Wines from South Tyrol and Trentino

"Many individuals" – is the motto of this extraordinary comet, named after Rainer Zierock, the late viticulture professor and friend of the Lageder family. Over 25 years ago, Zierock planted over 200 grape varieties from all over the world in Casòn Hirschprunn in Margreid, between 230 and 360 metres above sea level on sandy, stony dolomitic limestone soil. What began as an ampelographic experiment became a vinological statement: a blended set not of three, but of around 200 different varieties – white and red grapes together. "Out of chaos, movement ultimately creates form," said Joseph Beuys.

A vineyard like a time capsule: Replanted around 1900 after the phylloxera epidemic, the oldest vines have been growing here for 120 years on calcareous sandy loam soils between 290 and 320 metres above sea level. With MAX XIX, Alois Lageder is preserving one of these rare South Tyrolean treasures – an authentic "mixed set" of different Vernatsch varieties such as Tschaggelevernatsch, Edelvernatsch and Grauvernatsch, complemented by Lagrein, Teroldego and other indigenous varieties. The special thing about this heterogeneity: at harvest time, some grapes are perfectly ripe, others are already overripe and others are still unripe – a natural interplay between sugar and acidity that gives each vintage its own tension.

Since 1986, Gewürztraminer has been one of the founding wines of the legendary Sanct Valentin line – the top collection with which cellar master Hans Terzer once raised the bar for South Tyrolean premium wines. The winery selects only the best grapes for this wine from carefully chosen vineyards in the municipality of Eppan, where the grape variety finds ideal conditions on calcareous gravel between 450 and 600 metres above sea level. What characterises it, apart from its aromatic intensity, is its remarkable longevity – a characteristic that sets it apart from many other Gewürztraminer wines and promises a great drinking experience even after years of ageing in the bottle. The grapes are harvested by hand with rigorous selection. A short maceration is followed by gentle pressing before temperature-controlled fermentation begins. The wine is matured in stainless steel tanks – a deliberate decision to preserve the varietal aromas in all their splendour.

At some point in the history of Nals Margreid, the Gambero Rosso even declared Sirmian to be the best white wine in Italy. We are not surprised. Above Nals, in the Sirmian district, the slopes lie between 500 and 700 metres above sea level. South-east facing, alpine climate: mild summers, cool autumns, a long growing season that ends in mid-October with the harvest. The soil is a geological archive: Permeable glacial moraine of limestone, gneiss, mica, slate and marble, deposited millions of years ago by glaciers in the Western Alps, resting on porphyry, the volcanic bedrock of the bedrock.

Maso Michei is located high up in a secluded mountain world in southern Trentino. There, the vines thrive at an altitude of 790 to 850 metres on a sun-drenched south-facing slope in unspoilt nature. In this remarkable location for viticulture, the vines grow slowly and the grapes ripen late. With the acquisition of the 13-hectare Maso Michei vineyard in the Valle dei Ronchi above Ala, Martin Foradori Hofstätter has returned to the roots of his ancestors in Trentino.

Siebeneich is not a fantasy name. The small village to the west of Bolzano gives its name to the wine – and itself bears one of the oldest wine stories in South Tyrol. Archaeologists found vine knives from the late Iron Age here, which are considered the oldest evidence of prehistoric Weinwirtschaft in the region. Merlot on this soil: a young grape variety on ancient ground. Cellar master Rudi Kofler says that Merlot grows best in Terlan on the warm, south-facing clay slopes. This is exactly where Siebeneich is located – a terroir that gives this international variety the substance to tell the story of South Tyrol instead of imitating Bordeaux. Hand-picked, destemming, slow maceration in steel, malolactic fermentation – then 12 months of ageing: 70 per cent in large wooden barrels, 30 per cent in barriques, one third of which are new. Power with control.

Tannenberg – a parcel within the Lieben Aich vineyard that stands alone. While the Lieben Aich represents the entire Tenuta, this Sauvignon concentrates on a specific parcel: the one with the most pronounced mineral structure. South-western slope, 300 metres above sea level, warm and breezy microclimate. The soils of sandy loam over porphyry weathered rock are water-permeable and low in nutrients – conditions that require concentration. 2024 was a challenging vintage: a wet spring, then a hot and dry summer, followed by a golden autumn that allowed for perfect physiological ripeness. In mid-September, the grapes showed ripe fruit, cool character and moderate alcohol – ideal conditions for long-lasting wines with tension. The yield per hectare was 43 hectolitres. Vinification follows Manincor's biodynamic philosophy: the destemmed berries macerate on the press for twelve hours to extract flavour and structure from the skins. Spontaneous fermentation with the grapes' own yeasts takes place in wooden barrels, followed by nine months of ageing on the fine lees. The phases of the moon determine sowing, cultivation and harvesting: Rudolf Steiner's principles, consistently implemented. 11,900 bottles and 217 magnums were filled.

When the joy of experimentation meets biodynamic consistency, wines like this Bronner from Alois Lageder's Kometen series are born. Only 259 bottles were produced – from a single barrique. The Bronner grape variety, a fungus-resistant cross between Märzling and Saint Laurent, is considered a first-generation PIWI variety. While such grape varieties are increasingly being promoted in cultivation, they are still met with reluctance in sales. This wine is impressive proof of their potential.

"Curiosity about the future" – is the motto of this extraordinary comet, which is not just a wine, but a climate change experiment. For many years, Alois Lageder has been working on the question of which grape varieties are suitable for future higher average temperatures and more extreme weather conditions in South Tyrol. The answer: plant grape varieties from southern wine-growing regions of Europe and observe how they behave in cooler environments. The hypothesis was that these varieties would develop higher acidity and moderate sugar levels in South Tyrol. Today, VIO XIII is one of the most successful experiments in this series.

Sauvignon Sanct Valentin is probably the best-known white wine from the St. Michael-Eppan winery. It has been vinified from carefully selected single vineyards at the foot of the Mendelstock since 1989. Yellow-green in colour, dense bouquet of yellow fruit, gooseberry, elderflower and ripe redcurrant, smooth on the palate with elegant, floral fullness and crisp acidity. A great and very savoury top wine and probably the most award-winning white from the internationally highly respected winegrowers' cooperative. SUPERIORE.DE

Pinot Grigio Unterebner is an exceptional wine: golden yellow in colour, elegant aromas of blossom honey, lavender and tropical fruit. Delicate buttery notes, very balanced and charismatic, long and powerful on the finish. SUPERIORE.DE

When the first snow powders the peaks and most winegrowers have long since closed their cellars, the real work begins on Mount Roen. At the end of November, sometimes not until the beginning of December, grapes are still hanging on the vines here – golden-brown, raisined, concentrated to the essence. Every year it is a new bet with the weather, a calculated risk that the Tramin winery has been taking for decades. Because what matures here on the eastern and south-eastern slopes above Söll at an altitude of 300 to 500 metres is no ordinary sweet wine. The 15 to 25-year-old vines are deeply rooted in calcareous gravel and loamy soil, interspersed with porphyry rock. The extreme climate – mediterranean-sunny days, followed by icy downdraughts from the Dolomites – forces the grapes to concentrate, squeezing everything they have to give. The yield? A meagre 25 hectolitres per hectare. Luxury in liquid form. harvest is followed by careful maceration, then gentle pressing at just 1.2 bar. The must matures in barriques for a whole year before being left to rest in the bottle for a further few months.

The vineyards for the 100% Pinot Noir Riserva are located in the Überetsch region between 350 and 450 metres above sea level and face south-west. The soil is a compact, dense moraine soil made up of sediments from the Ice Age, calcareous, loamy and rich in minerals. Bright ruby red in colour, with a bouquet of redcurrants, raspberries, strawberries and hints of sage. Taut and very polished on the palate, its spicy tannins flank its beautiful depth and very appealing length. SUPERIORE.DE

When Giulio Ferrari vinified his first bottles of spumante in Via Belentani in 1902, he dreamed of an Italian sparkling wine on a par with French wines. Today, over 120 years later, this dream has long since become a reality – and Ferrari Rosé is living proof of this. The Fratelli Lunelli have taken the founder's legacy to Alpine perfection. This elegant rosé is made from 60% Pinot Nero and 40% Chardonnay in the high altitudes of Trentino. The vineyards stretch across Val d'Adige, Val di Cembra and Valle dei Laghi, all with south-easterly to south-westerly exposures on the mountain slopes. Here, the grapes benefit from the perfect symbiosis between Alpine freshness and Mediterranean warmth. The Metodo Classico vinification strictly follows French models. After gentle pressing, the first fermentation takes place, followed by traditional bottle fermentation with the winery's own yeasts. The Spumante matures on the lees for at least 20 months – time, which gives the rosé its characteristic creaminess and complexity.

Lagrein and Gries belong together like Nebbiolo and Barolo. The Bolzano district of Gries is the ancestral home of this indigenous South Tyrolean grape variety – first mentioned in writing in 1379, since then hardly anywhere else as convincing as here. Rudi Kofler puts it in a nutshell: "The alluvial soils of Gries are ideal for Lagrein. Because the Gries terroir is unlike anything else in Terlan. No steep slopes, no porphyry rock – but flat, post-glacial alluvial soil in the sunny Bolzano valley basin, where the Adige, Eisack and Talfer rivers meet and summer temperatures of up to 40 degrees are not uncommon. Loamy-sandy soils, lime-free, brooding. A terroir that gives Lagrein warmth and ripeness without taking away its tension. Hand-picked, destemming, slow maceration in steel, malolactic fermentation – then 12 months of ageing: half in large wooden barrels and half in barriques, one third of which is new. Precision meets depth.

Stoan has a spicy and floral aroma of ginger, crushed apples, savoury herbs and wet slate. It feels soothingly silky yet upbeat, focusing on ripe orchard fruits, along with a subtle hint of candied citrus for contrast. The palate remains crisp and clean with nuances of grapefruit and lime that linger. Firm pressure on the final, savoury. SUPERIORE.DE

The Moscato Giallo is dry and matured for 5 months on the fine lees and has a golden yellow colour. It is an aromatic wine, with notes of citrus fruits, white peaches, lemon balm and elderberry, combined with a hint of nutmeg and sweet spices. The lively acidity and discreet mineral structure give this wine an excellent freshness and pleasant style. SUPERIORE.DE