wines

Pinot Grigio is sometimes mass-produced in northern Italy. Millions of bottles, pale style, interchangeable. And then there is the Cantina Terlan, alongside a few other serious winegrowers. At 270 to 350 metres, on the gently sloping porphyry slopes around Terlan, the Ruländer – as its old, more appropriate name – tells a different story. Hand-picked, gentle pressing, slow fermentation in steel, 5-7 months on the fine lees: a vinification that gives the grape variety room to show itself.

South Tyrol's now second most important red grape variety finds its perfect stage on the sun-drenched slopes of Andriano between 300 and 450 metres above sea level. Here, where calcareous clay soils meet dolomite rock, the Burgundian aristocrat unfolds its full alpine finesse. The unique microclimate of this altitude gives the thin-skinned berries their characteristic elegance and aromatic depth. The hand-picked grapes are gently destemmed and fermented at a controlled temperature to preserve the delicate flavours. A six-month refinement in stainless steel tanks on the fine lees gives this Pinot Nero additional texture and complexity.

Barbera is the heart of everyday life in Piedmont – but anyone who knows it knows that everyday life can be demanding. Prunotto harvests it from clay and sandy soils around Alba, lets several vineyards grow together in spring and consistently does without wood. The variety should speak, not be moulded. 2024 was a wet, labour-intensive vintage. Consistent thinning out in the vineyard ensured the concentration – and the freshness that makes this Barbera so lively. Harvest at the end of September to the beginning of October, five to seven days of maceration at 28–30°C, malolactic fermentation until mid-December, then stainless steel.

Back in the 1980s, Antonio Mastroberardino was one of the first to experiment with something that was almost considered a provocation at the time: he vinified Aglianico, the large, tannin-rich red wine variety from southern Italy, as a white wine. He called the result "Plinius". The experiment lay dormant until the family revived it under a new name: Neroametà – "half black" – a tribute to the grape's origins and the courage to think differently. 100% Aglianico, grown in Mirabella Eclano at 400 metres, in deep, sandy-loamy soils with a volcanic matrix and clay at depth – the same terroir that produces the Taurasi DOCG. Hand-picked in mid-October. Then the decisive step: Vinification without any contact with the skins, in steel tanks at a controlled temperature, followed by ten months on the lees and at least 18 months of ageing in the bottle. The colour stays outside – elegance and minerality are allowed inside.

The Rosato from the Alta Mora range is made from old Nerello Mascalese vines growing on slopes between 600 and 800 metres above sea level on the northern flanks of Mount Etna. The barren, volcanic soils, characterised by lava rock and mineral ash, lend the wine a tension typical of its terroir and a delicate, salty depth. The grapes are harvested early and pressed immediately to preserve freshness and finesse. The wine is aged exclusively in stainless steel.

Serralunga d'Alba is Barolo country. The most limestone-rich soils in the entire appellation, the longest-lived and most structured wines in the zone, the village that pushes Nebbiolo to its limits – and makes it grow there in the first place. The Massolino family has been rooted here since 1896, built the cellar under the historic centre of the village and never considered moving it elsewhere. In 1992, Franco Massolino dared to experiment: Chardonnay on the hills of Serralunga. A provocation in the red wine village. And one that proved to be true – because what these limestone soils give to Nebbiolo, they also give to Chardonnay: structure, minerality, depth, Storage potential. Not a friendly summer wine, but one that bears the signature of its soil. The vinification is as complex as the wine itself: partly in barriques, partly in steel and cement, around 12 months sur lie on the fermentation lees, then at least six months in the bottle – a patience that gives the Chardonnay time to find its feet. Massolino himself calls the monitoring of this vinification "almost obsessive". And rightly so.

At some point in the past, a small metal plate on the roof of the Castagnedi farmstead in the Monti Garbi moved in the wind – like a flag, a "bandina". A landmark for all those who knew these hills. Today, it is the name of the single vineyard that lies at the heart of the Tenuta. Colognola ai Colli, eastern Valpolicella: calcareous sandy soils at around 300 metres. This is the terroir that has belonged to the four Castagnedi brothers since 1995 and which characterises their wines with a characteristic balsamic: liquorice, white mint, graphite, China. Corvina and Corvinone form the backbone with 70%, Rondinella brings freshness, Croatina and Oseleta the flavour. Hand-picked in October, fermentation at a controlled temperature with certified organic yeasts, natural malo. Then aged for 24 months in 25-hectolitre French oak tonneaux – medium roasted, integrated, never dominant.

In 1787, Thomas Jefferson described Nebbiolo as fresh, slightly sparkling and smooth. Gian Battista Croce, court goldsmith at Casa Savoia in Turin, noted exactly the same thing back in 1606. Giuseppe Vajra came across these protocols during historical research – and understood immediately: Nebbiolo was not always the way it is drunk today. There was a time before long maceration, before large barrels, before Barolo. Claré J.C. – "J.C." stands for Juliette Colbert, the woman who revolutionised the vinification of Barolo in the 19th century – is a time capsule there. 100% Nebbiolo from young vineyards on both Langhe soils: Tortonian and Serravallian. Short maceration, gentle extraction, part fermented with whole grapes, maturation in stainless steel tanks until bottling in February. Nebbiolo in its earliest, freshest form.

Barbera is the backbone of Asti, so to speak. More planted than any other grape variety in the province, more familiar on every table, more accessible than the great Nebbiolo – and yet in the best vineyards it has a depth that refutes any comparison with the simple everyday wine. The Bertolino family has understood this from the very beginning. Le Rocchette is their proof. 100% Barbera with a maximum yield of 80 to 90 quintals per hectare. Hand-picked in the first week of October, processed the same evening. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. Then 18 months in 25-hectolitre French Allier oak barrels, which give the Barbera structure and depth without taking away its characteristic freshness. A further six months in the bottle. The Superiore appellation is not a formality here.

Pèppoli is an entertaining, very relaxed red wine with a firm fan base. A sparkling, intense ruby colour with a slight garnet hue. The Pèppoli expresses its strong personality through its bouquet of ripe fruit with light mineral accents. The juicy flavour with lively tannins spreads gently yet powerfully across the palate and lingers for a long time. Very easy to drink, very classic and, incidentally, excellent value! SUPERIORE.DE

Luigi Maffini's Kràtos is an organic wine grown in the foothills of the ancient ruins of Paestum. It spends only a short time in steel tanks and is smoky but also fruit-driven, with musky dried apricots, lime zest, crushed rocks and sea spray forming its captivating bouquet. Energetic on the palate, soft in texture and packed with zesty citrus and mineral notes balanced by a core of vibrant, ripe yellow apples. Finishes fresh and bold with notes of lemon oil and peach. For an "entry-level" Fiano, this is great cinema! SUPERIORE.DE

The name Lepus – latin for "hare" – refers to the heraldic animal of the Haas family, which has been rooted in picturesque Montagna, south of Bolzano, since 1880. What began as a small family business developed under Franz Haas into one of the most visionary wineries in South Tyrol, causing a sensation with striking artist labels by Riccardo Schweizer and consistent screw caps. The Lepus embodies classic South Tyrolean white wine elegance: vinified from pure Pinot Bianco, the grapes come from vineyards in three different locations between 400 and 800 metres above sea level around Montagna, facing south and south-west on geologically diverse soils – from loose sandy soils to dense, weathered porphyry. The wine is vinified 80 per cent in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks and 20 per cent in small oak barriques, followed by several months of ageing on the lees.

A dedication to the daughter, a commitment to tradition: Colorino is one of Tuscany's almost forgotten grape varieties. For centuries, the thick-skinned grape served as a source of colour and structure for Chianti – rarely stood alone in the limelight. Piancornello dares to experiment. The Colorino del Valdarno, as it grows here, is considered the most prestigious clone of this indigenous variety. Its small berries produce deep pigments and strong tannins, while the flavour is rather restrained. A wine for explorers, not for showmanship.

Capalbio – this is the southernmost end of the Tuscan coast, where the Maremma is wilder and more unspoilt than anywhere else, with views of Monte Argentario and the Burano lagoon. This is where Monteverro is located: a biodynamically farmed estate that Georg and Barbara Weber awoke from its slumber around two decades ago. Vermentino is the white soul of this place – fresh, fruity, light-hearted, with the fine minerality of clay and limestone soil. 100% Vermentino, harvested by hand from 5,555 vines per hectare with a north-south orientation. Whole-cluster pressing, no malolactic fermentation – because this is about freshness, not fullness. Six months on the fine lees in stainless steel tanks. The result is exactly what Monteverro formulates as its goal: "An expression of Italy's joie de vivre."

A wonderful and completely "unplanned" wine: Paolo actually wanted to plant more Moscato vines in this small 1.5-hectare, sustainably cultivated vineyard when he recognised the quality of the Barbera grapes ripening there in 2016. Without further ado, he decided to vinify a Barbera, which he then aptly named Per Sbaglio - which means "by mistake". We congratulate him on this decision, as just 3,000 bottles are released onto the market every year.

Timorasso is not mainstream, but rather a speciality of Piedmont. With its Derthona, Vite Colte presents a white wine that you rediscover and then prefer to drink again immediately – because it has a different appearance and is captivatingly clear. It has a bright straw yellow colour in the glass, almost fading into gold. Notes of acacia blossom, hawthorn, ripe peach and a hint of honey emerge on the nose – plus a cool shimmer of flint and minerality, which makes everything a little more exciting. On the palate, structure meets juiciness: full-bodied, yet light on the palate thanks to present, fine acidity. There is also a subtle nutty undertone that adds fine depth without becoming dominant. The finish is long, elegant and clears the palate with chalky freshness. SUPERIORE.DE

A real rarity: Ebnerhof is home to the southernmost Grüner-Veltliner vineyards in South Tyrol. What is mainstream in Austria is exclusive in the Isarco Valley – the grape variety has felt at home here for generations, but only a few winegrowers dare to try their hand at it. The Unterthiner family cultivates this Austrian legend on mineral-rich, gravelly soils at an altitude of 500 to 550 metres, where the special soil conditions give the wine its unmistakable signature. After gentle processing, the must ferments at a controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks, after which the wine matures on the fine lees – partly in small wooden barrels –which gives it additional depth.

Medium golden yellow colour. Spicy, intense nose with aromas of roses, lychee and lily blossom. Powerful and round on the palate with a full, creamy texture. Piquant and mineral notes are flanked by a fresh acidity and notes of apricot and honeydew melon. Gewürztraminer Stoass ends harmoniously in a finely fruity and smooth finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Calliano, Basso Monferrato. Three hundred metres above the gentle hills of Monferrato lies the single vineyard that gives this wine its name – and its character. Calcareous, clayey soils with veins of sand, an assemblage that is not a matter of course in Piedmont: 60% Barbera, 40% Syrah. Two grape varieties that could hardly be more different – one indigenous and acidic, the other a Rhône traveller with tannin structure and spice. Prunotto ferments the two separately, only allowing them to grow together after malolactic fermentation.

The Trebbiano and Malvasia Bianca grapes for this exceptional white wine come from the Casanova dell'Aia vineyard in Radda in Chianti, the first 0.2-hectare, calcareous and clayey plot that the family bought and planted in the 1980s and then renewed in 2014. It matures on the fine lees mostly in terracotta amphorae and only a small part remains in stainless steel tanks. Total production per vintage: 2,500 bottles.

The name is reminiscent of the ancient grain fields that once covered the hills of Spoltore before vines took root here. This Trebbiano has been labelled "Oro" since 2017 – a claim that it lives up to. The Di Properzio brothers select only three hectares of old vines on compact limestone-clay soils near the coast. What distinguishes Spelt Oro from conventional Trebbiano is its radical patience: after fermentation, the wine rests for four months sur lie in stainless steel tanks, which are deliberately located outside the winery – exposed to natural temperature fluctuations. Then another year in concrete. It is bottled after fifteen months, unfiltered, unclarified, without any stabilisation.

Diego and Alberto Cusumano had a dream that took many years to realise. The family, the third generation of one of Sicily's most important wine houses, searched for years for the right piece of Etna – and found it in Castiglione di Sicilia in 2013. On the northern slope of the volcano, in districts such as Verzella, Feudo di Mezzo, Guardiola and Solicchiata, at an altitude of 800 metres, in black, mineral-rich lava soils. Alta Mora – high and black – is not just a name. It is a description of the place. 100% Nerello Mascalese, hand-picked in October. Mash fermentation lasts twelve days in steel, followed by six months in large 25 hectolitre oak barrels. An accessible entry into the Alta Mora portfolio – and a clear statement: the Nerello Mascalese at these altitudes needs no staging.