a freshness not found in the Maremma or the lower Chianti region. 97% Sangiovese, 3% Canaiolo, hand-harvested in September when the Martini di Cigalas grapes are at their best. Aged for 16 to 20 months in large oak casks and French barriques, depending on the vintage, followed by a further six months' bottle ageing.

In the hills between Castagneto Carducci and the Tyrrhenian Sea, Grattamacco has achieved a remarkable feat: an elegant Vermentino that brings together terroir, grape variety and vinification methods with rare depth. The grapes come from organically farmed plots at a coastal altitude – consistently well-ventilated, yet characterised by intense sunshine and a significant day-night temperature difference. The combination of sea breezes and limestone soils produces a white wine of impressive substance.

The grapes for Istine's iconic Riserva come exclusively from the estate's own vineyards: Istine (Radda), Casanova dell'Aia (Radda) and Cavarchione (Gaiole). Only 4,000 bottles of this breathtaking wine, which is aged for 12 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, are bottled each year. A rich, luminous ruby red with a sparkling core. The bouquet displays its complexity with aristocratic restraint. A compact and fresh, fruity nose of ripe cherries and ripe raspberries, with Amarena cherries and hints of tobacco in the background. Medium-bodied on the palate, yet with infinite, captivating depth just waiting to be discovered. It then spreads beautifully across the palate, appearing almost juicy and fruit-driven, and continues to open up towards its terrific finalwith crisp cherries and a subtle hint of salt. Purists will love its linear and unmistakable Sangiovese character. SUPERIORE.DE

Whilst Santo Spirito unfolds its floral elegance at an airy altitude of 700 to 800 metres, Calderara Sottana is rooted in a completely different world. Just a few kilometres away, yet geologically distinct, this Contrada lies at an altitude of 620 to 670 metres directly adjacent to the vineyard – and it is here that the extraordinary complexity of the Etna terroir reveals itself. In Calderara Sottana, Marc de Grazia discovered one of Sicily's rarest treasures: a pure, elliptical terroir, formed 60,000 years ago by volcanic eruptions. Of the hundreds of contrade on Mount Etna, only three possess this unadulterated geological fingerprint, and Calderara is one of them. Whilst the Santo Spirito captivates with its crystalline minerality and maritime freshness, the Calderara Sottana is more opulent, creamier and warmer.

The single vineyard Bufaleffi is considered one of the most historic cru zones around Pachino, the historic heart of Nero d'Avola. The deep red soils with a high iron and lime content, the hot climate tempered by the sea air at night and the organic cultivation form the foundation of this single vineyard wine. The ungrafted vines are over fifty years old, the yield is low and the harvest is selective and manual. After the classic mash fermentation, the wine matures for over two years in used barriques and then for a long time in the bottle – this gives it density, structure and expression.

On the nose, ripe plum, baking spice, menthol and new leather. On the elegantly structured, delicious palate, notes of ground pepper and liquorice accentuate a core of juicy black cherry and crushed raspberry, supported by a backbone of taut, refined tannins. The fresh acidity keeps it beautifully balanced. Racy and seductive. SUPERIORE.DE

Vigneto Gallina is a parcel with iconic status and is located in the core area of the famous Barbaresco Gallina vineyard, north of Neive. Vines with an average age of around 55 years are rooted on south-facing slopes with calcareous marl and sandy inclusions – an expression of terroir, history and origin, carried in every drop.