Wines from South Tyrol and Trentino

Monogramma is an approach: we wait. Whilst standard Traminer is harvested at the usual stage of ripeness, Mario Pojer and Fiorentino Sandri leave their best plots on the vine for a further 10 to 12 days. What happens during this time is not overripeness – ; it is a concentration, a densification of the aromas, a slow transformation of fresh fruit into something more complex. Gewürztraminer is, in any case, one of the most expressive grape varieties in the world. Normally: rose, peach, lychee, elderflower – — explosive, direct, immediate. In the Spätlese selection from the plots in Faedo/Coveli (300 m) and Cembra (450 m), an additional dimension emerges: tropical fruit, spices, a deep, rich texture that the wine develops through the late harvest. The house method remains the same: washing the grapes, pressing in a controlled atmosphere without oxygen. What ends up in the glass is solely a reflection of the place and the time.

Pinzon. A vineyard site that has long been regarded by connoisseurs as synonymous with South Tyrolean Pinot Noir of the highest calibre. This small wine-growing village on the eastern side of the Adige Valley, first mentioned in records in 1230, lies amidst the vineyards that, along the Pinot Noir Trail, are counted amongst Italy’s finest Pinot Noir terroirs. Here, at an altitude of around 550 metres in the municipality of Montan, Peter Zemmer cultivates his vines on porphyry soils with deposits of dolomite carbonate rock – —a geological combination that lends the wine its characteristic minerality. The microclimate of the site is shaped by its elevation above the Adige floodplain and its north-westerly aspect, which grants the vineyards long hours of evening sunshine. The ‘Ora’, that famous valley wind which rises from Lake Garda through the Adige Valley, cools the vines in the afternoon and regulates humidity – ideal conditions for this demanding Burgundian variety.

The Pratzner family keeps a few hundred bottles of each good vintage, which are then matured in the cellar for a further 6 years. These refined wines are then sold in small quantities as "Private Reserves" to selected retailers and restaurants, demonstrating the impressive ageing potential of their wines, which are matured for 10 months on the fine lees. Medium-bodied light yellow colour. Complex nose of pome fruit and lychee, the further 6 years of bottle ageing have given the wine a wonderful fullness and depth. We are delighted with the freshness and vigour that this Riserva radiates today. The final has an animating minerality with a pleasant smoky component. SUPERIORE.DE

While Lagrein traditionally dominates rosé production in South Tyrol, Franz Haas goes his own way. As a Pinot Nero specialist who has vinified and meticulously documented 592 different Pinot Nero versions in over three decades, he devotes the same attention to his rosé. The vines for this wine grow on Guyot vines at extreme altitudes of between 700 and 750 metres – significantly higher than usual for rosé. Grapes of exceptional quality ripen on dolomite weathered rock, with a high planting density and selected clones. Only 5,000 bottles are produced annually. Vinification consistently follows the white wine method: after destemming, the grapes are pressed directly, without maceration. The must ferments at a controlled temperature in stainless steel, undergoes malolactic fermentation and matures for several months before being bottled. This purist approach preserves the freshness and elegance that can be expected from Pinot Nero at altitude.

Praesulis Sauvignon Blanc unfolds in the glass with hints of aromatic herbs and lemon zest, accompanied by gooseberries, grapefruit and elderberries. Soothingly smooth and with a pleasant inner sweetness, it blends candied lemon with tart melon and lively acidity to create a robust yet juicy style on the palate. It finishes with vibrant tension and good length, leaving behind concentrated citrus fruit and lovely floral notes. Wonderfully elegant and well-balanced. SUPERIORE.DE

One month separates the first harvest from the last: 18 September in Margreid, 18 October in the high altitudes of Teis and Sarns in the Eisack Valley. The fact that Alois Lageder harvests his Riesling over such a long period of time is methodical. The warm limestone slopes of Margreid at 230 metres ripen earlier and give the Surmont substance and fruit. The cool steep slopes in the Isarco Valley, on volcanic bedrock up to 900 metres, provide the opposite: freshness, tension and mineral depth. Both extremes need their own time. The name Surmont – "the mountain above" – is the programme. Riesling finds conditions at these altitudes that it rarely gets elsewhere: a long growing season, cool nights, slow ripening without stressful events. Temperature-controlled fermentation in steel, six months maturation on the fine lees.

The name Manna evokes biblical associations, but the true story is even more beautiful: Franz Haas dedicated this extraordinary wine to his wife Maria Luisa Manna in 1995 – a token of love in bottle form that unites the philosophy of the winery in a single cuvée. What began as an assemblage of Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc was expanded to include Kerner from 2013 onwards – five grape varieties, five personalities that merge into a harmonious symbiosis. The vineyards are located between 350 and 800 metres above sea level in a south-westerly direction on geologically highly diverse soils: dolomite, porphyry, sand and marl give each plot its own character. The grapes ripen at different times and are harvested and vinified separately – chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc ferment in barriques, while Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Kerner ferment in stainless steel tanks. After fermentation, the young wines are blended and left to rest on the fine lees for around ten months, followed by further months of bottle ageing. This patient approach results in a wine of exceptional complexity.

In Nals, there is a phenomenon that rarely occurs elsewhere with such intensity: the Venti di Caduta – the downdrafts that plunge down from the mountains and can lower the daytime temperature by up to 20 degrees. Hot days, freezing cold nights – all within a matter of hours. For the Sauvignon Blanc, this means maximum ripeness of the fruit during the day and maximum preservation of acidity and aromatics at night. A microclimate that keeps this grape variety on its toes. Added to this is a soil that is unrivalled in terms of depth and composition: a 150-metre-deep alluvial fan, built up over millennia by the Sirmian and Nals streams, consisting of 70 per cent limestone gravel and 30 per cent porphyry debris. Two geological worlds that lend the Sauvignon both mineral rigour and aromatic depth. Facing east-southeast, at an altitude of 330 to 400 metres, this is the heart of the Nals terroirs.

The grapes for this elegant Metodo Classico come from loose limestone soils with a clay content from the Überetsch and Unterland regions. The three grape varieties are vinified separately, gently pressed and fermented at a controlled temperature of 14°-16°C. The wine is matured in stainless steel on the lees of the first fermentation until spring. The wine is matured in stainless steel on the lees from the first fermentation until spring. Bright straw yellow in colour, fine and persistent perlage, fruity aroma with a subtle hint of yeast and flint. Fresh, dry and very persistent on the palate, with a pleasant aftertaste of dried fruit and a saline touch. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for this elegant Metodo Classico come from loose limestone soils with a clay content from the Überetsch and Unterland regions. The three grape varieties are vinified separately, gently pressed and fermented at a controlled temperature of 14°-16°C. The wine is matured in stainless steel on the lees of the first fermentation until spring. The wine is matured in stainless steel on the lees from the first fermentation until spring. Bright straw yellow in colour, fine and persistent perlage, fruity aroma with a subtle hint of yeast and flint. Fresh, dry and very persistent on the palate, with a pleasant aftertaste of dried fruit and a saline touch. SUPERIORE.DE

In the local dialect, ‘Giatl’ means ‘small plot of land’ – and this name is steeped in history. The ten-hectare single vineyard in the valley floor of Kurtinig a.d.W. is one of the most exceptional terroirs for Pinot Grigio in the South Tyrolean Unterland. On sandy alluvial soils with calcareous gravel, vines grafted onto low-vigor rootstocks thrive here under ideal conditions, trained using the Guyot system. The unique microclimate of this sun-drenched spot is shaped by two contrasting wind systems: the warm ‘Ora’ blows northwards from Lake Garda in the afternoons, tempering the daytime heat, whilst at night cool downdrafts from the Dolomites provide relief. These extreme temperature fluctuations allow for long, slow ripening phases whilst perfectly preserving acidity and concentrating the aromas. Following hand-harvesting and destemming, a short cold maceration takes place to emphasise the fruitiness. The gently pressed grapes are clarified through natural sedimentation before alcoholic fermentation takes place in small and large French oak barrels (12 months) and in stainless steel tanks (6 months). Yeast ageing lends the wine valuable complexity and depth, whilst further months of bottle ageing round off its profile.

A grape variety like a secret: Rosenmuskateller migrated from Sicily to the Alps in the middle of the 19th century and found its second home on the alluvial soils of the Anreiterhof farm in Moritzing near Bolzano. Today it is one of the rarest grape varieties in South Tyrol – and the Rosis from the Bolzano winery is one of its finest interpreters. After harvest, the select grapes are subjected to natural air-drying, which concentrates their flavours and intensifies their sweetness. Temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel and patient bottle ageing preserve the delicate fullness of flavour.

A Pinot Nero from Franz Haas is a textbook expression every year and a benchmark throughout South Tyrol, with bright aromas of blueberries, violets and lavender rising gracefully from the bouquet. This is pure cool climate in the glass. On the palate, it is taut and silky and always beautifully polished and streamlined in a positive sense. This is a beautiful, complex and exceptionally exciting Pinot Nero from a master hand. SUPERIORE.DE

The grapes for this exceptional dessert wine are harvested at the end of November at the earliest, when the night temperatures fall below zero degrees and a late harvest of the noble rotten fruit is possible in correspondingly high quality. Straw yellow in colour with golden reflections. Opulent bouquet of peach, melon, redcurrant and tropical fruit with the elegance that comes from the noble rot of the very late harvested grapes. The flavour is fresh, full-bodied, highly aromatic and with a well-balanced sweetness. An excellent meditation wine or also ideal with spicy blue cheese, foie gras terrine or dry desserts. SUPERIORE.DE

Terlan is a small village south of Bolzano – and one of Italy’s most exceptional white wine regions. The combination of porphyry rock, calcareous subsoil, marked temperature fluctuations between day and night, and the Alps, which shield the valley from cold Atlantic winds, creates a terroir that gives white wines a longevity unrivalled anywhere else in the world. Founded in 1893, the Cantina Terlan has brought this potential to life like no other in the region.

The porphyry-rich steep slopes on the Ritten above Bolzano offer first-class conditions for producing a Sauvignon Bianco with unique fruit, minerality, elegance and depth. Straw yellow in colour with greenish reflections. Precise fruity flavours of gooseberry, elderflower, herbs, yeast and a fine woody note. Harmonious flavour with very well-integrated acidity, an accentuated body and an elegant mineral note. Long and deep on the finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Furggl is a field name that sticks in the memory. In the municipality of Auer, in the heart of South Tyrol’s Unterland region, this single vineyard is situated on alluvial soils composed of limestone and porphyry gravel, interspersed with sand and loam. A terroir that offers the late-ripening Lagrein exactly what it needs: warmth, depth and the soil moisture that ensures a consistent supply of water even in dry years. The vines, grafted onto low-vigor rootstocks and trained using the Guyot system, yield concentrated harvests of just 45 hectolitres per hectare. Following the hand-harvest in early October, the destemmed grapes first undergo a one-day cold maceration before fermentation takes place at 28–30 °C over ten days. Regular pumping over and gentle submersion keep the must in contact with the skins – , allowing colour pigments and fruit aromas to permeate the heart of the wine. After two careful rackings, the long ageing process begins: 12 months in French barriques, followed by 6 months in stainless steel, then a further 6 months of bottle ageing. Only after a total of 24 months’ ageing does this wine reach the customer – ready to drink, yet with the potential to age for a decade or more.

All the vineyards of the Falkenstein winery face south. Except for one. The St. Ursula vineyard is exposed to the south-west, and this decision is no coincidence. Pinot Noir needs a different logic than Riesling or Pinot Blanc: a little less direct midday sun, a little more afternoon warmth, a slower, more even ripening. On dry glacial moraine soils of gneiss, slate, granite, mica and quartz, at altitudes between 600 and 900 metres, the basis for the estate's top selection grows here. The St. Ursula is the selection of the best grapes from this unique parcel – hand-picked, matured in barriques, the only Falkenstein wine not aged in acacia wood but in small wooden barrels. Aged in the bottle for at least 365 days before leaving the winery. The name bears – like so many vineyards in Alpine South Tyrol – the history of a chapel or patrocinium that has characterised this landscape for centuries.

The steep porphyry slopes at an altitude of up to 650 metres on the Ritten above Bolzano offer ideal conditions for vinifying this powerful yet elegant Chardonnay with outstanding balance, well-integrated acidity and excellent ageing potential. Straw yellow in colour with greenish inclusions. Pure exotic flavours of pineapple, mango and white peach on the nose, underpinned by a delicate vanilla note. Powerful on the palate, the well-integrated acidity keeps it fresh and mineral despite its power and complexity, right through to an almost infinitely long finish. A great Chardonnay from South Tyrol! SUPERIORE.DE

Fine traditional brut from the Lunelli family, who work tirelessly on the authenticity of their Trentino classics. A wide range of aromas and an elegant flavour with a good structure offer first-class enjoyment on many occasions. On the nose, crisp green apple, tangy lemon and a hint of toasted brioche. On the palate, citrus fruits harmonise with white peaches with a subtle hint of minerality. The bubbles are fine and persistent, the finish refreshing and clean. SUPERIORE.DE