wines

Diego and Alberto Cusumano had a dream that took many years to realise. The family, the third generation of one of Sicily's most important wine houses, searched for years for the right piece of Etna – and found it in Castiglione di Sicilia in 2013. On the northern slope of the volcano, in districts such as Verzella, Feudo di Mezzo, Guardiola and Solicchiata, at an altitude of 800 metres, in black, mineral-rich lava soils. Alta Mora – high and black – is not just a name. It is a description of the place. 100% Nerello Mascalese, hand-picked in October. Mash fermentation lasts twelve days in steel, followed by six months in large 25 hectolitre oak barrels. An accessible entry into the Alta Mora portfolio – and a clear statement: the Nerello Mascalese at these altitudes needs no staging.

The world-famous Valpolicella Superiore from Zenato, produced using the Ripasso method, is a rich wine with the best value. It is peppery, with earthy tones and gravel giving way to black cherries and savoury herbs. It reveals deep, silky textures balanced by vibrant acids, while ripe red and black fruits resonate under a hint of lavender. Zenato's Ripassa is concentrated and intense, but at the same time conveys elegance and leaves a fresh note of violet candy on the palate that lingers for a long time. SUPERIORE.DE

Vertigo – vertigo from the heights. Anyone who has ever stood on Livio Felluga’s terrace in Rosazzo will understand the name immediately: the view sweeps over the vineyards to the Karst, as far as Istria, to the walls of ancient Aquileia and far out into the Adriatic Sea. A view that throws you off balance for a moment. And a red wine that does the same. Livio Felluga has blended Schiopettino, the wild, peppery native variety of Friuli, with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon – three very different characters on the same flysch soil of Eocene origin, the characteristic alternation of marl and sandstone of the Rosazzo hills. Gentle destemming, fermentation with skin contact in stainless steel tanks, ageing in steel and small French oak barrels, followed by bottle ageing.

The name Da-Di is derived from the Chinese and means earth/soil. It not only emphasises the organic cultivation of the vines, but also the subsequent ageing in 13 Tuscan terracotta amphorae. The result is a fascinatingly fresh wine that is a joy to drink from the very first sip.

Lake Garda is white wine territory – lugana, Custoza and Soave dominate the perception. Zenato's Cabernet from the single vineyard Santa Cristina proves that serious red wines can also be produced here. The cuvée of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc combines Bordeaux noblesse with the mild microclimate of the lake. Three weeks of maceration in stainless steel with frequent pumping over extracts colour and structure. The wine then matures for 15–18 months in new and used French oak barriques before being left to rest for a further month in the bottle.

Nebbiolo beyond Barolo: Tovasacco comes from the estate's own vineyards around Canale, Priocca and Alba, where the sandy soils of the Roero give the great Piedmontese wine its very own character – less austere, more accessible, but by no means superficial. Manual harvesting leads to a complex selection process: First, the grapes are sorted on a vibrating table and cooled with carbonic acid snow, followed by a second selection of the individual berries after destemming. Mash fermentation takes place over 20 days with délestage and submerged cap, followed by maturation in oak barrels for twelve months.

Straw yellow in colour with a fine, persistent perlage. The nose is a fragrant mix of orange blossom, white peach and lime zest, accompanied by sage and a hint of blossom honey. Delicately sparkling and crystal clear on the palate: juicy stone fruit, fine sweetness and a lively, citric acidity are perfectly balanced. The ageing in pressurised tanks preserves the aromatic purity and ensures lightness and flow. Long, fragrant finish with a delicate minerality – an elegant, typical Moscato d'Asti with a high charm factor. SUPERIORE.DE

Bell'Assai is a fragrant, elegant Frappato from the chalky and sandy soils around Vittoria in south-east Sicily. The grape variety shows itself here in its most delicate form – with a delicate structure, fine fruit and excellent freshness. A clear ruby red colour with a purple hue in the glass. Bell'Assai is aromatic and delicate on the nose: red cherries, raspberries, floral hints of rose and violets and a hint of white spices. Juicy and silky on the palate with a moderate structure, lively acidity and elegant, almost dancing freshness. The tannins are discreet, the finish is fruit-orientated and subtly spicy. A delicate, charming red wine that is ideal with antipasti, grilled fish or light pasta dishes – and is also a real pleasure when slightly chilled. A frappato full of style and joie de vivre. SUPERIORE.DE

The Aleatico grape variety is of Greek origin and is mainly used in Tuscany and central Italy for the production of dessert wines. The grapes were harvested late and processed gently to guarantee maximum flavour concentration and typical sweet wine charm. The wine was matured in stainless steel tanks to preserve freshness and pure fruit. In the glass, the wine has a dense ruby colour with a light violet hue. On the nose, it seduces with candied raspberry, blackcurrant, a delicate rose petal fragrance, sweet fig and a hint of dark chocolate. Soft and supple on the palate, with elegant sweetness and a rich mouthfeel. The lively acidity balances the sweetness perfectly, the finish is long, inviting and pleasantly savoury. An intense, charming wine for conscious moments of pleasure – on its own, with cheese variations or with dark chocolate. Total production: 2,000 bottles. SUPERIORE.DE

A modern Maremma-Rosso with a maritime influence: "Tirrenico" combines Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot – all internationally influenced grape varieties that find their very own expression here on the Tuscan coast. Despite the warm vintage, the 2022 is balanced and clearly structured. Dark ruby in the glass with violet reflections. Ripe blackcurrant, plum, some graphite, herbal spice and a hint of eucalyptus on the nose. Juicy on the palate, with present, ripe fruit, fine-grained tannins and a fresh, mineral finish. The ageing in barriques adds depth without dominating. A powerful yet elegant red with a Tuscan soul and international stature. SUPERIORE.DE

Riesling (Riesing renano, not Riesling italico) is regarded as the soul of Northern Europe – moselle, Rhine, Alsace. The fact that it finds a completely unique voice in the hills of Trentino is down to two men who started out in Faedo in 1975, and two soils that could hardly be more different. In Cembra, Maso Besleri, Località Val Bona, the vines grow on volcanic porphyry – —dark, grainy, rich in rounded pebbles. The slopes have a gradient of up to 50 per cent: heroic in every respect, Guyot training, 6,000 vines per hectare. In Faedo, Località Palai, the soil is the exact opposite: limestone and dolomite of marine origin, sedimentary, light in colour and providing structure.

700 metres. That is the altitude at which one of Pojer e Sandri’s two Pinot Noir vineyards is situated – in Palai, south-facing, on local limestone soil, swept by the Ora del Garda. For Pinot Nero in Trentino, this is exceptionally high. Long, cool nights, marked temperature fluctuations, and a slow ripening process that gives the grape variety exactly the time it needs to develop elegance and freshness. The second vineyard is in Faedo itself, in Località Rocol, at 300 metres – lower, warmer, and more full-bodied. Together, these two sites produce a Pinot Nero that fully embodies Faedo. Since 2002, the winery has been using a proprietary, patented process: Iperriduzione – the entire processing of the grapes takes place without oxygen, exclusively in stainless steel tanks. No external intervention – the grape’s natural protective compounds do the work. Fresh, clear, consistent.

Pliny the Elder wrote about it. Virgil, Martial and Horace raised it in verse. The Falernian was the wine of ancient Rome – produced in the Ager Falernum, that fertile triangle between Monte Massico, the river Savone and the slopes of the extinct Roccamonfina volcano. No other wine-growing region in Italy can look back on such a clearly documented wine-growing history. Lawyer Francesco Paolo Avallone – fascinated by the old texts – searched for the original grape varieties in the 1960s. He found them: a few Falanghina biotipo Falerna vines, survivors of the phylloxera devastation of the 19th century, direct descendants of the ancient cultivated vines. What he started, his children and grandchildren continue. The winery has carried the Ager Falernum in its name ever since.

Here is one of the finest expressions of the white Carricante grape variety, aged on the fine lees for six months. Alta Mora Bianco comes from vineyards on the northern slopes of Mount Etna, where Carricante vines thrive at altitudes of 600 to 900 metres – directly on volcanic rock rich in minerals and ash. The cool altitude, combined with intense sunshine and significant day-night temperature variations, imbues this wine with an unmistakable freshness, structure and salty tension. The wine is aged exclusively in stainless steel to ensure that the purity of the grape variety and the terroir is conveyed unadulterated in the glass.

Since 1977, a different bird has adorned every Castellare label – a tribute to the biodiversity of the Tuscan vineyards and a symbol of Paolo Panerai's vision of preserving the authentic Chianti Classico. The estate consistently eschews international grape varieties in favour of Tuscan tradition: 95% Sangioveto, the noble local Sangiovese clone, and 5% Canaiolo form the classic formula of Italy's most famous red wine. The grapes grow on chalky soils between 350 and 400 metres above sea level in Castellina in Chianti, where they develop their typical elegance. After vinification, the wine matures for seven months in French barriques.

In the western heart of Chianti Classico, between Florence and Siena, lie the four historic vineyards of Castello di Monsanto: Il Poggio, Scanni, Il Mulino and Il Salcio. On 72 hectares between 280 and 320 metres above sea level, surrounded by a Mediterranean biotope of cypresses, junipers, brooms and strawberry trees, predominantly Sangiovese vines thrive on the characteristic Galestro soils – the slate-like rock that gives the wines depth and powerful characteristics. The Bianchi family has consistently favoured the quality of Sangiovese for over 60 years and created the first Chianti Classico cru in 1962 with Il Poggio. The Annata is made from a selection of grapes from the younger vineyards, which are particularly suitable for ageing in large Slavonian oak barrels. 90% Sangiovese is complemented by 10% Canaiolo and Colorino – a classic blend that combines freshness and accessibility with the characteristic depth of the Monsanto terroir.

There are no fixed rules at Zýmē, only the pursuit of experimentation to offer a unique and honest experience that also conveys the character of each individual vintage. Il Bianco From Black to White (sealed with a glass cork) opens with a golden colour and a whitish sheen typical of grapes that have no skin contact. The predominant grape variety is Rondinella Bianca, a mutation that was only discovered by chance in the vineyards of Zýmē and is unique in Italy.

In the heart of the prestigious Le Sondraie vineyard, just a few kilometres from the Tyrrhenian Sea, Marilisa Allegrini's very personal favourite wine thrives. Solosole epitomises the intimate connection between the Mediterranean Vermentino grape variety and the unique Bolgheri terroir – a wine that is like the "fruit of the sunlight", as its name suggests. This 100% Vermentino comes from specially selected Corsican clones that benefit from the exceptional abundance of light on the Tuscan coast. The prolonged sun-ripening intensifies the aromas and flavours, while the night-time harvest guarantees stress-free grapes with intact aromatic precursors.

The great estates in Bordeaux have shown the way: a so-called "second wine" is not the wine that didn't make it. It is another argument. Younger vines, different plots, shorter ageing periods – and thus a wine that is drunk earlier, appears fresher and shows a different side of the same terroir. Tenuta San Leonardo brought this concept to the Dolomites in 2005.

This characterful Greco di Tufo comes from high-altitude plots around Lapio, where Clelia Romano works meticulously and skilfully on volcanic-calcareous soils. Alèxandros is matured in stainless steel tanks in order to bring the varietal typicity and mineral character of the terroir unadulterated into the glass. The typical salinity of Greco is elegantly emphasised here. A purist, serious white wine with depth of origin and a clear signature – typical Colli di Lapio, typical Lapio.

While the whole world was talking about the extinction of Trebbiano di Soave, the three Tessari sisters set out on a mission: to save an almost forgotten grape variety. In collaboration with Professor Attilio Scienza from the University of Milan, they selected the best clones of old Trebbiano vines and planted the Massifitti vineyard in 2006 – named after the "dense rocks", the large, compact basalt boulders that characterise the south-facing slope. Only two hectares at an altitude of 300 metres, where the volcanic minerality shows itself in its purest form. What is produced here is unique: probably the only single-varietal Trebbiano di Soave in the world. It matures for 15 months in stainless steel on the fine lees, then a further 12 months in the bottle before the sisters release it.