wine classics

The Lilium Soldera blooms in the botanical garden of Case Basse. A variety that was named after its founder because when it first bloomed, the grower thought of the flavour of a wine that had given him an unforgettable moment. No coincidence: Gianfranco Soldera was never just a winegrower. He was a botanist, a naturalist, a visionary – one who believed that wine in its purest form is a reflection of the entire biodiversity of a place. The bees, the flowers, the insects, the soil: All part of a single system that ultimately culminates in a bottle.

Cerretalto wins in the exceptional 2016 vintage with beautiful, natural complexity and fine oak tones surrounded by cinnamon, clove, chocolate and exotic spices. On the palate, a dark, dense, ripe fruit and firm tannins. Incredibly long and deep with amazingly fresh acidity and fine salinity. For us, the perfect Riserva of this great vintage and made for decades! SUPERIORE.DE

In 1982, Bruno Giacosa bought the Falletto vineyard in Serralunga d'Alba. It was the first and most important investment of his life – and it came as no surprise to those who knew him. Since the 1960s, he had been vinifying bought-in grapes from this south-eastern corner of the Barolo area and making wines that are still among the reference points of the appellation today. When the farmers began to bottle their own wines, there was only one answer for Giacosa: to buy what he could no longer rent.

There are wines that define regions. Gaja's Barbaresco is one of them. It has been produced since 1859, over five generations, and in all these decades it has remained what it always was: the calling card, the brand ambassador, the essence of what Barbaresco means. While the single-vineyard wines – sorì San Lorenzo, Sorì Tildìn, Costa Russi – show virtuosity, it is this classic Barbaresco that captures the soul of the terroir. It is the sum of fourteen vineyards spread across the municipalities of Barbaresco and Treiso, each parcel a mosaic stone in the big picture.

Cerretalto 2018 is an expressive, exuberant and impressive wine that opens with a dark ruby red colour and a rich texture. The bouquet is endlessly intense, closely followed by finely tuned aromas of black cherries, spices, grilled herbs, cloves, tobacco, damp earth and white truffle. Over time, elegant mineral tones unfold, and later these flavours transition into cola, liquorice and tar. The mouthfeel is silky and supple, and there is enough power to move the wine seamlessly across the palate. Cerretalto continues to develop endlessly over 24 hours in the glass. Clear case: this is a bottle for the back of your cellar. SUPERIORE.DE

"Sassicaia really was our house wine back then," says Priscilla Incisa della Rocchetta, daughter of the president of San Guido, Marquis Nicolò Incisa della Rocchetta. "It was more of a wine experiment that was only tested within the family and among friends, until we went on the market for the first time with the 1968 vintage. Today, this wine is all about elegance and balance. We like this style, which is not so much about the body. Sassicaia is a good representative of what we want to convey as a style."

The single vineyard Falletto in Serralunga d'Alba is one of the centrepieces of the Barolo region. On steep, south-facing slopes, whose marl and sandstone soils store heat and contribute minerality, Nebbiolo matures here into wines of great structure and depth. The 2021 vintage is considered one of the best of the last decade: a stable summer with cool nights and sunny days allowed for long, even ripening and produced grapes of rare balance.

In 1944, Mario Incisa della Rocchetta planted the first Cabernet Sauvignon vines in the Maremma on a one-hectare plot at the highest point of the estate in Castiglioncello di Bolgheri. It was a private experiment intended for family and friends. Until 1967, Sassicaia was enjoyed at the Incisa family's dining table. Then, in 1968, the first vintage was released – in 1971 as a "Vino da Tavola". The rest is history. And not just the history of the Tenuta, but the history of Italian wine as a whole. At a blind tasting in London in 1978 – at which 33 Cabernet wines from around the world were compared – the 1972 Sassicaia emerged as the winner. And Luigi Veronelli was the first to recognise the greatness of this wine. In 1994, Bolgheri was granted DOC status for red wines. And in 2013, the Bolgheri Sassicaia DOC was established: the only Denominazione d'Origine in Italy that is exclusively and irrevocably reserved for a single estate.

For Biondi Santis Riserva, the fruits of the oldest vines of Il Greppo (30 years and older) are used, the wine matures for three years in traditional oak barrels. On the nose, initially fine aromas of wild berries, blue flowers, eucalyptus and lightly grilled smoke. The intensity increases in small steps. With time, the wine is magnificent and focused, with a very direct and impressive presentation of its aromas. The wine leaves a lasting impression in the mouth, thanks to the textural tautness of its tannins and the refreshing crispness of the acidity, finally showing more power, volume and persistence than expected on the long final. Subtle and big! SUPERIORE.DE

After many years of identifying the best Merlot, Cabernet and Petit Verdot parcels within the boundaries of their Bolgheri estate with the support of the famous oenologist Michel Rolland, the Antinori family discovered in the early 2000s that in the midst of this microclimate and terroir there was an even more special micro-vineyard whose results once again surpassed those of the larger area. It was immediately clear to all involved that this unique character had to be vinified and highlighted separately - this was the birth of today's cult wine Lodovico.

There are a handful of wines in Italy that make us nervous every year before the first tasting because the expectations are huge. Cerretalto is undoubtedly one of them. What's more, as in this case from an exceptional year like 2019, it didn't disappoint our expectations - how could it have been otherwise?

An absolute rarity is Vietti's 6-bottle wooden box with one bottle each of the great Barolo Cru of the top vintage 2018 - an almost magical collection of strictly limited pearls.

There are wines that have changed the history of their country. Not by chance, nor because of a passing trend – but through a single, well-founded act of provocation. In 1971, Piero Antinori commissioned one of the most prominent Italian graphic designers of his time to design the label for his new wine: Silvio Coppola, renowned for book covers and designer furniture, for his austerity and minimalist style. The label was minimalist – but the wine behind it was a revolution. No Trebbiano, no Malvasia. No white grapes in the red wine, as the Chianti regulations had stipulated since Ricasoli's time. Instead: Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc. Barrique instead of large casks. A wine that consequently automatically fell outside the DOC classification – and was launched on the market as a simple "Vino da Tavola". Piero Antinori signed the label with his father Niccolò's name: a gesture of gratitude for the trust that had allowed him the boldness to do so in the first place.

"Transparent ruby red with a crimson rim. Spicy notes of cloves, allspice, mace and pepper mingle with cherries, laurel and raspberry jelly, currant leaves and floral top notes of orange blossom complete the delight. On the palate, Crichët Pajé presents itself with great calm in a steady flow. Nothing is cheeky or exuberant here, but shines with distinguished elegance - an equilibrium in perfect balance. The aromatically exuberant nose is disciplined on the palate by the long, calm flow of the focussed, cool acidity, on whose shores fully ripe and fine-grained tannins entwine. Silky with an almost aristocratic nobility, its enormous complexity is revealed in the second sip, when the flavours begin to unfold in the epic finish like a massive Win-Zip file. A wine for today, for tomorrow and for many, many years to come. Undisputed world class." Sebastian Bordthäuser (Sommelier und Wein-Journalist)

Within Falletto there is a parcel of land that Bruno Giacosa thought of separately early on. Vigna Le Rocche – officially recognised as an independent site within the MGA Falletto, on the upper part of the amphitheatre, exposed south to south-west, with the oldest vines of the entire estate. 47-year-old vines, deeply rooted in the calcareous clay of Serralunga, at more than 400 metres. Less yield, more concentrated grapes, an aroma that is similar to that of the Falletto – and yet surpasses it.

Since 1888, when Ferruccio Biondi Santi bottled the very first bottle of "Brunello di Montalcino", this name has been inextricably linked with the birth of a legend. The Riserva – produced only 43 times in 137 years – embodies not just a wine, but a philosophy: the conviction that Sangiovese Grosso, in the hands of patience, precision and uncompromising tradition, can become one of the world's longest-lived growths. The 2018 vintage marks a special moment: it is the first Riserva under the new era, led by CEO Giampiero Bertolini and Technical Director Federico Radi, who have been continuing the legacy with the credo "evolution, not revolution" since 2017.

Barbaresco Sorì Tildìn is a fabulous, incredibly complete wine that rises from the glass with an explosive structure and vertical lift. The tannins are very present, but also beautifully matched by the aromatic intensity and overall drive of the wine. Dark macerated cherry, spice, leather, liquorice, plum and mocha add darker nuances. All elements are impeccably balanced. It is quite simply a majestic wine of true greatness and absolute class, but it is not obvious. The true essence of Nebbiolo! SUPERIORE.DE

Deep dark ruby violet. On the nose, cassis, blackcurrant and a powerful herbal spiciness with a good dose of pipe tobacco, tar and crushed boulders. On the palate, dark berries, chocolate and a cornucopia of herbs define the full body. This wine monument has precisely integrated tannins, an enormous silkiness and a seemingly endless finish. SUPERIORE.DE

Siepi has always been more than just a vineyard – it was a vision waiting to become reality. Owned by the Mazzei family since 1435, this mystical place lies amidst dense oak forests near Castellina in Chianti: ten hectares of pure magic on Alberese soils, which even the ancient Romans knew how to appreciate. Paradoxically, the story of Siepi 2023 begins with one of the most challenging vintages of recent times. A mild winter with scant rainfall, followed by a rainy spring that pushed the Mazzei winemakers to their limits. And yet, or perhaps precisely because of this, a wine emerged that impressively embodies the estate's philosophy: "Great vineyards shine in difficult vintages."

Of all his wines, the flagship Tenuta di Trinoro offers the deepest insight into Andrea Franchetti's viticulture. Andrea changes the proprietary blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot from limestone and clay soils every year depending on the quality and quantity of the harvest. The grapes are always the best of the vintage. Franchetti's own style is recognisable in each of his wines and with each vintage. The 2020 vintage was the first to be given an additional year of bottle ageing before being released for sale.

Of all its wines, the flagship Tenuta di Trinoro offers the deepest insight into the Franchetti family's viticulture. The proprietary blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot from limestone and clay soils is adjusted each year depending on the quality and quantity of the harvest. The grapes are always the best of the vintage and come from the very best plots. The unique style of this Tuscan wine icon is recognisable with every vintage.

The "heart" of Trinoro – the wine that most perfectly embodied Andrea Franchetti's vision. No fixed recipe, no predetermined formula, just the essence of the vintage: the best plots, the ripest grapes, the most expressive terroir. A cuvée that reinvents itself year after year, always dominated by Cabernet Franc and Merlot, complemented by Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. The 2022 vintage was characterised by drought and heat, but meticulous foliage work and radical thinning preserved the balance.

In 51 years of Il Marroneto, it has only happened three times. 2004, 2013 and now again with the 2020 vintage: a single barrel – botte number 18 – refused to follow the usual rhythm and demanded more time, more attention, more of everything. Alessandro Mori calls it "a monster" – not in the sense of brutality, but of wilfulness. A wine that refused to submit. "Fermentation with wild yeasts, without temperature control, was exceptionally slow and gradual." The wine matured for a total of 58 months in Botte no. 18. 16 months more than the regular Madonna delle Grazie. "Wine is not perfect," says Alessandro. "It becomes perfect with time. That's how it finds its true balance."

Deep, dark ruby red colour. Floral nose with lots of red, warm fruit and delicate herbal notes. Smooth and elegant on the palate with wonderful depth and complexity with notes of black cherry, herbs, violets, plums and a hint of tar and leather. Saffredi literally sneaks up on you until it fades into a very long and harmonious finish with an impressive presence and finesse. One of Italy's great wines, full of elegance! SUPERIORE.DE