Wine

While the Blanc des Rosis brings together four grape varieties, the Friulano speaks only for itself. That is intentional. Because Friulano – the historic grape variety that Mario Schiopetto was the first to bottle pure and unblended in 1965 – needs no company. It is Friuli. The vineyards of Capriva del Friuli lie on Eocene clay and marl: soils that impart minerality and a cool, herbaceous depth to the grapes. Harvest by hand in the second and third decade of August, fermentation in steel at a controlled temperature, eight months on the lees – no wood, no effort that would distract the wine from itself.

Castelnuovo Berardenga marks the southernmost tip of the Chianti Classico, where the gentle hills of the historic centre merge into the austere beauty of the Crete Senesi. Here, on south-facing slopes at an altitude of 280 metres, the Sangiovese finds the warmth that gives it fullness without losing its lively acidity. Poggio Bonelli presses its Chianti Classico as a genuine expression of this grape variety: 90 per cent Sangiovese, supplemented by a small proportion of other red varieties. After temperature-controlled fermentation and ten days of maceration, the wine matures for ten months in French oak barrels.

In 2010, Marco Cirese, grandson of Noelia Ricci, started a project within Tenuta Pandolfa: nine hectares of the best plots, a radical focus on Sangiovese, back to the origins. The label is adorned with a wasp – the insect that lives in the vineyard like no other. The vines are planted at an altitude of 250 to 300 metres, on ochre-coloured clay soils with limestone marl, in 2002. Spontaneous fermentation, 18 days of maceration, then six months in stainless steel – without clarification, without filtration. Purism as a principle.

The Bertolino family has been producing this Nebbiolo for over 50 years – and old adverts from the early years show what has never changed: deep ruby red, delicate violet perfume, a wine that was intended from the outset as a storage wine. Not as a substitute for Barolo, but as an independent statement about a grape variety that appears in many guises in Piedmont. The grapes come from Castellinaldo in the Roero – the area west of the Tanaro, which is known for its particularly elegant Nebbioli. Here, on sandier, calcareous soils, the Nebbiolo develops a finesse and accessibility that distinguishes it from the more structured Barolo style. Hand-picked in crates, last week of October. Maceration in steel at a controlled temperature. Then 18 months in 25-hectolitre oak barrels, followed by further bottle ageing before release.

On 12 May 1937, King George VI of England was crowned. At the coronation banquet that followed the historic ceremony, there was one wine on the table: Bertani Soave. Not champagne, not Bordeaux. Soave. From a house that, ever since 1857 – when Gaetano Bertani trained under Jules Guyot in Burgundy – had been committed to the belief that the wines of Verona need not shy away from comparison with the best in the world. The Original Vintage Edition pays homage to this heritage. Made according to the estate's traditional recipe, from vines on the western slope of the Soave hill north of the Castello, the historic heart of the Classico zone, where Garganega grows on volcanic-limestone soil and the air smells of old vineyards. 100% Garganega. Nine months in concrete tanks. Six months in bottle. The concrete preserves freshness and allows the terroir to express itself without overpowering it.

We are talking about the summit of the extinct volcano Monte Foscarino, 350 metres above sea level. Up here, where volcanic tuff forms the base and oak forests provide cool night breezes, one of Roberto's most precious treasures has been thriving since 1982. The Capitel Foscarino was already a legend when Roberto was still part of the Soave consortium – today it stands for pure typicality of the vineyard without regulatory DOC compromises. 90 per cent Garganega and ten per cent Chardonnay from horizontally trained vines that are rigorously thinned out in June so that only the most vigorous berries survive.

Mozart knew what he was doing. In the second act of Don Giovanni, his hero calls for wine – and it is the Marzemino that he desires: "Eccellente Marzemino!" It was to be his last indulgence before his just punishment. The variety, which is related to Refosco and Teroldego, has lost little of its seductive power since then. Maculan cultivates it in Fara Vicentino, on a vineyard called Cornorotto – volcanic tuff hills, mineral-rich soil. The grapes are lightly dried for a week before being placed in steel tanks – a quiet trick that brings concentration and depth without heaviness.

Where the first rays of sunlight wander over Gallura's granite hills and the ancient tomb of Coddu 'Ecchju has looked eastwards for thousands of years, the young vines for Capicheras Lianti grow. The name itself tells of this mystical connection – liànti means "Levant", the East, where light is born every day. Just as the Nuragic builders once orientated their sacred sites towards this heavenly gate, this wine also turns its face towards the rising sun. From the youngest vineyards of the estate, where five to ten-year-old Carignano and Syrah vines thrive on weathered granite soils, an authentic Sardinian red wine is produced in its most original form. The hand-picked grapes macerate for three weeks in stainless steel tanks before the wine then matures for around six months in steel and cement.

Nebbiolo is the king of Piedmont, and Neive is one of its finest terroirs. Anyone who produces Barbaresco here knows just what this grape variety is capable of. Fontanabianca's Langhe Nebbiolo is the gateway to this world: the same limestone-rich clay soils at 300 metres, the same climate, the same family – but younger vines, shorter ageing, and greater approachability. Vines aged 12 to 15 years, trained using the Guyot method, fermentation in stainless steel at a controlled temperature, traditional ageing with brief contact with wood. This is not a wine that demands patience – it is one that demonstrates what Nebbiolo from Neive has to offer even in its youth. Matteo Pola, Aldo's son, now bears the estate's oenological hallmark and has given the Langhe Nebbiolo a contemporary, elegant character.

"We want this land to say: Barbera. We've always thought that, ever since the first vineyards that grandfather Giuseppe left to his father Giacomo, where grapes were grown for La Monella. Then the ones between Rocchetta and Belveglio (the vineyards of Bricco dell'Uccellone), which mother Anna brought as a dowry, and the vineyards of Montebruna, which we bought and merged - and which we still look at with great pride." Familie Bologna

The Latin Merus stands for pure or genuine. All Merus wines have this claim and are characterised by varietal character and natural elegance. The grapes come from vineyards in the lowlands and are pressed in steel and concrete barrels. The result is wines that are open, fresh and accessible at an early stage. Bright golden yellow in colour. Distinctive bouquet of ripe grapes and candied fruit, accompanied by fine notes of honey, oriental spices, sage and rose petals. A full-bodied and harmonious wine with a respectable finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Here is a Vermentino that's perfect for both special occasions and everyday enjoyment. Is Argiolas is the melody of the Sardinian coast – a star white wine, elegant and complex. The grapes come from the sandy-limestone hills around Selegas (single vineyard), where they develop mineral depth thanks to the granite subsoil. Following cool fermentation, the wine matures on its fine lees in stainless steel – a philosophy of uncompromising clarity.

A wine that shows at first sip: Sardinia not only has sunshine, but also depth. Iselis is a tribute to the indigenous Monica grape variety from a carefully selected vineyard near Serdiana. The vines are rooted in calcareous clay soils, warm winds and Mediterranean sunshine. After controlled mash fermentation, the wine matures for around a year in barriques before being bottled, powerful and elegant at the same time.

Brachetto is almost exclusively sweet in Piedmont – as Brachetto d'Acqui, sparkling, aromatic, as a dessert or aperitif wine. Andrea Sottimano shows that this grape variety can become something completely different when fermented dry on a small vineyard near Treiso: Matè – 1.1 hectares, vines over 40 years old on limestone and clay, one of those quiet individual vineyards in the Langhe that are almost unknown but have a lot to say. 20 days of maceration with natural yeasts, malolactic fermentation, 8 months in steel. No fining, no filtration.

Three Dolcetto parcels in Neive and one wine: Cottà, Basarin and San Cristoforo consist of calcareous marl soils with sandy veins. The grapes are harvested selectively by hand; fermentation takes place spontaneously in stainless steel with a maceration period of around three weeks in order to gain flavour, grip and depth. The wine then rests exclusively in the tank on the fine lees until early bottling – without the use of wood, focussing entirely on precision and drinking flow.

Christian Bellei has dedicated his life to precision. For generations, his family in Bomporto has been producing excellent sparkling wines with the meticulous care of a watchmaker – everything controlled, everything intended, everything calculated. And then: OOPS. Mi è scappata la bollicina. The bubble that crept in uninvited – and then simply stayed. 100% Pinot Nero from the alluvial soils of the Secchia. What was intended to be a still red wine – —or so the story goes –, took on a life of its own in the cellar. The perlage was not corrected. It became the defining feature of the style.

Pinot Grigio has a difficult time. Too often softly rinsed, too often vinified for quantity – a name that promises more than it delivers. Things are different in Capriva del Friuli. Here the variety was once called "Ribolla di Capriva", here it is at home on Eocene marl and clay, here it is the last white vine to ripen – it is only harvested in the last decade of September, when the nights get cooler and the flavours settle. Emilio and Alessandro Rotolo vinify the Pinot Grigio with the same rigour as all the wines in the Pompiere line: soft pressing, fermentation in steel at low temperatures, short bottle ageing. No effort that goes beyond the fruit. The wine is allowed to show what the soil has to offer.

The three sisters from Fittà – Meri, Valentina and Alessandra Tessari – have turned the estate founded in 1982 by their parents, Giovanni and Rosetta, into one of the most respected names in Soave Classico. "Suavia" is the Germanic origin of "Soave" – the name says it all. Whilst their neighbours in the lowlands have long since succumbed to industrial pressures, the sisters cultivate exclusively the indigenous grape varieties Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave across twelve hectares at an altitude of 300 metres. Their vineyards lie on the volcanic hills of Fittà, on copper-red, black and grey soils rich in basalt and other volcanic rock. Here, where 50-year-old vines thrive on mineral-rich subsoil, wines of unmistakable expressiveness are produced.

Vino Nobile is Montepulciano's answer to Tuscany's big question: What can Sangiovese do if you give it time? At Gracciano, the answer has been the same since the 19th century – and it has not changed. The Tenuta della Seta Ferrari Corbelli Greco family is one of the oldest addresses in the appellation, its vineyards on the Rovisci, Maramai and Toraia crus lie at 300 to 350 metres in south to south-easterly exposure, on clay soils that allow the Prugnolo Gentile to ripen slowly and fully, which is exactly what it needs. 90 per cent Prugnolo Gentile, ten per cent Merlot – a classic Gracciano assemblage. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts, 20 to 25 days of maceration in steel, then 18 months of ageing: 40 per cent in French tonneaux of 3.5 and 5 hectolitres, 60 per cent in large oak barrels from France and Slavonia.

Pale straw yellow with a delicate greenish tinge. Clear and inviting on the nose: green apple, pineapple and citrus, underpinned by white flowers and a fine hint of fresh bread crust. Dry, straightforward and juicy on the palate, with lively, well-integrated acidity, a delicate mellowness and cool, mineral tension. The finish is fresh and lingering, with an elegant, slightly salty flavour. A modern, no-frills Langhe Chardonnay that impresses with its clarity, drinking flow and fine depth. SUPERIORE.DE

Gewürztraminer is the local variety of the South Tyrolean lowlands – and Kurtatsch is its home. Here, between Bolzano and Lake Garda, on the South Tyrolean Wine Route, the grape variety has found the Mediterranean warmth and Alpine freshness that make its distinctive bouquet possible in the first place. Tiefenbrunner has been cultivating it since 1968 – and Merus Gewürztraminer is its most accessible expression. Three sites give this wine its multi-layered character: Penon, Hofstatt and Rain at 400 to 650 metres with calcareous dolomite soils and eastern exposure – for freshness and minerality. Entiklar and the Margreider Leiten at 220 to 350 metres, on limestone gravel soils from moraine deposits – for structure and depth. Brenntal and Frauenriegel at 220 to 350 metres, on red, sandy loam soil – for warmth and fullness. Vinified in concrete vats, 5.0 g/l residual sugar – subtle, never sweet.

The grapes for Chiarlo's classic come from various vineyards in southern Asti, in particular from the Podere La Court and Montemareto vineyards in Castelnuovo Calcea, La Serra in Montaldo Scarampi and Costa delle Monache in Agliano. Le Orme is the prototype of a young, fresh red with a clean fruit flavour of plum and blackberry. On the palate, the wine is flavoured with high-toned red cherries and raspberries, framed by elegant and fine tannins with perfect acidity on the finish. A Barbera full of character that offers great drinking pleasure. SUPERIORE.DE