cult wines

There are wines that speak of a place, and there are wines that speak of a decision. The PS Riserva is both. In the early 1970s, Siro Pacenti planted a small plot of one and a half hectares in the northern part of his Pelagrilli slope – on sandy loam, at 350 metres, within sight of Siena. These vines are still standing today. Only in the most exceptional vintages do they produce the PS – the estate's only single-vineyard wine, in a strictly limited edition, unfiltered and produced over time. The bottling process follows the same principle as all of Giancarlo's wines: fermentation in tempered steel, double manual selection before and after destemming, 24 months in customised French barriques. No intervention that is not necessary. No adjustment that is not justified.

There are stories that take time. This Amarone rested for ten years in a single 30-hectolitre Slavonian oak barrel – a decade of patient ageing, of slow metamorphosis, of quiet perfection. Only 2,500 numbered bottles and 200 magnums were bottled from the 2013 vintage, each in its own wooden crate, a monument to the philosophy that Carla Prospero Zenato formulates as follows: "Ci sono storie che richiedono il loro tempo" – there are stories that demand their time.

There are wines that mark epochs. Gaia & Rey is undoubtedly one of them. When Angelo Gaja bottled the first bottle of this Chardonnay in 1983, it caused an outcry in Italy – and a revolution. The first Chardonnay in Piedmont, the first Italian white wine to undergo malolactic fermentation and ageing in French barriques. In a region that had exclusively produced red Nebbiolo wines for centuries, Gaja planted Chardonnay in a prime location in 1972 after a formative trip to the USA. What sounded like heresy became a legend. The name carries two generations: Gaia, Angelo's eldest daughter, and Clotilde Rey, his grandmother – the visionary matriarch who once led the winery into new dimensions. The vineyards are located in Treiso at an altitude of 460 metres, planted in 1979, supplemented by grapes from Serralunga d'Alba. Together they cover 3.6 hectares and are among the most exceptional Chardonnay vineyards in Europe. The soils are poor in potassium and nitrogen, the high planting density of 5,500 vines per hectare, drastically reduced yields to 30 hectolitres – everything is geared towards concentration.

It is by no means a given that we will once again be able to offer you a few bottles of the rare 18th edition of Ornellaia's "Vendemmia d'Artista" 2023 in 0.75-litre bottles this year. As usual, this special edition is rare and highly sought-after, as each wooden case of six contains just one bottle of this limited-edition collector's item.

It was the wine journalist Francesco Arrigoni who wrested a promise from Franz Haas. He had seen the beauty of these high-altitude vineyards, surrounded by meadows and woods in the municipality of Aldein, where only wild game roams, and recognised the quality that grew from this one plot: the Pònkler. Arrigoni's request was that it should be bottled separately. A promise the estate kept – even though, at first, it was impossible to know how the wine from the grapes of such a young vineyard would develop.

Powerful, very attractive wine. Smells of strawberry and cherry, spices and a hint of leather. Tastes juicy, very special and impresses with firm tannin and persistent length. SUPERIORE.DE

Duemani has just 7,000 Syrah vines – the estate's smallest plot, yet perhaps the most precious. Suisassi, this enigmatic name, which evokes the sound of the nearby surf, embodies Elena's very own vision: to create a Syrah that imitates neither the Rhône nor South Australia, but captures the Tuscan coast in all its wild beauty. Luca D'Attoma, who helped create Le Macchiole's legendary Scrio as a consultant, applies the same philosophy here: 30% of the grapes are fermented as whole bunches to enhance the aromatic complexity, spontaneous yeast fermentation in conical oak vats and small 1,Liters preserves the fruit's vibrancy, before the wine is left to rest for 20 months in French barriques.

For us, the pure Cabernet Franc from Duemani is one of the best representatives of the grape variety and the western Tuscan coastal region. The bouquet has an extraordinary clarity of dark plum, coffee and wild roses. Rich and with a perfectly integrated woody note on the palate, its strength, structure and elegance are particularly fascinating. SUPERIORE.DE

Suisassi is rich and expressive. The bouquet convinces with aromas of sage, rosemary, wild flowers, liquorice, violets and plums. Very full and round on the palate with memories of berries, chocolate and nuts. Elegant and intellectual, still needs time. SUPERIORE.DE

When the world-famous Oenologist Carlo Ferrini makes his own wine, you can't help but be excited. Here, he has succeeded in creating an interpretation of Sangiovese that brings all his experience from decades of working with this grape variety to the fore as if through a burning glass. The moderate use of wood through ageing in 700-litre tonneaux expresses the clarity and personality of the grape and the unique terroir (there are just 1.5 hectares of the best Brunello sites) in an archetypal way. A great harmony of dark cherries, black fruits, spices, leather and tobacco, ideally integrated tannins and great persistence will quickly make the few thousand bottles a sought-after collector's item. SUPERIORE.DE

Gambero Rosso named the Giodo Brunello 2020 "The best red wine in Italy in 2026", and the reasoning reads like a silent tribute: "The sum of his experience with Sangiovese, his first love." His daughter Bianca Ferrini added what is behind the wine: "It is the first vintage in the new cellar, the first chapter together with my father."

This is not a wine – this is a legend. Giuseppe "Bepi" Quintarelli, the "Maestro del Veneto", is considered the father of Amarone, the man who redefined an entire appellation over six decades and inspired generations of winemakers. His Amarone is only produced in exceptional years; in normal vintages, the "Rosso del Bepi" is produced, in weak years nothing at all. The 2018 marks one of these rare moments. The cuvée of 55% Corvina and Corvinone, 30% Rondinella and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo, Croatina and Sangiovese follows a ritual that extends over many years: half of the grapes are processed fresh, while the other half dries for five months in ventilated chambers until the end of January, losing up to 30% of its water content and concentrating sugar, flavours and structure. Botrytis – noble rot – is deliberately encouraged, a risky endeavour that only masters can master. Pressing is followed by 20 days of maceration, then 45 days of slow fermentation with wild yeasts. What follows is a patience that seems almost forgotten today: seven years of ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels.

Tasting the different lots of Il Marroneto from the barrel is a fascinating task. The vines are all similarly situated at high altitude, on coarse sand of marine origin, and predominantly north-facing. While they have subtle differences, the distinct character of Madonna delle Grazie often merits a separate bottling - as the 2018 proves. The aromas take on the darkest, most heady purple florals, tangled in allspice and smoky incense. The wine is muscular with firm tannins that grip it tightly and don't let go, though it is never beefy, heavy or angular. At the moment it is still developing, but the finish already reveals a refined balsamic core and a spicy, salted plum. SUPERIORE.DE

The name says it all: wines of the slopes. Vigneti del Versante is made from grapes from the Cancello Rosso parcel and the lower part of Pian Bassolino – sites, which lie at an altitude of 350 metres and have a soil of exceptional geological diversity. Calcareous clay, slightly decomposed marl, sandstone, flysch – layers from the Cretaceous and Tertiary periods, interspersed with volcanic influences from nearby Monte Amiata. In the Cancello Rosso vineyard, an increased proportion of sand in the topsoil provides the typical spicy and nutty flavours of the berries; Pian Bassolino contributes with a calcareous density. Jan Erbach sees the Vigneti del Versante as the search for a harmony that is more than the sum of its parts – like the different voices of an orchestra that only find their sound together. Spontaneous fermentation, strict selection of grapes on the table, no technological additives, maturation in large oak barrels without filtration.

Barolo Prapò comes from Serralunga d'Alba and is, as expected, the most powerful and structured of the various single-vineyard wines from this ambitious estate. At the same time, it is also the most closed at the beginning and, with its introverted nature, is made for a long ageing period. This site is one of the last where the grapes ripen, giving them plenty of time to develop slowly and carefully each year.

Sibi et paucis – for the few who understand that great wines are not in a hurry. Sandrone retains around 10 per cent of the production from each Aleste vintage and allows these bottles to mature for a full decade longer in his own cellar. What could have been released in September 2019 remains dormant until today – and is becoming something that goes beyond regular Barolo.

A few years after the release of his globally acclaimed Cuvée Luigi Moio, the quiet leader in quality from the up-and-coming wine region of Campania has followed up with a red counterpart to his white wine, setting the standard for the entire region. Luigi observes: "A great wine is a project that must first take shape in the mind and then gradually become a reality through knowledge, creativity, care and patience."  SUPERIORE.DE

Ten years. Appius celebrates its first decade with the 2020 – and what a decade it has been. When Hans Terzer first bottled his dream wine in 2010, he had already been harbouring the idea for a long time. During his vineyard inspections, he had noticed that certain low-yielding old vines in the historic vineyards of Eppan produced a quality that demanded its own framework. Something beyond the celebrated Sanct Valentin line. Originally, the wine was to be called "Oans" – piedmontese for "one" –but the name was taken. So it became Appius: the Roman name for Eppan, derived from Appianum, the "estate of Appius".

Anyone entering the Quintodecimo vineyard sees it immediately: a circular plot laid out in sixteen spiral rows of vines, which follow the golden spirals of the Fibonacci sequence exactly. This is no coincidence, nor a mere gimmick – it is a plan that has been maturing for twenty years and was already firmly established in 2001, the year the estate was founded. Chiara Moio, Oenologist and head of communications, describes it as follows: "With great patience, we have spent all these years completing this vast vineyard from which this wine is produced – a project that has guided us down to the very last detail." The roots of this vision stretch further back: in 2001, Pietro Pellegrini, president of the Pellegrini winery and a talent scout on the Italian wine scene, met Luigi Moio. Moio and his wife had previously spent formative years in Burgundy between 1990 and 1994 – an experience that guided them upon their return to Irpinia. What emerged from this was an attempt to combine the legacy of Moio's father, Michele – who had once revived Falerno – with a new vision for Aglianico, Fiano and Falanghina.

Nibbio is a truly outstanding Chardonnay, hand-picked from a vineyard of just over one hectare on Monte Nibbio in Umbria, which is situated at a lofty height of 520 metres above sea level and belongs to the Castello della Sala estate. The site has cool north-eastern exposures and dense forests at lower altitudes that insulate the temperature. It is the second vintage of the latest passion project of Piero Antinori and his famous OenologistRenzo Cotarella. Nibbio combines Antinori's winemaking traditions with the unique characteristics of the terroir and follows on seamlessly from the path taken 35 years ago with Cervaro della Sala.

The single-varietal Duemani is for us one of the best representatives of the West Tuscan coastal region. The bouquet of exceptional clarity of dark plum, coffee and wild roses. Rich and with perfectly integrated wood notes on the palate, its structure and elegance are particularly fascinating. SUPERIORE.DE

High above the Umbrian hills, where the shadows of Monte Nibbio cast their shadow over the ancient walls of the Castello della Sala, a bird of prey circles over a dream that has been decades in the making. Nibbio – the red kite – gave this mountain its name, and today the most ambitious white wine in the entire Antinori empire bears the same name as the majestic bird of prey that has watched over this spectacular landscape for centuries. It is the story of a man and his vision: Renzo Cotarella, winemaker and CEO of Antinori, was born here in Umbria and for decades cherished a dream that bordered on obsession. While the world celebrated Antinori's Tuscan red wine legends, Renzo saw something else – a terroir on Monte Nibbio that could produce the best white wine in Italy. A bold claim for a region that stands in the shadow of famous Tuscany, but Renzo had to prove it. Not only to himself, but also to Piero Antinori, who remained sceptical for years until he finally capitulated and even gave Nibbio his personal signature as the only wine of the entire Antinori dynasty.

Nibbio is a truly outstanding Chardonnay, hand-picked from a vineyard of just over one hectare on Monte Nibbio in Umbria, which is situated at a lofty height of 520 metres above sea level and belongs to the Castello della Sala estate. The site has cool north-eastern exposures and dense forests at lower altitudes that insulate the temperature. It is the second vintage of the latest passion project of Piero Antinori and his famous OenologistRenzo Cotarella. Nibbio combines Antinori's winemaking traditions with the unique characteristics of the terroir and follows on seamlessly from the path taken 35 years ago with Cervaro della Sala.