James Suckling | 95–100 Points

Historically, the vineyards of Castello di Fonterutoli are situated in the territories of three neighbouring municipalities within the Chianti Classico region: Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti. With the 2017 vintage, the Mazzei family vinified all three major vineyards separately as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione for the first time, in order to do justice to the diversity of the terroir: Castello di Fonterutoli, Vicoregio 36 and Badiòla.

In 1977, at a time when the term "terroir" was virtually unknown in Montalcino and little attention was paid to the concept of zoning, Caparzo produced the first vintage of this wine. Its name derives from the farm where the farm labourers who worked for the owners of the nearby Palazzo Montosoli once lived. With "La Casa", Caparzo was once again a pioneer: one of the first single-vineyard Brunellos in the entire appellation, from one of Montalcino's most privileged vineyards. And this wine marks a second milestone: Caparzo was among the first wineries to introduce barrique barrels to Montalcino, thereby creating a wine of a gentle, elegant character. The five-hectare vineyard is situated on Montosoli hill, 275 metres above sea level, with a south-southeast-facing aspect. Montosoli is not a large hill, but its slightly greater altitude protects it from both mist and late frosts – a decisive advantage in this northern sector of the appellation, which has cooler average temperatures than other areas. The soil is schist-clay, known locally as "galestro", and is well-drained; the site enjoys an exceptional amount of sunshine.

On the far north-western edge of the Etna DOC, where the cold reigns and time seems to stand still, lies San Lorenzo – one of the volcano's three holy grails. Here, at an altitude of 750 metres in the municipality of Randazzo, we encounter a geological wonder: a pure elliptical terroir, formed 60,000 years ago by the explosive activity of the Ellittico crater. Marc de Grazia recognised something extraordinary in San Lorenzo – a place of aristocratic purity. Of the hundreds of contrade on Mount Etna, only three possess this unadulterated elliptical heritage: Bocca d'Orzo, Calderara and San Lorenzo. Millennia of lava flows have buried all the older soils, leaving only tiny, precious fragments of these ancient volcanic sands.

Historically, the vineyards of Castello di Fonterutoli are situated in the territories of three neighbouring municipalities within the Chianti Classico region: Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo Berardenga and Radda in Chianti. With the 2017 vintage, the Mazzei family vinified all three major vineyards separately as Chianti Classico Gran Selezione for the first time, in order to reflect the diversity of the terroir: Castello di Fonterutoli, Vicoregio 36 and Badiòla.

Vinea Vecchia truly lives up to its name: the vineyard plot between Panzano and Montefioralle was planted in 1981, back in the days when Chianti was still produced using old, unselected Sangiovese clonal selections. With the 2020 vintage, it is being given its own label for the first time, as its character has become too distinctive to be part of any blend. At an altitude of 500 to 540 metres, Alberese rock alternates with schistose clay-marl – a soil that demands little yield from the old vines, but all the more concentration in return. Following spontaneous fermentation, the Sangiovese matures for 26 months in ten-hectolitre wooden casks, large enough to allow the fruit and terroir to express themselves fully. A total of 2,572 bottles and 46 magnums were produced, each numbered by hand.

In the heart of the northern Etna amphitheatre, where time seems to be carved in stone, lies Calderara Sottana, the realm of black stones. Here, at an altitude of 600 to 650 metres in the municipality of Randazzo, one of the volcano's geological mysteries is revealed: A terroir so rich in stones that, in the most characteristic areas, the soil disappears beneath them – fist-sized, light chunks of black pumice and basalt. The name Calderara evokes the warmth that the black stones absorb during the day and release back into the earth during the cold nights. Marc de Grazia recognised Calderara Sottana as one of the three sacred 'contrade' of the pure Ellittico heritage – that precious geological legacy resulting from the activity of the Ellittico crater between 60,000 and 15,000 years ago. Of all the crus in the Etna DOC, these are undoubtedly the stoniest soils, even stonier than the aristocratic San Lorenzo to the west. Here, ancient vines aged between 50 and 100 years take root in this mineral labyrinth of volcanic rock, where every plant fights for every centimetre of fertile soil.

Many people today forget what Petresco historically represents: Luca Orsini's response to the Super Tuscan craze of the 1990s. Whilst half of Panzano was ageing Cabernet and Merlot in new French Allier oak to please American critics, Orsini remained steadfast. He created a pure Sangiovese, deliberately classifying it as an IGT to free himself from rigid doctrines, and proved to the world that Panzano needs no Bordeaux-style crutches. In the exceptional 2021 vintage, this single-varietal Sangiovese achieves a stature that can, without hesitation, be ranked amongst the great Tuscan terroir monuments.

The grapes for this Supertuscan come from the San Giovanni vineyard near San Giovanni a Cerreto. In the church next to the vineyard there is a painting by Rutilo Manetti depicting St John the Baptist (San Giovanni). Deep ruby red, youthful, rich, dark fruit, berry and cassis flavours meld with French oak. On the palate with deep, subtle fruit flavours and an excellent balance of fruit and tannin, plus some smoke, liquorice and tar. A rich but not too heavy red with excellent structure and great ageing potential. SUPERIORE.DE

Guidalberto bears the name of a man who shaped the Bolgheri landscape forever in the early 19th century: Guidalberto della Gherardesca, the visionary agricultural pioneer who created the famous cypress avenue – the Viale dei Cipressi – was created. What was initially intended as a practical demarcation between different areas of cultivation became the iconic silhouette of an entire region. 2023 marks a turning point for this exceptional wine. For the first time, Tenuta San Guido is positioning its Guidalberto separately from the legendary Sassicaia – a deliberate move to demonstrate that this is not a "second wine", but an independent interpretation of the Bolgheri terroir. As Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta puts it: "You can't compare them. They are completely different worlds." The 2023 vintage is a synthesis of 55 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 45 per cent Merlot. While the Cabernet Sauvignon provides structure and depth, the Merlot brings the silky texture and accessible sweetness that makes Guidalberto so distinctive. Fifteen months in French and American barriques give the wine its characteristic balance between strength and elegance.

Rio Sordo stands alone. It is the southernmost vineyard of the Produttori del Barbaresco, a narrow strip stretching from north to south and bordering the municipality of Treiso to the west. The soils are light in colour, low in limestone and airy – quite unlike the clay-rich slopes to the north or the limestone-rich sites in the centre. And it is precisely this 'less' that leads to a 'more': silkiness. Tannins that never overwhelm, but rather accompany the wine. A surface that seduces before revealing its depth. The winemaking process is the same as for all Produttori del Barbaresco vineyards: 28 days' maceration, more than thirty months in Slavonian oak barrels, and a year in the bottle. First vinified as a single vineyard in 1978 – at a time when the world was just beginning to take Barbaresco seriously.

Coste di Rose, covering one and a half hectares, is the smallest of Vajra's single-vineyard plots, named after the wild roses that once lined the steep slope in Vergne. Situated at an altitude of 310 to 350 metres, this narrow plot lies on sandy, well-drained soil – significantly lighter than the heavier marl of the neighbouring Bricco delle Viole – and brings out the most fragrant and delicate qualities of the Nebbiolo grown here. The steep slope and small area allow only a limited, almost experimental production within the Vajra range. Produced as a single-varietal wine, it matures for around 36 months in large casks – a shorter period than most other crus in the cellar – a deliberate compromise in favour of freshness and aroma rather than power and tannic richness.

The MGA Le Coste is located in the heights of Monforte d'Alba, where the rows of vines nestle at 440 metres on south-east facing slopes – a site that Barolo connoisseurs appreciate for its vigour and unmistakable character. The whitish marl soils of this plot of just under one hectare give the Nebbiolo the mineral depth and structural rigour that make Monforte wines so unique. Orlando and Attilio Pecchenino vinify the grapes of this single-vineyard Barolo with the utmost respect for the terroir: temperature-controlled fermentation in steel tanks is followed by an extended maceration of 60 days using the historic method of the sunken cap, before the wine matures for a full 36 months in large oak barrels and cement vats after malolactic fermentation.

To the north, Pora borders a vertical rocky ridge that drops steeply down to the Tanaro – covered by a dense oak forest, renowned for its white truffles. This is no coincidence. The river is close by, and its influence is palpable: summer mornings are milder than elsewhere, the humidity is higher, and the soil is more fertile than in most other vineyards belonging to the Produttori del Barbaresco. What the vines produce is a Nebbiolo with a particular approachability – a gentle touch that does not deny the traditional craftsmanship. For the craftsmanship is uncompromising: 28 days' maceration, at least thirty months in large Slavonian oak barrels, and a year in the bottle. Domizio Cavazza was one of the first to include Pora 1894 on his vineyard map; the Produttori have been bottling it separately since 1967.

In 1978, the first bottle of Brunello from Casanova di Neri found its way onto the market – then still called "Vino Rosso dai Vigneti di Brunello", five years after the first harvest. Giovanni Neri had found his dream and his son Giacomo began to realise it. The white label was there from the very beginning – and still is today. The Brunello White Label comes from specially designated vineyards around Podere Fiesole to the east of Montalcino – the same vineyards from which the estate has been making its Brunello for over four decades. After a cool, slow spring, 2021 brought a balancing, dry summer and even ripening into September.

The name was finally established by the official MGA classification in 2007: Muncagota – the Piedmontese dialect term for what had been known as Moccagatta for decades. The wine, the winegrower and the soil remained the same. The vineyard is situated to the south-east of the village centre, thus facing the morning light, which reaches the grapes earlier than on the west-facing slopes. The soil is rich in limestone, the yield is modest – and the character it imparts to the Nebbiolo is unusual for a Barbaresco vineyard: floral, almost minty and herbaceous, with a freshness that holds its own even in warm vintages. The Produttori del Barbaresco have been vinifying Muncagota since 1967, using the same method as for all the cooperative's other vineyards: 28 days' maceration, thirty months or more in large Slavonian oak barrels, and a further year in the bottle. The same method is used for all wines; the differences stem solely from the terroir.

In the early decades of the 19th century, one man shaped the landscape of Bolgheri like no other: Guidalberto della Gherardesca, an ancestor of the Incisa family, who commissioned the construction of the area's first mills and churches, laid out fields and designed the Viale dei Cipressi – that famous avenue of cypress trees immortalised by Carducci and which still marks the entrance to Tenuta San Guido today. This wine is dedicated to the pioneer of this landscape. Nicolò Incisa della Rocchetta, who had long maintained that he wished to produce just one wine, recognised in the mid-1990s the potential of new plots along the Viale dei Cipressi, on clay-loam soils that proved particularly well-suited to Merlot. The first harvest was in 2000. Today: 58% Cabernet Sauvignon and 42% Merlot, from vines with an average age of 18 years. Hand-harvested, short maceration, indigenous yeasts, malolactic fermentation in stainless steel, followed by 12 months in French barriques, approx. 40% of which are new.

Andrea Franchetti discovered this tiny, terraced plot back in 2000 – a narrow strip of black sand, as fine as face powder, between 870 and 950 metres above sea level on the northern Etna slope. Here, on the highest Chardonnay vineyard in Italy, he recognised an exceptional habitat for this Burgundian grape variety. However, it was only after years of precise observation, micro-vinifications at various stages of maturation and the realisation that this site has a personality all of its own that the estate decided to bottle the wine separately as Contrada PC in 2018. 36 hours of maceration, fermentation in neutral 20-hectolitre barrels, then 17 months of ageing in large oak barrels – at least six months on the fine lees to enrich the wine and emphasise its potential. The naturally occurring malolactic fermentation in the barrel gives the wine a creamy fullness without disguising its mineral precision. Bottled unfiltered according to the cycles of the waning moon, followed by a further year of bottle ageing to reach its full potential.

The individual parcels (micro-locations) on Etna are called Contrade and the Contrada Passochianche (PC) is the Chardonnay cru from the magical hand of Andrea Franchetti. The visionary, who sadly passed away in 2021, planted high-density Chardonnay here at an altitude of around 900 metres back in 2000. The 2018 vintage marked the debut of a wine that impressively reflects Franchetti's many years of experience on Etna. Like all Contrade wines, it has its very own personality and demonstrates very clearly how a grape variety gains its very own form of expression in different locations. Just 2,660 bottles of this fresh, characterful and salty-mineral Chardonnay were filled. SUPERIORE.DE

With the Bòggina B, Petrolo revived an almost forgotten tradition in 2014: the great white wine of the Valdarno, as Tuscany had known it for centuries before red wine came to dominate the region. The wine takes its name from the Bòggina vineyard, where the first Trebbiano vines were planted in the 1970s; below this vineyard, the family has since replanted with the same original clones to secure the stock for decades to come. The 2024 vintage comes from certified organic cultivation, harvested by hand into crates and sorted on the sorting table. Spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts in tonneaux, it matures for over 15 months on the fine lees in specially selected French oak barrels, with bâtonnage that is constant at first and gradually tapers off – the wine remains unfiltered and undisturbed until bottling.

Katia and Luigi's Brunello di Montalcino opens with dark fruits, cherries, forest herbs and dried plums. This is accompanied by a fine fruity sweetness, framed by notes of tar, smoke and exotic spices. The dark and ripe intensity of the fruit is closely interwoven with the flavours of oak and the stately proportions of the wine. The long and well-structured finish is characterised by liquorice and mint, flanked by a layer of fine tannins. What we particularly like about this Brunello is that it is already full of finesse and class and is already showing its beauty at a young age. SUPERIORE.DE

Pianrosso: the red field. The name refers to iron-rich soils that give the Sangiovese a mineral depth that no winery in the world can replicate. 11.7 hectares on the south-eastern edge of Montalcino, at altitudes between 240 and 360 metres, where ancient marine deposits meet galestro schist. Giuseppe Bianchini had the vineyard replanted in the 1980s, knowing that the heart of the estate lay dormant here. Pianrosso is bottled only in exceptional vintages, following a rigorous selection of the finest grapes, and spends a whole year longer in Slavonian botti than the classic Brunello. Thirty-six months in large oak, followed by further ageing in the bottle. The result is not a wine for immediate enjoyment, but a testament to patience. In 2021, Montalcino produced one of those vintages you never forget: glorious September days, cool nights, perfect phenolic ripeness.

Castelnuovo dell'Abate lies in the south-easternmost corner of the Denominazione – further away from the cool northern slopes of Montalcino, and closer to Monte Amiata, the extinct volcano that moderates the climate of the area. When Gabriele Mastrojanni bought the Poderi Loreto and San Pio estates in 1975, there was hardly anyone here. The land was barren, the soils low in clay but rich in sandstone, tuff and pebbles. That was precisely the reason. Today, Andrea Machetti, as CEO, and Oenologist Maurizio Castelli continue to run the estate in the spirit of its founder – with a consistency that knows no compromise: no herbicides, no chemical interventions whatsoever since November 2022, fermentation in concrete tanks with wild yeasts, and extended ageing in large Allier oak barrels ranging from 16 to 54 hectolitres. The Brunello is crafted from a blend of different plots – varying exposures, altitudes between 180 and 420 metres, and vines of different ages – and derives its complexity from this.

Since summer 2023, Chianti Classico producers have been allowed to include the eleven additional geographical indications (UGA = unità geografiche aggiuntive) introduced in 2021 on the labels of the top Gran Selezione category. For Chianti Classico winegrowers, it is a logical step to produce wines that reflect the area in which they were produced as authentically as possible. And customers can thus deepen their knowledge of the relationship between the wines and their region of origin - a real added value.

Since summer 2023, Chianti Classico producers have been permitted to include the eleven additional geographical indications (UGA = unità geografiche aggiuntive) introduced in 2021 on the labels of the top-tier Gran Selezione category. For Chianti Classico winegrowers, this is a logical step towards producing wines that reflect the region in which they were made as authentically as possible. And it enables customers to deepen their understanding of the relationship between the wines and their region of origin – a real added value.