wines

Kretzer – that sounds rougher than the wine is. The old South Tyrolean word for rosé, once derived from the tart freshness of unripe berries, now has a completely different character: fruity, lively, with the unmistakable temperament of Lagrein. Because Lagrein is pure South Tyrol – an indigenous grape variety that has been at home between Bolzano and Terlano for centuries. As a rosé wine, it shows a side that the strong red wine does not always reveal: Lightness, freshness, accessibility. The grapes grow at an altitude of 250 to 280 metres in the flat, sunny vineyards around Terlan. Hand-picked, gentle pressing of the whole bunches, slow fermentation in steel – 6 to 7 months on the fine lees.

Calabria showed its sunniest side in the warm, dry year of 2023. The single-varietal Magliocco from the "Megonio" vineyard benefited from this constellation with deeply ripe grapes, concentrated fruit and healthy berry skins. The vinification process was classic: temperature-controlled mash fermentation, followed by ageing in barriques for around a year – enough to create structure without masking the authenticity of the variety.

Floramundi combines the sensual power of Nero d'Avola with the elegance of Frappato – a classic Cerasuolo di Vittoria that charmingly harmonises the DOCG origin, freshness and finesse. The vines grow in south-east Sicily on red sand and limestone soils around Vittoria. Maturation in stainless steel tanks followed by ageing in the bottle preserves the freshness and aromatic expressiveness of this traditional appellation.

L'Altro is one of the house classics. A Langhe Chardonnay full of character that combines the clarity of the stainless steel, the fine spiciness of the wood and the subtle depth of the lees in a very charming way. The grapes come from higher-lying parcels around Treiso, Serralunga d'Alba and Trezzo Tinella; harvested cool and vinified parcel by parcel. Around three quarters are fermented in stainless steel, the smaller part in French barriques; the wine then remains on the fine lees for several months – regularly stirred for more texture and complexity.

Elisabetta Geppetti has dedicated this rosato to a woman who came before her: Rosa Mati – the first in the family to believe in the Maremma when others were still looking the other way. A woman who invested when this wild coastal landscape in south-west Tuscany was not yet a wine region in the modern sense. This belief was the beginning of everything that Le Pupille is today. And the wine that bears her name is Elisabetta Geppetti's most personal work – unchanged in its conviction since the first vintage in 2002: 100 per cent Syrah, as a rosé. This is not an obvious choice. Syrah is known in Maremma primarily as a powerful red wine. To press it as a rosé – transparent, fresh, elegant – requires precision.

Rosa Mara is undoubtedly one of the favourite wines of Mattia Vezzola, who is dedicated to reinterpreting a historic vinification method that has been practised in this region since the 18th century. This Chiaretto is produced using the traditional "a lacrima" method, in which the grapes are pressed gently and carefully so that they begin to "cry". To achieve the perfect colour, the tone of the rosato is constantly monitored during production. Speaking of perfect: with this wine, Mattia proves how masterfully he has mastered this process and brought it to absolute perfection.

Goldmuskateller is one of the oldest grape varieties in South Tyrol, which until a few years ago was still considered moody and demanding. Manincor shows what this diva can become when given the right sites: Mareit Leiten at 350 metres, extremely steeply exposed to the south with warm gravel soils and moraine deposits. In addition, Vogelleiten and Panholzer with loamy limestone gravel soil – sites where the exuberant growth of the Muscat is tamed and reaches perfect ripeness. The destemmed berries macerate in the press for twelve hours to extract flavour and structure from the skins. Fermentation takes place in wooden barrels and steel tanks, mostly spontaneously with wild yeasts. During the five-month maturation on the fine lees, the aroma and flavour are refined – the wine develops the balance between fruit and minerality that characterises dry Muscat.

Novaserra Greco di Tufo is the most famous white wine icon from Mastroberardino – a prime example of the depth and elegance that this grape variety can achieve. The grapes come from the best vineyards around Tufo, where calcareous and sulphurous soils give the wine its distinctive mineral signature. Brilliant straw yellow in the glass with golden reflections. The nose seduces with yellow plum, candied lemon, ripe pear, lime blossom and a hint of flint. Dense and harmonious on the palate, with ripe fruit, fine herbal spice and a salty vein. A Greco di Tufo of calibre every year – powerful, elegant and clear in its terroir expression. SUPERIORE.DE

Ornello is an open wine with beautiful, inviting aromas of ripe, dark fruit, cedar wood, dried herbs, tobacco and incense. All of this has a pleasant depth. Medium to full-bodied with supple tannins and a juicy, ripe finish. Very good value. SUPERIORE.DE

The mulberry tree gave it its name. In Valtellina, it stood between the rows of vines for centuries, providing shade, bearing fruit and forming part of the landscape. Today it has become rare – but its name lives on in this wine, as a silent homage to the old mountain agriculture of this region. 100% Chiavennasca – the local name for the Nebbiolo of Valtellina – from vineyards in different subzones. What distinguishes the Mazér from the classic zone typologies is a small detail with a big effect: a small proportion of the grapes are dried for a few days. The concentrated must from these dried berries is added to the main wine – a touch of the Sforzato principle (appassimento), enough to soften the tannins and weave dark fruit flavours deeper into the bouquet. The result is a Valtellina Superiore with the freshness and purity of the mountains – and a velvety accessibility that makes it enjoyable earlier.

The name reveals the concept: Cinquanta – fifty – stands for the fifty-fifty split between Primitivo and Negroamaro, the two leading grape varieties of Salento. With this cuvée, Cantine San Marzano, founded in 1962 as a winegrowers' cooperative and now one of the largest producers in Apulia with over 1,200 members, has created a wine with an immediate impact. The grapes come from vines of different ages on the iron oxide-rich terra rossa soils of the province of Taranto. After the harvest, maceration takes place at a controlled temperature, followed by twelve months of ageing in wooden barrels.

"Le Tense" is made from grapes that come exclusively from the Sassella DOCG subzone. During Swiss rule (1512 - 1797), the best vineyards were "secured" by armed guards, which is how it got its name. They became the most famous vineyards in the appellation. The selection of vines produces a wine that expresses the character of the soil: old stones and rocks that represent the terroir of Sassella. Nebbiolo from Sassella produces elegant aromas and delicate, harmonious flavours that are typical of the alpine reds of Valtellina.

Lagrein – the "local hero" of South Tyrol, as cellar master Rudi Kofler calls it. Originally native to Bolzano, this indigenous grape variety has long since found a home in the Terlan area. Founded in 1893, the winery, the first co-operative in the village and today one of the most prestigious addresses for South Tyrolean white wines, also cultivates this traditional red variety with its own meticulousness. Harvested by hand, destemmed and fermented at a controlled temperature in stainless steel, the wine then matures for 7–10 months in large wooden barrels. This ageing process gives the Lagrein its velvety structure without overpowering the fruit.

An exceptionally characterful and powerful Cerasuolo di Vittoria made from equal parts Frappato and Nero d'Avola. On the nose, it displays a pure bouquet of sweet violets, black cherries and hints of wet stone. It impresses with its silky texture, enveloping the palate with bright red and blue fruits, along with a refreshing wave of juicy acidity. Hints of spiced orange and inner flowers linger long into the well-structured, long final. Perfect at the table. SUPERIORE.DE

The name reveals the origin: pepis made up of the classic Sauvignon vineyards Penon and Pinzon, which are located in the municipalities of Kurtatsch and Montan on opposite sides of the valley. A clever move – while one side receives its full ration of sunshine in the morning, the other is only spoilt in the afternoon. The result: grapes from 250 to 550 metres above sea level that ripen on calcareous, loamy, gravelly soils and benefit from extreme day-night fluctuations. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks at a cool 19°C.

Straw yellow with a greenish tinge. Made from 100% Cortese from selected, hilly parcels in the Gavi region – fermented cool and matured on fine lees in stainless steel to preserve freshness and finesse. Clear citrus notes, white peach and pear on the nose, with a hint of blossom and delicate almond. Dry, straightforward and lively on the palate: Juicy, precise fruit, a taut, citric acidity and a fine, salty mineral tone that leads into the long, clear finish. A classic, elegant Gavi – straightforward, animating and charming. Excellent for light summer cuisine, with fish and rice dishes and white meat, but also a real pleasure to drink on its own. SUPERIORE.DE

When the morning dew moistens the young Vermentino vines in Gallura, the inspiration for Lintóri – sardinian for "Rugiada del mattino". Since 2010, the traditional Capichera winery has been vinifying this deliberately freshest expression of its Vermentino portfolio from the youngest vineyards between Arzachena, Olbia and Palau. Where ancient granite formations meet sea breezes, the 100% Vermentino thrives on sandy, stony soils of volcanic origin. The hand-picked grapes from the late August harvest are matured in stainless steel to preserve their crystalline minerality.

For decades, Radici has been synonymous with Mastroberardino's uncompromising work on the great indigenous grape varieties of Campania. The grapes for this Fiano icon come from high-altitude plots near Lapio, whose volcanic soils and cool continental microclimate give the grape variety exceptional tension, aromatic depth and longevity.

In the Gallurese dialect of northern Sardinia, "també" means something like "that's the way it is" – a straightforward statement, a kind of silent shrug of the shoulders of the island that says it all. The brothers Fabrizio and Mario Ragnedda have given this expression to a wine that is perfectly suited to it: natural, direct, without the need for explanation. Capichera, founded in the 1970s in Arzachena, in the heart of Gallura, has shaped the history of quality Vermentino in Sardinia like no other winery. On the granite soils of the north, the land of nuraghi and maquis, the brothers built up a philosophy that still applies today: rigorous vineyard work, respect for the terroir, no compromise on quality.

Vietti captures the soul of Dolcetto in all its unpretentiousness – trevìe (formerly TreVigne) is like a playlist hit that is instantly catchy but lingers in the memory. The grapes come from plots in Monforte, Serralunga and Castiglione Falletto and are fermented spontaneously in stainless steel tanks. Extracted with gentle pumpovers, the wine matures on the fine lees – without wood, without make-up, simply pure purity.

The name Glarea is of Rhaeto-Romanic origin and means gravel. The grapes for this mineral and very harmonious Chardonnay grow at an altitude of around 250 metres on the lower part of the Höllenbach debris cone in soils rich in limestone and gravel. Thanks to the low hillside location and the proximity to the valley floor, a unique microclimate is created here, characterised by considerable temperature fluctuations. During the day, the Glarea vineyards enjoy very warm temperatures, which are replaced by cool air masses in the late hours of the night and early morning, giving it a lovely tautness and freshness.

Nero d'Avola and Nocera in a classic cuvée, matured for 12 months in 25hl tonneaux – planetas Mamertino comes from the clay and limestone hills of Baronia in the province of Messina. The traditional DOC area goes back to a Roman designation and was already recognised as a wine of distinction by Pliny the Elder. A dense ruby red colour with a violet hue in the glass. The bouquet is full of character and brooding: dark cherries, blackberries and preserved plums meet herbs, balsamic notes, leather and a hint of tobacco. Powerful on the palate, with ripe tannins, dark fruit and a spicy, mineral backbone. The Nocera grape brings freshness and structure, while the Nero d'Avola provides fullness and density. The long, balanced finish clearly reveals the origin and ageing process. An independent red wine from the north-east of the island that combines history and modern elegance in a very exciting way. SUPERIORE.DE

Rocca Rubia is an archetypal Carignano del Sulcis – powerful, Mediterranean and at the same time of astonishing elegance. The grapes come from old, partly ungrafted vines in the sandy, coastal vineyards of the lower Sulcis region in south-west Sardinia. Fermentation took place at a controlled temperature in stainless steel tanks and the wine was matured for around 10 months in French oak barriques with a successful balance of wood character and fruit expression.