Falstaff

When Luciano and Luca Sandrone first laid eyes on the concave hillside of Valmaggiore in the 1990s, it was love at first sight. It was not just the history that captivated them – in the 19th century, the Nebbiolo grapes from this vineyard dictated the price for the entire region – but above all the unique combination of sandy soils and the microclimate of this natural amphitheatre. In Vezza d'Alba, on the left bank of the Tanaro in the Roero, lies this south-facing single vineyard with extremely steep slopes, where soft sandy soils lend the Nebbiolo that finesse and elegance for which the Roero region is famous.

Unmistakable interpretation of the Chianti Classico: sparkling ruby colour with a pronounced garnet hue. Very inviting aroma of cherries and delicate meadow herbs, with a nutty touch. Medium-bodied on the palate, again wonderfully juicy fruit, cool, mineral style, very finely structured and balanced, with lively animo, lingers quite long and makes you want the next glass. The perfect accompaniment to Italian dishes. SUPERIORE.DE

A Negroamaro with a grand gesture and deep expression: Gianfranco Fino's Jo comes from over 50-year-old Alberello vines, rooted in calcareous and clayey soils not far from the Ionian coast. The 2022 vintage was characterised by heat and drought, but the deep roots of the old vines ensured balance and ripeness. The meticulously selected grapes are fermented spontaneously and matured in French barriques – with the aim of achieving maximum origin and texture.

Serralunga d'Alba is not a place for compromises. The soil here – calcareous marl soils, millions of years old, compacted and rich in minerals – forms Barolos with a structure and depth that simply cannot be found elsewhere. The MGA Cerretta is located on the south-eastern slope of the municipal area, at an altitude of 350 to 365 metres, in the zone that winegrowers and critics have appreciated for generations for its extraordinary combination of power and finesse. The Rosso family has been cultivating these vineyards since the 1890s – first Giovanni, then his son Davide, who took over responsibility in 2001 at the age of 27 and since then has made a single sentence the guiding principle of his work: Wine should be a perfect reflection of its terroir.

Brunello di Montalcino has been produced at the Argiano estate since 1888. This means that this estate has been there from the very beginning, when this grape variety, this place and this name began to write one of Italy's greatest wine stories. More than a century in a single location, guided by a single conviction: "Il Brunello è l'anima di Argiano – elegance, finesse and identity." Sant'Angelo in Colle lies in south-western Montalcino, the warmest and most distinctly Mediterranean part of the appellation. The soils consist of marl, ancient clays and limestone in high concentration – compact and mineral-rich – a site that lends the Sangiovese a depth quite different from that of the soils to the north. Organic cultivation, limited yields, vines between 15 and 60 years old.

Solicchiata, northern slope of Mount Etna, 800 metres. The Faro family has dug deep into the volcano here since 2005 – literally, because the sandy soils of weathered lava rock allow roots to travel far. 100% Nerello Mascalese, Alberello, vines between 50 and 65 years old. Hand-picked, two weeks of maceration, three months in fine-grained oak barrels. Not a wood wine – a classic red volcanic wine.

Named after the man who turned his film-loving father's dream into one of Tuscany's most respected estates, this wine embodies the essence of a twenty-year project: the complete replanting of the Sangiovese vineyards at Le Macìe, with the aim of capturing the soul of the terroir in its purest form. Sourced from the exquisite "Le Terrazze" vineyard, where Miocene limestone-marl soils at altitudes of 265 to 360 metres provide the ideal conditions, this 100% Sangiovese yields a Gran Selezione of exceptional complexity. The hand-picked grapes undergo ten days of alcoholic fermentation, followed by 15 days of maceration, before the wine is aged for 18 months in French Tronçais barriques and a further 20 months in the bottle.

"The 2020 expresses itself through opulence, intensity, fruit and softness, but also manages to emphasise the depth and freshness, the floral notes, in an enveloping and elegant balance." Francesco Ripaccioli

Directly in front of the cantina, at an altitude of 450 metres and facing south-west, lies the vineyard that has defined Fontodi's claim to Sangiovese since 1985. Three plots, planted between 1963 and 1973, are united by a special geological feature: slaty Galestro soils that break up into characteristic platelets on the surface. Giovanni Manetti recognised early on that this soil structure gives the Sangiovese the dark fruit and volume on the mid-palate that distinguishes it from the limestone-dominated sites. The name "Sorbo" refers to a local Tuscan fruit – dry, tannic, almost like grapes themselves. What began as a Riserva in 1985 was elevated to Gran Selezione in the 2011 vintage, when the new classification was introduced in Chianti Classico. Since 2012, 100% Sangiovese, previously blended with small proportions of Cabernet Sauvignon.

Le Macioche takes its name from the root of the strawberry tree, the corbezzolo – known as "la macioca" in the local dialect. It is precisely this shrub that forms the woods surrounding the small, approximately six-hectare estate, three of which are classified as Brunello vineyards. For several years now, a new, simple logo has symbolised this deep-rooted connection: a macioca root burrowing into the ground – a symbol of the vine's strength and its connection to the land, conceived in a modern spirit yet firmly anchored in the tradition of Montalcino. The vines are situated at an altitude of 420 metres, facing south-southeast, on soil rich in galestra. They are trained using the Guyot system, with yields deliberately kept low through summer thinning, and fermentation carried out exclusively with indigenous yeasts. The alcoholic fermentation of the Brunello takes place in traditional wooden vats – a process that lends depth to the Sangiovese Grosso without over-aggressively manipulating it.

Venice, 1967: Charles de Gaulle and his wife Yvonne are guests at the Hotel Gritti, invited to the Biennale. A red wine is served at the state dinner, which the president considers to be a great Bordeaux – and publicly praises. When the sommelier reveals that it is a Venegazzù from Montello, just fifty kilometres away, the surprise is perfect. Conte Piero Loredan, descendant of the Venetian Doge Leonardo Loredan, then commissioned the artist Tono Zancanaro to design two labels: Dionysus with the dedication "des roses pour Madame" for the president's wife, the goddess of wine with "...et pour Monsieur la Bombe" for de Gaulle himself. The Capo di Stato was born – a wine for heads of state. To this day, bottles are sent to the Élysée Palace every time a new French president is elected.

Deep dark, impenetrable ruby colour with violet reflections. Opulent, warm bouquet of fully ripe cherries, plums, liquorice, young leather with a hint of French oak spice. Powerful and firm on the palate, with a brilliant structure and taut tannins. With increasing aeration, it reveals its good structure and refined elegance. This outstanding Merlot from central Tuscany never seems broad or too heavy until the long finish, but is completely convincing with its terrificenergy and complexity. SUPERIORE.DE

In the annals of Tuscan wine history, there are vineyards that bear witness to dynasties and eras, and the Vigna dell'Impero is one of these living monuments. In 1935, in that fateful year when Europe was on the eve of great upheavals, the Savoia royal family had a vineyard planted on their hunting reserve in Valdarno di Sopra, which is now one of the most venerable terroirs in Tuscany. Three hectares of terraced vineyards, planted by hand at an altitude of 300 metres, where the Sangiovese vines dig their roots deep into the stony, galestro-rich soil. Antonio Moretti Cuseri recognised the exceptional quality of this ancient site and decided in 2012 to create a limited edition from this historic cru. Only in the best vintages, in numbered bottles, as a tribute to 85 years of winegrowing history. The Sangiovese in Purezza undergoes a particularly gentle, one-month maceration to extract all the noble components of the grapes harvested at optimum phenolic ripeness. 24 months of ageing in large 15 and 25 hectolitre barrels, followed by months of bottle ageing without filtration – to preserve the purest terroir notes.

The world-famous Caiarossa is an extremely exciting blend of the Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Sangiovese, Syrah and Alicante varieties, with the rich, dark fruit flavours of the Cabernet grapes taking centre stage. On the nose, a beautiful first wave of dark fruits that never appear too ripe, which greatly benefits the elegance of the wine. The palate is very balanced and focussed with blackberries, cassis and slight hints of salty or rusty minerals. Caiarossa displays a good degree of elegance, not least due to its fine and taut tannins, and despite its density and complexity never comes across as opulent or even overloaded. SUPERIORE.DE

Since the 2016 vintage, Livio Felluga's top wine Sossò has been maturing in the bottle for an extra year before being released for sale. This Riserva is a beautifully rich and comforting red wine that is dense on the palate, imparting pretty cherry and dark fruit flavours with plenty of spice and tobacco. The extremely articulate flavour shoulders a convincing tannin portion and yet steers into an intensely fruity final with terrificlength. The wine simply glides forward with its unique feel and a dynamism that is slow and long-lasting. SUPERIORE.DE

Castelnuovo dell'Abate has a character all of its own – rougher, denser and more mineral-driven than many other parts of the appellation. The loamy-sandy soils with their high proportion of stone, the vineyards situated between 150 and 350 metres, the shelter provided by Monte Amiata, and the cool nights from the Orcia Valley: anyone who plants vines here will produce Sangiovese with real character. Andrea Cortonesi has been planting vines here for almost four decades. 2021 proved a challenging year for this terroir – and for the winemaker. The late frost in April hit lower-lying plots hard, and the harvest was around 15% smaller overall than the previous year. A hot, dry summer followed, before two spells of rain in the second half of August provided the vineyards with water and gave the grapes their final aromatic depth. The long September nights did the rest: phenolic ripeness, without any signs of heat stress, and without compromising on freshness. What Uccelliera subsequently brought into the cellar was concentrated, healthy, clear – and possessed that crisp fruit intensity that makes Castelnuovo wines so distinctive.

The name Tresette is derived from the fact that only 2,800 bottles of this single-varietal Merlot are produced each year and it is aged in three Liters French oak barrels. The grapes come from old vines on a plot 480 metres above sea level, and it is only vinified in the best years. Tresette is a cool, archetypal Merlot that is very elegant and unique in Tuscany and is entirely in keeping with the house style. Juicy blackberry flavours, clove, herbs and spices on the nose. Enveloped by supple tannins, this fresh red leads into a delicious finish. SUPERIORE.DE

The Greeks knew two types of time. Chronos: the measurable, constant, inexorable one. And kairós: the right moment – the moment that cannot be forced, but must be recognised. Celestino Gaspari has dedicated his wine to this concept – and chose the name carefully: Kairós is created in those years when Gaspari decides that the moment is not ripe for his great Harlequin. No second choice – another decision.

Livio Felluga has three wines that bear witness to the estate – wines that are not only among the best in his portfolio, but also part of Friuli’s history: Terre Alte, Picolit and the Sossò. The word comes from the Friulian language and refers to the slow, deliberate sipping – the opposite of drinking. A hint as to how this wine is intended to be enjoyed. Sossò brings together three characters from old vines in Rosazzo: Merlot provides the fullness and the smooth integration. Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso – — named after its red stalk, documented in writing in Friuli as early as 1390, then the favourite drink of Livia, wife of Augustus – brings darkness, tannin and the wild side of this landscape. And Pignolo, the ‘pine cone’ – one of Italy’s rarest grape varieties, saved from extinction in the 1970s, with compact, pine-cone-shaped grapes and a naturally high tannin content – lends a complexity and longevity that no other vine in this region can match. Matured in small French oak barrels. Then bottle ageing in climate-controlled rooms.

Since 1995, Le Cupole has been the accessible gateway to the world of the legendary Tenuta di Trinoro, yet at this visionary winery, "accessible" never means compromise. In the Val d'Orcia, where southern Tuscany reveals its wild and unspoilt side, near Sarteano on the border with Umbria and Lazio, the eccentric scion of the Cinzano empire and nephew of the American painter Cy Twombly created a wine paradise at an altitude of 500 to 700 metres, which was initially considered madness. Le Cupole is made from the same Bordeaux blend as the great Tenuta di Trinoro – Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot – but comes from younger vines on deeper, less extreme soils. The proportions vary depending on the vintage in order to best reflect the characteristics of the harvest.

A journey through time on five hectares: Giovanni Manetti is a man who knows how to unravel historical secrets. When he discovered drawings from the 15th century in the archives of the University of Florence that showed that the hill of San Leolino was once completely planted with vines, this was the key to an extraordinary revitalisation project. Where for centuries there had only been olive trees – with the exception of a small plot from the 1970s –the Terrazze di San Leolino were created anew. The terroir tells a different story to the famous Vigna del Sorbo: here, at an altitude of 450 metres, it is not the slatey Galestro that dominates, but the calcareous Alberese soil. This geological peculiarity gives San Leolino its unmistakable character – mineral, salty, with a freshness that immediately reminds the nose of crushed stones and earthy notes.

The "25 Anni" from Caprai has been THE ambassador for Umbria's top wines for many years. It captivates with a beguiling bouquet that combines black fruits with citrus fruits, exotic spices, a hint of oregano, menthol and a hint of cocoa. The texture is more like pure silk, delicately lapping the palate, leaving a satisfying mix of intense dark fruits, minerals and fine-grained tannin. There is so much depth and concentration to work with that even when it finishes youthfully structured and dry, it lingers for well over a minute with notes of redcurrant, sage and dark chocolate. This exceptional Sagrantino is undisputedly not only Caprai's top wine, but also one of Italy's most characterful wines, which, with a little more ageing, will give incredible pleasure and should therefore definitely be aerated for 3-4 hours when young. SUPERIORE.DE

The world-famous Caiarossa is an extremely exciting blend of the Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Sangiovese and Grenache varieties, with the rich, dark fruit flavours of the Cabernet grapes taking centre stage. On the nose, a beautiful first wave of dark fruits that never appear too ripe, which greatly benefits the elegance of the wine. The palate is very balanced and focussed with blackberries, cassis and slight hints of salty or rusty minerals. Caiarossa displays a good degree of elegance, not least due to its fine and taut tannins, and despite its density and complexity never comes across as opulent or even overloaded. SUPERIORE.DE

Capitel Monte Olmi 2018 takes things to another level. It coats the glass with a deep purple glow and exudes a dark and seductive bouquet of redcurrants, sultanas, black liquorice and a hint of spiced citrus. The brooding, velvety texture is complemented by juicy acids and tart red fruits that drench everything they touch, leaving a complex layer of savoury spices, minerals and fine tannins. This wine is structured, long and full of character, but with a balance that will carry it for many years in the cellar. SUPERIORE.DE