Wine

Anyone who understands Ribolla Gialla understands Friuli. The variety is old, unique and uncompromising – it gives the best of itself on poor soils and does not forgive any laziness in the cellar. It is no coincidence that the small vineyard around the archbishop's castle in Capriva del Friuli is still home to Ribolla Gialla today: as a silent commitment to the regional identity of the house. The soils of the Schiopetto vineyards – flysch, called "Ponca" in Friulian, from marine sediments of Eocene origin – are the ideal terrain: poor, stony, draining. The vine has to fight, and this fight shapes the character. Harvest at the end of September, fermentation in steel at a controlled temperature, short ageing in steel – the technique takes a back seat, the fruit takes centre stage.

South Tyrol's autochthonous king grape variety finds its ancestral terroir on the permeable gravel and crushed stone soils of the Bolzano valley floor at 250 metres. Here, where "Lagrinum" was first mentioned in a document as early as 1379, Lagrein thrives in its heartland – the warm, sun-drenched vineyards around Gries with their extreme day-night temperature fluctuations. The traditional mash fermentation in stainless steel with controlled fermentation and gentle mash movement, followed by malolactic fermentation and six months of ageing in large oak barrels, gives Rubeno its characteristic structure and elegance.

Gavi del Comune di Gavi is the strictest level of the Gavi appellation – only grapes from the commune of Gavi itself qualify. 100% Cortese, 15 days fermentation at 18 °C, no wood. What is created in the vineyard should arrive in the glass. A beautiful white wine with fish, shellfish and everything the sea has to offer. Pale straw yellow with a green tinge – the typical colour of Cortese. Bouquet of flowers, citrus, fresh fruit – direct and clear. Dry and harmonious on the palate, with lively acidity and a mineral freshness that defines the wine. A Cortese of great typicity and personality – quiet, but convincing. SUPERIORE.DE

Nebbiolo is the king of Piedmont and Neive is one of its finest addresses. Those who produce Barbaresco here know what this grape variety is capable of. The Langhe Nebbiolo from Fontanabianca is the entry into this world: the same calcareous clay soils at 300 metres, the same climate, the same family – but younger vines, shorter maturation, greater accessibility. Vines 12 to 15 years old, Guyot training, fermentation in steel at a controlled temperature, traditional ageing with brief contact with wood. Not a wine that requires patience – one that shows what Nebbiolo from Neive has to say even in its young form. Matteo Pola, Aldo's son, now bears the oenological signature of the house and has given the Langhe Nebbiolo a contemporary, elegant character.

While the Blanc des Rosis brings together four grape varieties, the Friulano speaks only for itself. That is intentional. Because Friulano – the historic grape variety that Mario Schiopetto was the first to bottle pure and unblended in 1965 – needs no company. It is Friuli. The vineyards of Capriva del Friuli lie on Eocene clay and marl: soils that impart minerality and a cool, herbaceous depth to the grapes. Harvest by hand in the second and third decade of August, fermentation in steel at a controlled temperature, eight months on the lees – no wood, no effort that would distract the wine from itself.

In 2010, Marco Cirese, grandson of Noelia Ricci, started a project within Tenuta Pandolfa: nine hectares of the best plots, a radical focus on Sangiovese, back to the origins. The label is adorned with a wasp – the insect that lives in the vineyard like no other. The vines are planted at an altitude of 250 to 300 metres, on ochre-coloured clay soils with limestone marl, in 2002. Spontaneous fermentation, 18 days of maceration, then six months in stainless steel – without clarification, without filtration. Purism as a principle.

Top Italian rosé made from selected Montepulciano grapes from 45-year-old vines: Spelt Cerasuolo is a rosé with origin and character – obtained from organically grown Montepulciano in medium-high vineyards near Spoltore. The 2024 vintage was characterised by balanced ripeness and cool nights, which gives the wine freshness and clarity. After a short maceration period, the wine is matured in stainless steel tanks.

The Bertolino family has been producing this Nebbiolo for over 50 years – and old adverts from the early years show what has never changed: deep ruby red, delicate violet perfume, a wine that was intended from the outset as a storage wine. Not as a substitute for Barolo, but as an independent statement about a grape variety that appears in many guises in Piedmont. The grapes come from Castellinaldo in the Roero – the area west of the Tanaro, which is known for its particularly elegant Nebbioli. Here, on sandier, calcareous soils, the Nebbiolo develops a finesse and accessibility that distinguishes it from the more structured Barolo style. Hand-picked in crates, last week of October. Maceration in steel at a controlled temperature. Then 18 months in 25-hectolitre oak barrels, followed by further bottle ageing before release.

Brachetto is almost exclusively sweet in Piedmont – as Brachetto d'Acqui, sparkling, aromatic, as a dessert or aperitif wine. Andrea Sottimano shows that this grape variety can become something completely different when fermented dry on a small vineyard near Treiso: Matè – 1.1 hectares, vines over 40 years old on limestone and clay, one of those quiet individual vineyards in the Langhe that are almost unknown but have a lot to say. 20 days of maceration with natural yeasts, malolactic fermentation, 8 months in steel. No fining, no filtration.

Three Dolcetto parcels in Neive and one wine: Cottà, Basarin and San Cristoforo consist of calcareous marl soils with sandy veins. The grapes are harvested selectively by hand; fermentation takes place spontaneously in stainless steel with a maceration period of around three weeks in order to gain flavour, grip and depth. The wine then rests exclusively in the tank on the fine lees until early bottling – without the use of wood, focussing entirely on precision and drinking flow.

We are talking about the summit of the extinct volcano Monte Foscarino, 350 metres above sea level. Up here, where volcanic tuff forms the base and oak forests provide cool night breezes, one of Roberto's most precious treasures has been thriving since 1982. The Capitel Foscarino was already a legend when Roberto was still part of the Soave consortium – today it stands for pure typicality of the vineyard without regulatory DOC compromises. 90 per cent Garganega and ten per cent Chardonnay from horizontally trained vines that are rigorously thinned out in June so that only the most vigorous berries survive.

Mozart knew what he was doing. In the second act of Don Giovanni, his hero calls for wine – and it is the Marzemino that he desires: "Eccellente Marzemino!" It was to be his last indulgence before his just punishment. The variety, which is related to Refosco and Teroldego, has lost little of its seductive power since then. Maculan cultivates it in Fara Vicentino, on a vineyard called Cornorotto – volcanic tuff hills, mineral-rich soil. The grapes are lightly dried for a week before being placed in steel tanks – a quiet trick that brings concentration and depth without heaviness.

Where the first rays of sunlight wander over Gallura's granite hills and the ancient tomb of Coddu 'Ecchju has looked eastwards for thousands of years, the young vines for Capicheras Lianti grow. The name itself tells of this mystical connection – liànti means "Levant", the East, where light is born every day. Just as the Nuragic builders once orientated their sacred sites towards this heavenly gate, this wine also turns its face towards the rising sun. From the youngest vineyards of the estate, where five to ten-year-old Carignano and Syrah vines thrive on weathered granite soils, an authentic Sardinian red wine is produced in its most original form. The hand-picked grapes macerate for three weeks in stainless steel tanks before the wine then matures for around six months in steel and cement.

The three sisters from Fittà: Meri, Valentina and Alessandra Tessari have turned the winery founded by their parents Giovanni and Rosetta in 1982 into one of the most respected addresses in Soave Classico. Suavia is the Germanic origin of "Soave" – the name says it all. While their neighbours from the flatlands have long since bowed to industrial pressure, the sisters cultivate exclusively the autochthonous Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave grape varieties on twelve hectares at an altitude of 300 metres. Their vineyards are located on the volcanic hills of Fittà, on copper-red, black and grey soils full of basalt and other volcanic rock. Here, where 50-year-old vines thrive on mineral-rich subsoil, wines of unmistakable expressiveness are produced.

Vino Nobile is Montepulciano's answer to Tuscany's big question: What can Sangiovese do if you give it time? At Gracciano, the answer has been the same since the 19th century – and it has not changed. The Tenuta della Seta Ferrari Corbelli Greco family is one of the oldest addresses in the appellation, its vineyards on the Rovisci, Maramai and Toraia crus lie at 300 to 350 metres in south to south-easterly exposure, on clay soils that allow the Prugnolo Gentile to ripen slowly and fully, which is exactly what it needs. 90 per cent Prugnolo Gentile, ten per cent Merlot – a classic Gracciano assemblage. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts, 20 to 25 days of maceration in steel, then 18 months of ageing: 40 per cent in French tonneaux of 3.5 and 5 hectolitres, 60 per cent in large oak barrels from France and Slavonia.

"We want this land to say: Barbera. We've always thought that, ever since the first vineyards that grandfather Giuseppe left to his father Giacomo, where grapes were grown for La Monella. Then the ones between Rocchetta and Belveglio (the vineyards of Bricco dell'Uccellone), which mother Anna brought as a dowry, and the vineyards of Montebruna, which we bought and merged - and which we still look at with great pride." Familie Bologna

The Latin Merus stands for pure or genuine. All Merus wines have this claim and are characterised by varietal character and natural elegance. The grapes come from vineyards in the lowlands and are pressed in steel and concrete barrels. The result is wines that are open, fresh and accessible at an early stage. Bright golden yellow in colour. Distinctive bouquet of ripe grapes and candied fruit, accompanied by fine notes of honey, oriental spices, sage and rose petals. A full-bodied and harmonious wine with a respectable finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Christian Bellei has dedicated his life to precision. For generations, the family in Bomporto has been producing excellent sparkling wines with the meticulousness of a watchmaker – everything controlled, everything deliberate, everything calculated. And then: OOPS. Mi è scappata la bollicina. The bubble that crept in uninvited – and then just stayed. 100% Pinot Nero from the alluvial soils of Secchia. What was meant to be a still red wine – or at least that's the story –developed a life of its own in the cellar. The perlage was not corrected. It became a style-forming programme.

Pinot Grigio has a difficult time. Too often softly rinsed, too often vinified for quantity – a name that promises more than it delivers. Things are different in Capriva del Friuli. Here the variety was once called "Ribolla di Capriva", here it is at home on Eocene marl and clay, here it is the last white vine to ripen – it is only harvested in the last decade of September, when the nights get cooler and the flavours settle. Emilio and Alessandro Rotolo vinify the Pinot Grigio with the same rigour as all the wines in the Pompiere line: soft pressing, fermentation in steel at low temperatures, short bottle ageing. No effort that goes beyond the fruit. The wine is allowed to show what the soil has to offer.