James Suckling

Andrea Franchetti began in the 1990s to position Palazzi as an equal red alongside his flagship Tenuta di Trinoro, with the aim of producing two exceptional wines reminiscent of the left and right banks of Bordeaux.

The name is history. Sapaio – an old Tuscan grape variety, long forgotten, but not its memory. When Massimo Piccin founded his winery in 1999, he chose this name as a sign of his deep connection to the terroir. A tribute to what was and a promise of what was to come. The vineyards extend over the municipalities of Bibbona and Castagneto Carducci, 40 hectares on quaternary deposits, from loose, coarse-grained sand deposits to alluvial soils with calcareous subsoil. Just ten kilometres from the sea, a microclimate that brings Bordeaux varieties to life. Since 2015, Piccin has been going his own way: instead of the prestigious Bolgheri Superiore DOCG, he deliberately chooses the free IGT Toscana, just to be able to add the handful of grapes from Bibbona that make Sapaio what it is today. Sometimes greatness means renouncing titles and regulations.

The Biserno project began in 2001 with a hunch: Piero and Lodovico Antinori, their nephew Niccolò Marzichi Lenzi and Umberto Mannoni recognised the potential of the hills north of Bolgheri. For over twenty years, they worked meticulously on a plot-by-plot basis, defining three distinct estates – biserno, Campo di Sasso and Collemezzano – and gained an ever-deeper understanding of the region. Today, Niccolò Marzichi Lenzi runs the estate on his own. Colle Mezzano is his most personal wine.

Ugolaia is a name that carries weight in Montalcino. The vineyard is located in the classic Sesta area, exposed to the south-west, in one of the best-sunniest and best-ventilated areas of the entire estate – and it bears a tradition that is taken literally at Lisini: The "veterani" of the company, the most experienced employees who have known the estate for decades, personally graft scions from the company's own massalselection onto wild rootstocks. No clone selection from the catalogue, no technological shortcuts – but knowledge passed on from hand to hand, vintage after vintage.

Pelago is a tribute to the harmonious combination of classic Marche flavours with international influences. The cuvée of Montepulciano, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot brings together the best of the region in a finely structured red wine. The grapes are harvested by hand and placed in stainless steel tanks for controlled fermentation before the wine matures for 14 months in Liters barriques and then develops for a further twelve months in the bottle.

A story of renaissance in the truest sense of the word: after more than twenty years of silence, Le Caggiole recently shone in new splendour. What Federico Carletti describes as an "importante lavoro di recupero" is akin to oenological archaeology – the systematic rediscovery of a 14-hectare site that had once been forgotten. At an altitude of 350 metres, on the road from Montepulciano to Gracciano, intensive research revealed the true potential of this eastern slope: soils of marine origin, decidedly sandy, of a completely different geological character to the famous Asinone just one kilometre away. Through meticulous selection of Sangiovese rootstocks and clones, precise planting and a deep understanding of the soil and microclimate, this 100 per cent Prugnolo Gentile emerged from its decades-long hiatus.

"This is one of the 50 wines that have changed Italian wine culture." Gambero Rosso

Barolo Ginestra Ciabot Mentin DOCG 2019 comes from one of Monforte's most prestigious parcels with a south-south-easterly exposure at an altitude of around 400 metres. The old Nebbiolo vines are deeply rooted in calcareous marl with veins of clay and sand, which gives the wine intensity and finesse. The 2019 vintage is considered one of the most classic of the last decade: long, balanced vegetation, mild summer heat and cool September nights produced grapes of rare aromatic precision. After being harvested by hand, the grapes were carefully vinified and matured in French oak for around 30 months.

Verduno is a different side of Barolo. The northernmost municipality of the appellation lies on the Tanaro, in the immediate neighbourhood of the hills of Barbaresco – and the Monvigliero, the village's crowning amphitheatre, creates a mystery out of pleasure: Marne di Sant'Agata soils, 55% clay, 30% sand, 15% limestone, the slopes open to the south and south-west, 240 metres. A terroir with elements of Tortonian and Serravalian, which is geologically unique and produces Nebbiolo – and produces Nebbiolo that is more perfume than structure, more elegance than mass. Vietti adopts whole-cluster fermentation for this – a rare decision for Barolo, which gives Monvigliero the airy, herb-scented profile for which the vineyard is famous. The 44-year-old vines – dense, low-yielding, deeply rooted – were harvested at the end of September. Then three to four days of cold maceration, 20 days of maceration, malolactic fermentation in used barriques, 24 months in large wooden barrels.

Altesinos Montosoli displays the famous characteristics of this particular site, which are always characterised by a pronounced mineral intensity, with hints of crushed granite and lead pencil layers. The five-hectare vineyard has a higher concentration of Galestro clay-slate rock, and the altitude contributes to the freshness of the wine.

Some wineries tell their story on display boards. At Fuligni, it hangs on the walls. The palazzo in the centre of Montalcino dates back to the 17th century – the Medici resided here and a Spanish princess left a room that still bears her name today. Underneath, deeper than the palazzo itself, are the cellars: built at the end of the 16th century, with vaulted ceilings in tecnica mista, completely naturally insulated. This is where the Brunello matures in Slavonian oak barrels. It also matured here when Giovanni Maria Fuligni came to Montalcino at the beginning of the 20th century – and it matures here, just as his ancestors made wine in the Maremma before him, without interruption, without abbreviation.

Troy is no ordinary Chardonnay. Rather, it is the archetype of a Chardonnay, as Wolfgang Klotz, managing director of probably the most successful winegrowers' cooperative in South Tyrol, sees it. The grapes come from two selected vineyards in Söll, near Tramin. Not only does a Mediterranean climate prevail there, but also quite cold fall winds at night determine the vegetation. Both factors ensure optimal development of the plants and fruits. The berries are handpicked piece by piece and it is therefore clear to every wine connoisseur that this is an absolutely prestigious project of the cooperative. It is therefore not surprising that only 3,000 bottles of this vintage are sold in selected specialist shops and top restaurants.

Baroli from Serralunga d'Alba are often in a category of their own thanks to their richness and sheer abundance of fruit and simultaneous austerity. Initially restrained red fruit on the nose, dense and very concentrated on the palate. Lazzarito 2021 impresses with its powerful but ripe tannins, typical of Serralunga. This assertive and still very youthful wine is very long-lived and has an impressive drive on the impressively long finish. Let's give it the time it needs and it will delight us completely. SUPERIORE.DE

The fruit for this wine comes from a single vineyard that stretches over the crest of a hill. The name Schiena d'Asino (donkey ridge) is a reminder of this unique geography. The purity of the fruit is breathtaking and the wine emphasises the qualities that make Sangiovese one of the noblest of all Italian grapes. It offers a crystalline intensity with forthcoming flavours of bright cherries, balsamic herbs, aniseed, pressed violets and spice. This ensemble is balanced and nuanced. It shows amazing depth and complexity. SUPERIORE.DE

Rocche di Castiglione is prized for its pure white, chalky soils, which produce wines of exceptional finesse and a wide range of flavours. For lovers of timeless Nebbiolo, it is a real hit. The vines are located not far from the winery, which blends into the stone walls and urban fabric of the village of Castiglione Falletto. The vineyard is about one hectare in size. Rocche di Castiglione is a curiously shaped and elongated MGA with a unique south-east exposure along a steep ravine, with Bussia to the west and Perno to the east. This site is characterised by freshness, extreme precision, straightforwardness, structure and balanced freshness.

Siepi has always been more than just a vineyard – it was a vision waiting to be realised. Owned by the Mazzei family since 1435, this mystical place lies amidst dense oak forests near Castellina in Chianti, ten hectares of pure magic on Alberese soils that were already appreciated by the ancient Romans. Paradoxically, the story of Siepi 2023 begins with one of the most challenging vintages in recent history. A mild winter with sparse rainfall and a rainy spring that pushed the Mazzei winegrowers to their limits. And yet, or perhaps precisely because of this, a wine was produced that epitomises the company's philosophy in an impressive way: "Great vineyards shine in difficult vintages."

There are houses that ask themselves a single question. Not: What else can we do? But rather: How well can we do one thing? Galardi, at the foot of the extinct Roccamonfina volcano in northern Campania, has been producing exactly one wine since 1994. Just one. Year after year. The location is exceptional: south-west exposure at 500 metres, volcanic soil of silt, clay and rock, rich in mineral salts from two eras of volcanic activity – leucite lava and basalt, superimposed and weathered over hundreds of thousands of years. Chestnut woods, olive groves, underground springs that never dry up, even in dry years. The sea breezes from the Gulf of Gaeta provide natural climate control. 80% Aglianico, 20% Piedirosso – the legitimate natives of this region. Fermentation with skin contact for 20 days, pumping over twice daily, malolactic fermentation in steel, twelve months ageing in French barriques (40% new, 60% second and third passage), then a further twelve months in bottle.

Since its debut in 1988, Il Blu has been the result of constant striving for perfection. With ultra-fine tannins and a smooth and full finish, this full-bodied wine captivates with its complexity and elegance. Il Blu is made from only the best hand-picked and selected grapes from the two vineyards in the Chianti region. Although Sangiovese plays a leading role in the blend, its influence and signature contribute significantly to the overall identity of this special wine.

Pàtrimo is no ordinary southern Italian. Vinified purely from Merlot, this exceptional wine comes from ancient, ungrafted vines that Feudi di San Gregorio once discovered in the heights of Irpinia – a viticultural rarity and the foundation of one of Italy's most iconic red wines. Deep dark ruby colour with a violet rim in the glass. The bouquet shows Merlot in an unusual, Mediterranean way: Black cherry, ripe plum, liquorice and rosemary, underpinned by mocha, tobacco leaf, vanilla and graphite. Structured and opulent on the palate, but never overloaded: velvety tannins, extract-rich fruit, dark spice and a hint of balsamic freshness that balances the richness. The long ageing in new French barriques lends the wine noblesse without putting it in uniform.

Around 60% of the grapes for the Monvigliero are not destemmed, which enhances the aromatic nuances of the wine. The utterly enchanting 2021 Monvigliero is delicate and supple with aromas of cherries, boysenberries, violets and spices, with an excellent balance and a lingering aftertaste that reflects the main flavour themes. SUPERIORE.DE

Alfredo Currado made history in 1961. Together with Prunotto's Bussia, Vietti released the first single-vineyard Barolo of the modern era – rocche di Castiglione. Since then, this vineyard has been inextricably linked with the name Vietti. Rocche is located in Castiglione Falletto directly opposite the winery, on the most exposed ridge in the municipality: soils from both geological eras – tortonian and Serravalian – in rare stratification on top of each other, exposed to the south to south-west, 250 to 320 metres. A transitional location between the elegance of the western communes and the vigour of the Serralunga style. The result is a Barolo with an aristocratic bearing – superbly structured without ever boasting about it. Maceration for 20 days, malolactic fermentation in used barriques, 24 months in large wooden barrels. In 2022, Vietti harvested earlier than usual – the Rocche holds heat differently than the lower-lying vineyards and required different decisions.

Anyone looking for the truth in Sangiovese will find it here: Laura Brunelli's Montalcino has been a stunning wine full of vitality, life and energy for years. It displays an almost outrageous degree of clarity and openness. It unfolds brightly and radiantly with lasting purity, elegance and length. This Brunello shows extreme precision and focus, both on the nose and in the mouthfeel. Wild berries, blue flowers and liquorice come together in perfection, and it is impossible to surpass this quality at this price. SUPERIORE.DE

Galatrona is a pure Merlot in a class of its own. Black-red ruby in the glass. On the nose, black berries, fine wood spice and some leather. Very generous fruit aromas and extremely complex on the palate, it glides elegantly into the depths until it is caught by a finely woven tannin and passes into a long and finesse-rich finish. A wine that does not have to hide behind Masseto & Co., on the contrary, for us it has been Italy's Merlot benchmark for years. SUPERIORE.DE

Altesinos Montosoli displays the famous characteristics of this particular site, which are always characterised by a pronounced mineral intensity, with hints of crushed granite and lead pencil layers. The five-hectare vineyard has a higher concentration of Galestro clay-slate rock, and the altitude contributes to the freshness of the wine.