Chardonnay

If Pecchenino is traditionally known for its great Dolcetto and Barolo, the Maestro reveals another facet of this family winery: the ability to give Chardonnay at 700 metres above sea level in the Alta Langa a form of expression that combines freshness with elegance. Since 1994, this wine has been produced from the vineyards around Bossolasco, where the Piedmontese hills rise up towards the Ligurian Apennines. Here, on medium-heavy soils with a high proportion of limestone and clay, the Chardonnay benefits from a south-easterly exposure and the cool climate that ensures pronounced acidity and aromatic intensity. After the harvest at the beginning of September, the chilled grapes are gently pressed, the must is naturally decanted and fermented in stainless steel tanks. Maturation takes place partly on the fine lees in steel and partly in barriques.

Pale straw yellow with a delicate greenish tinge. Clear and inviting on the nose: green apple, pineapple and citrus, underpinned by white flowers and a fine hint of fresh bread crust. Dry, straightforward and juicy on the palate, with lively, well-integrated acidity, a delicate mellowness and cool, mineral tension. The finish is fresh and lingering, with an elegant, slightly salty flavour. A modern, no-frills Langhe Chardonnay that impresses with its clarity, drinking flow and fine depth. SUPERIORE.DE

Prinsipi from the small vineyard parcel of the same name was once developed by son Fabio as a 100 per cent Chardonnay and "little brother" of Bastia, but now 10 per cent Manzoni Bianco is added, which gives it more freshness and lightness. What also distinguishes it from the famous Chardonnay is the ageing in stainless steel. A fresh, crisp and very drinkable white wine that cuts a fine figure not only on its own and is now a firm favourite in the (now also organic) range. SUPERIORE.DE

In the gently undulating hills of Contessa Entellina in western Sicily, where Mediterranean winds meet calcareous clay soils, a Chardonnay with an unmistakable island character is produced year after year: La Fuga. The vines grow at medium altitudes between 200 and 600 metres above sea level, benefit from strong temperature differences between day and night and develop an expressive spectrum of aromas – far removed from the opulent style of many international representatives of the variety.

The evening fall winds of the Mendel Mountains characterise the entire terroir of the St. Michael-Eppan winery. They ensure cool nights and give the grapes those extraordinary characteristics that characterise the aromas, unmistakable freshness and longevity of the wines. The fall wind is the natural force that blows over the vineyard every day, positively influencing the climate and supporting the valuable work of the cooperative winery's winegrowers. The Fallwind wines are ambassadors of their terroir and reflect the strengths of the growing region in a unique way. In most cases, these are selected sites that have been used for viticulture for centuries. Strict quality guidelines, low yields, intensive manual labour in the vineyard and gentle and individual ageing in the cellar make them what they are: Characterful, precise and unique wines with varietal characteristics that will win over every connoisseur.

Strong yellow colour, elegant and fragrant bouquet of exotic fruits, peach, lemon peel, hazelnut and chalk. Medium to full-bodied with layers of ripe fruit and bright, penetrating acidity. Polished, long and delicate finish. SUPERIORE.DE

A vintage South Tyrolean sparkling wine of elegant lightness. The Chardonnay grapes grow at an altitude of 450 metres around Buchholz in the South Tyrolean lowlands, where ideal sunshine and perfect aeration guarantee an excellent acid-sugar ratio. After pressing and destemming, fermentation takes place with pure yeasts at a controlled temperature of 19°C in stainless steel tanks. The second fermentation takes place according to the Metodo Charmat in pressurised tanks, where the wine matures on the lees for six to nine months at 14°C, developing aroma and body. After separation from the yeast and cooling, the wine is left to mature in the bottle for a further three months.

Chardonnay is a world grape variety – and that is precisely the problem from time to time. Too often it tastes like a desire to be somewhere else: Burgundy, Napa, some ideal. Terlaner Chardonnay does not have this problem. It tastes like Terlan. The vineyards are located on the characteristic quartz porphyry soils on the slopes of Monte Tschöggl, where volcanic primary rock gives the grapes mineral tension and natural freshness. Hand-picked, gentle pressing, slow fermentation in steel, 5–7 months on the fine lees – no wood to over-mould, no butter to smooth.

Mussels in the vineyard? Not uncommon in Valdarno di Sopra. Where today Chardonnay vines take root at the foot of the Pratomagno, millions of years ago there was a lake – the metamorphic soils are criss-crossed with fossilised evidence of that era. The name "Lamelle" honours these grooves in the fossilised shells, which give the wine its unmistakable minerality. After being harvested by hand, the grapes are left to rest overnight at 5°C before being gently pressed. Pure stainless steel vinification at 16°C, two months on the fine lees – that's all it takes to capture the freshness of this terroir.

Chardonnay only arrived in Piedmont in the 19th century – late for a region with such a deep winemaking tradition. But in the municipalities of Fontanile and Castel Boglione, north of Nizza Monferrato, the grape variety found a soil that took it seriously: Marne di Sant'Agata Fossili, an alternation of fossilised marl and sandstone with a good proportion of limestone. The Bertolino family discovered this potential in the 1950s and 60s – at a time when the region's sparkling wine production demanded a Chardonnay of exceptional quality. Today, Tenuta Olim Bauda only produces a few thousand bottles from these vineyards. The grapes are harvest in the first week of September. Gentle pressing, only pre-fermentation must. 36 hours of contact with the fine lees at 5°C with bâtonnage for aromatic extraction, followed by static clarification. Fermentation in large 50-hectolitre wooden vats for around 15 days. Maturation in tonneaux, 10% of which are new, for around one year.

L'Altro is one of the house classics. A Langhe Chardonnay full of character that combines the clarity of the stainless steel, the fine spiciness of the wood and the subtle depth of the lees in a very charming way. The grapes come from higher-lying parcels around Treiso, Serralunga d'Alba and Trezzo Tinella; harvested cool and vinified parcel by parcel. Around three quarters are fermented in stainless steel, the smaller part in French barriques; the wine then remains on the fine lees for several months – regularly stirred for more texture and complexity.

The name Glarea is of Romansh origin and means ‘gravel’. The grapes for this mineral-driven and very harmonious Chardonnay grow at an altitude of around 250 metres on the lower part of the Höllenbach debris cone, in soils rich in limestone and gravel. Thanks to the low hillside location and proximity to the valley floor, a distinct microclimate develops here, characterised by considerable temperature fluctuations. During the day, the Glarea vineyards enjoy very warm temperatures, which are replaced – particularly in the late night and early morning hours – by cool air masses, lending the wine a lovely crispness and freshness.

Serralunga d'Alba is Barolo country. The most limestone-rich soils in the entire appellation, the longest-lived and most structured wines in the zone, the village that pushes Nebbiolo to its limits – and makes it grow there in the first place. The Massolino family has been rooted here since 1896, built the cellar under the historic centre of the village and never considered moving it elsewhere. In 1992, Franco Massolino dared to experiment: Chardonnay on the hills of Serralunga. A provocation in the red wine village. And one that proved to be true – because what these limestone soils give to Nebbiolo, they also give to Chardonnay: structure, minerality, depth, Storage potential. Not a friendly summer wine, but one that bears the signature of its soil. The vinification is as complex as the wine itself: partly in barriques, partly in steel and cement, around 12 months sur lie on the fermentation lees, then at least six months in the bottle – a patience that gives the Chardonnay time to find its feet. Massolino himself calls the monitoring of this vinification "almost obsessive". And rightly so.

In the sun-drenched hills of Castelnuovo Berardenga, where Fèlsina has been one of the undisputed stars of Chianti Classico since 1966, the Poggiali family is writing another story: that of a world-class Tuscan Chardonnay. I Sistri – named after the traditional rattling instruments of the ancient mystery cults – epitomises the experimental passion that led Fèlsina to plant French Chardonnay clones on the nearby Farnetella vineyard back in the early 1980s. Between the Ombrone river and the Poggiolo farm, various plots with different clones, rootstocks and soil formations produce the grapes that have formed the heart of I Sistri since 1987.

Chardonnay Turmhof has a multi-layered bouquet of clear, well-defined apple and pear flavours, flowers and grasses. Creamy on the palate, yet fresh and mountain-mineral, lively and harmonious. Flavours of baked apple, dried flowers and mountain minerality give this wine a special note. Turmhof Chardonnay finishes savoury and crisp, leaving a salty note and a hint of nectarine. SUPERIORE.DE

Margreid lies in the extreme south of South Tyrol – and thus climatically in a different world to the Alpine altitudes near Nals. Warm summers, mild winters and the Ora every afternoon: the warm south wind from Lake Garda that blows through the vineyards, ventilates the vines and keeps the harvesthealthy. This is exactly what Chardonnay loves. The vineyards on the gentle slope between 220 and 350 metres, facing south-southeast, stand on white, broodinglimestone gravel soil with a high humus content – a terroir that allows for fullness and aromatic intensity at the same time. Cellar master Harald Schraffl focuses on ageing with a sense of proportion: fermentation in 30-hectolitre wooden barrels for three weeks, followed by eight months of maturation on the fine lees. The creaminess comes from the yeast, not the wood.

The historic fortified tower in the centre of Entiklar, which gives the winery its name and its middle line its character: structured, expressive, from selected vineyards. One step above the Merus – and you can feel it. Turmhof Chardonnay comes from the same three vineyard sites as Merus, but with a lower yield: 50 to 60 hectolitres per hectare instead of 65 to 75. The altitude range of 210 to 650 metres remains the same – calcareous dolomite soils in Penon, Hofstatt and Rain, calcareous gravel soils from moraine deposits in Entiklar and on the Margreider Leiten, sandy-calcareous alluvial soils in Margreid, Punggl and Kurtinig. What distinguishes Turmhof from Merus is also decided in the cellar: partial ageing in large oak barrels.

Buchholz – as early as the Austrian land register of 1858, the name referred to the valley slopes above Salurn, where terraced vineyards lie on dolomite sedimentary rock at altitudes between 400 and 800 metres. Peter Zemmer, whose family has been making wine in Kurtinig on the Weinstraße since 1928, has chosen this diverse site for his Chardonnay: a mosaic of microclimates and soils that combines alpine freshness with southern ripeness. In the mornings, the breeze from the north cools the vines; in the afternoons, the ‘Ora’ from the south warms them: a daily rhythm that gives the grapes time to develop. The winemaking process is deliberately restrained: a short cold maceration to preserve the fruit, followed by fermentation at 19°C in large wooden barrels.

"Cladrecis" is an elegant interpretation of Chardonnay from the far north-east of Italy – full of character, harmonious and impressively balanced. The grapes come from a small parcel in the eponymous district of the municipality of Prepotto, whose chalky soils and cool microclimate offer ideal conditions for the finesse typical of the grape variety. Maturation in wooden barrels and on the fine lees gives the wine a subtle creaminess, fine roasted flavours and a hint of vanilla without masking the freshness.